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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Flex Cable Soldering Made Easy

    Rather than using a soldering iron or a soldering torch to solder the end of a new Flex cable, here is an easy way to get the job done. First you take a ride down to Home DeePot and pickup two three quarter inch steel water pipe end caps.

    Then you flatten their bottoms by using a beltsander or file, and place them both on a piece of wood or brick (I used a piece of wood). Then you fill one up with flux and the other with pieces of plumber's solder.



    Then you heat the caps until the flux and the solder turn to liquid. Be careful not to burn the flux. Then heat up your flex able end with your torch, but just warm it up. It doesn't have to be even close to RED hot. Then all you do is put your flex cable in the flux for about 30 seconds and then in the solder for about 30 seconds. You repeat this several more times. I had to do it three times.





    After dipping three times, I used a wire brush to clean my work while it was hot (right out of the solder). When I got done it looked like this.



    Then I dipped it one more time in each cap, brushed it again, and then let it cool. When it cooled I smoothed my soldered area gently with a small fine file. Here's what I ended up with. Definitely, a lot easier than using a soldering iron or a soldering torch that's for sure.



    I tried out my Spartan's new flex cable last weekend, and everything worked great!

    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 09-27-2018 at 04:39 PM.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  2. #2
    RC poster
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    Rather than using a soldering iron or a soldering torch to solder the end of a new Flex cable, here is an easy way to get the job done. First you take a ride down to Home DeePot and pickup two three quarter inch steel water pipe end caps.
    That looks really good. I use a syringe with silver solder paste that i apply evenly around the flex-cable area to be soldered, then heat with the torch, really simple. But with "my" method, the result is not as professional as yours, as the solder wont sink in as much, its more of a toplayer coating, which will need inspection now and then.
    Why have one Spartan when you can have two?

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I use silver solder on all my electric connections, but use tin solder on this and most of my mechanical connections. I don't know if that's the best way or not, but it has always worked out well for me.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  4. #4
    RC poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I use silver solder on all my electric connections, but use tin solder on this and most of my mechanical connections. I don't know if that's the best way or not, but it has always worked out well for me.
    You mean you use a solder with silver in it? Or you use silver solder period? I wouldnt dare apply the amount of heat needed for silver solder on cables/esc connections and so on. It takes more heat than my soldering station can muster. (more than 350 degrees celsius. Im talking about pure silver solder.
    Why have one Spartan when you can have two?

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Solder with silver in it that's made for soldering surface mount electronics. The silver solder you're talking about is what they use on good quality flex cables/shafts and is very expensive. To much for me anyway. I've always had good luck with tin solder for that kind of stuff. Yes, it's not the ultimate, but (like I say) I've always had good luck with tin solder for hobby duty mechanical connections.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

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