Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 64
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270

    Aqualungs Slash build

    Iíve had a Stampede VXL 4x4 for over a year and it has been upgraded a little and with its new Masher tires I donít like taking it in the street anymore and thatís ok!
    So I decided to build LCG Slash brushless 2wd for streets/gravel, sand, etc. I like to bash, but would also like to do a little corner carving and racing.
    I just ordered the Chassis parts 5832 and 5831 in black on eBay free shipping. I will try to find green suspension parts in plastic and aluminum. I only want to use necessary metal parts. Iím ok with plastic. I plan on buying some parts every payday.
    Aside from my own research would love suggestions for:
    -Motor/ESC
    -Shocks and Suspension parts
    -Radio control unit
    -Axle/Diff housing and their components
    -Which alloy parts are a must
    Thanks again and look forward to this build!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Aqualungs; 09-29-2018 at 08:59 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    635
    This is my basher set up. CC for my motors. MIPS for nearly indestructible drive shafts. Aluminum knuckles and axle carriers. I use rpm arms, shock towers, and tranny case. Oh and I can't forget the mx2.8 badlands. My favorite part of the truck!
    Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide to do!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270

    Aqualungs Slash build

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxBash View Post
    This is my basher set up. CC for my motors. MIPS for nearly indestructible drive shafts. Aluminum knuckles and axle carriers. I use rpm arms, shock towers, and tranny case. Oh and I can't forget the mx2.8 badlands. My favorite part of the truck!
    Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide to do!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Awesome I planned on using all the green RPM parts I can find. Also the green caster blocks, steering blocks

    Have to figure out shocks. Should I just stay with stock shock and get green aluminum shock caps and green springs?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Aqualungs; 10-01-2018 at 07:46 AM.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Awesome I planned on using all the green RPM parts I can find. Also the green caster blocks, steering blocks

    Have to figure out shocks. Should I just stay with stock shock and get green aluminum shock caps and green springs?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There is nothing wrong with stock shocks and aluminum caps. I run them on my Slash, and use them (rears up front) on every scratch build I do because they work so well. Tons of rate options with Losi springs and everyone else who makes them. I agree with the RPM caster blocks, but I prefer stock parts for the steering, even on 10 lb. builds, just thru bolt them with a m3 button head and nylock nut on the bottom. Camber link barely fits, nothing comes loose or off that way. Heck, everything gets thru bolted and a nylock nut for that matter. Steering, links, arms...... No maintainance that way. Put in another pack and drive!!! As for green springs, spray paint solves that problem so you can get the spring rate you want.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    There is nothing wrong with stock shocks and aluminum caps. I run them on my Slash, and use them (rears up front) on every scratch build I do because they work so well. Tons of rate options with Losi springs and everyone else who makes them. I agree with the RPM caster blocks, but I prefer stock parts for the steering, even on 10 lb. builds, just thru bolt them with a m3 button head and nylock nut on the bottom. Camber link barely fits, nothing comes loose or off that way. Heck, everything gets thru bolted and a nylock nut for that matter. Steering, links, arms...... No maintainance that way. Put in another pack and drive!!! As for green springs, spray paint solves that problem so you can get the spring rate you want.
    Are you saying everything stock is already set up with the M3 camber link and nylocks, or do you have to set it up that way?

    That leads me to my next question. Finding a complete screw, bolt, nut kit. I was looking at a set of Tonyís screws for 23$ and I just need the shoulder screws and bearing kits.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    398
    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    There is nothing wrong with stock shocks and aluminum caps. I run them on my Slash, and use them (rears up front) on every scratch build I do because they work so well.
    +1. I'm yet to try rear shocks on the front yet but I have always run aluminum caps with stock plastic shock bodies. I've never once had a problem aside from some dirt inside the fluid due to a failed lower O-ring.
    Guess who's back.
    Back again.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270

    Aqualungs Slash build

    Ok so my plan to buy over time failed and I binge ordered alot..

    Iím just under 250$ and ordered everything on eBay. My list

    LCG Chassis 5831 & 5832
    STRC green aluminum shock caps, front caster blocks, steering knuckles, rear hub carrier
    Tonyís Screw Kit
    STRC hinge pin set
    RPM green A Arm set
    Traxxas new style rustler shocks
    RPM shock towers
    Proline Body Mounts
    RPM Gear box housing
    VG green progressive springs
    RPM green front bulkhead
    Traxxas vxl bellcrank servo, turnbuckles/tie rods
    Traxxas fiberglass tie bar

    Now to wait for the mail

    I am now off to research good transmission setups and slipper clutch setups that are better than stock. Any recommendations would be awesome to finish the rear end.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270


    Got quite a few parts in today, but did not get my set of Tonyís Screws. All I was able to do was change to the green aluminum shock caps. Until tomorrow!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    626
    Looks like you are off to a good start. Cant go wrong with those parts and MIP wrenches.

    What kind of power / speed are you looking for? What battery type are you wanting to stick with 2s? 3s?
    One thing I found was that after I made my slash 1/8 scale insanely fast/ strong it got heavy and was not good at certain things that it used to be good at. Seems like it is hard to be the master of all (bashing / racing / speed)

    I know the castle 3800kv is highly recommended setup on the Slash if you keep it geared for under 40mph
    It is a light motor compared to some of the larger options and will help keep the handling good on the truck.

    The traxxas differential leaves allot to be desired. I need to try some thicker fluid in it.

    -Liberty
    Last edited by LibertyMKiii; 10-18-2018 at 10:40 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    Looks like you are off to a good start. Cant go wrong with those parts and MIP wrenches.

    What kind of power / speed are you looking for? What battery type are you wanting to stick with 2s? 3s?
    One thing I found was that after I made my slash 1/8 scale insanely fast/ strong it got heavy and was not good at certain things that it used to be good at. Seems like it is hard to be the master of all (bashing / racing / speed)

    I know the castle 3800kv is highly recommended setup on the Slash if you keep it geared for under 40mph
    It is a light motor compared to some of the larger options and will help keep the handling good on the truck.

    The traxxas differential leaves allot to be desired. I need to try some thicker fluid in it.

    -Liberty
    Would like to venture into 3s and get to up to 55-60. Mostly for bashing though. I was looking at the 3800kv.

    https://ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%...2F192208530875

    This would probably be overkill

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F392143275337




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    I was looking at the Hot Racing sealed diff but not sure if itís worth it. I also read the stock diff housing works better with the RPM transmission case. Maybe someone could expand on that


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    626
    Looks like you are on the right path. Put it all together and then see if the diff upgrade is necessary. You may be happy with it as is.

    -Liberty

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    I was looking at the Hot Racing sealed diff but not sure if itís worth it. I also read the stock diff housing works better with the RPM transmission case. Maybe someone could expand on that


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No problems with Hot Racing sealed diff in RPM transmission case. Someone have luck with them, someoneís leaking.. Mine is still holding oil after 10 batteries, still testing and need ticker oil(30k is now)
    Try stock for now if you are basher.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Awesome, thanks guys, going to go with the stock diff housing


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    I think Iím going to put my sights on the Castle Creations 2560kv and start saving. Will give me waterproof esc, 3s and can move up to 4s. Iím already getting used to the 2s on my vxl Stampede so Iím going to want to get 3s batteries come spring.
    For bashing and possibly turning this into a monster slash, the 2640 will give me plenty of power.
    Iíll use a Traxxas receiver so I can use my Stampedes controller for now.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Front suspension is all buttoned up. Loving the way itís coming along and much more fun than buying it assembled.


    Just need to finish ordering the transmission parts so I can finish the rear. Gonna order bearings from Avid RC along with a Robinson pinion. Should I stick with stock tooth count?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    626
    2650 motor is very powerful. You can certainly try Robinson racing but you may need to go mod 1. I had tried and finally had to make that change on the 2200kv. It is allot of motor for that chassis...

    You may end up needing to go with GTR shocks also due to the extra weight of the motor and larger battery.
    My saying is one upgrade results in 2 others.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    2650 motor is very powerful. You can certainly try Robinson racing but you may need to go mod 1. I had tried and finally had to make that change on the 2200kv. It is allot of motor for that chassis...

    You may end up needing to go with GTR shocks also due to the extra weight of the motor and larger battery.
    My saying is one upgrade results in 2 others.
    Thanks for the advice! I will just go with the 1410 3800kv, unless thereís a better recommendation. Iím still having fun with my VXL and havenít even moved to 3s.
    Also I would have built this around the motor and for example went with big bore shocks right away. Also I read a few places big bore shocks werenít really necessary and now wish I would have done them lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    I guess Iím trying to make this one light and fast. Also consider I find my 2s Stampede fast l, but am going to want some more speed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    I've found the 2400kv Castle motors to be a nice 2wd setup.
    I run them in both my 2wd Slash rigs; just something to consider as there are many options for the truck.

    The 2400kv Castle is the same diameter as the stock motor ( maybe slightly wider with the fins) but a bit longer.
    Here's a picture of an older nonsensored motor with the rpm motor gaurd, I believe all the new ones are sensored but should still be the same dimensions
    Just my .02Ę.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,244
    3800 will get hot on 3S if youíre not careful with your gearing. I happen to agree with you about building from scratch

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I've found the 2400kv Castle motors to be a nice 2wd setup.
    I run them in both my 2wd Slash rigs; just something to consider as there are many options for the truck.

    The 2400kv Castle is the same diameter as the stock motor ( maybe slightly wider with the fins) but a bit longer.
    Here's a picture of an older nonsensored motor with the rpm motor gaurd, I believe all the new ones are sensored but should still be the same dimensions
    Just my .02Ę.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Is this the animal youíre speaking of?
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F132488415165

    Is the Velenion Motor a better choice?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Is this the animal you’re speaking of?
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F132488415165

    Is the Velenion Motor a better choice?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think I would go with the Mamba X rather then the sidewinder 4; it's more money but also a lot better system.
    The Velineon is a decent motor but the 2400kv on 3s is quite the handful as well as 4s capable if you really want to get crazy.

    https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...xoCbRcQAvD_BwE
    Last edited by billy-bones; 10-21-2018 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Added Link
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I think I would go with the Mamba X rather then the sidewinder 4; it's more money but also a lot better system.
    The Velineon is a decent motor but the 2400kv on 3s is quite the handful as well as 4s capable if you really want to get crazy.

    https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...xoCbRcQAvD_BwE
    If thatís a motor that I can bash with and race around the cul de sac, and it stays cool, then that sounds good to me. Gives me a lot power to start with and quite a bit of of upgrade options.
    I am planning on using the stock transmission. What spur gear and pinion gear should I use?
    Also I have a revo slipper clutch on my Stampede. Are you able to do the same setup?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    If that’s a motor that I can bash with and race around the cul de sac, and it stays cool, then that sounds good to me. Gives me a lot power to start with and quite a bit of of upgrade options.
    I am planning on using the stock transmission. What spur gear and pinion gear should I use?
    Also I have a revo slipper clutch on my Stampede. Are you able to do the same setup?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mine stay cool in my 2wd's.
    I personally run Robinson Racing slipper, spur and pinions (56/23 in the FLM build) in one and Team Associated 32p in the sand rig; both are 32 pitch.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270

    Aqualungs Slash build

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Mine stay cool in my 2wd's.
    I personally run Robinson Racing slipper, spur and pinions (56/23 in the FLM build) in one and Team Associated 32p in the sand rig; both are 32 pitch.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Nice! Your pics arenít coming through for some reason. May Be Tapatalk..

    I watched some videos of Slashes with that motor. Seemed like too much torque for the 2wd.. his front end was too light though. His truck lifted up and flipped at full throttle. Lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Iím probably going with 2.2 Trenchers so thereís some weight.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Nice! Your pics aren’t coming through for some reason. May Be Tapatalk..

    I watched some videos of Slashes with that motor. Seemed like too much torque for the 2wd.. his front end was too light though. His truck lifted up and flipped at full throttle. Lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    They do pull hard, a slipper adjustment will take care of any wheelies and the RR slipper does a great job.
    I can set it to carry the front end until releasing the throttle or a slight jump at launch (I don't really like wheelies) and away it goes.

    I used to run Trenchers on the front of my racing 2wd's back in the day; mixed with Bad Lands in the rear it was a beast in the dirt.
    These are old pic's and not a very good one's.
    The Truck has ProTrack suspension.
    ProLine Slash front bead locks all around.
    ProLine racing chassis.
    ProLine Power Strokes.
    Spectrum s6040 servo.
    2400kv Castle with a MMP.
    ProLine Trans with a HR machined diff and hardened idler.
    ProLine 78 (optional) tooth 48 pitch spur with a Losi 25-30 tooth (if I remember right).
    Trenchers front.
    Bad Lands rear
    STRC bulkhead.
    I'm sure I'm forgetting things since it was five years ago but it was a nice loose dirt track setup

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    Needless to say this was a ProMod race what you brought category heat truck.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 10-22-2018 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Added picture: corrected gearing numbers
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Very nice! Thanks for all the help.
    One last question, the slipper shaft and pin. Iíve read the pin is a weak point. Is there a better pin to run, or is a better shaft assembly needed?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Also, am I going to need big bore shocks or are the modded stock shocks ok? About to wrap up my second order.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F332841508036

    What do you guys think of this slipper shaft. Seems to mend the roll pin shearing issue. Does that mean something else will break?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Also, am I going to need big bore shocks or are the modded stock shocks ok? About to wrap up my second order.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Stock shocks are ok for my setup but my cc3800 is not heavy motor..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F332841508036

    What do you guys think of this slipper shaft. Seems to mend the roll pin shearing issue. Does that mean something else will break?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Looks like it would help, having a machined Layshaft gear would mean more to me then a hardened sheer pin.
    I always considered its name "Sheer Pin" and figure it's doing the job it was meant to; something has to give when to much power is applied.
    I've also heard a lot of fellas replacing the pin with a hardened drill bit, same idea tho without the machined top gear.

    Now that I'm done rambling had I seen that part five years ago I'm sure I would have purchased it, a machined gear is far more precise; this transfers to smoother power output in the end.

    After looking and reading the specks on that shaft it sounds like the only machining done was cutting the gear to fit the over sized pin.
    I could be wrong (still having morning coffee) but it seems to read that way.

    This is a factory replacement for the stock shaft that has the fragile roll pin. This has a hardened steel
    solid pin that is larger and the gear is machined with a larger slot. Gear and pin are a pressed fit.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 10-23-2018 at 06:20 AM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270

    Aqualungs Slash build

    Right. I was wondering if that pin is a good cheap failsafe.
    Meanwhile these are on my list.

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F191787011939

    Iím ordering Avid racing bearing along with a Robinson 23T pinion


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Just got my coffee. Forgot to add a link. Not sure if this little guy is necessary. Thinking I should be ok with the stock cog.
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173469014420


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    I run a couple of these, one in a 2wd Slash the other in my Scx10, no complainants here.
    I've run these as well, never had one fail but then again with the exception of my grand son running his with no grease I've had excellent luck with the stock idlers as well.
    There's nothing wrong with making something as strong as possible, tho I personally (personally being the key word) have had good luck with all the stock Traxxas Trans internals, with the exception of the the diff it self I've been sticking with Traxxas internal gears the last couple years.
    I didn't have issues with the stock differentials but preferred running sealed FLM and Hot Racing as their far more tunable.


    Not sure whats up but I'm have issue with the forum not putting quotes in quotes when I attempt it.
    Took five tries to get it done in this post.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 10-23-2018 at 09:43 AM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Haha me too. Iím going to run all stock transmission, with the Robinson slipper and pinion. More money for other parts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Haha me too. I’m going to run all stock transmission, with the Robinson slipper and pinion. More money for other parts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That's what I would do; you can always upgrade later if you chose.
    I went thru my pavement 2wd trans a few weeks ago and everything looked great.
    I went with 100,000 fluid rather then the 50,000 I was running and back together it went.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    That's what I would do; you can always upgrade later if you chose.
    I went thru my pavement 2wd trans a few weeks ago and everything looked great.
    I went with 100,000 fluid rather then the 50,000 I was running and back together it went.
    In the stock transmission? Or should I use the Traxxas grease in the kit.
    https://www.hobbytown.com/planetary-...ra2388x/p17448



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    In the stock transmission? Or should I use the Traxxas grease in the kit.
    https://www.hobbytown.com/planetary-...ra2388x/p17448



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If your going with the stock diff the grease they give you would be best; the stock differential isn't sealed so grease is about all you can use.
    There are mods to seal a stock diff (I've tried one) but imho it's easier to just upgrade to an HR sealed diff; FLM makes a good product but expensive and the HR's seem just s good.
    For the outer diff, idler and top-shaft gear I just use red wheel bearing grease, not to thick but not to thin.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •