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  1. #41
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by danner View Post
    Yes, the rear track is slightly narrower than the front track by about 1/4". The front is ~10-1/2" wide from outside of the front wheels and ~10-1/4" for the rear wheels.

    Did that answer your question?
    Yep, thank you! Thatís very close and now I know what I am doing this week.

  2. #42
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Yep, thank you! That’s very close and now I know what I am doing this week.
    Excellent. Happy to assist.

  3. #43
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    so with the very narrow bandit arms in the back, and I noticed that the bandit front arms are not that much shorter than a Rustler front arm. In your set up, are the rear tires narrower than the front? I think the arms were originally designed with the extremely narrow Bandit front wheels in mind.

    I have an FLM Chassis Bandit built with MIP bandit size X duty rear CVDs but was having trouble visualizeing suitable front tires if I used GRP tires on the rear for speed runs.
    I think the front and rear track are close enough that it doesn't look funny to me. The shot from the rear makes the back look wider.


  4. #44
    RC Racer
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    Well, the rain stopped for a few hours so I got a quick 2s run in. Since I lost my RPM pickup I replaced it with the Traxxas 2.0 telemetry expander w/GPS. My new best 2s speed is 52mph. Pretty cool. That's the fastest 2s pass I've made. 76/38. And the best part is it doesn't get hot nearly as quickly with the aluminum motor mount acting as a heat sink. Will be interesting to see how well it controls temps with 3s.

    Last edited by danner; 05-20-2019 at 11:55 AM.

  5. #45
    RC Racer
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    It drives straight, but the handling is still way too twitchy. I think I'm going to lengthen the front control arms and raise the rear control arm mount point. That should slow the reaction to chassis/steering input from the reading I've done. If that is incorrect info please feel free to correct me.

  6. #46
    RC Racer
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    Raised the inner rear control arm to the top hole. Tried to move the inner front control arm father inward, but the eyelet binds against the aluminum shock tower. Do I need thinner eyelets or a larger standoff and longer bolts?

    TIA

  7. #47
    RC Racer
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    May 2019
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    I need to get that expander for the new drag/speed build build I am starting on. I like the app so far and have it on 2 of my 3 vehicles, and the 3rd will get it once rebuilt. So far I haven't done much beyond adjust braking for the vehicles depending on the surface and what I am doing.

  8. #48
    RC Racer
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    I like the app & use the sensors just about every time. Keep an eye on my battery voltage and motor temperature. Works great.

  9. #49
    RC Racer
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    Alright, it seems that moving the inner front control arms inward and the inner rear control arms up one hole reduced the twitchy handling. I'm just about satisfied with the handling that I'll give 70mph a shot with the 3s batt the next time out.

    In case any were wondering why I haven't just thrown the 3s in and got the 70mph thing done with, it's because I've spent a lot of time and $$ in this car and I have no desire for the thing to go flying out of control, straight into a mailbox post at 70mph, because the handling is sketchy. That's about sorted out to my satisfaction.

    So while testing the new suspension settings today I improved my 2s top speed with 76/38 to 53mph. That matches the gear ratio formula thingy I've been working with, 52.97mph is what the formula says for GRP's, a 2s lipo, & 76/38 gears, so I am very pleased with the outcome of the recent "improvements" I've made. I wasn't sure if it was going to work, happy it seems to be working to plan.



    Screenshot.



    Snapped a pic right after the 53mph run.

    Last edited by danner; 05-21-2019 at 07:47 PM.

  10. #50
    RC Racer
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    That looks mean.

    I had a bandit in my cart earlier tonight but I am thinking about converting my first rc (slash 4x4 ultimate) to a drag car. I have tons of parts already for a front dif and rear bent axle rebuild/upgrade, I just need new shocks and bits to lower it for on road instead of off. And the shocks off it should fit on the rustler 2wd vxl that had it's strc alum rear shock tower vibrate the loctite loose today.

  11. #51
    RC Racer
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    Thanks, I like it a lot.

    A friend of mine had a Bandit years ago, pretty much why I got mine, and the speed run videos I saw on youtube. I literally knew nothing about RC cars when I got mine, & am still a noob.

    I think my right rear shock got messed up because the half-shaft was wobbling really bad, the u-joints moved around quite a bit.

    To make the loctite work better I would clean the threads very well, both the shock tower hole and the shock bolt, and let the loctite set up on the bolt for a few minutes before installing it. Then after screwing the fastener in to the shock tower, don't use it right away, allow it to set up overnight, & don't use too much, it takes longer to "dry." That should help it hold up better under vibration. I personally wouldn't use anything stronger than blue on such small fasteners.

  12. #52
    RC Racer
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    thx, I do try and wait at least 24hrs but I obv could do a way better job cleaning the threads. Time for some soft wire brushes I think. I am going to just throw the stock one back on the rear tower tomorrow after I am done working for the day. I was looking at the integy alum rear tower and I think I like their design better but not sure if I want to throw good money after bad.

  13. #53
    RC Racer
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    Finally got my 70mph in front of my house with the smaller 3s 4500mAh battery. The 3s 5400mAh battery is more violent & harder to control than the 3s 4500. And since it has been raining and I didn't want to crash into another puddle and get water in my other set of tires, so I played with the smaller 3s to see what it could do & it did it.

    Think I'm going to need more room.




  14. #54
    RC Racer
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    This place is a great resource. I spent a lot of time searching and learned lots from previous threads. So thanks to everyone who posts and contributes, and everyone else too.

  15. #55
    RC Racer
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    I guess I'm supposed to list my mods? Not much to list, but I'll give it a go.

    Previously mods were just:
    Traxxas aluminum front carriers
    Traxxas aluminum steering rack
    Traxxas 17mm hex to pin drive adapters
    Traxxas ESC fan
    various 48P RRP pinion gears (w/76T Traxxas spur)
    RPM bumper
    GRP's
    RE glitch buster
    lowered shocks
    battery expansion kit made with plastic spacers used to lower shocks


    Recently added:
    Aluminum STRC front and rear shock towers
    STRC captured hinge pin kit
    Hot Racing composite trans
    FLM diff 50K
    RRP hardened steel idler
    RRP 48P 38T pinion (w/Traxxas 76T spur)
    GRP S7 slicks
    RPM front bumper w/Traxxas 4-Tec foam bumper glued to the bottom of the RPM bumper with 3m adhesive

    Not installed but soon:
    Kimbrough 32P 44T spur
    Traxxas 32P 22T pinion


    Just today. Installed then immediately removed and returned Animmos 20kg servo. Refused to return to zero. Stock servo is too weak to turn the GRP's.

    Savox SC-1258TG ordered to replace it.
    Hot racing rack ordered to replace the Traxxas aluminum rack. Worn, too much play.

    Think that about covers it.

    Oh. Batteries are SMC 2s 7400mAh, SMC 3s 4500mAh, SMC 3s 5400mAh.
    Last edited by danner; 05-28-2019 at 04:59 PM.

  16. #56
    RC Enthusiast
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    Nice build looks great looking to have a speed build of my own good luck on hitting 70

  17. #57
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkbait View Post
    Nice build looks great looking to have a speed build of my own good luck on hitting 70
    Thanks! Looking forward to seeing your speed build!

    70 has been achieved. Looking for more, if it ever stops raining, and my parts ever get here.

    The Kimbrough 44T spur arrived and the Traxxas slipper clutch wont fit. I'm finding out that as one approaches 2:1 the 32P gears become difficult to locate. Will be sticking with the 48P gears for now, but they already started munching on little rocks. Might have to order some mod1 gears to get the ratio I want.

  18. #58
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by danner View Post
    Thanks! Looking forward to seeing your speed build!

    70 has been achieved. Looking for more, if it ever stops raining, and my parts ever get here.

    The Kimbrough 44T spur arrived and the Traxxas slipper clutch wont fit. I'm finding out that as one approaches 2:1 the 32P gears become difficult to locate. Will be sticking with the 48P gears for now, but they already started munching on little rocks. Might have to order some mod1 gears to get the ratio I want.
    WHat part number is the Kimbrough spur gear?

    There is an eBay seller king-hobby that sells a 47t 32p spur and I use it with no problem with the rustler slipper clutch. Looking at my purchases thatís the smallest 32p spur I have but they also sell a 44t version labeled for traxxas. Might need double check with the seller of fit but might be one way to look.

  19. #59
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    It's a Kimbrough 115. That's the smallest 32P spur I could find.

  20. #60
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    That Savox servo is something else. Had to turn the throw way down. It's almost too fast, definitely going to have to get used to it. No problem turning the 1:8 GRPs, that's for sure!

    No brownouts, at least nothing out of the norm, on a 2s 53mph run in front of the house or when going slow with fully locked steering in either direction, so that's good.

  21. #61
    RC Racer
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    I have no issue with the 1258TG without running a glitch buster on any of my cars with VXL-3s either.

  22. #62
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    I have no issue with the 1258TG without running a glitch buster on any of my cars with VXL-3s either.
    Sounds like a great choice.

  23. #63
    RC Racer
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    I achieved my goal of running 70mph in the space provided on the street in front of my house so I'm happy.

    Was having rear shock problems again, but it appears that has been fixed. I ended up removing about 1/8" of spacers from the front shocks, & about 1/3" from the back shocks. The rear suspension works "better", at least using 2s, with more travel. No matter what I do I can't seem to get more damping in the front shocks, even with 1 hole pistons and 45wt shock oil. But the rear is much more stable now with the current shock settings, 2deg of camber in the rear, in the front 0deg of camber and 1deg of toe in.

    I'm happy being able to just run up and down the street in front of my house on 2s at 53mph & not have to find some other place to run my car.

  24. #64
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2019
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    That will be the cheaper option, but I really want to see how fast you can go!

  25. #65
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    That will be the cheaper option, but I really want to see how fast you can go!
    I want to see how fast it'll go too.

    My spare time has been spent neutralizing the cars handling behavior. An over-steer condition was corrected, but the underlying snap-oversteer remained, & correcting that has been where most of my time has been spent. For the most part it has been corrected as far as I've been able to, with more travel to the front & rear shocks, & an increase to the shock oil weight, 1-hole pistons were installed when I initially lowered the shocks. But I still need more damping in the front, to make the handling more neutral when the brakes are slammed on, to stop within the limited room on the road in front of my house. When I get the suspension dialed in to my satisfaction, & it's almost there, I'll go for 75mph or whatever the car will do with 36/18 gears.

  26. #66
    RC Racer
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    Basically, I fixed the oversteer on turn-in, but when the brakes were engaged the front would dive, the rear would lift until the rear shocks reached the end of its travel, and the back would keep lifting until the rear tires were off the ground enough, locking the rear tires, and sending me in to an uncontrollable spin. Most of the time that just resulted in spinning off on to the shoulder of the road, or in to puddles, but still a complete loss of control. That's been addressed for the most part, I just need a little more damping in the front and I think it'll be good. 60wt shock oil is the last thing before I replace the front shocks to get more damping. I don't need more spring pressure, I need the shock to slow down as it travels so the weight doesn't transfer as quickly to the front & unload the back.

    So yeah, I want to see how fast she'll go, but I want to fix the chassis behavior before I turn all knobs to 11. I'd like the car to survive the attempt, LOL.
    Last edited by danner; 06-07-2019 at 11:25 AM.

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