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  1. #1
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    Converting to single servo

    Hi everyone,

    My servos are either starting to break or are too weak to truly handle the model as it stands now. I figure I'll upgrade to a single servo already instead of waiting till they break, or I get tired of it being too weak. I've adjusted the current servos as close to 90░ and 180░ as possible and it's very close. Nevertheless they seem to be getting weaker.

    Anyway, I've seen a lot of options, for instance this one: Sav÷x SA-1230SG.

    My problem is that the servo is in store in Sweden, but the servo arm isn't. (In the video he suggested using DYN5230 aluminium servo arm.)

    Is there a more generic name on this part or does someone else have some suggestions of what else could work? Or is there something else I'd need to make this conversion work?

  2. #2
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Servo horn is a luxury not a necessity, I run a single savox servo and bolted it right in

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by HelsRike View Post
    Hi everyone,

    My servos are either starting to break or are too weak to truly handle the model as it stands now. I figure I'll upgrade to a single servo already instead of waiting till they break, or I get tired of it being too weak. I've adjusted the current servos as close to 90░ and 180░ as possible and it's very close. Nevertheless they seem to be getting weaker.

    Anyway, I've seen a lot of options, for instance this one: Sav÷x SA-1230SG.

    My problem is that the servo is in store in Sweden, but the servo arm isn't. (In the video he suggested using DYN5230 aluminium servo arm.)

    Is there a more generic name on this part or does someone else have some suggestions of what else could work? Or is there something else I'd need to make this conversion work?
    Hey buddy - a possibile alternative (which I recent bought) to the Savox is the Power HD WP-23KG Waterproof High Torque Metal Gear Digital Servo 23KG/0.12S 6V...

    I got it on Amazon - it was cheaper than the Savox with similar ratings in throw speed & torque... It came with a proper and beefy arm also... I had the luxury of cheap access to an aluminum arm but I'm very confident the one that came with it would serve you well...

    Here's a link to it... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBS18YZ..._leEzBb390FF04

    I'm super happy with it - it's on an ERBE 1 (last edition before the 2.0) with the stock tqi w/telemetry. Works flawlessly - faster than stock and this single is definitely stronger than the twin stock...

    You can always upgrade to an aluminum arm at a later date...

    Hope the info helps!

    ~2loki4u

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Thank you so much for the fast responses FnFancy and kz121, I really appreciate it!

    I had no idea the horn wasn’t necessary, seeing how I didn’t even know it was called a horn :P Knowing the term I found a video on YouTube, Getting Into RC that’ll help me on my journey. Still, I’ll try to find a horn anyway, seems to be a pain to install a servo on the E-Revo and I’d prefer not doing it more than once, even if the horn won't make a huge difference

    Regarding the Power HD WP-23KG, I’m taking a look at it now and it looks great. However, me being located in Sweden, it might not be ideal. It’ll take two to three weeks to deliver from the US, and it will cost me like $30 for shipping alone. Despite being a Prime Member (for their online movies primarily). Still, it’s a very good place to start, and maybe if I'm lucky, I can find a retailer that sells it here

    Regarding the stats, I’m wondering if the dimensions are relevant even in larger RC:s or will most fit? If there’s little space over for a bigger servo, is there a way to find out how large it can be at most? Or do I have to measure it myself? Also, are there other compatibility issues I should look out for?

    Thanks again for the replies, appreciated

  5. #5
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    Don't be intimitadated about the servo swap - it's super easy - hardest part is just knowing to remove the entire Rx box... Makes it easier to slip the wires and connectors through...

    The steering parts were super easy...

    The power HD servo size is essentially the same base size at the stock ones...

    Hopefully you can source one locally...

    If looking at other servos you have to watch the torque is not that the two stock ones but don't go crazy or you'll need a battery eliminator circuit and glitch buster to deal with the current draw...

    The one Savox and this power HD are among the few that are plug and play - no need for other upgrades or special wiring - I didn't considerable time researching and talking to people using other servos and having to add other stuff...

    Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Hey again guys,

    Ran into some issues again. I was doing so well on the receiver with the wires and all. But then...

    1. I'm not sure how to connect the servo with the parts supplied. I went with the Power HD WP-23KG servo and there's no instructions on how to install it. These are the instructions (on the internet, included was even less). Below is the stuff I've got, and some photos of the car and how it's currently installed, how far I've gotten. There's some rubber-things, I guess those should be used when screwing the servo in. But the rest I have no clue what to do with.

    http://www.chd.hk/UploadFiles/Att/2016051717064551.pdf

    2. I also got a paper from the guys I bought the servo from on Ebay (posting a picture of this below) that basically the servo shouldn't be used by anything supplying more than 7.4 volts and that 2s LiPos are 8.4 and so shouldn't be used. I'm a bit confused about this. Does it mean that it can't handle a power source connected directly to the servo, or in general? Because 2s really isn't a lot :P kz121, I'm assuming you're using this with something more than 2s? I really don't want to wreck the whole system because of a servo :/

    Car:
    https://ibb.co/nEONi9
    https://ibb.co/cNiBbU
    https://ibb.co/h6u6Ap
    https://ibb.co/jc7nGU
    https://ibb.co/cNiBbU
    https://ibb.co/h6u6Ap

    Document;
    https://ibb.co/hGhXi9

    Parts:
    https://ibb.co/n3aUVp
    https://ibb.co/happVp
    Last edited by HelsRike; 08-14-2018 at 04:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz121 View Post
    Don't be intimitadated about the servo swap - it's super easy - hardest part is just knowing to remove the entire Rx box... Makes it easier to slip the wires and connectors through...

    The steering parts were super easy...

    The power HD servo size is essentially the same base size at the stock ones...

    Hopefully you can source one locally...

    If looking at other servos you have to watch the torque is not that the two stock ones but don't go crazy or you'll need a battery eliminator circuit and glitch buster to deal with the current draw...

    The one Savox and this power HD are among the few that are plug and play - no need for other upgrades or special wiring - I didn't considerable time researching and talking to people using other servos and having to add other stuff...

    Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Where did you purchase the single servo arm to reach the other side? Or am I missing something hear? Lol. I am in the USA.

  8. #8
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    Not sure if it's required to switch to a single setup? Maybe I'm mistaken, not sure but I thought using the old one and only connecting one side would work.

  9. #9
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    Oh ok I see now. Is there a benefit to have 2 of these servos connected? Is it overkill?

  10. #10
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    I'm not an expert in this field (to say the least :P).

    However, the stock servos are rated at 9 kg/cm, as such, as there's two of them, they would have 18 kg/cm. This servo has 23 kg/cm, so it's quite a bit more on its own, 21.7 % more to be precise. When I've been looking around, I've seen some using servos rated 25, some 30 kg/cm, which seems to be OK, but beyond that, it seems to be considered more than necessary.

    As such, I'm pretty sure most would agree that 46 kg/cm is very much overkill. Not sure if it's impossible, but seems to be overkill anyway :P Not sure if you already know how to convert from oz/inch (or if you need to) but using this calculator:
    https://www.convertunits.com/from/oz-in/to/kg-cm

  11. #11
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    I'm not an expert in this field (to say the least :P).

    However, the stock servos are rated at 9 kg/cm, as such, as there's two of them, they would have 18 kg/cm. This servo has 23 kg/cm, so it's quite a bit more on its own, 21.7 % more to be precise. When I've been looking around, I've seen some using servos rated 25, some 30 kg/cm, which seems to be OK, but beyond that, it seems to be considered more than necessary.

    As such, I'm pretty sure most would agree that 46 kg/cm is very much overkill. Not sure if it's impossible, but seems to be overkill anyway :P Not sure if you already know how to convert from oz/inch (or if you need to) but using this calculator:
    https://www.convertunits.com/from/oz-in/to/kg-cm

  12. #12
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    Hey guys, I'm having some issues still :/ I actually managed to get the servo on correctly, but it was too weak to return back to normal. I made a mistake as I installed it though, got the sides mixed up (+-). I checked the other, but it's the same thing. I've tried both of them together and they're as close as I can get to 90/180░ (maybe 88 or so) and they fight each other vigorously.

    They do work though, when they're together, it's just you can always hear the servos buzzing.

    Since there's some question marks regarding the voltage it can handle etc, could it be that? Or did I cause damage to the system in general you think? I'm going to order a new servo anyway but want to check if anyone have some insights?

  13. #13
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    All of my servos have buzzed or made some noise when I have TSM active. Even on my single servo slash I have this issue. Once I turn TSM off it appears to stop. I always figured this was normal. Just wanted to give some in sight so you are not trying to fix an issue that doesn't have a solution.

    I highly doubt that you damaged the servo by hooking it up backwards. I have never damaged a servo, by plugging it into the receiver backwards. However I have killed a receiver by plugging an ESC in backwards.

  14. #14
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    Here's how you connect two servos and not have them fight each other (or just check that they are properly set from factory before first run):

    Attach the servo horns to the steering mechanism but don't connect the horns to the servo yet.
    Turn on the car, make sure steering trim is set to neutral. By powering on the car you make sure the servos are in their center position. Adjust the wheels so they are as straight as you can and now connect one side to the servo.
    Now if the second servo horn aligns well with the servo then just connect it, if not then you have to adjust those adjustable links between horn and steering arm until everything aligns perfectly.

    if done correctly there will be little to no buzzing sound in the neutral position, if you try to turn the wheels by hand you should hear both servos buzzing as they counter act this. If servos is strong enough you can still turn the wheels due to the servo saver spring in the steering arm (this is to prevent gear stripping as you hit bumps and stuff). A little bit of buzz is normal. Even a tiny amount of force applied to a servo will cause it to correct back to neutral resulting in that buzzing sound. That's the polling rate of the motor you hear.

    If servos are connected and you don't know if they are in their center position then they may fight each other trying to re-center over one another and this is bad.

    Here is a video showing exactly how you would adjust the servos before first run from factory where horns and everything is already connected. Just keep in mind that on the e-revo 2.0 the servo horns are not mounted 90░ facing each other, its offset by 7░ as can be seen in the manual.


  15. #15
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    Hey guys, thanks for the comments

    As for the video, I've seen it (that guy's awesome by the way, wish there'd be more videos like that on YouTube where they explained everything so thoroughly).

    Anyway, even though I don't have a picture to prove it, the servos was 90░/180░ except one, which was within a +- 2░. It was as close we could get. I've got a new Sav÷x servo to try as well, but for now, it's working OK

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