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  1. #1
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    Question What parts are better in aluminum or better in plastic?

    In looking around at aftermarket parts, pretty much everything for the 1/10 ERBE is available somewhere in aluminum. Of all the parts, what is actually better in aluminum than the OEM plastic? For example, I've read that the A-arms are way better in the plastic and that the aluminum is just a flashy downgrade. Are any of the aluminum parts actually an upgrade (except the ever-popular rear chassis brace). Shock rockers? Shock mounts? Skid plates? Anything?

  2. #2
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Depends on what you do with it. The amount of abuse I put mine through, the only aluminum piece on it is that rear chassis brace. Some love the steering system (horn, arms...) to be aluminum, I haven't found it necessary. It really does depend on the application. Me personally, I break very few plastic parts and when I do it cheaper to replace. Maybe others can share their experiences with different parts and pros and cons.

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  3. #3
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    Yes...when I did your single-servo upgrade, I replaced all the steering items with aluminum. Was in needed or worth it? I'm not sure. The one think I can say that I like is tightening down screws in aluminum vs. plastic. Alot more positive feel when it's tight and less concerns about stripping. Just a more-solid feel...with isn't really relevant to anything I suppose. Just made me wonder what other parts are actually worth being aluminum.

  4. #4
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Speed run guys like aluminum, less flex and keeps the truck predictable. Bashers love plastic, the flex absorbs impact instead of transferring it other places. That said, on my non erevo bashers I always put aluminum bearing carriers, steering blocks and metal axles. Even on my O.G. ERBE the only thing aluminum is the rear brace. I've thought about shock towers for the erevo, but honestly, what ever flex is there is needed. On the first gen erevo alot (alot!) Of people went aluminum diffs and such, this isn't an issue with the 2.0. I dunno, it's a pretty stout truck!

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  5. #5
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I've noticed this truck has a lot of flex everywhere. Not that all of it is bad, but ive popped an axle out without breaking anything or pulling a rod or shock end out so the flex is there. I personally would be leary about going aluminum any where except axle carriers and the chassis brace. The rockers look sweet in aluminum but I have never broke one so I only see it as an aesthetic upgrade, which is fine, I like those too. Stock steering components to me are relatively tight compared to like a slash 4x4. Would aluminum be better? I was kind of curious about that one myself.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Speed run guys like aluminum, less flex and keeps the truck predictable. Bashers love plastic, the flex absorbs impact instead of transferring it other places. That said, on my non erevo bashers I always put aluminum bearing carriers, steering blocks and metal axles. Even on my O.G. ERBE the only thing aluminum is the rear brace. I've thought about shock towers for the erevo, but honestly, what ever flex is there is needed. On the first gen erevo alot (alot!) Of people went aluminum diffs and such, this isn't an issue with the 2.0. I dunno, it's a pretty stout truck!

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    Quick question (off topic). What are all the generations of the E-Revo? It's a little confusing when looking at parts. I see E-Revo, E-Revo 2.0, E-Revo 3.3, E-Revo Brushless, ERBE, E-Revo Brushless VXL...and they seem to have slightly different parts, yet some that are the same. Just unsure of the nomenclature between them all.

  7. #7
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    There are three electric revos and nitro revos
    Electric:
    E-Revo- this is the brushed revo, it came with dual brushed motors just like the summit
    E-revo brushless edition (ERBE, erevo 1.0, O.G. Erbe)- this is the first factory brushless revo, it came with a rebadged castle mamba monster 2 (badged the mxl6s) and a castle 2200kv motor.
    E-Revo VXL- this is the 2.0, it no longer uses the rebadged castle system but a traxxas vxl6s esc and a traxxas 2200kv motor, along with the beefed up drive train.
    Nitro:
    While nitro is not my strong suit, I believe the revo (not an E-Revo, the E means electric) had a couple motor options, 2.5 and 3.3. It has a different chassis than the electric counter parts, as well as obviously being nitro burning engines instead of electric.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobrar97 View Post
    Quick question (off topic). What are all the generations of the E-Revo? It's a little confusing when looking at parts. I see E-Revo, E-Revo 2.0, E-Revo 3.3, E-Revo Brushless, ERBE, E-Revo Brushless VXL...and they seem to have slightly different parts, yet some that are the same. Just unsure of the nomenclature between them all.
    Revo 3.3, not e revo 3.3, lol. Also the revo 2.5.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    There are three electric revos and nitro revos
    Electric:
    E-Revo- this is the brushed revo, it came with dual brushed motors just like the summit
    E-revo brushless edition (ERBE, erevo 1.0, O.G. Erbe)- this is the first factory brushless revo, it came with a rebadged castle mamba monster 2 (badged the mxl6s) and a castle 2200kv motor.
    E-Revo VXL- this is the 2.0, it no longer uses the rebadged castle system but a traxxas vxl6s esc and a traxxas 2200kv motor, along with the beefed up drive train.
    Nitro:
    While nitro is not my strong suit, I believe the revo (not an E-Revo, the E means electric) had a couple motor options, 2.5 and 3.3. It has a different chassis than the electric counter parts, as well as obviously being nitro burning engines instead of electric.
    Ok...that's not quite as confusing. So the E-Revo VXL (also called E-Revo 2.0) is the latest in the electric lineup.

  10. #10
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Yup, just don't confuse it with the merv! The merv is the mini E-Revo vxl. Ha, got you all confused again!
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Yup, just don't confuse it with the merv! The merv is the mini E-Revo vxl. Ha, got you all confused again!
    I've not seen anything specific to the "MERV" yet. Oh well...I'll keep an eye our for E-Revo 2.0 1/10 parts. I should be safe (for the most part).

  12. #12
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I break rockers enough to warrant replacing all the rockers on mine with aluminum. Kind of annoying to find rockers that capture both sides of the shock/pushrod like the stock ones do. I end up with integy, then hate myself. Although, on the last ste I bought, I also bought some 4mm and 5mm shims and destroyed a bearing or two to be able to get them to night bind with the post screws down tight. The previous ones were dremel, try, dremel try, dremel try, dremel... crap, too much.

    Outside of rockers, some sort of rear brace to tie the shock tops to the rear body mount and a better motor mount. I got the HPP motor brace that I don't think you can buy anymore. Might be able to get it via email: info@hpp-germany.com

    Also, a front rear skid place piece to tie the steering pivot to the bulkhead, not the very front bumper/skid as well as the cross member under the front/rear hinge pins and the cross member under the steering pivot. I've busted all of those more than once.

    If you run an alloy rear skid, I highly suggest you make a steel wear plate if you run on concrete. A skate park will make very short work of any rear skid. Once that breaks off, your hinge pins fall out. I've ground clean through a rear skid in less than 1 pack at my skate park.

    Looks crude, but I get a seasons worth out of it before having to make another:



    This was 2 months later after I got the t-bone wheelie bar/skid for the rear, I had to flatten the metal piece I made so I could still use it. You can see how much has ground through:


    It's just mild steel.

    This was an alloy one with tekno "protectors" on my nitro revos:


    Did the same thing on those:
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 10-09-2018 at 05:23 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  13. #13
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    [QUOTE=FnFancy;6471008]There are three electric revos and nitro revos
    Electric:
    E-Revo- this is the brushed revo, it came with dual brushed motors just like the summit
    E-revo brushless edition (ERBE, erevo 1.0, O.G. Erbe)- this is the first factory brushless revo, it came with a rebadged castle mamba monster 2 (badged the mxl6s) and a castle 2200kv motor.
    E-Revo VXL- this is the 2.0, it no longer uses the rebadged castle system but a traxxas vxl6s esc and a traxxas 2200kv motor, along with the beefed up drive train.
    Nitro:
    While nitro is not my strong suit, I believe the revo (not an E-Revo, the E means electric) had a couple motor options, 2.5 and 3.3. It has a different chassis than the electric counter parts, as well as obviously being nitro burning engines instead of electric.[/QUOT

    actually the first brushless erevo is the mamba monster edition which I have , then the rebadged one came out with the telemetry tqi controller.
    Erevo brushed
    Mamba monster brushless edition
    Mxl brushless edition
    2.0

    So there’s actually 6 if you count the nitros.

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