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  1. #1
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    Villain IV Rebuild

    Hi all
    Purchased a villain iv off ebay and it looked decent in the photos but when it arrived it was a little more rough than I thought. A few pin holes in the hole and very dirty. So first step was to attempt to clean it and de yellow the hull. No luck so far on de yellowing so it looked like I'll paint it white. Heres what it looked like when I got it.


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  2. #2
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    My plan is to run duel vxl systems and water cool the esc and motors. Today I prepared everything and thought I has the esc programmed in sync and installed correctly but little did I know the y harness for both esc was shot. So a hour run to the hobby shop for a new one and that solved the issue. Also figuring out prop rotation was a fun time. I also installed new motor mounts and aluminum plate today.

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  3. #3
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    Tonight I got the boat running and took it for a spin while at ski practice for my water ski show team. I was pleasantly surprised how fast the villain was. The boat had a great hole shot and a decent top end. I will have to trim the outdrives up due to the bow drags. I also have a leak that I will have to figure out. Servo boots or shafts are leaking. I will also be cutting out a new plate to mount the servo and esc this week to make it look cleaner. As it sits it's a trainwreck of parts

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  4. #4
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    Next step is new props. Stock props are terrible and are just to small. I'm looking at carbon fiber 48mm or 51mm props. I will be doing new shafts. Also need help with watercooling boat vxl esc. Ofs sells esc cooling plates so those may work.

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  5. #5
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    Be careful going much lager than you've stated on prop size, the props will get close to contacting each other at the larger end. I forget the exact size that used to be common on this boat, but you can probably find it with a quick search.

    It looks great, by the way! Painting is definitely the best way to clean up the yellowing. My oldest Villain still needs some paint, but I just haven't gotten around to it.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Be careful going much lager than you've stated on prop size, the props will get close to contacting each other at the larger end. I forget the exact size that used to be common on this boat, but you can probably find it with a quick search.

    It looks great, by the way! Painting is definitely the best way to clean up the yellowing. My oldest Villain still needs some paint, but I just haven't gotten around to it.
    Off shore electric doesn't have 48mm props in reverse so it looks like 51mm props are it. Do you know the stock prop size?

  7. #7
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    I think they used to offer a 48mm kit for the Villain, but they took the 51mm props and cut them down to 48mm; you could do that yourself if you're careful. I think (still not 100% sure) that I installed a set of 51mm CF props on a Villain once. I had to adjust the turnbuckle between the drives a little bit to prevent the props from hitting. It did work, but cutting them down would probably be a better option.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    I think they used to offer a 48mm kit for the Villain, but they took the 51mm props and cut them down to 48mm; you could do that yourself if you're careful. I think (still not 100% sure) that I installed a set of 51mm CF props on a Villain once. I had to adjust the turnbuckle between the drives a little bit to prevent the props from hitting. It did work, but cutting them down would probably be a better option.
    That could work. I'll give ofs a call and see if they just don't have 48mm reverse but just not listed online

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  9. #9
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    Removed the old white floor and replaced it with a thin sheet plexiglass. It looks so much cleaner than before. Still need to clean up the wiring. Still working on a couple of ideas for water cooling for the esc's. Also looking at props. Today I drilled out my water pick up one size bigger to see if that will increase water flow.

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  10. #10
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    I received an email back from osf starting that they don't carry carbon fiber 48mm r props. So it looks like 51mm will have to do. I'll be putting in an order soon. I will also be ordering esc cooling plates or making my own. I will also be removing all decals this up coming week to prepare for painting. Has anyone built a new windshield?

  11. #11
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    If you could get your hands on some lexan material like the stuff used to make R/C bodies, you could probably fashion a new windshield out of that.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    If you could get your hands on some lexan material like the stuff used to make R/C bodies, you could probably fashion a new windshield out of that.
    I actually found a brand new deck with windsheild for $20 on Amazon so I'll be ordering one instead of making one then painting the deck too. I only have to paint the bow now

  13. #13
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    Very nice!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  14. #14
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    Haven't had anytime to take it for a run. I did use 3m buffing compound on the hull which took out most of the scratches and dirt off. Next will be masking off the boat to paint. I am going to scrap water cooling for now and install s 2x3 inch bruahless fan for inside the boat since I have one laying around. Not sure if it will work but it's got to do something.

  15. #15
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    Had some time and repainted most of the boat tonight. I still have some touch up work and reinstalling the windshield. Decals are on order.

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  16. #16
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    Looking good!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  17. #17
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    Took it out for a run tonight and the old decals are starting to grow on me. Looks like I'll be sticking with what's left for now. Props are beat up so I'll be ordering another set up

    Ran great

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    I also have a leak in the hull. I'm assuming it's coming in around the shafts. Will an autobailer be worth adding?

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    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-15-2018 at 05:51 PM. Reason: merge

  18. #18
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    If you want a cheap and easy prop upgrade (from stock), grab the Villain EX props. Assuming you weren't running better ones already.

    I'd pass on the autobailer. There are several places water can get in. I'd recommend checking the seal between the upper and lower halves of the hull. Then I'd check the steering shaft boots (my original Villain had one of these start leaking). You can just stuff the steering shaft boots with some marine grease if they're leaking (but not torn). You can also try resealing the driveshafts where they exit the hull. Keep in mind, there will almost always be some water getting in as the hatch doesn't seal all that well.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  19. #19
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    Is there any where else to buy the conversion shafts from 4mm to 3/16 besides offshoreelectric.com? They only have 1 shaft in stock

  20. #20
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    Not sure if they have what you need but worth a check. http://www.rcboatbitz.com/

  21. #21
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    Actually found 2 shafts from the same seller on ebay. Had to lay a little more but I have 2 coming. Also have turn fins, esc cooling plates, water tubing, water intake, and props coming in Wednesday or Thursday

  22. #22
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    I received water tubing tonight and accident ordered the wrong size. I'm going to replumb the motors with this larger size due to the stock tubing is tiny. Waiting on esc plates, shafts, and props. Turn fins are going to be here tomorrow

  23. #23
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    Turn fins are definitely a good idea with higher speeds; they'll really improve the overall handling of the boat. I'm happy to have some that were custom designed for the Villain many, many years ago.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  24. #24
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    Got some more parts in today. 3/16 shafts are installed and waiting on props still and cooling plates. Turn fins came in but weren't what I expected. They are about half inch long only so I'll be sending those back. Also have new water tubing installed. Has anyone ever taken the villain ex hatch lock and installed it on a iv?

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  25. #25
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    All the parts came in today and I got them installed. 51mm props barely fit. What's better cnc or brass props?

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  26. #26
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    I also took it out for a run and it flies compared to the original props. My guess is mid 30s to low 40s. The pond I was at was to small to get any full speed runs even. The boat constantly flew from wave to wave.

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  27. #27
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    You could install the twist lock hatch, but I'd stick with the IV hatch; it seals better in my opinion.

    As for props, CF are the way to go due to the fact that they don't require any maintenance (i.e. balancing and polishing). If you take your time, you could cut those 51mm props down a hair to fit better.

    The boat looks great!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    You could install the twist lock hatch, but I'd stick with the IV hatch; it seals better in my opinion.

    As for props, CF are the way to go due to the fact that they don't require any maintenance (i.e. balancing and polishing). If you take your time, you could cut those 51mm props down a hair to fit better.

    The boat looks great!
    Thanks man. Took the boat out for a run with a buddy and it sank. Pushed it back with a buddies boat. Receiver is shot. But motors and esc are good since every thing is waterproof. Looks like the issue is the top is not sealing right

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  29. #29
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    Do you use reverse much? Using reverse can cause the boat to get swamped quite easily; this will be especially problematic with non-Marine ESCs which do not have a marine profile limiting the reverse power.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Do you use reverse much? Using reverse can cause the boat to get swamped quite easily; this will be especially problematic with non-Marine ESCs which do not have a marine profile limiting the reverse power.
    The upper deck is warped on the sides and has a good half inch gap between the hull. That explains the water leak. I've been looking for a new upper deck but no luck. I called traxxas and they didnt have any and suggested a place to try and they were out. There is on on Amazon but the company selling it wont pick up the phone. I may try to order from them but I'm still looking for another one.

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  31. #31
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    Ah, alright. Good luck with the search!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Ah, alright. Good luck with the search!
    Found one on ebay. Should be here early next week. I will also be doing new gaskets around the top deck too

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  33. #33
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    New upper hull came in today. I will be adding the black covers and antenna tube to this one. Looks like it will seal better than the old warped one. Also looking for a new lower hull but haven't had any luck.

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  34. #34
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    Part of me thinks finding a clean donor boat would be a good route for you; that may be easier to find than a new hull.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Part of me thinks finding a clean donor boat would be a good route for you; that may be easier to find than a new hull.
    Ya not sure what to do with this boat. Parts are getting hard to find and I've called every link online for a hull with no luck. Most donor boats on ebay are beat up and they want a couple hundred dollars for them.

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  36. #36
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    Yeah, the Villain has been out of production for a while now, so that sort of thing is bound to happen. It's too bad, but it's just how it goes.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

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