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  1. #1
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    Drive motor problem

    So I was driving my trx 4 a couple days ago and I had it in high gear but it was unusually slow.Everything else on the trx 4 worked fine at a good speed.i drove it the next day but this time the motor had almost no power.I could pull the throttle all the way back in high gear but it would just lurch forward.The steering and all the mini servos worked completely fine.Please reply to me and let me know what the problem is.thanks.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier lotust251's Avatar
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    how many times have you went threw deep water? My stock motor did the same thing then died on me. Luckily a direct replacement is 17$ or so. But I know it was from my water crossings and mud.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Slash, Stampede,Craniac,X2 TRX4 ,ford gt 4 tec 2.0

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lotust251 View Post
    how many times have you went threw deep water? My stock motor did the same thing then died on me. Luckily a direct replacement is 17$ or so. But I know it was from my water crossings and mud.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    This would be my guess as well, and what does most of these motors in. Waterproof does not mean maintenance-proof.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  4. #4
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    I didnt exactly go through deep water i didnt submerge it in water.i went through some mud and water yesterday but i thought only the wheels got muddy.i did see just one very small drop of mud on the bottom or the motor though.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier lotust251's Avatar
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    test the ESC output voltage I think mine read 12v at full throttle. Im pretty sure you motor is toast. Order a new one. Its super easy to replace and cheap too.
    Slash, Stampede,Craniac,X2 TRX4 ,ford gt 4 tec 2.0

  6. #6
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    I would first try to clean the motor out (after removing it) and re-lube the bushings. And yes, you can measure the output voltage from the ESC at full throttle, the reading should be close to what your battery is giving. Around 8 volts for 2S, around 12V for 3S.

  7. #7
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    i called traxxas support a couple days ago thinking my motor was bad so i actually was going to ask him if warranty covered it.but he told me that maybe the bearings rusted and that was the cause of the seemingly weak motor.then i took all the portals off and put WD-40 on the bearing and took the diff covers off and got WD-40 on those bearings.then i put wd-40 on the motor bearings and rotated the motor with my fingers some.i put my battery in there and drove it around some as recommended by the man i called at traxxas support.it seemed a little less weaker but still was unusually slow.i took out the motor then rolled it around some in low and high gear.it rolled around pretty easily.then i put my brushless stampede motor in there and i just rolled it some,i didn't plug it in and drive it.it rolled around ok in both gears.right now im thinking its the transmission or transfer case.im being a little hesitant to open it up because i wasn't sure how to.today i looked at an exploded view of the transmission and transfer case online and found out how to open up just the transfer case.i also noticed that there was a clicking noise that i suspected is the screw holding on the pinion gear to the motor hitting the spur gear.i took off 2 screws from the motor mount but i couldnt take off the middle one!it was stripped out!thats where i am right now.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert 1100 View Post
    And yes, you can measure the output voltage from the ESC at full throttle, the reading should be close to what your battery is giving. Around 8 volts for 2S, around 12V for 3S.
    im running a nimh battery, and i just tested the output voltage and it was around 10 volts.traxxas 2940x is the battery that im running in it.

  9. #9
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    update:so today i watched a video made by traxxas on youtube explaining how to calibrate the esc on your truck.i actually called traxxas support the day before and he said maybe i need to calibrate my esc.so i did it and it worked...okay.

    It was still really slow in both gears and it didn't seem to have much power either.Everything else worked just fine.but it would do exactly what it did to me about a month ago when i started having problems with it.

    it would drive around about 10 seconds then the drive motor would just quit.A month ago when that started happening i tried turning it off and turning it back on.it still drove around for 10 seconds then died.i tried calibrating it over and over but it did the same thing.what's going on?

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    At this point I would start looking at everything on the truck.

    1. Is the ESC or motor getting hot quickly?

    2. Is the drive train free to roll in both gears?
    - I would remove the motor for this, everything should be nice and smooth.

    3. Test the motor and battery removed from the truck. The motor should spin up proportional to throttle input, there should be the noise of the motor with a bit of electrical whine, but no grinding or squeaking.

    4. The battery, you might want to start with this one first...
    - Nominally you get 1.2VDC per cell, and times seven cells you get 8.4VDC. Full charged voltage should be around 1.5VDC, with a pack voltage around 10.5VDC. So, it sounds like your pack is charged fully. But, if you have a couple of bad cells, the voltage will drop drastically when the pack is under load, this is when you should actually be testing it. I would recommend getting or borrowing another pack.

    Also, what color is the ESC's LED when you turn the truck on?
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  11. #11
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    i just drove it around some indoors and when it died the esc and motor were just the smallest bit warm.i tried rolling it around in both gears without the motor a while ago and it did just fine.i tested the motor out of the truck and it accelerated fine.I also have a stampede that has 7 cell batteries but it has the seventh cell on the top instead of on the side like my trx-4 battery so do you know if i could use it in there?.Also the esc blinks slow red which i believe means that low-voltage detection is off.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Your ESC's BEC should be solid red when no throttle input is given.

    Recommend trying your Stampede's pack in the TRX4, you will not be able to use the battery retainer, but you might be able to secure the battery in there with a zip tie. Or, just don't mash on the throttle too hard, you're really just trying to see if the battery is the problem.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  13. #13
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    I just tried that and it didn't work.The first time the motor did almost nothing just lurched forward and tried to keep moving.Also the steering and mini servos worked fine,but it shut off after about 5 seconds.

    The second time I tried another stampede battery and it almost did nothing.it had a hard time steering right and didn't steer left,the drive motor didn't work,nor did the mini servos work at all!

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    The only things left to do are to replace the motor and ESC.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  15. #15
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    Maybe the LiPo protection mode is enabled? If you are using Nimh batteries, then the protection jumps in because Nimh have a high voltage drop under load.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny View Post
    Maybe the LiPo protection mode is enabled? If you are using Nimh batteries, then the protection jumps in because Nimh have a high voltage drop under load.
    How would I find out if it was?

  17. #17
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    If you turn on the car and the ESC lights solid green, LiPo protection is enabled. Solid red means it is off(you want it for Nimh Cells).

    Gesendet von meinem SM-T900 mit Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny View Post
    If you turn on the car and the ESC lights solid green, LiPo protection is enabled. Solid red means it is off(you want it for Nimh Cells).
    It actually blinks red slowly,which I think means it has low voltage.

  19. #19
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    Right and this means -i think- that protektion mode is on. Use a full pack to toggle to non protektion mode.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyletheRCguy View Post
    i called traxxas support a couple days ago thinking my motor was bad so i actually was going to ask him if warranty covered it.but he told me that maybe the bearings rusted and that was the cause of the seemingly weak motor.then i took all the portals off and put WD-40 on the bearing and took the diff covers off and got WD-40 on those bearings.then i put wd-40 on the motor bearings and rotated the motor with my fingers some.
    Just a word of advice here. WD-40 is NOT adequate lubrication for the portals and differentials! These need to be lubed with grease, preferably water resistant grease.
    Last edited by Inspector86; 10-17-2018 at 09:25 PM.
    It's a rock, get over it!

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