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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Are upgrade driveshafts cost effective? Shortvslong term pros and cons.

    I had my online shopping cart ready with the parts needed to put xo1 axles in just the rear of my slash and i got thinking. With the 17mm adapters and hubs i need we're looking at about 125 for xo1 axles and 90ish for mip xduty with 17mm hex. Thats the cost of 12(or almost 9 mip) of the new style 6852a "exteme duty" rear shafts. I havent run these yet so its hard for me to see the value in that. Ive got a pair ariving soon just to try them out.

    (Again talkingnjust the rear)
    Howeveerrrrrr, $125 can get you 40, 20 pairs, of the 6853x axle stubs. This is the previous rout i went last time. It takes like 2 minutes to unscrew the hub take off the wheel and pop on a new stub axle once you get the hang of it.

    Now with big power or big tire you dont really have a choice but to upgrade. However with stock tire or buggy tires that are even lighter some poeple dont kill axles. I get usually ten is runs before a stub pops and 4/5 its was from a hopeless back flip attempt or some other crash, not torque twist. At that rate 40 hubs would last me a wile but for sake of discussion if I go nuts and break 2 a week thats still almost 5 mounths of axles stubs

    Would a set of x duties or xo1shafts last 5 months? Most likely, some people get years out of them. But there are a few things to consider.

    First is crash damage. even with the high end steel used in the upgrades, a 30 or 40 mph cartweel is going to stress out your axles. Big jumps too. Yes you can replace parts and get rebuild kits, but that added expense can get more plastics. Some times the mip devolope major cracks, a side effect if the heat treatment, usually bad luck but if you read enough reveiws all the hop up driveshafts have premature failure all the time, even mip.

    Another thing to consider is the messy stuff, sand, mud, rain, snow. I live in new England my rigs get wet and messy. The plastic shafts are almost uneffected, almost. Take em off, empty out and trapped dust or sand, maybe clean em if theyre sticky. The sand, dirt, and moisture really effect steel shafts and cleaning is a must. The dirt will grind down the parts and the water will corrode.

    To anwere my question, most of the time, expensive shafts are cost effective most of the time. If you keep your steel shafts maintained, then yeah, good upgrade. Like i said some people get years. But its not a guaranty. Its not 100% that steel shafts are the best option for your setup.

    Just some bored at work thinking of mine. Hopefully some of you are bored enough to read that. Discussion anyone?
    Last edited by IanRose; 11-13-2018 at 01:38 PM.
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I will put this in my perspective for you. I have been running the same set of MIP X-Duty axles since 2011! They still are in use and get driven hard often. In my opinion that is money well spent. I have been running Traxxas CV axles since September. They are still rock solid! They do their job. Even with students driving the truck! You are the one who has to make the choice
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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    How much power is in your truck? If the stockers are a non-issue now, why rock the boat? If you twist up the plastic ones, thats another thing. I have a one off crawler I buillt that uses front Slash 4x steering and axle parts. I break plastic front axle parts EVERY time I run the truck, I'm working on plan B for them. You could always to the 6mm diff deal in another thread here and cut down E-Revo axles to fit the rear. You can get (I think they are 11-6-4) bearings to fit the uprights. You will be hard pressed to break those because there isn't enough drive shaft angle to kill them, and they take mega power. Gives you something else to think about option wise, and cheap to rebuild.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    I've also been running the same set of MIP X-duty CVDs since 2011. I recently got a 2nd set and was able to compare them to the used set. For being so old, the older set does have some wear and tear, they are slightly "looser" now, as in a bit more play, but still in pretty much perfect condition. I've only ever had the MIPs fail once, during a very bad cartwheel when the tire snapped off. I've never had a failure since then.



    You are right in that it is a matter of pros and cons.

    The one thing I hate about the MIP CVDs is their intolerance for water (they rust badly). You can mitigate that with grease, but that collects dirt and debris much faster. With enough maintenance, constant cleaning, and re-applying new grease you can make it work in wet conditions, but it's a pain. I've pretty much just given up and only run my trucks in dry conditions.

    The thing I really don't like about the plastic shafts is how it always seems like it's just a matter of time until they break. It's rare to see a car where the stubs and/or yokes aren't at least partially ovaled out unless we're talking about a brand new car. Being a conservative driver, only using 2S, etc, helps of course, but I just don't like feeling that you are "wearing out" your car just via normal usage. I want to be able to go on a week-long camping trip, bash on extreme terrain the entire time, and have reasonable confidence that I won't have any (certainly not repeated) failures just due to weak plastic pieces. Maintenance is generally something I prefer to do after I get back home, not while i'm still on the camping trip (or wherever).



    But yeah, a good compromise is to just get heavy duty CVDs for the rear. At least then, absolute worst case scenario, if you use up all your spare plastic parts for the front, you can always remove the remnants and the center shaft, use it as a 2WD vehicle with just the rear CVDs. Fronts don't usually oval out as much because they aren't making as firm contact with the ground when you mash the throttle (assuming that is the primary cause of your CVD stress, which in many cases it is).

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I will put this in my perspective for you. I have been running the same set of MIP X-Duty axles since 2011! They still are in use and get driven hard often. In my opinion that is money well spent. I have been running Traxxas CV axles since September. They are still rock solid! They do their job. Even with students driving the truck! You are the one who has to make the choice
    Yeah when properly taken care of those x-duties last years.
    I hear such mixed things about traxxas CVs. Id like them to be good becase then i could grab a pair and wouldnt need the hubs or hexs of the x01.


    I have a good amount of nitro revo axles i could try and shove in there too, perhap xo1 bearing carrier with the 6mm bearings will help.

    Im just running stock power but on buggy tires the axles actually last a lil bit, but not great. I think the rustler axles will hold down the front. The back flips seem to put it all on the rear end.
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    As soon as I went 3s the stockers showed their weakness even with stock tires. It wasn't just stubs either. After spending $40+ on replacements it started to get old. At the time(a few years back)I could buy a complete set of 4 MIPs for a tick over $90 delivered to my door. Bought them, installed them and haven't touched them since. I have since upgraded to 1/8th scale power, 2.8 Trenchers and occasional 4s packs. The MIPs have not even flinched. I live in WI and run all year in wet,snow, salt etc. Blow them dry and spritz with WD...done.
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  7. #7
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    As soon as I went 3s the stockers showed their weakness even with stock tires. It wasn't just stubs either. After spending $40+ on replacements it started to get old. At the time(a few years back)I could buy a complete set of 4 MIPs for a tick over $90 delivered to my door. Bought them, installed them and haven't touched them since. I have since upgraded to 1/8th scale power, 2.8 Trenchers and occasional 4s packs. The MIPs have not even flinched. I live in WI and run all year in wet,snow, salt etc. Blow them dry and spritz with WD...done.
    Heck maybe ill try some xduties and try keep them clean. Any 17 adapters that work and are less then $35? I have hr racing adaptors, i dont think they would work on the mip, they dont habe the pin?
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Hot Racing adapters work great. Slide right over 12mm hex and done!
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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Mine dont use the hex, they use the pin.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    I run these on keyed MIP X-duty shafts. They slide over the 12mm hex and are held on the axle with the barrel nuts.Your MIPs must be old if they still use the pin,that was changed before I got mine(at least 3 yrs ago) because it was found to be a weak link(like any shaft that uses a pin through the stub)

    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=WH17HS01;c=480

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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    No, my hr adapters use the pin. So I cant use them on xduty.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    No, my hr adapters use the pin. So I cant use them on xduty.
    For $35 you could get the new hot racing adapters.


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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Yeah when properly taken care of those x-duties last years.
    I hear such mixed things about traxxas CVs. Id like them to be good becase then i could grab a pair and wouldnt need the hubs or hexs of the x01.


    I have a good amount of nitro revo axles i could try and shove in there too, perhap xo1 bearing carrier with the 6mm bearings will help.

    Im just running stock power but on buggy tires the axles actually last a lil bit, but not great. I think the rustler axles will hold down the front. The back flips seem to put it all on the rear end.
    To be honest with you, I haven't preformed any maintenance to my MIP axles. Granted, I don't run in water too often and never in mud. The last thing I did to them was put keyed axles on them years ago.
    The Traxxas CV axles, I try to make sure that the boots stay relatively clean. The boots are still very supple and malleable. I have been pretty surprised with them. I read a lot of negative comments about them. So for none of it is true.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    To be honest with you, I haven't preformed any maintenance to my MIP axles. Granted, I don't run in water too often and never in mud. The last thing I did to them was put keyed axles on them years ago.
    The Traxxas CV axles, I try to make sure that the boots stay relatively clean. The boots are still very supple and malleable. I have been pretty surprised with them. I read a lot of negative comments about them. So for none of it is true.
    I can second this; I have no complaints with my MIP's, very strong axles.
    I also have nothing bad to say about my Traxxas CVD's; they've taken 6s power in my PF8 without hesitation.
    As for all out strength I'm confident the MIP's would win; for looks and strength together Traxxas are the better choice IMHO.
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  15. #15
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    So the boot holds a pin in, that boot can become damaged and then the pin falls out, thats the main problem im reading? I feel like thats solvable, maybe glue, maybe some rubber tube...
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  16. #16
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Why don't you try the new Rustler 4x4 driveshafts?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Why don't you try the new Rustler 4x4 driveshafts?
    I am. But i think ill stil need steels in the back eventually.
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  18. #18
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    I broke the stock rear axle on my rustler 4x4. So I bought the traxxas slash hd cvds and broke a front one on the first run after coming down from an unstable wheelie. So don't know which is better. A broken $8 axle that took 20+ runs or a $70 axle that only lasted one

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    I need another front and rear set of MIP axles myself (probably). But they are up to $72 now just for one set. Never tried the Traxxas steel axles. They are $80 for one set.

    SO you have a good point. $80 will buy a lot of plastic.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    To be honest with you, I haven't preformed any maintenance to my MIP axles. Granted, I don't run in water too often and never in mud. The last thing I did to them was put keyed axles on them years ago.
    The Traxxas CV axles, I try to make sure that the boots stay relatively clean. The boots are still very supple and malleable. I have been pretty surprised with them. I read a lot of negative comments about them. So for none of it is true.

    Have you or anyone tried the Proline HD axles recently? I wonder if they have improved their product any? Seen some so-so reviews on them.

    Proline HD Axle Set
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 11-18-2018 at 12:42 AM.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-fanatic View Post
    I broke the stock rear axle on my rustler 4x4. So I bought the traxxas slash hd cvds and broke a front one on the first run after coming down from an unstable wheelie. So don't know which is better. A broken $8 axle that took 20+ runs or a $70 axle that only lasted one
    Exactly. Did you judt break the stub? Those are replaceable about $8.


    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    Have you or anyone tried the Proline HD axles recently? I wonder if they have improved their product any? Seen some so-so reviews on them.

    Proline HD Axle Set
    the proline look very simalar to the traxxas but harder to get parts for. Usually the traxxas sell for around 70. The msrp for the mip never changed, the company probably posted a minimum price. Thats becoming a common thing for rc distro lately.

    Im trying the rustler axles. I got the traxxas cvd ones too to try. I want to see if i have boot problems and if i can solve it. Ive been puting rc parts onto paypal credit so im in the mood to try stuff. It just seems like less when you lump it with the rest of the monthly bills haha.
    Last edited by IanRose; 11-18-2018 at 08:52 AM.
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  22. #22
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I forgot to add the pics showing the old plastic 6852x to 6852a thicker shafts. I got some 6852r metal shafts and theyre going good. But I really think these 6852a might run good so i got a full set to do some 3s running! Plus some tbone bumpers and diff repair to do.

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  23. #23
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    XO-1's (axles & hubs) run 15-degrees cooler than next best 'aftermarket' option (non-Traxxas btw) because they run more balanced than any other. I've made it over a year on the same hub bearings (2years of use racing/practicing/bashing with 8000mah packs). Plus they are the lowest hub heights achievable (increasing ground clearance & improving suspension geometry). 2.5-years later the CV joints aren't even showing any sign of wear (high bite turf and high bite loamy/sandy clay). All I do is replace the rubber boots every 2-2.5yrs with their rebuild kits (the rubber eventually cracks).

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Xo1 axles are ideal. Big bearings like the tekno, also gives it a thicker axle stub. Rated for 6s use, strong. But then they still have the rubber boots to keep it clean.

    Im sticking with traxxas metal shafts after my plastic testing(unless these end up working great) Might do slash size trx cvd in front, xo1 sized in rear.

    The rustler hd shafts held up fine for me today, below 30 degrees so the plastic was weak, held 3s wheelies down my whole street. Still too soo to see how well they worked.

    A guy on youtube claimed the new olasric shafts are actually worse then the old. Siting the the manufacturing processe put a weak spot when the u joint thing is put in. We shall see. So far they seem better... I broke old shafts on 2s often and now im o 3s.
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  25. #25
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    I am. But i think ill stil need steels in the back eventually.
    I went with just the rear set of the Traxxas CVD's this time instead of the MIP x-duty. Running stock motor, and no plans to upgrade to 15xx series motor. Maybe a Mamba X and 14xx 2400kv\5mm one day, once my 3500kv quits.

    On 3S, the fronts axles still look fine...but I see the rears starting to twist, so time for my Ultimate to get its first upgrade.
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 12-17-2018 at 01:44 AM.

  26. #26
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    I’ve busted over 20 outdrives, and maybe even over 30 on my rc’s. I put cvd’s from GPM on my Stampede 4x4 which has run on a 3s with many different motors, tires, etc. They haven’t busted yet! They were about $30 a pair. I have no complaints besides not coming with directions, but anyone can figure out how to put them together in five seconds. I’ve done standing double backflips with these, ran into trees and done triple backflips, and really beaten the crap out of the truck. I’d try those out if I were you.
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  27. #27
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    My 3s plastics testing been going good. Only on pack 5 but Ive really stepped up the hard driving. First runs where all wheelies, last few packs have been big jumps. No signs of torque twist, and no worries when crash landing from an average jump of like 15 feet up 100 feet long.

    I think plastic bmx pegs might be an analogy of what im trying to find. https://www.sourcebmx.com/Mobile/en/...s/m-c-533.aspx Most bmx riders will pay more for plastic pegs that last a few months over steel pegs that last years. And thats only for the low friction aspect. The new oversized traxxas plastic drive shafts are very smooth, almost frictionless.

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  28. #28
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Broke a hex pin. Driveshafts seem fine though. Might go back to 12mm hex, these 17mm seem to create more problems that I didnt even have the first place with normal hex.

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  29. #29
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    Are upgrade driveshafts cost effective? Shortvslong term pros and cons.

    Quote Originally Posted by EvHexRC View Post
    Iíve busted over 20 outdrives, and maybe even over 30 on my rcís. I put cvdís from GPM on my Stampede 4x4 which has run on a 3s with many different motors, tires, etc. They havenít busted yet! They were about $30 a pair. I have no complaints besides not coming with directions, but anyone can figure out how to put them together in five seconds. Iíve done standing double backflips with these, ran into trees and done triple backflips, and really beaten the crap out of the truck. Iíd try those out if I were you.
    I'm revising my statement. I've run into a problem with these... The wheelhexes keep sliding back onto the stub axles towards the hubs. Don't buy these. I should've listened to my own advice, which is "buy super cheap from china, buy twice." I'll be trying mip xduty's when I feel like spending $ on any of my traxxas trucks again.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-04-2019 at 03:07 PM.
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