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  1. #1
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    Slipper clutch tightness

    What is the benefit of having the slipper clutch loose and whatís the benefit of having it tight?

    For bashing purposes what is recommended?


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  2. #2
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Loose, you dont put as much strain on the driveline.

    Tight, you get more direct power and less heat.

    I wrench mine all the way down but its advised to wrench it down and back it off 1/4 turn.

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashMaxx4x4 View Post
    Loose, you dont put as much strain on the driveline.

    Tight, you get more direct power and less heat.

    I wrench mine all the way down but its advised to wrench it down and back it off 1/4 turn.

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    How does tightening and loosening affect the torque and speed?


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  4. #4
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Tight will give you more torque.

    As for speed, tight might give you a little more than loose.

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  5. #5
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    Top speed will be the same (unless u doesnt have it totally loose). Usualy ppl likes it tight, loose will cooldown motor a bit (depends on riding style), and save your driveline (prevent bend axles), but too loose wil generate a heat from clutch itself, and nice smell . As said, fully tight it and 1/4 turn back

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wuadeq View Post
    Top speed will be the same (unless u doesnt have it totally loose). Usualy ppl likes it tight, loose will cooldown motor a bit (depends on riding style), and save your driveline (prevent bend axles), but too loose wil generate a heat from clutch itself, and nice smell . As said, fully tight it and 1/4 turn back
    I do no racing, or speed runs. Only bashing. A lot of off road and jumps.

    Iíll just play around with it. Traxxas says to have it tightened to the point where it slips within two feet off of a full throttle start.

    Is that at all relevant?

    Thanks for the reply.


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  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Iansprouse1's Avatar
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    Since you are just bashing, take SlashMaxx4x4ís advice and fully tighten them loosen 1/4 turn. Hopefully it will help protect your rig from the bashing


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  8. #8
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    Iíll do just that.

    Sort of on the topic;
    Is setting mesh with the paper method a correct way to do it? Or is there some new way now?


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  9. #9
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash.4x4 View Post
    I do no racing, or speed runs. Only bashing. A lot of off road and jumps.

    I’ll just play around with it. Traxxas says to have it tightened to the point where it slips within two feet off of a full throttle start.

    Is that at all relevant?

    Thanks for the reply.


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    As long it slips a little bit, you have it set right. I do not agree with the "tighten all the way then back out 1/4" method, because it will depend on your traction, your power system, what you are doing with the truck, etc. Just set it so that it slips a little bit when punching it from a stand-still.

    Or hold it up in the air, full throttle and drop the truck. It should slip before it grenades the drivetrain.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slash.4x4 View Post
    I’ll do just that.

    Sort of on the topic;
    Is setting mesh with the paper method a correct way to do it? Or is there some new way now?


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    I don't like that method either. Set it as tight as possible while still having a little bit of play between the gears. Like 0.5mm or so back and forth.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    As long it slips a little bit, you have it set right. I do not agree with the "tighten all the way then back out 1/4" method, because it will depend on your traction, your power system, what you are doing with the truck, etc. Just set it so that it slips a little bit when punching it from a stand-still.

    Or hold it up in the air, full throttle and drop the truck. It should slip before it grenades the drivetrain.



    I don't like that method either. Set it as tight as possible while still having a little bit of play between the gears. Like 0.5mm or so back and forth.
    Shouldnít the notebook paper do exactly that? Also what do you mean by slipping just a little bit?


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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post

    Or hold it up in the air, full throttle and drop the truck. It should slip before it grenades the drivetrain.
    Brilliant.
    For anyone attempting this, please record the event and post the vid so we can discuss the results for scientific purposes.

  12. #12
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    push your gears together, as tight as they will go. Back it off till you see a very little gap. Once you do that, tighten screw and check the correct gap by listening for a tiny back and forth click. If you don't hear that click on every gear you need to back them apart a hair more. tighten screw and check again... sounds like a lot to do, but it's not and that is your perfect mesh.

    When I first started the hobby in 2006 I did the paper method one time. Saw a video on what i am describing and have done it that way since. Only one stripped gear. A faulty proline transmission slipper caused that.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-03-2018 at 09:58 PM.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    push your gears together, as tight as they will go. Back it off till you see a very little gap. Once you do that, tighten screw and check the correct gap by listening for a tiny back and forth click. If you don't hear that click on every gear you need to back them apart a hair more. tighten screw and check again... sounds like a lot to do, but it's not and that is your perfect mesh.

    When I first started the hobby in 2006 I did the paper method one time. Saw a video on what i am describing and have done it that way since. Only one stripped gear. A faulty proline transmission slipper caused that.
    Iím assuming I need to spin the gears to hear the clicking noise? And what do you mean by each gear?

    Also, the proline transmission is only for 2wd right?


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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I use the click method first, but always follow-up with the sound method last:



    There was a good video on the "click" method, but I can't find it... I'll keep looking for you.
    Last edited by Squeegie; 08-03-2018 at 11:51 PM.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Not the video I was looking for, but a quick one to show the "click:"

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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    This one:

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  17. #17
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    the tick ok not the click and that would be on every tooth in case either the pinion or the spur is not perfectly round. which is the case most of the time.

    I just watched post 16 video and he had a bit to much play in that.

    Post 14 was a perfect mesh. as long as I hear that with each tooth i'm good. I never run the motor.
    Also, the proline transmission is only for 2wd right?

    Yes it was, I used it one time on my rusty and the slipper hole where it slides on the shaft stripped out. Was not a very good design in my opinion.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-04-2018 at 12:35 AM.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    the tick ok not the click and that would be on every tooth in case either the pinion or the spur is not perfectly round. which is the case most of the time.

    I just watched post 16 video and he had a bit to much play in that.

    Post 14 was a perfect mesh. as long as I hear that with each tooth i'm good. I never run the motor.



    Yes it was, I used it one time on my rusty and the slipper hole where it slides on the shaft stripped out. Was not a very good design in my opinion.
    Thanks for the follow up. Did you get a chance to see #15? Do you also recommend the click and then the sound method?


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  19. #19
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    I think I understand. I want a small tick tock when moving the spur back and forth, but not too much play, and I also want to check wether or not the gear mesh is quiet and smooth while running.


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  20. #20
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash.4x4 View Post
    I think I understand. I want a small tick tock when moving the spur back and forth, but not too much play, and I also want to check wether or not the gear mesh is quiet and smooth while running.


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    Yes sir you got the idea. I guess I did not explain it correctly in my first post. If i can hear that back and forth tick all the way around the gears. In my book I am good to go....Actually I don't test every tooth. I skip a few each time. Hope that makes sense.

    I just looked at that vid in post 15. In My opinion that mesh looked a tad loose to me.

    I just looked at 16 again and that one for me, was way too loose even though it had all metal gears.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-04-2018 at 10:12 AM.
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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I agree, the mesh in the videos were a little too loose, but I posted them so that the OP gets the idea of the "click/tick" method.

    I always use the "tick" and confirm with the "sound" methods.

    Have fun!
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I agree, the mesh in the videos were a little too loose, but I posted them so that the OP gets the idea of the "click/tick" method.

    I always use the "tick" and confirm with the "sound" methods.

    Have fun!
    Probably a dumb question, but could you explain the ďOPĒ I see it on my screen just have no idea what it means.


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  23. #23
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash.4x4 View Post
    Probably a dumb question, but could you explain the ďOPĒ I see it on my screen just have no idea what it means.


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    "op" is original poster. Meens the person who started the thread

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  24. #24
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I agree, the mesh in the videos were a little too loose, but I posted them so that the OP gets the idea of the "click/tick" method.

    I always use the "tick" and confirm with the "sound" methods.

    Have fun!
    Sure enough was and I can't believe HPI-racing even put there name on that video. In fact do they even know it's on there. Pretty sad i thought.

    Same to you sir! Enjoy the remainder of the weekend everyone......
    Last edited by lektro; 08-04-2018 at 02:23 PM.
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  25. #25
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    One more question guys. By tightening all the way down itís safe to assume you mean where you canít tighten the but anymore right?


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  26. #26
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    alrighty guys. I was working on the click method. I noticed my car doesnít roll unless connected to power. Is this normal?

    Second, I was moving the motor plate to adjust the pinion and I could only move it about halfway through. Is that normal?
    Look at the screw; I couldnít push it down any farther. Not that I needed to, I just want to make sure itís supposed to be like that.


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  27. #27
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    Alright so hereís an update. I realized my shaft was too small for my pinion and thatís why I couldnít roll my car... I think.

    Still curious about the motor plate adjusting and the definition of screwed down for the nut on the slipper.


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  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash.4x4 View Post
    Alright so here’s an update. I realized my shaft was too small for my pinion and that’s why I couldn’t roll my car... I think.

    Still curious about the motor plate adjusting and the definition of screwed down for the nut on the slipper.
    1. "my shaft was too small for my pinion and that’s why I couldn’t roll my car..."

    Is your motor's shaft 3mm and you're trying to put 5mm pinions on it? Get the right pinions for the shaft you have. What motor are you running?

    2. "Still curious about the motor plate adjusting"

    The slot is there so you can adjust for different size pinion and spur gears. Where is sits in the slot varies with each gear. Don't worry about it.

    3. "definition of screwed down for the nut on the slipper."

    Screwed down all the way means when the screw is tightened until the spring is completely compressed. Once compressed, loosen the nut a quarter turn.

    Hope that helps!
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  29. #29
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    Slipper clutch tightness

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    1. "my shaft was too small for my pinion and thatís why I couldnít roll my car..."

    Is your motor's shaft 3mm and you're trying to put 5mm pinions on it? Get the right pinions for the shaft you have. What motor are you running?

    2. "Still curious about the motor plate adjusting"

    The slot is there so you can adjust for different size pinion and spur gears. Where is sits in the slot varies with each gear. Don't worry about it.

    3. "definition of screwed down for the nut on the slipper."

    Screwed down all the way means when the screw is tightened until the spring is completely compressed. Once compressed, loosen the nut a quarter turn.

    Hope that helps!
    Messed up with the pinion. I think itís a 1/8Ē shaft. Whatever is on the mamba max pro.

    I think Iíve got like a 4600kv motor or a 5700kv motor. I honestly have no idea. Bought the car with it and there was no indication about what it is. I can only assume it was a motor bundled with the mamba max pro.

    About the motor plate. I understand how it works. I was asking why the top half of the slot was not accessible.

    Edit: it is a 1/8th shaft.


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    Last edited by Slash.4x4; 08-04-2018 at 06:51 PM.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    You said, "my shaft was too small for my pinion and that’s why I couldn’t roll my car..."

    Since your motor has a 5mm shaft, what pinions did you get for it? Not tooth count, but hole size?



    If you ran a very small spur gear with a small pinion, you would be able to use the "top half of the slot."

    As I said earlier, "The slot is there so you can adjust for different size pinion and spur gears. Where is sits in the slot varies with each gear. Don't worry about it."
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  31. #31
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    Slipper clutch tightness

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    You said, "my shaft was too small for my pinion and thatís why I couldnít roll my car..."

    Since your motor has a 5mm shaft, what pinions did you get for it? Not tooth count, but hole size?



    If you ran a very small spur gear with a small pinion, you would be able to use the "top half of the slot."

    As I said earlier, "The slot is there so you can adjust for different size pinion and spur gears. Where is sits in the slot varies with each gear. Don't worry about it."
    I meant 1/8Ē (about 3mm) not 1/8th motor sorry.
    Iíve got that figured out.

    Thanks for clearing up the motor plate. Sorry I sounded a little redundant. I just couldnít fit the motor plate in that position where you could physically screw it on. (Without a pinion). It doesnít really matter.

    Thanks for the replies




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  32. #32
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Maybe your motor is wider in diameter than the stock motor and so doesn't go down any further.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  33. #33
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    If you are asking why the motor won't go any further to utilize the rest of the slot. Its probably something stopping the motor due to the motor housing/can being large and hitting something on the chassis.

    On my motor plate with the gearing I have, I can only utilize about a 1/4" of the slot. Reason being I have a 1/8 motor and the larger can and the gears, limit the movement of the motor.

    With that being said, It limits me to what size gearing i can use also. Right now I an using 54T spur and i believe 13 or 14t pinion. If I don't like the results. I also have a 36T spur and 19-25T pinions.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-05-2018 at 06:28 AM.
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  34. #34
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    The pics shown I have the 54t spur and the 14t pinion. I can only go smaller on my pinion because i have no room to go larger. I can reduce the spur to 36 and then go with a larger pinion. As you see, with a larger motor than stock. It reduces my options of gears which is not a bad thing in my case.





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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    The pics shown I have the 54t spur and the 14t pinion. I can only go smaller on my pinion because i have no room to go larger. I can reduce the spur to 36 and then go with a larger pinion. As you see, with a larger motor than stock. It reduces my options of gears which is not a bad thing in my case.





    Yes that is exactly what I was asking about.


    I never took time to think about that. With a 1/8th motor your gearing options are very limited. For speed do you just have to go with a much larger pinion and a much smaller spur?



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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Yes, or go with a center mount motor plate.
    Last edited by Squeegie; 08-05-2018 at 10:40 AM.
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  37. #37
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    Slipper clutch tightness

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Yes, or go with a center mount motor plate.
    A center motor plate? Do you by chance have a product name or number?

    I havenít heard of it. Is a popular option?


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    Last edited by ati; 08-05-2018 at 06:50 PM.

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    A center motor plate? Do you by chance have a product name or number?

    I haven’t heard of it. Is a popular option?


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    I'm not sure if this is still available but it was made by Saga I believe.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    http://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/c3/Motor_mounts.html

    This and the above pic were before I mounted it to a STRC mount but it still doe's the same job.
    I made a few runs with the plastic mount and it did fine; I almost didn't bother drilling and tapping the STRC mount but had a few of them so went ahead and did it anyways.

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Last edited by billy-bones; 08-05-2018 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Added a picture.
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  39. #39
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    Slipper clutch tightness

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I'm not sure if this is still available but it was made by Saga I believe.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    http://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/c3/Motor_mounts.html
    I read about this today and not even a few minutes later I see this exact mount on a slash on instagram. How ironic!

    It seems like a good idea.

    Why isnít it a popular choice. I understand itís not readily available but still?


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  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I read about this today and not even a few minutes later I see this exact mount on a slash on instagram. How ironic!

    It seems like a good idea.

    Why isn’t it a popular choice. I understand it’s not readily available but still?
    There still available, I just looked them up and posted the link above.
    A lot of fella's make their own but as far as I know they've been quite a good seller.

    Here's the link again.
    http://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/c3/Motor_mounts.html
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