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  1. #1
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    I found some axles that make sense.

    Firstly, I want to post a PM I sent to a member of the Traxxas community. At his request that I include the PM in this thread, I humbly present what I wrote to him:

    I am in the process of bumping my 4S E-Maxx up to 6S and will start a thread soon. I was reading about your self-lubricating bearing in the differential and was wondering if a Ceramic Bearing would get the job done as well. Ceramic nitride balls are seven times harder than your regular steel bearing balls and in retrospect, should be up to the task of 6S just like your mod.

    They say to use SIN oil for the ceramic bearings, but I pack all my bearings with grease because I'm out to bash, not set land speed records. I recently replaced every bearing in the truck, including motor bearings and steering bearings, plus I replaced the two plastic bushings in the steering with ceramic bearings as well. Basically, every bearing in the truck, is now seven times stronger than your average bearings.

    I know you are a firm believer of the fact that it is impossible to fully bullet-proof these trucks and we settle on the fact that we make them as reliable as possible within a budget that makes sense considering the parts that can and will occasionally break.

    I broke my own rule of that when I purchased the Rzeppa joint true CVD's and Rzeppa center drive shaft components today. Now, for the record, I have never in my ten years of owning Traxxas vehicles with plastic axles; ever broken one of them. Then again, I have never ran 6S before, so I saw one of your posts suggesting to upgrade the axles as being a must for 6S power.

    I'll admit, I went a little overboard with the Rzeppa axles and center axle components; but I wonder if I could have just made due with the stock plastic axles.

    In either case, I ordered both the Rzeppa and original stock drive shafts and plan to see how long the stock plastic ones last on 6S. I have punch control and plus my trigger finger is easy on the take-offs; so if the plastic shafts aren't up to the task, I wonder why they sold the 6S brushless version with plastic axles to begin with when the truck made the jump to 6S?

    If you look on Ebay, you will notice that since E-Maxx trucks (Brushed and Brushless) are now near impossible to find new, that even the used ones with slight upgrades are going for the price they sold new. I saw one guy selling a used 6S Brushless version with the original box and battery charger with used LiPo's for $300 starting bid and ended up selling it for $850.

    I have a feeling these trucks are going to start fetching a pretty penny because of their scarcity now; yet they are the trucks that have the most upgrades available of any of the Traxxas vehicle lines. Something to think about for sure.

    End of PM.

    The truck started out as a brushed vehicle and is outlined in this thread in the E-Maxx forum:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ored-Brushless

    Now onto what I found:



    Now I know that I mentioned in the PM that I was intending on using the stock axles first, but that would make this thread boring and no one wants to see stock parts being replaced with stock parts unless you have one of those first release E-Maxx brushed or brushless trucks.

    Here is a picture of my examination of the Rzeppa axles:



    Turns out, these axles are the real deal and weigh 96 grams a piece; except for the shorter center shafts, which weigh less.

    Here they are greased up and assembled:



    Now the reason I got those axles is because of curiosity and more importantly because of these 3S batteries:





    During the course of this thread, I will show the things I had to replace or upgrade in hopes of not being caught in that vicious cycle of too much weight or not enough power. It is hard to find that balance that your ESC doesn't feel over-worked or your truck under-performs in the strength department.

    For the most part, the axles and batteries are the bulk of my additional weight and I'm not out to aluminize the whole truck. I just want to get it reliable in the drivetrain department and hope for the best.

    More to follow soon...……….
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I wonder why they sold the 6S brushless version with plastic axles to begin with when the truck made the jump to 6S?
    My theory is that the original Emaxx was the twin brushless motor and single ESC version which was powered by NiMH batteries. Then when Traxxas introduced the Emaxx brushless, I think they really intended for it to be used with 4s, but that it electrically could handle 6s. If a person runs only 4s with their stock brushless Emaxx it's a very reliable truck.

    Then I think (as more and more guys went to 6s) they made upgraded parts available for the guys only wanting to use 6s with their brushless Emaxx. I think all-in-all Traxxas has been very reasonable with the evolution of the Emaxx. If Traxxas underestimated anything (IMO) they underestimated the amount of people who would only use 6s with their brushless Emaxx's. All-in-all though (IMO), it's their all round funnest truck to own...especially on 6s.

    I really like the layout of your new axles and drive shafts, and it will be interesting how well they hold up. The only potential problem I see is their use of Transient Mass Points. This is the point where the ball changes to a shaft. As with splines, they may someday develop Transient Mass Fatigue and break and twist apart at that point.

    Dog bones and diff cup wear and get sloppy, but they don't have don't develop Transient Mass Fatigue. I know what you're saying...damed if I do and damed if I don't. Unfortunately, that's how life is. There is always give and takes, and pro's and con's in every disign.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 11-10-2018 at 05:45 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I really like the layout of your new axles and drive shafts, and it will be interesting how well they hold up. The only potential problem I see is their use of Transient Mass Points. This is the point where the ball changes to a shaft. As with splines, they may someday develop Transient Mass Fatigue and break and twist apart at that point.
    Hello receiver (ReglarGuy) of my PM outlined above.

    Yes, this thread is more aimed at outlining and noting the progress of the wear rates on the components of this type of shaft. Since I run my RC's year-round and at a minimum of 7 or more hours a week, I should be able to provide a detailed analysis of what stresses out first on this type of axle and drive shaft.

    Every design I have come across for axles and or drive shafts has a weak point. With these axles and drive shafts, it is the number of components that transfer load to the next component that has me concerned. Although there is a higher number of components with these axles, the transfer of load at the critical points has a more curved than linear transfer and therefore caught my attention.

    It is kind of the same concept as spiral cut gears. Curving the teeth of the gear mesh was intended to lessen the direct load being placed on a linear axis and distributing the load at a more graduated angle that increased in increments rather than all at once. I guess this was intended to lessen the shock loads that are normally seen with straight cut gears that are more the hypoid type.

    It will be interesting to see what stresses out first with these axles.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-10-2018 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Spelling correction.
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  4. #4
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    Going over the whole truck.

    Since I'm waiting on some extra parts for the truck, I decided to pull it down to bare bones for closer inspection and cleaning of some of the ceramic bearings.







    Here is a picture of the steering components:




    I got some new Promodeler servos to use:






    Battery test fit:



    Installing more components:





    I'll try to get some more done in the coming days...………….
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-10-2018 at 05:49 PM.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Looks really good so far.
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Hello receiver (ReglarGuy) of my PM outlined above.

    Yes, this thread is more aimed at outlining and noting the progress of the wear rates on the components of this type of shaft. Since I run my RC's year-round and at a minimum of 7 or more hours a week, I should be able to provide a detailed analysis of what stresses out first on this type of axle and drive shaft.

    Every design I have come across for axles and or drive shafts has a weak point. With these axles and drive shafts, it is the number of components that transfer load to the next component that has me concerned. Although there is a higher number of components with these axles, the transfer of load at the critical points has a more curved than linear transfer and therefore caught my attention.

    It is kind of the same concept as spiral cut gears. Curving the teeth of the gear mesh was intended to lessen the direct load being placed on a linear axis and distributing the load at a more graduated angle that increased in increments rather than all at once. I guess this was intended to lessen the shock loads that are normally seen with straight cut gears that are more the hypoid type.

    It will be interesting to see what stresses out first with these axles.
    What I like about the Traxxas CV's is they're inexpensive and if you open up the diff cup slots a tad, they really wear well. That's just me though, and I have to say that I don't jump all the time with my Emaxx like you do.



    Yes, doing so introduces a slight amount of slop into the drivetrain, but they last forever even without restricting punch and crazy throttle control.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 11-11-2018 at 06:19 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    What I like about the Traxxas CV's is they're inexpensive and if you open up the diff cup slots a tad, they really wear well.

    I never thought about opening the diff cup slots up a bit; actually, I thought about closing them tighter around the dog-bones. I thought the less jerking motion you have on start-ups and take-offs would lessen the wear ratio impacts. This is one of those ideas I'll have to keep in mind, especially if you had more detailed pictures and a reference log as to how many hours you are getting out of drive cups under normal use or heavy abuse.

    When I start breaking-in my new axles and shafts on this project, I'm going to keep a record of how many hours I have on them before I start to notice some type of wear or failure. I will report in this thread religiously on the axles conditions at least every couple of months and keep a non-biased opinion about them for sake of arguments that could be misinterpreted as favoritism towards certain products.

    Oh, thanks for the compliment on the project so far!
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  8. #8
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    Good luck on the build. Always like reading about rebuilds and the different directions different people take. It always inspires new ideas!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Good luck on the build. Always like reading about rebuilds and the different directions different people take. It always inspires new ideas!
    Thank you grizzly03. There are only a couple of special features I'm adding and I'll try to keep it real as I progress through the build. I'm posting a few pictures of the body in a couple of minutes here...……..
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  10. #10
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    Finished Body!

    Not my best work, considering I could see my breath outside today when I was detailing the body!
















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  11. #11
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    Your paint job looks really good to be honest.

    Talking back about the plastic axles. I had to change mine out to the Traxxas CVDs after snapping two sets of driveshafts (front and rear centers) and breaking the universals on the drive axles several times. Keep in mind, this was all using an aftermarket 2200 KV brushless motor on two (2)cell 70c 7200MAH batteries. Therefore, I had to upgrade. The plastic just wasn't lasting. However, I like my punch control set at one or two settings below maximum.

    Moving forward, I then made the change to 5S power. I used the same batteries except I added a 3 cell pack to the 2 cell pack. I then found that the differentials werent up to the task. I rebuilt them once and the bearings failed again. Basically the diff housings were expanding under load and speed. So I switched to solid aluminum FLM diff cases with integrated bulk heads and Ofna inner diffs. I changed all my bearings to upgraded Avid bearings and then switched to 6S power.

    After these upgrades I have not had anymore drivetrain failures. I have since upgraded shocks to UE versions, shock towers to RC Monster versions, upper control arms to FLM versions and RPM lowers.

    The truck is now solid and performs well. The next upgrades will be an RC Monster aluminum chassis and will upgrade the steering servos. I am still running the factory steering servos believe it or not.

    This truck is fun for sure. Costs lots of money for good upgrades.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by laajmalek View Post
    Your paint job looks really good to be honest.

    I then found that the differentials werent up to the task. I rebuilt them once and the bearings failed again. Basically the diff housings were expanding under load and speed. So I switched to solid aluminum FLM diff cases with integrated bulk heads and Ofna inner diffs. I changed all my bearings to upgraded Avid bearings and then switched to 6S power.
    Thanks for the kind words on the paint job.

    Reglarguy that replied to this thread earlier, did an extensive study on the differentials and found that even with the plastic differential housings, there was not even negligible flexing of the housings. I remember reading a lengthy post he had, and you might want to ask him about the results.

    The plastic differential housings cannot flex or distort under load because the force is applied circumferentially and the plastic collar on the front prevents the bilateral circumferential force of the center drive shafts from separating the two plastic halves.

    I could go on and on about how I know of certain plastics that are ten times stronger than certain metals. It just comes down to how the materials are used in certain applications and Traxxas engineers were competent enough to understand that the force ratios generated in the differential housings were not significant enough to warrant using a metal grade material.

    Come to think of it, I remember reading about how Traxxas engineers wanted the differential housings to have a very little flex; but for what purpose, I cannot recall at this time. I think they wanted them to have a little flex so that they would not crack to be honest.

    As a matter of fact, if you think that it came down to cost arguments among the bean counters when it came down to the design material of choice for the differential housings, just keep in mind that some plastics are more expensive than some metal counterparts used in identical applications.

    I'm just pointing out that sometimes you have to understand the difference between bling, or whether or not a metal material is actually going to strengthen the application in which it is being used. Obviously in your case, you found the weak points and corrected them. I know how it is, one upgrade leads to another and before you know it, you have a 14 pound E-Maxx.

    Bearings failing can be remedied by switching to Ceramic grade bearings. They are designed to last three times longer than your average steel ball bearings. Also, I can't stress enough how important bearing maintenance is even if using Ceramic grade bearings. I clean and repack my ceramic bearings 4 times a year on my RC's.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-11-2018 at 11:55 PM. Reason: Additional thoughts.
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  13. #13
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    I found some axles that make sense.

    I programmed the ESC this morning:
















    Does anyone see anything in my Castle programming that should be set to a different value? I have my LiPo cutoff voltage set to 3.5v per cell (6S/6 cells) which translates to a voltage cutoff of 21v. Those are the important ones and the rest is kind of personal preference stuff.

    I should be able to finish this project up by tonight.

    On the "Start Power" setting:



    What should I have that set to? The description is kind of vague other than it mentioning a bunch of "ifs" concerning if you have high quality batteries. I've never messed with that setting and never had a problem with it set to low. It's in the power settings tab (4th picture down from the beginning of post) above.

    I think low is best for the E-Maxx Brushless, because my vehicle is not a race vehicle or rock crawler and that is what the medium and high settings are for according to the description.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-26-2018 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Image fix
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  14. #14
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    I've never changed the start power,like you I just bash and never felt the need. 3.5v is where mine is set also, I would rather lose a few minutes of runtime than take a chance hurting the batteries. Nice paint job, I like the two tone

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    3.5v is where mine is set also, I would rather lose a few minutes of runtime than take a chance hurting the batteries. Nice paint job, I like the two tone
    Yes, I would never set mine as low as 3.2v per cell. I like the fact the Mamba Monster X allows me to set it at 3.5v.

    I'm just wondering if having the cutoff voltage set to 21v overrides the 3.5v setting per cell. In other words, would the ESC shut down at 21v or when 3.5v per cell is reached? It's possible to drop to 21v but the cells would be unevenly discharged because I've never come across an ESC that drains batteries perfectly evenly.

    I'm not really that worried about it though, because years of experience has taught me to notice a drop in throttle response means it's time to bring it in before LVC kicks in.

    Thanks for the feedback on the paint job!
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  16. #16
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    I would believe it's 21v(or what LVC is set at).An esc wouldn't be able to tell individual cell voltage, only through balance plugs like when charging. If they made an ESC where you could plug in balance plugs that would be awesome, it could detect first cell to reach set limit. That's why I turn LVC up, little extra insurance for the uneven discharge,especially with older packs.

  17. #17
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    When I first got the Emaxx (same setup as yours but MM2) I had looked at the rzeppa shafts and to purchase here in Canada it's roughly 340.00 for all 6 with shipping.
    I settled on the Traxxas cvd's and have only broken 1 rear drive cup and 2 dog bone pins which I replaced with the bottom shank of drill bits of the same diameter.
    I have gone back to just running 4s not because the truck can't handle 6s but my driving style with 60 ft cartwheels and lack of self control (hitting imoveable objects).
    I have been using ReglarGuy's diff mod and made it through 64 pks before I lost 2 teeth in my rear ring gear but believe that was due to not keeping up on maintenance.
    The front bearing in the rear diff had let go and caused the pinion to shift. I like what your doing and I'm most interested in how the ceramic bearings will hold up.
    Using the telemetry I set my alarms for 14.4v (4s) just to make sure I don't get to low and my esc like yours at 3.5 per cell and have never had a pack over discharge if this helps.
    I have just recently installed Traxxas spiral cut gears in both diff's and have only managed 1/2 a dozen runs so far but it's night and day compared to stock diff's.
    The truck is smoother and has a different feel to it while bashing and I highly recommend them.

    Looking forward to more on both of your threads on the Emaxx, awesome truck to bad it's been discontinued.

  18. #18
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    Finished the Project!

    Thanks for the replies and interest in my thread. Here are my finishing pictures and I might need two posts to do it!

    First I was waiting on these parts:





    Then I had to change an output shaft in my transmission:





    Switch out some tires from the 5.75's to the 6.3's:






    Rebuild the differentials:




    Put together the front and rear end:






    Test the new servos:




    Check the underside alignment:




    Enjoy an overhead view:




    Continued in the next post...…….
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  19. #19
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    Orange Lightning!

    And finally, here it is:























    I should get to try it out soon and it has been a pleasure sharing this project.

    Thanks to all!
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-14-2018 at 04:01 AM. Reason: Added the rival!
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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Turned out good. I also like your hi-tech work stands. (lol)
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Turned out good. I also like your hi-tech work stands. (lol)
    Hey, those are hi-tech display stands, not work stands! It took me a long time to find that scrap wood.

    About two whole seconds—-LoL.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-14-2018 at 03:36 PM. Reason: Fixed post
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  22. #22
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    Over the last two days, I have got one hour and 35 minutes of run time on the axles. I was just concerned if they would make it past the one hour mark. Usually, if axles are going to let loose, they do it in the first hour or less in my experience of trying out different brands of shafts.

    Sometimes a grub backs out and if your lucky, it will make a slight clicking sound on something so you can catch it in time before it falls all the way out. I have had that with other axles and I don't chance it anymore, so I use the high strength Loctite® and everything is usually fine.

    After I reach 8 hours on the axles, I'm going to disassemble them and take pictures to expose any wear that is evident and post the results. I expect some wear, and I'm going to be particularly interested to see how the slot the balls ride in has worn.

    I'm keeping accurate logs of exactly how many minutes each run is and recording it in a log sheet.
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  23. #23
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    I have a follow-up on the axles.

    Here are the minutes I logged on the new axles:




    This is the type of wear I did not expect so early; especially since I have the punch control set to its mildest setting:







    Needless to say, these axles are going straight back to where I got them from. For the eight hours I used them, the wear is far in excess of what I would have expected from such expensive axles. The material in the splined ball section dented like it was made of soft copper or something.

    They did not fail, but in all honesty; they sure look like they have hundreds of hours of abuse - not eight hours. I had those axles packed with the best grease money can buy, and yet they show wear that is comparable to running this type of axle dry.

    At this point, it doesn't make sense; well the idea or concept of the axle makes sense, but it is apparent that the materials used in the splined ball need to be addressed.

    However in fairness, this is what the cup section looked like:



    The cup faired relatively well compared to the splined ball and showed very little wear.

    In the meantime, I put the plastic axles on and will record the minutes logged on those as well. If the plastic axles fair better than these Rzeppa axles did, I'm gonna be left scratching my head!
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  24. #24
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    since you already have the RPM knuckles, i would suggest boring them out to accept a larger bearing...with this you can run LST axles which are all over ebay for cheap and are pretty bullet proof.

    there are a few links on the how-to

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray4624 View Post
    since you already have the RPM knuckles, i would suggest boring them out to accept a larger bearing...with this you can run LST axles which are all over ebay for cheap and are pretty bullet proof.

    there are a few links on the how-to

    The RPM carriers have a 12x21x5 for the inner bearing and a 6x15x5 for the outer bearing. How much bigger of a bore are we talking and which bearing bore is bored out - the inner or outer or both?
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I'd go for the Traxxas CV's. With the Traxxas CV's you do have to change the diff cups every so often, and I do bend one every now and again. But the parts are inexpensive and easy to replace. No matter what you get you're going to have wear, but you want to make keeping the maintenance up as easy and as inexpensive as you can. That's my philosophy anyway.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    No matter what you get you're going to have wear, but you want to make keeping the maintenance up as easy and as inexpensive as you can.

    I'm starting to get that impression. If the steel mills of the 80's were still around when they cared about the quality of their products, I think we would see a lot less complaining on these forums about expensively overpriced overseas cheap (imitation) steel failing all of the time.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-27-2018 at 02:39 PM. Reason: fixed error
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  28. #28
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    I agree, but I'm going to have to bite my tongue on that one. I lived though that period, and I would have to get, what some might think, political to explain how that all came about. Someday, if our paths ever cross, we can have a good discussion about it over lunch...my treat! (lol)
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I agree, but I'm going to have to bite my tongue on that one. I lived though that period, and I would have to get, what some might think, political to explain how that all came about. Someday, if our paths ever cross, we can have a good discussion about it over lunch...my treat! (lol)
    Everyone who grew up or lived through the transition of everything leaving this country that made the U.S. truly number 1, knows that it had everything to do with politics. I'll bite my tongue twice as much as you; but I won't continue to sit idly by as my money leaves my pocket and pretend that I don't know for a fact that steel was once very high quality and wasn't re-melted down and remixed with lesser grade materials to finish the product and pass it off as true steel.

    You would be astounded at how many grades of steel or titanium there are and the garbage filler the overseas countries add to the finishing process, that leave the consumer guessing without a metallurgical analysis of the material, to actually have any idea or inkling as to what they actually bought.

    Everything in the last 7 to 10 years that I have bought, is pretty much junk or disposable. The only thing I have bought in the last ten years that is true metal material, is MIP hex bit drivers.
    They truly are made of the stuff I remember from long ago. I'm tired of metal objects crumbling, marring or bending too easily to any type of normal use. That is far as I will go before I stretch my reply into a political statement because I'm upset and disgraced with people thinking it is O.K. to have disposable products. They (end product) use to last 10 years or more before any type of problems occurred or maintenance was needed; not anymore.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 12-01-2018 at 04:51 PM. Reason: added frustrative comments
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  30. #30
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    AMEN BROTHER!! Wish they would truly and HONESTLY Make America Great Again!!!
    I also agree with the above post about the Traxxas CVD’s. I have a set for my erevo and they have stood up to some major abuse as I ran only 6s on them. The drive cups will wear with time, but as said they aren’t expensive to replace.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 222 View Post
    AMEN BROTHER!! Wish they would truly and HONESTLY Make America Great Again!!!
    I also agree with the above post about the Traxxas CVD’s. I have a set for my erevo and they have stood up to some major abuse as I ran only 6s on them. The drive cups will wear with time, but as said they aren’t expensive to replace.
    I got this "Rocket" hammer that was given to me by my Grandfather on my mothers side. He use to work for the railroad and built and rebuilt the locomotives on the turn-arounds.
    He used that hammer just about every day he said.

    It is a claw hammer believe it or not and it is truly the best hammer I have in my arsenal. I can walk up to a 3/4 inch steel safe wall and smack it with the "Rocket" hammer and it won't reverberate up the handle and hurt my hand.

    I can smack nails out of wood by the points all day long and the head won't mar, scratch or dent on that "Rocket" hammer.

    I bought a new hammer recently, and when I smacked an 8 common nail in, it dented the new hammer on the first hit. I can drive 8 common nails in two hits and sometimes it takes three if I hit a knot in the wood.

    I couldn't believe the first hit and I look at the head of the new hammer and it has an indentation of the round 8 common nail head imprinted on the so-called steel-iron head of the hammer.
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  32. #32
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    Things just aren’t made the way they used to be that is for sure! Hate to say it, but it’s the truth. Everything is now produced in either China or India!!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 222 View Post
    Things just aren’t made the way they used to be that is for sure! Hate to say it, but it’s the truth. Everything is now produced in either China or India!!
    It isn't just that, our manufacturers here in the states have adopted the same principles of how other countries produce their imitation steel. A company here in the U.S. buys raw steel billets or rolls (wherever they can get them cheapest) and melts them down so they can add non-steel materials to the newly re-melted batch so it produces a higher yield count on the end product per raw steel billet or roll bought.

    In other words, greed destroyed how products are produced these days. If manufacturers just cared (that is all it takes; to just care again) our products would improve again. Instead, you have corporations forcing employees to remanufacture the steel so that it goes a longer run in the production stage and they save money and raise the price to us who supposedly unknowingly buy this imitation steel. Since they don't necessarily need huge blast furnaces to re-melt steel anymore, they found it economical to rip the customer off while saving money because they can produce a higher yield from less raw steel.

    Heck, if they tried to sell me a glass of water, they probably would ask if I wanted an extended warranty on the ice.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 12-01-2018 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Correction
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    I know I have a set for my older emaxx and they are rock solid. Never had one bend or break. I can’t remember where I got them it’s been so long ago. I’ll have to do some digging as my emaxx is put up somewhere due to the old Novak ESC being trashed.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    The RPM carriers have a 12x21x5 for the inner bearing and a 6x15x5 for the outer bearing. How much bigger of a bore are we talking and which bearing bore is bored out - the inner or outer or both?
    inner = 15x24x5 flanged
    outer = 8x16x5

    still plenty of meat on the knuckles

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray4624 View Post
    inner = 15x24x5 flanged
    outer = 8x16x5

    still plenty of meat on the knuckles
    Thanks for the follow-up. This is good to know that the knuckles can be bored out that much bigger and still have some strength. I'm currently keeping a log with the hours put on the plastic shafts for comparison purposes to my previous flop in choice of axles.

    I sent them back and got my refund with no problems from the seller. For the ones who were interested in the ceramic bearings and how they hold up compared to the self lubricating bushing mod in the differential; I will try to accurately show the log for the hours on those as well.

    Also, I'm having trouble finding the LST axles that are telescopic and are 180mm in length while compressed. I imagine I have a few millimeters to fool around with, but they cannot be longer than 180mm compressed.

    Bear in mind, this is with the punch control set to the mildest punch level of 100%. If you click on the question mark in the Castle link settings for "Power", you will see that the higher the setting for punch, the calmer the power will be applied to the drivetrain.

    People tend to look at your punch control settings in Castle-link and see 100%, and think that means a bigger punch; which it does not. I disabled it one time, and there was no way to keep the front wheels on the ground with the Castle 1515 1Y Sensored motor I have in it. Even at 50%, it was insane, so I put it at 100%.

    The braking power is incredible too with this motor. I had to tame that quite a bit also to keep it from forward flipping the truck.

    For a matter of fact, it is very hard to get the Castle motor I have in it because I haven't seen it available for the last six months anywhere.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 12-05-2018 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Added info.
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    i doubt youll find telescopic axles for the lst in the length required.

    I just use the standard 1 piece axles (oem not rd logics)
    For fitment, i had small spacers made to go behind the hex (standard losi as well) to prevent the bearing from working its way out on the knuckle.

    Another option is to drill another hole in the stub axle to put the hex in the correct spot up against the bearing.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray4624 View Post
    i doubt youll find telescopic axles for the lst in the length required.

    I just use the standard 1 piece axles (oem not rd logics)
    For fitment, i had small spacers made to go behind the hex (standard losi as well) to prevent the bearing from working its way out on the knuckle.

    Another option is to drill another hole in the stub axle to put the hex in the correct spot up against the bearing.

    Understood. I'm pretty good at fabricating and coming up with ideas to make things work. I first want to see how long my current setup is going to hold up before I make long-term decisions that affect short-term decisions about commonly replaced parts.

    I appreciate your follow-up. Sometimes, someone makes a suggestion and they never answer any questions to their own suggestions; so to you, my hat is off to your replies and consistency of explanations.

    In other words, I appreciate the fact that you use a setup you're actually suggesting instead of just throwing stuff out there for sake of just getting a post count up.
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