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  1. #1
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    Gears making grinding noise?

    Hey I need some help please. Sounds like gears are grinding. If I go full throttle from a standstill it struggles and makes a loud noise but it still accelerates to top speed but it just takes a sec or two. Is this a problem with the shipper clutch? (I have little experience with rc). The spur and pinion are brand new along with rear drive shaft. Thanks everyone for your help!

  2. #2
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    Did the noise start after you replaced the spur, pinion and rear drive shaft if so I would start with those.

  3. #3
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    Flip the car on its roof, give a tiny bit of throttle (I know vxl 6s doesn’t have tiny throttle so just do as little as u can) and see if the wheels don’t roll at a constant speed (meaning they’re spinning... slowing down... spin up again... then slow down... etc.) then it may be that rear diff u talked about in ur other post. Shame these things happen to guys like you.

  4. #4
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Can't really help unless we get a noise description!

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Did the noise start after you replaced the spur, pinion and rear drive shaft if so I would start with those.
    Yes it did. I will open up the bottom and check out the drive shaft, the spur and pinion look just fine. Thank you

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Can't really help unless we get a noise description!

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    The best way I can describe the noise is - it sounds like the gears are slipping but they aren’t. At least the pinion and spur aren’t. And if I only give it a little bit of throttle it makes a rattling sound as it struggles to accelerate

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post
    Flip the car on its roof, give a tiny bit of throttle (I know vxl 6s doesn’t have tiny throttle so just do as little as u can) and see if the wheels don’t roll at a constant speed (meaning they’re spinning... slowing down... spin up again... then slow down... etc.) then it may be that rear diff u talked about in ur other post. Shame these things happen to guys like you.
    The tires stay consistent with the throttle

  8. #8
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    Take the body off and add down pressure with your hand to the motor if it makes a sound without the wheels turning maybe your slipper is to loose.

  9. #9
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    I just tried the throttle while holding all 4 tires in place and I can see the spur and pinion just moving back and forth not spinning at all (of course it wouldn’t spin while holding all tires in place) but shouldn’t the spur and pinion just get stuck in place instead of moving back and forth

  10. #10
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Cogging? Loose motor wire?
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Cogging? Loose motor wire?
    They’re all tight

  12. #12
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    One of the motor wires is exposed though through a small rip, could this cause this issue? I will post a link to the picture of the motor wire.

    https://ibb.co/jZMyno

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJAY View Post
    I just tried the throttle while holding all 4 tires in place and I can see the spur and pinion just moving back and forth not spinning at all (of course it wouldn’t spin while holding all tires in place) but shouldn’t the spur and pinion just get stuck in place instead of moving back and forth
    I should of been more specific, when I check my spur for tightness if my truck doesn't dig 4 holes it's to loose if the spur spins and the wheels don't move I tighten the slipper.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJAY View Post
    One of the motor wires is exposed though through a small rip, could this cause this issue? I will post a link to the picture of the motor wire.

    https://ibb.co/jZMyno
    I don't think that would be the problem. First thing I always check is the spur and pinion mesh. You may have not set it correctly when you replaced the spur and pinion. THIS is what I'm talking about. If that's not the issue, try removing the motor and roll the car to see if there is any kind of noise. If so, I'd take a look at the diffs.

    Hope this helps. Hopefully you can get back up and running soon.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    I should of been more specific, when I check my spur for tightness if my truck doesn't dig 4 holes it's to loose if the spur spins and the wheels don't move I tighten the slipper.

    Going to locate the slipper and try that

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    I should of been more specific, when I check my spur for tightness if my truck doesn't dig 4 holes it's to loose if the spur spins and the wheels don't move I tighten the slipper.
    Yea try what Rain Dawg said.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadsideracoon View Post
    Yea try what Rain Dawg said.
    It isn’t digging ! Currently trying to find the slipper clutch. I guess I gotta know what it looks like first haha

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJAY View Post
    One of the motor wires is exposed though through a small rip, could this cause this issue? I will post a link to the picture of the motor wire.

    https://ibb.co/jZMyno
    Not sure but I would say if it was arcing you would hear it tick or see a little blue arc (maybe) I think penut posted a similar pic more curious as to how (for my own reference) those wires get damaged.

  19. #19
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    Could any of you post a pic pointing me out the location of the slipper clutch please?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJAY View Post
    Could any of you post a pic pointing me out the location of the slipper clutch please?
    If it's a 2.0 you can stop looking for the slipper clutch because it doesn't have one. It has a cush drive. To me it sounds like a diff issue. You can also watch it closely when it is hesitating to take off. If the front wheels look like they are getting full power, starting to balloon, peeling out, and the rears aren't, it's probably a diff issue. Or vice versa. Punch it in reverse, if it doesn't try to endo and the rears are peeling out, the problem is probably in the front diff.
    Last edited by nickruger; 06-09-2018 at 06:03 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    If it's a 2.0 you can stop looking for the slipper clutch because it doesn't have one. It has a cush drive. To me it sounds like a diff issue. You can also watch it closely when it is hesitating to take off. If the front wheels look like they are getting full power, starting to balloon, peeling out, and the rears aren't, it's probably a diff issue. Or vice versa. Punch it in reverse, if it doesn't try to endo and the rears are peeling out, the problem is probably in the front diff.
    Awesome thank you for the info! I’ll test this today and see what the results are.

  22. #22
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    AJAY

    My apologies I didn't realize there was no slipper we have yet to receive any locally and I just assumed my bad, here's what I see locally on the orders lol.


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    AJAY

    My apologies I didn't realize there was no slipper we have yet to receive any locally and I just assumed my bad, here's what I see locally on the orders lol.

    No worries going to open up the bottom and see what I find.

  24. #24
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    Ok. Let us know what you find.
    Slash 4x4 w/TSM
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  25. #25
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    Accessing the diffs is a little bit involved, not too bad, just take your time, use the exploded views that are available, take pictures of your own if need be. If something doesn't look right, it probably isn't. It does not take much to screw a diff up. Ask as many questions as you need to.

  26. #26
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    Everything looked good I’ll have to get a second opinion and just take this thing to the shop have them find what I’m not seeing. The truck will not climb up a curb or stairs, if I put my foot in front of the bumper and give it throttle it just (for lack of a better word) slips and does not push forward. No pick up and go with it anymore.

  27. #27
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    Here are some photos of what I’m looking at and I do not see anything that doesn’t look right, I will attempt to open up the front part of the diff, it looks a bit buried though.
    https://ibb.co/im218T
    https://ibb.co/gOh18T
    https://ibb.co/cYrpv8
    https://ibb.co/f9if2o
    https://ibb.co/mipyoT

  28. #28
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    Disconnect your drive shafts on the rear and the diff will lift right out of there. Usually the problem is on the inside. There are 4 spider gears and 2 output gears inside that diff cup where all the action happens. They could be damaged. All it takes is one of those 4 bearings you see to go bad and it will start damaging those gears inside because everything starts getting sloppy.

  29. #29
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Here is what mine looked like when it failed last week.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  30. #30
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    I have uploaded a video to better show the issues I am having. It will not try to move forward with an obstacle in front of it, and also I show towards the end of the video that it will not self-right either. Truck does not have the get up and go it used to.

    https://youtu.be/lUtIWTdAxtE

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Disconnect your drive shafts on the rear and the diff will lift right out of there. Usually the problem is on the inside. There are 4 spider gears and 2 output gears inside that diff cup where all the action happens. They could be damaged. All it takes is one of those 4 bearings you see to go bad and it will start damaging those gears inside because everything starts getting sloppy.
    Could you help me finder those spider gears? I haven't seen those yet. I would like to open that up and take a look. Thanks bud

  32. #32
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    Honestly I'm stumped after seeing the video. It seems like it takes off fine.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  33. #33
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    If you pull the diff out it will look something like this. This one is for a different vehicle, but it's pretty much the same. Take the 4 screws out of the top of the ring gear, carefully lift straight up on the ring gear and inside you will find what's in my pictures above. Just check it for function by turning it manually, while looking for any broken teeth or slop.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  34. #34
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    I just watched your video again. I would also check the cush drive. Make sure that it's reassembled properly after you changed the spur. I noticed the second time you hit reverse it didn't cog at all, straight to full power.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I just watched your video again. I would also check the cush drive. Make sure that it's reassembled properly after you changed the spur. I noticed the second time you hit reverse it didn't cog at all, straight to full power.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    I’m not sure what Cush drive is I will look it up now and see what I find thank you! Yes it will sometimes be at full power like that just randomly. I’ll be back with an update

  36. #36
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    I just looked at a picture of the Cush drive and yes I reassembled it earlier today I suppose I could’ve done it wrong though I will look at it again.

  37. #37
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    Hmm. After watching your video is looks to me that your motor is just cogging. Unless it's just me? I would still check all the diffs and whole drivetrain just to be sure though.
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  38. #38
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    What batteries are you running? That really sounds like cogging to me. Not just your run of the mill cogging though. It's the cogging you get from batteries not supplying enough juice or a bad connection from the motor to the ESC. Who knows, I could be dead wrong.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    What batteries are you running? That really sounds like cogging to me. Not just your run of the mill cogging though. It's the cogging you get from batteries not supplying enough juice or a bad connection from the motor to the ESC. Who knows, I could be dead wrong.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    My motor cogged a ton because the housing was frayed and also some of the wires got cut. After I repaired it with heat shrink I only have a slight misfire with the motor. If it’s motor related I say check the wires. Make sure none are bent too far at the gromit.

  40. #40
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    Unfortunately my plugs from ESC to motor were damaged (the rubber covers for the plugs were ripped pretty bad) and there is also a wire with exposed copper just outside of the hole where the wire comes from the motor. So this is likely to be my issue? If so does this mean an entire new motor + esc? Thank you guys!
    Last edited by AJAY; 06-10-2018 at 01:51 AM.

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