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  1. #1
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    Looking to buy some parts, need suggestions

    I got my Slash about a week ago. I've recently sold some of my other RC stuff, so I have some cash to buy Slash parts. I already decided I'm getting the Proline adjustable front and rear body mounts and aluminum shocks caps. I was thinking about getting a second lipo.

    What else do you guys recommend? New shocks, aluminum parts, new steering? Let me know what you think.

  2. #2
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    I'd get the shock caps right away....then save that cash for when stuff breaks, then upgrade accordingly.

    Second battery would be good tho.....

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    I'd get the shock caps right away....then save that cash for when stuff breaks, then upgrade accordingly.

    Second battery would be good tho.....
    ^^ What this guy said ^^

    My opinion on shocks is that they are a good upgrade only when you cannot tune any more performance out of the ones you have. Too many people throw GTRs or BBs on their trucks and expect it to suddenly perform really well; reality is if you don't take any time to tune them, you likely will not see any kind of a performance increase.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    ^^ What this guy said ^^

    My opinion on shocks is that they are a good upgrade only when you cannot tune any more performance out of the ones you have. Too many people throw GTRs or BBs on their trucks and expect it to suddenly perform really well; reality is if you don't take any time to tune them, you likely will not see any kind of a performance increase.
    I recommend getting a set of losi shock oils cause you get a large variety.

  5. #5
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    The aluminum shock caps are certainly an upgrade over stock however, the newer GTR style cap is even better IMO. It doesn't require the standoff which causes it to unthread itself during use.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bashnslash View Post
    The aluminum shock caps are certainly an upgrade over stock however, the newer GTR style cap is even better IMO. It doesn't require the standoff which causes it to unthread itself during use.
    Same goes with the big bores, the diaphragm is built in to the cap, so much easier.

  7. #7
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    https://m.traxxas.com/products/parts/8361

    These are great. First I got the aluminum caps but still had the issue with that dumb shoulder screw backing itself out ever pack.
    Then I found a plastic standoff to use with the aluminum caps but the button screw that replaced the shoulder screw STILL insisted on backing itself out. Not as fast as the shoulder screws but still annoying.

  8. #8
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    I personally do not like bling so I stay away from aluminum whenever possible. Having said that I would strongly recommend going with aluminum castor blocks because they will protect the blocks pin from bending. Alum. shock caps are a must for the rear. I usually keep the stock caps up front. Next RPM compensating front arms will let you run rears all around. Next get an RPM clutch cover because they seal really nice and have a generous slipper adjust hole. I run RPM rear arms also for durability. That's pretty much it.
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    The First thing I broke on my first and second 2wd's were the front caster blocks as Kenmtb stated; I've since made them a automatic upgrade on any 2wd Slash I acquired after that.
    I put aluminum shock caps an tini shafts on my wife's pede but but with the exception of my MT 4wd having GTR's all my other rigs run PL power strokes or Pro Specs.
    These are about the only things I personally would replace before they broke; a better servo may be something to keep in mind for a future upgrade or at least keep a cheap Traxxas rebuild kit on hand should you strip the gears out.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  10. #10
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    First thing: don’t “upgrade” a part until it breaks. (Most of the time) Here is a list of parts I think you should get for your sl4sh:

    1)MaxAmps battery tray expansion kit for sl4sh
    2)SMC True Spec Premium 7400mAh 90c hardcase wired lipos (these are made in 2s and 3s packs. Choose what you want!)
    3)GTR style aluminum shock caps
    4)shoo goo and drywall plaster tape (to prolong the life of your body. Research how to “shoo goo” your RC body on YouTube. You will find what you need.)
    5)for the use of 3s lipos with your VXL esc and motor, buy the HotRacing aluminum esc cooling fan for the VXL-3s esc and buy a heat sink with a cooling fan for the vxl 3500 motor.(540 size)
    6)when your front bumper breaks, buy an upgraded one from T-bone Racing.
    7)when your CVD’s break, buy MIP X-Duty CVD’s for the sl4sh.
    8)if your wheel hexes strip, buy metal ones(12mm) from Tekno RC
    9)Kingheadz motor mount for sl4sh
    10)STRC aluminum bell crank for sl4sh
    11)proline adjustable body mounts for the sl4sh
    12)VG racing chassis brace
    13)A set of HUDY or MIP hex drivers
    14)If a turnbuckle breaks, buy new ones from Lunsford
    15)aluminum caster blocks and hubs
    16)my fellow hobbyists- what have I missed? I know I have skipped some things and forgotten some others...
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  11. #11
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    My recommendation would be the Traxxas LCG chassis conversion. It handles so much better and looks good, too.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksheep72 View Post
    My recommendation would be the Traxxas LCG chassis conversion. It handles so much better and looks good, too.
    He/She’s bashing though. Not racing. I think He/She would be better off with more ground clearance.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvHexRC View Post
    He/She’s bashing though. Not racing. I think He/She would be better off with more ground clearance.
    I strictly bash my LCG and would never go back to the stock HCG chassis. You have the same clearance under the front and rear regardless of which chassis is being used. In my opinion, the gain in handling outweighs any lost clearance in the middle of the chassis. If you're running in a spot where that clearance is absolutely needed, then a 2wd Slash probably won't perform well there anyway. Just an opinion based on my personal experience.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksheep72 View Post
    i strictly bash my lcg and would never go back to the stock hcg chassis. You have the same clearance under the front and rear regardless of which chassis is being used. In my opinion, the gain in handling outweighs any lost clearance in the middle of the chassis. If you're running in a spot where that clearance is absolutely needed, then a 2wd slash probably won't perform well there anyway. Just an opinion based on my personal experience.
    agree 100%

  15. #15
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    I guess you guys are right. The handling outweighs the little bit of extra clearance.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvHexRC View Post
    First thing: don’t “upgrade” a part until it breaks. (Most of the time) Here is a list of parts I think you should get for your sl4sh:

    1)MaxAmps battery tray expansion kit for sl4sh
    2)SMC True Spec Premium 7400mAh 90c hardcase wired lipos (these are made in 2s and 3s packs. Choose what you want!)
    3)GTR style aluminum shock caps
    4)shoo goo and drywall plaster tape (to prolong the life of your body. Research how to “shoo goo” your RC body on YouTube. You will find what you need.)
    5)for the use of 3s lipos with your VXL esc and motor, buy the HotRacing aluminum esc cooling fan for the VXL-3s esc and buy a heat sink with a cooling fan for the vxl 3500 motor.(540 size)
    6)when your front bumper breaks, buy an upgraded one from T-bone Racing.
    7)when your CVD’s break, buy MIP X-Duty CVD’s for the sl4sh.
    8)if your wheel hexes strip, buy metal ones(12mm) from Tekno RC
    9)Kingheadz motor mount for sl4sh
    10)STRC aluminum bell crank for sl4sh
    11)proline adjustable body mounts for the sl4sh
    12)VG racing chassis brace
    13)A set of HUDY or MIP hex drivers
    14)If a turnbuckle breaks, buy new ones from Lunsford
    15)aluminum caster blocks and hubs
    16)my fellow hobbyists- what have I missed? I know I have skipped some things and forgotten some others...
    I think he asked for slash rwd?
    No need for tekno wheel hex with mip x duty.


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexsasax View Post
    I think he asked for slash rwd?
    No need for tekno wheel hex with mip x duty.


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    Just because it’s a 2wd slash(I admit, I thought this was in the sl4sh forum. Anything that I said for the sl4sh should be for the slash2wd instead. My bad.) doesn’t mean that upgraded CVD’s and hexes won’t be a big durability upgrade.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by User View Post
    Same goes with the big bores, the diaphragm is built in to the cap, so much easier.
    For the record, I switched the oil in my big bores and turns out the diaphragms are NOT built into the cap, they just came that way out of the box. Still a good shock.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvHexRC View Post
    Just because it’s a 2wd slash(I admit, I thought this was in the sl4sh forum. Anything that I said for the sl4sh should be for the slash2wd instead. My bad.) doesn’t mean that upgraded CVD’s and hexes won’t be a big durability upgrade.
    Yes I figured that I was saying that mip x duty’s (great upgrade for driveshafts) comes with metal hexes so no need for another one( especially Tekno because they are not compatible with mip driveshafts)


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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexsasax View Post
    Yes I figured that I was saying that mip x duty’s (great upgrade for driveshafts) comes with metal hexes so no need for another one( especially Tekno because they are not compatible with mip driveshafts)


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    I forgot that you had to modify those to fit the MIP’s... (*~*)
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