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Thread: MIP x duties

  1. #1
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    MIP x duties

    Has any one flipped the sliders? Remember when turning the plastic axles was the big secret, to keep dirt and what not from building up. Is it necessary on the MIP axles or should I just install them the normal way?

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier spunkybob's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what the "normal" way is but everyone I've seen is to install the female end on the diffs and the splines on the wheel side.

    This way any dirt falls out.

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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    ^That is the normal way. Works fine for me.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

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    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Right on, I was just curious. As a side note, in the front with STRC steering blocks I'm getting clearance issues. The MIP joint is binding on the aluminum. Nothing a drimel won't fix just thought I'd put it out there. I'll have to check if the pin is centered also, make sure it's not sticking out on one side
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  5. #5
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Here's a picture of what I'm talking about

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Here's a picture of what I'm talking about

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    After you run it a few times, the MIP X-Duty should make its own room. Hardened steel has a way of correcting things in its way
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  7. #7
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    So just let her rip I guess. I got the front done, just have gthe rear to do. Nothing like a make over to make it unbreakable. This truck, aside from stub axles, hasn't had an issue yet. After a smash em up bash party my son and his friend decided to do, an arm broke. That's what started this. So, I'm just going to run her, after I do the rear, and let it work out. Thank you for the replies fellow addicts, we truly are brothers in addiction.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier spunkybob's Avatar
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    I have yeah racing hubs and I used a Dremel to make the holes slightly larger.. didn't need much but they definately binded.

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    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    After you run it a few times, the MIP X-Duty should make its own room. Hardened steel has a way of correcting things in its way
    I have the STRC hubs too, and like El Sob said, couple runs and you'll have the clearance you need. I had the same issue. I did have some difficulty getting the stubs out the first time because things probably got hot and maybe had some aluminum where it shouldn't have been.
    Last edited by nickruger; 05-12-2018 at 05:09 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I had an issue with the alloy rear carriers binding at full extension. Can't recall the brand, think they were atomik. I ground them a bit with the dremel so they wouldn't rub.


    The fronts were ok though.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  11. #11
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    Installed my x duties last week. One axle already bent, and the wobble caused the inner bearing to basically explode.

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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel1slash View Post
    Installed my x duties last week. One axle already bent, and the wobble caused the inner bearing to basically explode.

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    You need to call MIP. They have excellent customer service. They should replace it for you. May I ask how you bent it?
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    You need to call MIP. They have excellent customer service. They should replace it for you. May I ask how you bent it?
    I have contacted them and they are looking into replacement, but not yet confirmed. I was doing some high speed passes on a soccer field when it rolled. I think I should switch to a Nicd battery and a 9 tooth pinion. Speed is killing my wallet

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel1slash View Post
    I have contacted them and they are looking into replacement, but not yet confirmed. I was doing some high speed passes on a soccer field when it rolled. I think I should switch to a Nicd battery and a 9 tooth pinion. Speed is killing my wallet
    You for sure don't want to do that! What fun would that be? Might as well get a Toys R Us car
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    You for sure don't want to do that! What fun would that be? Might as well get a Toys R Us car
    can't. toys r us is all gone now......

    but anyways, wow! I bash hard, and multiple rolls at crazy speed, and no issues with the MIPs. also, I run the MIPs in the traxxas aluminum carriers and have no problems

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    can't. toys r us is all gone now......

    but anyways, wow! I bash hard, and multiple rolls at crazy speed, and no issues with the MIPs. also, I run the MIPs in the traxxas aluminum carriers and have no problems
    They're not gone yet. They are still having liquidation sales I also only run Ultimate edition trucks, they all have aluminum. So the plastic or especially the RPM may expand and help the axle to bend.
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    I'm running in the aluminum carriers as well. If you look at my pics, you'll see the axle bent at the thread, just outside the hex. It literally bent the center of the wheel hub. I have to tighten the wheels nuts hard because they back off easy at high speeds. Fix one problem, create another. Training mode from now on until I get road tires like I've seen on El Sob's ride. Speed on asphalt and take it easy on the grass and dirt.

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  18. #18
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Does anyone have the various lengths of the "male bones" on the MIP X-duty? Tried to find this info on their website, but couldn't find what I was looking for.

    Seems to me that there are more splines exposed outside the female housing than it should be. And when I move the suspension full range, it seems to only move in or out about 1/4in or so using the RPM arms. Not sure how far the spline grooves go inside the female housing either.

    Also, if I decide to switch to the Proline arms, even more spline will be exposed, and a chance it could pop out if a longer shaft is NOT used?

    I was thinking if they had one about 1/2in longer it would great. What are your thoughts? Overthinking on my part?
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 05-28-2018 at 01:24 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel1slash View Post
    I'm running in the aluminum carriers as well. If you look at my pics, you'll see the axle bent at the thread, just outside the hex. It literally bent the center of the wheel hub. I have to tighten the wheels nuts hard because they back off easy at high speeds. Fix one problem, create another. Training mode from now on until I get road tires like I've seen on El Sob's ride. Speed on asphalt and take it easy on the grass and dirt.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    Are you running 12mm hexes? Was your stub axle and wheel nut really hot?

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    Last edited by nickruger; 05-28-2018 at 05:02 PM.

  20. #20
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    When you use the pro line protrac arms you end up getting stub shafts from a different MIP model and that allows the extra length you need

  21. #21
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    When you use the pro line protrac arms you end up getting stub shafts from a different MIP model and that allows the extra length you need
    I believe it's the rustler male spline, it will make your mips fit with the protrack arms
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Are you running 12mm hexes? Was your stub axle and wheel nut really hot?

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    Yes I'm using the stock 12mm that came in the MIP kit. As far S heat, I was so ****ed about what happened that I just picked up the Slash and put back in the trunk. I didn't asses the damage til later.

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  23. #23
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel1slash View Post
    Yes I'm using the stock 12mm that came in the MIP kit. As far S heat, I was so ****ed about what happened that I just picked up the Slash and put back in the trunk. I didn't asses the damage til later.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    I'll tell you the first time something like this happened to me what happened was I overtightened my wheel nut, it pushed in on the hex, which pushed in on the bearing causing extreme heat. I had been having trouble with wheel nuts coming loose so I ran it for a few minutes and checked the wheel nut and burnt my finger on it because it was so hot. Could be a cause of the bearing failure. Could it get hot enough to soften that axle enough to bend it? That's probably a stretch. It can get hot enough to melt a plastic hex.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    I believe it's the rustler male spline, it will make your mips fit with the protrack arms
    Thank you.

    Finally found the measurements I wanted for the splines...

    Slash 4x4 = 44mm
    Rustler = 68mm

    The female splines are the same for both models. 43mm I believe.

    So yes...the Rustler should work fine.

    (Saw another place that 86mm, and 114mm male splines too)
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 05-28-2018 at 09:02 PM.

  25. #25
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    Thank you.

    Finally found the measurements I wanted for the splines...

    Slash 4x4 = 44mm
    Rustler = 68mm

    The female splines are the same for both models. 43mm I believe.

    So yes...the Rustler should work fine.

    (Saw another place that 86mm, and 114mm male splines too)
    MIP#11105 is what you want if you already have the MIP axles. It's the proper length male bone for the protrac kit. It is indeed the one for the rustler.

  26. #26
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    Well there is some good news. MIP is sending two new axles and spacers, problem one fixed. I'm also going to put one of the stock Traxxas fiber washers between the hex and the bearing. Hopefully that helps a little. Since I have three almost brand new mounted Badlands, I'm gonna try to heat up the hub on the warped one, and try to get it as straight as possible. It'll be a huge waste if I have to by a new set of 2.8 wheels and change them over. In the meantime, I'm tuning Talons on the back with a pair of the Badlands on the front. Looks odd, but gets the job done. Also switching to a 10 tooth pinion to help cool things down.
    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I'll tell you the first time something like this happened to me what happened was I overtightened my wheel nut, it pushed in on the hex, which pushed in on the bearing causing extreme heat. I had been having trouble with wheel nuts coming loose so I ran it for a few minutes and checked the wheel nut and burnt my finger on it because it was so hot. Could be a cause of the bearing failure. Could it get hot enough to soften that axle enough to bend it? That's probably a stretch. It can get hot enough to melt a plastic hex.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angel1slash View Post
    Well there is some good news. MIP is sending two new axles and spacers, problem one fixed. I'm also going to put one of the stock Traxxas fiber washers between the hex and the bearing. Hopefully that helps a little. Since I have three almost brand new mounted Badlands, I'm gonna try to heat up the hub on the warped one, and try to get it as straight as possible. It'll be a huge waste if I have to by a new set of 2.8 wheels and change them over. In the meantime, I'm tuning Talons on the back with a pair of the Badlands on the front. Looks odd, but gets the job done. Also switching to a 10 tooth pinion to help cool things down.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    Update on warranty. Pro-Line is sending a new set of wheels to replace the warped hub on my 2.8 Badlands. MIP already delivered a pair of axles and spacers for the rear set on my Slash. Thanks to all the people in this forum and the Traxxas community, for telling us about the great service offered by the big brands in RC. The down time was great too. Took the whole truck apart, cleaned it, and ready to roll for the summer!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Sounds great! Keep us posted on how the new parts work out for you.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Has any one flipped the sliders? Remember when turning the plastic axles was the big secret, to keep dirt and what not from building up. Is it necessary on the MIP axles or should I just install them the normal way?

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    I bought used slash with fliped front MIP axles, I donít reason but seems ok.

    I donít have time to finish rebuilding but when I found it i will back them in normal position.


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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexsasax View Post
    I bought used slash with fliped front MIP axles, I donít reason but seems ok.

    I donít have time to finish rebuilding but when I found it i will back them in normal position.


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    Everywhere I've read, they say you should have the shafts the other way. More likely to have dirt build up with the female side near the wheel, like a funnel straight to your bearings.

  31. #31
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    You can get a rubber boot that will cover the opening to keep dirt out.
    Shack's build thread has good details on this with pictures and part numbers.

    -Liberty

  32. #32
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    I just read through the thread. This is a great thread and posts too. Bought the MIP x D's for the rear. Cant wait to see my clearances... But hey! what fun is it if you don't have to do mods! Custom Dude!
    Choose Life !!!

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