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  1. #1
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    E Revo VXL 2.0 1/10 - Battery Life

    Hi,

    I've just purchased the new E Revo 2.0 VXL 1/10, running 2x 3S 4000mAh 45C Peak Racing batteries. I've found the run time to be pretty poor to be honest, only getting ~4 to 6 mins of hard run time before the LVD kicks in and cuts the power to 50%. When I check the batteries remaining power they still have quite a bit of juice remaining (just not enough to get past the LVD stage 1 detection i guess?) What is everyone else's experience with run time using a different (or the same) battery setup?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    I'm running onxy 2s 50c 5200mah. On my last run on a slick dirt track was about 45 mins I timed. I was running it in training mode for a bit. Just trying to go slow to get good laps and had the occasional few min stop to black tape connect to motor together since they kept popping apart. Just bashing I seem to get 30ins to 1h out of a set of batteries.

    If doing speed runs it battery life will be alot less.

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  3. #3
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    Im new to this but I been somewhat happy with the battery life. I got 2 3s 25c 5000mAh and I haven't really had any runs less than 35-40 minutes. I haven't been going full out or anything.

    Does the lower c output help with battery life?

  4. #4
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    The E-Revo 2.0 is power hungry in my opinion. The only thing I have to compare it to is my 9000mah smc batteries. In my O.G. ERBE I would get close to an hour, if I could ever run them down that is. Same batteries in the 2.0 gave me 25 to30 minutes. The truck is big, bad and power hungry! Get some extra batteries and watch your motor temp! Just remember, what ever you do, keep having fun!

    it's alright son, I'll fix it when you break it.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    The E-Revo 2.0 is power hungry in my opinion. The only thing I have to compare it to is my 9000mah smc batteries. In my O.G. ERBE I would get close to an hour, if I could ever run them down that is. Same batteries in the 2.0 gave me 25 to30 minutes. The truck is big, bad and power hungry! Get some extra batteries and watch your motor temp! Just remember, what ever you do, keep having fun!

    it's alright son, I'll fix it when you break it.
    I agree it is a beast of a machine and great fun. I actually have 6x 4000mAh 3S Peak Racing batteries and have another 2x 3S 6000mAh Gens Ace coming tomorrow. I was considering installing the telemetry and disabling the LVD to run the batteries closer to their limit (set up an alert in the app) the LVD seems to kick in way too early for my liking

  6. #6
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    I think i read somewhere that you'll drop a lipos cell voltage momentarily, if you're pulling high amps on a battery with an optimistic 'C' rating.

    What I'm trying to say is that you'll use more of the batteries capacity, without kicking in low voltage, if your only using it within a certain amp range.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Necroscope View Post
    I think i read somewhere that you'll drop a lipos cell voltage momentarily, if you're pulling high amps on a battery with an optimistic 'C' rating.

    What I'm trying to say is that you'll use more of the batteries capacity, without kicking in low voltage, if your only using it within a certain amp range.
    Hi,

    Just trying to get my head around this. So what you're saying is that when you pull high ampage from the battery, say when going full throttle, then if the discharge rating of the battery is slightly optimisatic the cells may drop below the required threshold to kick in Stage 1 of LVD? I read somewhere that the below voltage is what the cells need to drop to before LVD kicks in

    Stage 1 = 3.6v 50% Power
    Stage 2 = 3.3v Cuts Power

  8. #8
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crispybadger View Post
    Hi,

    Just trying to get my head around this. So what you're saying is that when you pull high ampage from the battery, say when going full throttle, then if the discharge rating of the battery is slightly optimisatic the cells may drop below the required threshold to kick in Stage 1 of LVD? I read somewhere that the below voltage is what the cells need to drop to before LVD kicks in

    Stage 1 = 3.6v 50% Power
    Stage 2 = 3.3v Cuts Power
    I think what's trying to be conveyed is, battery voltage drops under extreme amp draw. If the battery is struggling to supply the needed power, the voltage drop is more pronounced. Resolution, get higher discharge rating (c rating) batteries.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    I think what's trying to be conveyed is, battery voltage drops under extreme amp draw. If the battery is struggling to supply the needed power, the voltage drop is more pronounced. Resolution, get higher discharge rating (c rating) batteries.
    The Peak Racing ones I have are 45C, not sure if thats the continuous or the burst? Some sites say 45C is the burst, so pretty crap I guess? The Gen Ace's are 35C with 70C burst so lets see if they are any better

  10. #10
    Traxxas Employee TireSlinger's Avatar
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    So here's my take on this. Lets say for the sake of example everything is exactly the same except the batteries. Same truck, same amp draw, same conditions, etc. Pack A vs Pack B.

    Pack A under max acceleration (read max amp draw) drops 0.8v from resting voltage.

    Pack B under the same load drops 0.3v.

    If the cutoff on the speed control is set at 3.2v (just an example) then Pack A will hit that and then recover to a resting voltage of 4.0v per cell while pack B will hit that and recover to a resting voltage of 3.5v per cell.

    When you put a meter on the pack after the run, pack A will seem to have "more charge". However, it really depends on how well the cells handle the demands of the vehicle.

    This could be due to a variety of factors, but generally higher capacity cells handle amp draw with less of a voltage drop. The proof is in the pudding, if you get 5 mins from a set of batteries, and longer from another, then they're better able to handle the demands of the application.
    Our doubts are traitors, and make us lose the good we oft might win, by fearing to attempt.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TireSlinger View Post
    So here's my take on this. Lets say for the sake of example everything is exactly the same except the batteries. Same truck, same amp draw, same conditions, etc. Pack A vs Pack B.

    Pack A under max acceleration (read max amp draw) drops 0.8v from resting voltage.

    Pack B under the same load drops 0.3v.

    If the cutoff on the speed control is set at 3.2v (just an example) then Pack A will hit that and then recover to a resting voltage of 4.0v per cell while pack B will hit that and recover to a resting voltage of 3.5v per cell.

    When you put a meter on the pack after the run, pack A will seem to have "more charge". However, it really depends on how well the cells handle the demands of the vehicle.

    This could be due to a variety of factors, but generally higher capacity cells handle amp draw with less of a voltage drop. The proof is in the pudding, if you get 5 mins from a set of batteries, and longer from another, then they're better able to handle the demands of the application.
    This makes sense! Thanks. I’ll give the Gens Ace a go tomorrow to see if there is any difference. It maybe that having a reasonable mAh (4000 or 5000) and a higher C rating to cope with the burst (volt drop) would be better than a battery with high mAh and a lower C rating

  12. #12
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    In order to determine a packs capability it's mAh x c rating/1000. So a happy medium of mAh and discharge rate is optimal, the problem is that battery manufacturers inflate the c-rating on their packs. The industry is not held to any standards or governing agency. That's why I buy SMC batteries, they give you an honest amp rating on every pack as tested in their on facility. Actually some good reading on thier website if your interested in it.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    In order to determine a packs capability it's mAh x c rating/1000. So a happy medium of mAh and discharge rate is optimal, the problem is that battery manufacturers inflate the c-rating on their packs. The industry is not held to any standards or governing agency. That's why I buy SMC batteries, they give you an honest amp rating on every pack as tested in their on facility. Actually some good reading on thier website if your interested in it.
    Makes sense. Ill have a look at the SMC batteries as well. Thanks

  14. #14
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    I think something is up with your packs. I run my erevo 2 on 3s 5000 25c batteries and get 35 mins minimum with a lot of full throttle runs. I get about 25 to 30 mins on my Xmaxx with 20t/46t going 50 mph. Bashing and speed runs all in the same drive.

    5 minutes is not right for 4000 maH
    More like 1000 mAh for 5 minutes


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  15. #15
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    My 2S 5000mah Arrow batteries have a 50C-100C burst and I get about 30 minutes out of them. My buddy gave me some 3S 5400mah Onyx batteries, not sure of the C rating, and I get about 30 minutes out of those also.

  16. #16
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    OP...

    did you ever figure this out? My 2.0 worked fine through about five or 6 packs. Now, it will act normal for 4 or 5 minutes, and then it cuts power, but the batteries are still reading over 12v each. I am thinking there is an issue with the ESC. Any resolution?

    BTW, I am using maxamps 6000 MAH 100c batteries.

  17. #17
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    I just bought 2 smc batteries a week or so ago when I got my erevo 2.0. They seem to do really good so far.

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  18. #18
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    With dual lectron pro 11.1v 5200mah 50c 3s i get about 40-60 minutes of run time before low voltage cut-off. link of battery below

    https://www.amazon.com/Common-Sense-...f_B01BI5AU2S/?

  19. #19
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    I have the same issue as others. Fresh pack. Wot. Stage 1 lvc kick in a out 100ft later almost right away. On both sets of my lectron 5200 50c packs.

    My battery connectors are trashed. On battery side and car side. Corrosion, Melting of the plastic ect... My guess is it is the connectors not supplying enough juice and or poor connection contact.

    I just ordered some xt90s (antispark) connectors. Hoping that fixes the issue. And gives me a better connection.

    It's also time to go through my car,. Clean and repack all bearings on everything as well. So may have extra rolling resistance as well. Motor bearings needs replacing as well.

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  20. #20
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    To be honest id recommend higher capacity batteries 4000 is very low. Try and get at least a few pairs of 5000mah+

  21. #21
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I think you are on the right track with the connectors. I'm not sure the quality of connectors that the lectron batteries use, but I've bought other brands that came with traxxas knock off connectors that were poor quality and caused problems. I try to stick with genuine connectors, I scoured the web looking for genuine traxxas connectors a few years ago when it was rumored that they were going to stop selling them so I have a little stock pile. I bought a 6.5mm castle charge lead once and it turned out those were knockoffs so I only buy connectors from reputable places like Amain or direct from Castle.

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  22. #22
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    The lectron came with adapters to trx. Those were pos. I soldered on trx connectors my lhs had. With the adapters truck kept shutting off due to connection breaks. So not sure on if authentic trx connectors.

    On car tear down also found my rear center driveshaft bent and rubbing. Shaft was almost rubbed to nothing very soft. And first bearing from drive shaft to diff to be pretty crappy. Took me about 1.5h to get that bearing off.... I'll have to test car once rebuilt and things fixed before changing connectors. To see if the extra rolling resistance was issue.



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  23. #23
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    The lectron came with adapters to trx. Those were pos. I soldered on trx connectors my lhs had. With the adapters truck kept shutting off due to connection breaks. So not sure on if authentic trx connectors.

    On car tear down also found my rear center driveshaft bent and rubbing. Shaft was almost rubbed to nothing very soft. And first bearing from drive shaft to diff to be pretty crappy. Took me about 1.5h to get that bearing off.... I'll have to test car once rebuilt and things fixed before changing connectors. To see if the extra rolling resistance was issue.



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    I recently had a center shaft problem too, check this out. Oops.

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  24. #24
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    Is that an erevo 1.0?

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