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Thread: Durable Shocks

  1. #1
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Durable Shocks

    I got my nephew a Slash 2 years ago when he was 5. He's been driving it and loving it since. I'm so glad I went hobby grade rather than a junk toy despite people telling me it was too expensive for a 5 year old. I knew he'd grow into it.

    Anyway, he finally broke it. He hit the light post at my house wide open and the shock cap popped off. I know the common fix is aluminum shock caps, but is it the most durable fix? I assume that shock would also need the body replaced since the threads are probably damaged. I know big bores are an option as are other shock brands. Proline shocks are too expensive and more than he needs, but what about Atomik or other brands?

    Thoughts on caps versus new shocks?

  2. #2
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    I donít have experience with them but i read somewhere that STRC have good aluminum bodies for stock shocks. That is one option.


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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    If you can live without pretty alloy shocks my advice would be....
    Stock shocks
    Alloy caps
    Titanium nitrided shock shafts (TiN)
    These shocks are as good as anything the same size (GTR's, etc are fatter bodied) and cheap and easy to service.
    Years ago I got alloy big bore shocks. Should've just upgraded the stockers.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Put aluminum caps on there and drive another 100k miles. Until Traxxas wants to sign him as a team driver, stockers are golden. Shocks are only as good as the valving/oil/springrate/tune setup is. Brand IMHO is irrelevant, you just need to know how to dial them in.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexsasax View Post
    I don’t have experience with them but i read somewhere that STRC have good aluminum bodies for stock shocks. That is one option.
    Thank you for the input, but I don't agree with STRC's public relations and pretty much outing the struggles of Tower Hobbies and airing that dirty laundry in public so I'll probably never buy their products again.

    If I get shock caps it'll be from Traxxas.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trentbaby65 View Post
    If you can live without pretty alloy shocks my advice would be....
    Stock shocks
    Alloy caps
    Titanium nitrided shock shafts (TiN)
    These shocks are as good as anything the same size (GTR's, etc are fatter bodied) and cheap and easy to service.
    Years ago I got alloy big bore shocks. Should've just upgraded the stockers.
    Caps and shafts are probably at least half the price of big bores, no?

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    Put aluminum caps on there and drive another 100k miles. Until Traxxas wants to sign him as a team driver, stockers are golden. Shocks are only as good as the valving/oil/springrate/tune setup is. Brand IMHO is irrelevant, you just need to know how to dial them in.
    Thanks. I do love Traxxas shocks - even the plastic kind.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
    Caps and shafts are probably at least half the price of big bores, no?
    Just as good, just as strong, half the price.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trentbaby65 View Post
    Just as good, just as strong, half the price.
    Good to know! I don't think he bent a shaft, but I will double check.

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    Agree with the above, stockers are great shocks, aluminum caps, TiN shafts and you're golden. Maybe new plastic bodies if the threads have issues (unlikely, as I'm pretty sure the cap plastic is softer and generally the failure point, not the bodies).

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    The big bores whilst are a little expensive, they are the only shock you'll ever need. For some reason they don't seem to leak like the stock shocks (which aren't bad with alloy caps). A cheap option is to ptfe tape the thread round the thread. This will stop them leaking or popping off.
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    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazee horse View Post
    The big bores whilst are a little expensive, they are the only shock you'll ever need. For some reason they don't seem to leak like the stock shocks (which aren't bad with alloy caps).
    Good to know, my ultrashocks always leaked a little, glad to hear the big bores have a tighter seal.
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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    I ordered him some aluminum shock caps. Do you guys use Teflon tape with aluminum caps on the plastic shock bodies?

    What's the weight of the oil that comes stock in the Slash shocks?

    I also ordered him a set of the Supra Sales Big-Block tires to try. His stock Slash tires were horrible even compared to the BFGs that came with my Raptor Slash.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    No teflon, bladder is the seal on the top, don't over tighten. No clue about stock oil, I don't run factory shock springs or oil.

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    No teflon, I think that stock shocks oil is 30wt.


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  14. #14
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I forgot these shocks had top bladders so I ordered a rebuild kit as well. Also ordered 30 weight shock oil from Traxxas because that seems to be standard from my research. And Traxxas 30 weight may not be equal to the competition so I wanted to keep it all the same.

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    An issue with the stock shocks that people seem to miss is the shock shafts are too long from the factory. If you take the stock shock off a new car and fully compress it, you will see that there is still a little bit of shock shaft showing. The main reason the shock caps pop off is the piston bottoms out on the shock cap & bladder. That is also the main cause of bent shafts. If you put a shock limiter on the shaft, that will solve the majority of the problems. Once you have "popped a cap" the threads will be damaged and you'll need new caps anyway, so may as well buy the aluminum ones. If you are running thick shock oil, have small piston holes, and you are getting major air on jumps you'll still pop the stock caps, and you'll need to upgrade. FYI, the Traxxas "Big bore" shock kits are the same bore diameter as most stock shocks. The GTR shocks are larger diameter than both the stock & "Big Bore" shock kits and are the better option if you are getting major air on jumps. I have cars that have aluminum shock bodies and plastic caps and have never "popped a cap", and also have cars with plastic bodies and aluminum caps that work just as well. It seems the majority of the time people have problems with shocks popping, are when both the caps AND the bodies are plastic.
    Last edited by Spharticus; 11-06-2018 at 04:26 PM.

  16. #16
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spharticus View Post
    An issue with the stock shocks that people seem to miss is the shock shafts are too long from the factory. If you take the stock shock off a new car and fully compress it, you will see that there is still a little bit of shock shaft showing. The main reason the shock caps pop off is the piston bottoms out on the shock cap & bladder. That is also the main cause of bent shafts. If you put a shock limiter on the shaft, that will solve the majority of the problems. Once you have "popped a cap" the threads will be damaged and you'll need new caps anyway, so may as well buy the aluminum ones. If you are running thick shock oil, have small piston holes, and you are getting major air on jumps you'll still pop the stock caps, and you'll need to upgrade. FYI, the Traxxas "Big bore" shock kits are the same bore diameter as most stock shocks. The GTR shocks are larger diameter than both the stock & "Big Bore" shock kits and are the better option if you are getting major air on jumps. I have cars that have aluminum shock bodies and plastic caps and have never "popped a cap", and also have cars with plastic bodies and aluminum caps that work just as well. It seems the majority of the time people have problems with shocks popping, are when both the caps AND the bodies are plastic.
    Whoah. Mind blown.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spharticus View Post
    An issue with the stock shocks that people seem to miss is the shock shafts are too long from the factory. If you take the stock shock off a new car and fully compress it, you will see that there is still a little bit of shock shaft showing. The main reason the shock caps pop off is the piston bottoms out on the shock cap & bladder. That is also the main cause of bent shafts. If you put a shock limiter on the shaft, that will solve the majority of the problems. Once you have "popped a cap" the threads will be damaged and you'll need new caps anyway, so may as well buy the aluminum ones. If you are running thick shock oil, have small piston holes, and you are getting major air on jumps you'll still pop the stock caps, and you'll need to upgrade. FYI, the Traxxas "Big bore" shock kits are the same bore diameter as most stock shocks. The GTR shocks are larger diameter than both the stock & "Big Bore" shock kits and are the better option if you are getting major air on jumps. I have cars that have aluminum shock bodies and plastic caps and have never "popped a cap", and also have cars with plastic bodies and aluminum caps that work just as well. It seems the majority of the time people have problems with shocks popping, are when both the caps AND the bodies are plastic.
    Iíve heard the big bores are slightly smaller diameter than the ultras. I have them on my P4de hand me downs from when I put GTRís on my Rustler. Iím not a huge fan as I do jump, and they bottom out too easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Iíve heard the big bores are slightly smaller diameter than the ultras. I have them on my P4de hand me downs from when I put GTRís on my Rustler. Iím not a huge fan as I do jump, and they bottom out too easily.
    If there is any difference in bore diameter between ultra's and Traxxas big bores, it is VERY minimal. The RPM 2 stage shock pistons will work on stock traxxas, Ultras, AND the Traxxas so called "big bores". So the bore diameter is close enough that the RPM pistons will work on all three of those Traxxas shocks. The RPM pistons will NOT work on Traxxas GTR, Associated big bores, or Losi Big Bores because they are actually a bigger bore. Check out the tech notes on RPM's web page.

    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/sh...med-dampening/

    I have these RPM pistons in my stock 2wd Slash, and they work wonderfully. The stock Traxxas e-clip on the top of the piston is too large to fit the RPM pistons, so you'll need to buy a "Thinner" e-clip so the 2 stage pistons float properly.
    Last edited by Spharticus; 11-08-2018 at 03:10 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    So how does the piston slide on the shaft and still keep the hole alignment? I'm not seeing the mechanics of this, so I'm guessing its similar to what the "A" brand offers. I don't get that one either, I make my own!!!

  20. #20
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    Wow I'm glad to see that people started tuning the stock shocks instead of shelling out $120 on blingy shocks and calling them "way better". I tuned my stock shocks long ago with stronger shafts, stiffer linear springs, aluminum caps and heavier oil. The results were night and day.

    I wouldn't recommend aluminum bodies and plastic caps, it may work but has greater risk of cracking the cap. Metal female thread and plastic male thread has less risk.
    El que se rie, de sus maldades se acuersa.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    With the exception of a few leaky models/brands/bad design on seals, they are all the same. Go figure.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spharticus View Post
    If there is any difference in bore diameter between ultra's and Traxxas big bores, it is VERY minimal. The RPM 2 stage shock pistons will work on stock traxxas, Ultras, AND the Traxxas so called "big bores". So the bore diameter is close enough that the RPM pistons will work on all three of those Traxxas shocks. The RPM pistons will NOT work on Traxxas GTR, Associated big bores, or Losi Big Bores because they are actually a bigger bore. Check out the tech notes on RPM's web page.

    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/sh...med-dampening/

    I have these RPM pistons in my stock 2wd Slash, and they work wonderfully. The stock Traxxas e-clip on the top of the piston is too large to fit the RPM pistons, so you'll need to buy a "Thinner" e-clip so the 2 stage pistons float properly.
    Where are you still able to buy those 2 stage shock kits???

  23. #23
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    Upgrading really depends on the purpose of the car.. Just for basic bashing then upgrading the stock shocks would be the best option.. For hardcore bashing and racing then GTR shocks or 1/8 scale shocks be had for a cheaper option.. Also Traxxas makes a 2 stage kit for the GTR shocks too if interested. Also the GTR shocks can be had for about $60 bucks off Ebay which is about the same price of the Big Bores..

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Please enlighten my as to why? Oil can get warm, viscosity may go down. The average rig weighs about 6lbs. You can tune for just about anything. Then chassis slap is figured into the equation as well so things don't bend or break. Not trying to be argumentive here, just seeking knowledge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    Please enlighten my as to why? Oil can get warm, viscosity may go down. The average rig weighs about 6lbs. You can tune for just about anything. Then chassis slap is figured into the equation as well so things don't bend or break. Not trying to be argumentive here, just seeking knowledge.
    Why what ???
    Oil may get warm but at what temp does the oil start to break down and change viscosity ??I don't know weight of common vehicles nor do I care to look it up.. IMO the size of the Slash is a 1/8 scale and should use 1/8 shocks.. The Ultra shocks might work fine once tuned but the GTR shocks are a better choice and like you suggested more oil means better temps and performance..Chassis slap might be a good thing for bashing but it still cause stress to the chassis and if not landed properly can cause breakage. Plus chassis slap cause drag slower your vehicle down in a race..
    Last edited by TorqueRanger; 11-12-2018 at 09:11 PM.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    I agree, the Slash is about 1/8 scale. Also if the chassis slaps, you scrub speed, simple physics. That said, your Slash burries the chassis at full bump, by a good 5/16"+ before squishing the SC tires. That saves bent shock shafts and broken suspension arms. AE shocks are small, 1/10 scale if you will. To truly get the best performance in the rc application, it will take 2 shocks per corner, one "valved" for compression, the other for rebound. Tuning would take a great deal of time, but the results would be incredible if you could make them fit (someone will get a UDR dialed soon enough). As for the track, I'd put my money on the truck's geometry, be it oval carpet or short course over the totally dialed shock tune, like 1:1. IMHO, out of the box, a Slash has way too much caster, but that saves on breaking parts when talent runs short. Anyhow, this is the beauty of the hobby, you find what works for you and run it until the wheels fall off, with a big smile on your face.

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    The 2 shock design is a good thought and could be made to work if you put your mind to it .. With 1/10 scale shocks the 2 stage made night & day differences with performance from what I've read .. Alot of the pro used them and not sure why RPM stopped making them.. The truck geometry needs alot of help but with time and money anything can be fixed or improved..
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    Also has anyone every tried the normal Aluminum shocks traxxas offers ???

  29. #29
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    This thread went off the deep end so fast. The OP just wants durable shocks for his nephew. Look for aluminum caps and hardened shafts if the shock body isn't damaged. If it is then I would consider big bores since they're very similar to what you have but aluminum, or GTR which are a nice design but could use upgrades right out of the box. Upgrades being aluminum caps and possibly aluminum spring retaining nuts.

    Dual shocks is overcomplicating things and comes with it's own baggage.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TorqueRanger View Post
    Where are you still able to buy those 2 stage shock kits???
    I bought them from my LHS ( local Hobby Store) but you can get them on RPM's web, or on Amazon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    So how does the piston slide on the shaft and still keep the hole alignment? I'm not seeing the mechanics of this, so I'm guessing its similar to what the "A" brand offers. I don't get that one either, I make my own!!!
    The upper and lower pistons have a notch/key arrangement that keeps the holes aligned. Only a few holes are open on the compression stroke, a lot more holes are exposed on rebound so the shock returns to neutral faster, (to be ready for the next bump.) They are great for low traction, bumpy, off-road courses. Not as good for smooth, high traction, carpet tracks.
    Last edited by Spharticus; Yesterday at 08:52 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spharticus View Post
    I bought them from my LHS ( local Hobby Store) but you can get them on RPM's web, or on Amazon.
    They where discontinued and haven't been instock for a long time hence why I asked ..

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    They were in stock on RPM's web when I posted the link. People must have bought a bunch recently. They are on Amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/RPM-Stage-Pis...+shock+pistons

    I bet it's like many other RC car parts. They guess how many parts they can sell, then buy a batch run from the plastic molding company. Once they get a new batch in, they sell out quickly and it takes some time before the plastic molding company will run another batch.
    Last edited by Spharticus; Yesterday at 09:15 AM.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trentbaby65 View Post
    If you can live without pretty alloy shocks my advice would be....
    Stock shocks
    Alloy caps
    Titanium nitrided shock shafts (TiN)
    These shocks are as good as anything the same size (GTR's, etc are fatter bodied) and cheap and easy to service.
    Years ago I got alloy big bore shocks. Should've just upgraded the stockers.
    I agree with this. Nicer parts on stock shocks. The nicer shafts and aluminum caps go a long way. New o rings while youre at it.

    The traxxas gtr are my favorites though.
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