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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Front Wheel Wells

    The next step in my belly pan/under tray experiment is front wheel wells.
    The goals have been to keep things cleaner and change the weight distribution.
    The belly pan lowers the COG wonderfully, but I still have found I need to add
    1oz. of lead in the bulkhead to help keep the front end down on 3S.
    The wheel wells will add approximately 1 oz to the front and keep dirt out too!
    Most of what ends ups in/on the truck actually comes from the front wheels.

    I was shocked at how easily this idea flowed from my mind into reality.
    I started with bristol board and a 1", 1", 2", 3" kinda plan.
    Quickly fiddled with it, a 1/4" here and a 1/2" there... honed in on a working prototype.
    Within an hour I had the brake out and was bending what you see below.
    Only a couple minor changes to the next one will make it perfect!



    I tucks under the bumper in the front. I used the body mount to help secure the wheel wells.
    This ties the body mount/shock tower to the bottom pan and chassis, really stiffens the whole rig.



    The wheel wells are bolted to the belly pan with the screws removed from the DTX rims!
    I cut some flat pieces to form the inner wheel well surface and close it all in.



    In a couple hours I'll be testing on my track to see the results and re-tuning the shocks no doubt...

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    All in all a good run. You may notice the home made 2 stage rear springs in the above picture...
    They worked well in theory and on the bench, but a bit too stiff for this rig and set-up.
    So I ended up trying stock Stampede rear springs, which work pretty good with no pre-load.

    The front end is noticeably stiffer. Also there's very little give in the 2.8 Banditos ST's.
    This made for some under steer in the bumpy areas. But I'm still happy with the front end.
    Steering in general was more predictable due to the stiffened chassis. Stiffer is better!
    I'm sure going back to the 2.2 tires will get me back that 'little bit of give" I'm craving.
    The 2.8's just don't have enough sidewall to deform/conform to the bumps and humps.
    Especially compared to the 5-years-beaten Switch tires I'm used to.
    They're soft like crawler tires now. I'm sure there's very little foam left inside lol.

    There's was no mud or dirt that made it into the battery or electronics...

  3. #3
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    As the snow flies outside I play with the digital scale I bought today, and yesterdays lexan.
    Well I was dead on with my guess. The "full frontal" aluminum wheel wells weighed 28.6g.
    It's funny because the original idea was for only "half", but the full frontal was born.
    The half style comes in at 16g. for aluminum. I tried lexan as well and it weighed 13.4g.
    I had thought before, that I needed another 1/2 oz., and I trimmed off about 1/2 an oz. of weight,
    so now it looks like I need a full oz. I really want to keep that front end from lifting...



    I usually glue an ounce of lead in the bulkhead but I went with the .999 silver skull for this one.



    The open sides simply get closed in with flat pieces.



    I like the lexan better as I dont need to worry about rolling the edges and/or cutting myself.
    I will eventually be able to grind and contour the wheel wells to the fit body contour nice and tight.
    Then I can trim the body sides to fit the wheel well openings.
    I'm going with an unpainted pro-grafix body!

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    The lexan looks clean, are you going to paint them black or somthing like that?

    Also banditos on dirt?
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    The lexan looks clean, are you going to paint them black or somthing like that?

    Also banditos on dirt?
    I'm actually going red with the Lexan. I had the paint to do the shell but procrastinated...
    Now it's too cold to do a decent job. Doesn't matter as much on the pan and wheel wells.

    Yes. Banditos on sticky, tacky hard packed dirt. They worked great!

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    I'm ready for a run in the snow. The wheel wells are complete, painted and installed.
    The 7" wide lexan belly pan comes in at 70gr. The wheel wells are 13.4gr.



    I've also completed the inner wheel wells with a small redesign...
    These panels come in at 4.8gr./each.



    The bent edges will seal the wheel wells off better...
    Just a couple screws and I'll be ready to play in the snow.



    Total weight of all the lexan is 93gr.


  7. #7
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Nice cant wait to see the body fitment.

    I guess banditos make sense on the right dirt. the proline clay tires look like slicks.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Nice cant wait to see the body fitment.
    I don't like the way it fits. 7" is just a bit too wide. The body buckles...
    I knew it would grrrr! I'll have to remake the pan. And maybe a small redesign...?
    I decided to remake the wheel wells too. I want 'Full Frontal'...(see 1st 3 pics)

    I don't want to grind the body until I'm 100% happy with the front.
    I'll do another thread for the full reveal of the finished truck I think.
    Pretty sure this one gives people the jist of the this part of the build.

    I'm still torn. Alum. is stiffer, stronger but heavier. Lexan is light but bendy.
    The alum. ones are way, way stiffer and virtually stop upper shock tower movement.
    With the lexan there is still significant stiffening of the shock towers,
    but there is some mobility in the upper shock tower area and body mount.
    I'm pretty sure the lexan will absorb/dissipate forces better than aluminum.
    I'm pretty sure going full frontal lexan will stiffen the shock towers even more.
    The Experiment continues...

  9. #9
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    Finally a day off work and fresh powder on my track.
    Proline Sandpaw 2.2's and the old, soft Switch 2.2's.



    The only drawback I ever had with the belly pan has been in the snow.
    It deflects almost all the mud kicked up by the front wheels,
    but it basically acted like a scoop in the snow, quickly filling the chassis.
    This was the number one reason for the front wheel wells...



    They did their job, keeping all but a few grams of snow out of the chassis!
    What did get in there came in around the servo. And I have an idea for that...


  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    It looks like you are having fun, keep up the good work! And thanks for sharing your adventure!!
    MTFBWY

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    It looks like you are having fun!
    I had some fun on Boxing Day doing this to my new set-up...



    New wheel wells ground nice and tight to the contour of the new shell,
    helped keep the inside of the truck looking like this! Clean and dry !!



    I've been doing some pretty insane mud runs now, with no need to worry about cleaning the interior.
    The electronics are 100% clean and dry most times! If not, it's only minor splatter.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    WOW. That is impressive. It's hard to believe how clean that looks after looking at the muddy picture...wow! Is that the lexan or aluminum version?
    MTFBWY

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    WOW. That is impressive. It's hard to believe how clean that looks after looking at the muddy picture...wow! Is that the lexan or aluminum version?
    This is Lexan. I like the weight factor and durability tests ongoing...

    Even I'm a little shocked at how good it all works, belly pan and wheel wells flush to the body.
    It does exactly what it was designed to do. Just the suspension and outer U-joints gets dirty!
    As a bonus, the weight distribution is awesome. Handling is great. I'm NEVER going back...

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