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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Grips Belt Drive Completed

    So I got the 207 length belt today. Iíve got several other sizes of belts and several other pulleys on the way. Right now itís 35/48 pulleys 15mm belt and 16mm pulleys. First attempt was the input shaft pulley spun on the shaft way too easily. I took it apart made a flat spot on the shaft and used the shear pin hole as another anchor point. Loctite is drying now.
    I also replaced one of my motor fans, smoothed my plate edges and ran the wires through the plate.



  2. #2
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    Looking good! Are you using 5M HTD5M gears and belt?

    Can you get a shot of it from the back of the truck illustrating the clearances between the two gears?

    Im digging that fan setup! I am trying something new with mine using a radial fan, depending how that pans out I might switch later to something like what you did here...

    -Liberty
    Last edited by LibertyMKiii; 11-16-2018 at 08:33 PM.

  3. #3
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    Grips Belt Drive Completed


    Gonna Down the spur size I think. A few pulleys on the way now. Interested to see speeds from this setup. It sounds absolutely awesome.

  4. #4
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    So just out of curiosity how do you adjust your tension? Im running a 30 pinion on mine and ended up drilling a hole in it to tighten my motor screws but if I ever go smaller im not sure how I'd tighten them

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakvad View Post
    So just out of curiosity how do you adjust your tension? Im running a 30 pinion on mine and ended up drilling a hole in it to tighten my motor screws but if I ever go smaller im not sure how I'd tighten them
    At work all of our robots are belt drive. What I noticed is only one of the wheels will have the "walls" (not sure what the term is) on the pulley to keep the belt centered. Typically the second pulley does not (unless its spanning a long distance)

    Im thinking you could grind off the "wall" facing the back differential on the pinion pulley. This way you can figure out the belt tension, lock the motor in position and then still be able to slip the belt back on. The spur pully with both walls would hold the belt alligned. Also be carefull not to load too much tension on the belt or it will cause pre-mature bearing failure (same thing happens on cars with alternator/PS/AC belts). Unlike traditional metal to metal gears these have 6+ teeth in contact with the belt versus 2ish on metal to metal gears.

    -Liberty

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    At work all of our robots are belt drive. What I noticed is only one of the wheels will have the "walls" (not sure what the term is) on the pulley to keep the belt centered. Typically the second pulley does not (unless its spanning a long distance)

    Im thinking you could grind off the "wall" facing the back differential on the pinion pulley. This way you can figure out the belt tension, lock the motor in position and then still be able to slip the belt back on. The spur pully with both walls would hold the belt alligned. Also be carefull not to load too much tension on the belt or it will cause pre-mature bearing failure (same thing happens on cars with alternator/PS/AC belts). Unlike traditional metal to metal gears these have 6+ teeth in contact with the belt versus 2ish on metal to metal gears.

    -Liberty
    Problem is my pinion is so big it completely covers motor adjustment screws, even going down 10 teeth they would be covered. I'll take pictures when I get home in the morning of the holes I drilled.


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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    How much does something like that cost?
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakvad View Post
    Problem is my pinion is so big it completely covers motor adjustment screws, even going down 10 teeth they would be covered. I'll take pictures when I get home in the morning of the holes I drilled.


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    My pinions do also on my metal to metal gear setup. I snug one motor height screw enough where it stays put but will pivot. Then I set the mesh and gently slide the gear back off to tighten the other screw. Then slide the gear back on... same concept with a belt but would need the ability to slip the belt on. (Solution is take the outer pinion wall off) I doubt the belt has enough stretch to go over it.

    I have been considering making a video for this, since it's a bit tricky.

    I need to make a motor mount for the xmaxx that solves this problem. Like how the x01 mount works adjusting from one of the sides where there is plenty of space.
    Last edited by LibertyMKiii; 11-17-2018 at 05:34 AM.

  9. #9
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    Yup that's how I've been doing it also. Actually I haven't had to reset my belt since I put it on but I was launching 30 ft in the air doing backflips and the motor set screw slipped and loosened up. So I just pulled it all apart. Took the opportunity to make some shim plates and drill holes in the pinion.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakvad View Post
    So just out of curiosity how do you adjust your tension? Im running a 30 pinion on mine and ended up drilling a hole in it to tighten my motor screws but if I ever go smaller im not sure how I'd tighten them

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    I will use different belts, I also have the Kershaw design motor mount(lots of adjustability). So I had the spur and pinion off the truck, put the belt on, noticed the gap needed and went from there.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    How much does something like that cost?
    Pulleys are about 5 bucks, same for the belts. You can pay upwards of 100+ dollars, or do it yourself for 20 ish dollars.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    Looking good! Are you using 5M HTD5M gears and belt?

    Can you get a shot of it from the back of the truck illustrating the clearances between the two gears?

    Im digging that fan setup! I am trying something new with mine using a radial fan, depending how that pans out I might switch later to something like what you did here...

    -Liberty
    3M belts more words

  13. #13
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    I owe a thanks to oakvad for the US poly belt link. Without it my truck would still be down. Iíve yet to find pulleys in the US but ordered 3 or 4 from China to be able to swap as needed.
    Also I set the tension the same way you guys are explaining. Iíve seen other pulleys that are more narrow, putting the grub set screws on one side of the pulley or another, but that wonít work for 2 reasons, not substanbtial enough, or motor shaft is too short. Maybe if you custom ordered a TP with a longer shaft it may. They already have issues with shaft breakage though.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I owe a thanks to oakvad for the US poly belt link. Without it my truck would still be down. Iíve yet to find pulleys in the US but ordered 3 or 4 from China to be able to swap as needed.
    Also I set the tension the same way you guys are explaining. Iíve seen other pulleys that are more narrow, putting the grub set screws on one side of the pulley or another, but that wonít work for 2 reasons, not substanbtial enough, or motor shaft is too short. Maybe if you custom ordered a TP with a longer shaft it may. They already have issues with shaft breakage though.
    Same website Gripdog. Just do some searching they're on there.
    And your welcome

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I will use different belts, I also have the Kershaw design motor mount(lots of adjustability). So I had the spur and pinion off the truck, put the belt on, noticed the gap needed and went from there.
    This is what I did to my pulley, haven't tried it yet been busy. But this won't work for everyone. I use a huge pinion because im running a really low kv motor, 780kv. Also made some aluminum spacer plates
    I was using aluminum shims that just fit over the screw but it was a pain to mount that way.

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  16. #16
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    Took the X-Maxx for a spin. Belt was really tight. It loosened up a bit. Coasts pretty decent. My motor and esc temps were still low. Batteries got warm, and only had storage charge or less. Got them charged up, but havenít run it since. Gonna take it out tomorrow, Iíll get some video. Itís fast, still pulls wheelies. Iíll let video and gps do the talking tomorrow. No more slipping, and still that sound.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    My pinions do also on my metal to metal gear setup. I snug one motor height screw enough where it stays put but will pivot. Then I set the mesh and gently slide the gear back off to tighten the other screw. Then slide the gear back on... same concept with a belt but would need the ability to slip the belt on. (Solution is take the outer pinion wall off) I doubt the belt has enough stretch to go over it.

    I have been considering making a video for this, since it's a bit tricky.

    I need to make a motor mount for the xmaxx that solves this problem. Like how the x01 mount works adjusting from one of the sides where there is plenty of space.
    You need to make yourself a special tool. When I get time I'll take a picture of mine. It lets you tighten your motor to a Kershaw motor mount with your spur gear on...costs about a buck to make.

    P.S. How much does a belt system cost?
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    You need to make yourself a special tool. When I get time I'll take a picture of mine. It lets you tighten your motor to a Kershaw motor mount with your spur gear on...costs about a buck to make.

    P.S. How much does a belt system cost?
    Iím interested in this tool however, with a pulley Iím skeptical.
    20 bucks for 2 pulleys, and a belt to your door.

  19. #19
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    https://youtu.be/xBAq6G7RDGI
    Just a short video as promised.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I'll take a picture of the tool as soon as I get a chance. I don't know it would work with a belt drive, but it works good for the Kershaw mod.

    P.S. Where did you get your belt drive from?
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Thanks for the info. I'll take a picture of the tool as soon as I get a chance. I don't know it would work with a belt drive, but it works good for the Kershaw mod.

    P.S. Where did you get your belt drive from?
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323539905694
    6mm bore for spur 8mm bore pinion
    polybelt.com for belts

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thank you for the info.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  23. #23
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    Got pulleys today. Now Iím running 30/40 with a 195 belt. Loctite curing now. Loosened belt as well to allow for proper coasting. Iíll report back.

  24. #24
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    Well still too tight. Went to the 198 belt and adjusted the motor a tad. This is a tedious balance between hot pulleys, coasting, and zapping the esc. Too tight, too many amps, too much heat. Too loose, the belt slips. Think Iíve found the balance. 30/40 is fast, crazy fast. This motor still impresses me.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Well still too tight. Went to the 198 belt and adjusted the motor a tad. This is a tedious balance between hot pulleys, coasting, and zapping the esc. Too tight, too many amps, too much heat. Too loose, the belt slips. Think I’ve found the balance. 30/40 is fast, crazy fast. This motor still impresses me.
    I was looking at the blank pulleys (no teeth)
    My thoughts were to make a "tensioner" pulley in between the other two.
    Potentially you could add this pulley to not really add tension but force the belt to do more wrap around the main 2 pulleys were additional teeth are in contact with the belt. This would allow more grip on the drive belt with less tension.

    Just a theory at this point but I know its done allot on superchargers for sports cars... could also help remove some belt harmonics.

    I ordered some parts for mine so hopfully I can add some additional insigt to this conversation.

    -Liberty

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    I was looking at the blank pulleys (no teeth)
    My thoughts were to make a "tensioner" pulley in between the other two.
    Potentially you could add this pulley to not really add tension but force the belt to do more wrap around the main 2 pulleys were additional teeth are in contact with the belt. This would allow more grip on the drive belt with less tension.

    Just a theory at this point but I know its done allot on superchargers for sports cars... could also help remove some belt harmonics.

    I ordered some parts for mine so hopfully I can add some additional insigt to this conversation.

    -Liberty
    Iíve thought about the same thing just havenít engineered anything for it. I look forward to your thoughts. Iím gonn strap on the GPS soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    https://youtu.be/xBAq6G7RDGI
    Just a short video as promised.
    If you don't hit that corner correctly you are going to take out a house! Looking forward to the GPS results.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivejumpfly View Post
    If you don't hit that corner correctly you are going to take out a house! Looking forward to the GPS results.
    I think Iíve gotta go to the Speed Run road I run the Rustler on.

  29. #29
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    So maybe you guys can help me. Iím generating heat from the input shaft area. Not sure if the belt tension needed is putting pressure on the bearings(I think it is) or I just need to replace the bearings. Any looser the belt slips, any tighter the truck wonít coast right. The pulleys get some heat(minimal), but the input shaft area with an 83 degree
    Motor is 125. Any ideas?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    So maybe you guys can help me. I’m generating heat from the input shaft area. Not sure if the belt tension needed is putting pressure on the bearings(I think it is) or I just need to replace the bearings. Any looser the belt slips, any tighter the truck won’t coast right. The pulleys get some heat(minimal), but the input shaft area with an 83 degree
    Motor is 125. Any ideas?
    I cannot say that I have ever measured temps on the shaft before. Kinda wish I had now that you mention this...
    Did you measure these temp locations before and they were more closely paired?

    If the answer to that is that they were very close and now its very different I'd imagine the bearing is the most likely source.

    -Liberty

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    I cannot say that I have ever measured temps on the shaft before. Kinda wish I had now that you mention this...
    Did you measure these temp locations before and they were more closely paired?

    If the answer to that is that they were very close and now its very different I'd imagine the bearing is the most likely source.

    -Liberty
    Itís noticeably different. Thank you for your response. Iíll report back. I really donít think I have that size.

  32. #32
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    So my rear diff was acting funny. Good diff action forwards, binding reverse. Took it apart. Replaced the fluid with 500k, replaced bearings, and the input shaft bearings. Diffs fixes up, and temps are better. Still a hot spot though. May be the nature of this setup. Got some speeds in on half charged packs.


  33. #33
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    So running today, pretty hard, geared high. Motor was 100, esc 92. Spur pulley 130. My fear is you have to keep so much tension in the belt to get in not to slip, itís creating too much resistance. Belt is getting so hot it sounds tacky. The truck coasts well(relative term, itís very fast. The motor pulley is around motor temp. That spur pulley is my hot spot. I just installed ceramic bearings. Iím about to scrap this project. Iím gonna throw the 46 tooth spur on. It they gears wonít hold, Iíll move to mod 1.5.
    Just went from a 198 size belt to a 201, slips like crazy.
    Thinking Iím gonna try 39/46. See what temps look like.

  34. #34
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    That's interesting and disappointing at the same time about the temps, I never would of thought that would happen and I wonder if the belt tensioner idea Liberty and you discussed would alleviate that or if it would be worth pursuing.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    That's interesting and disappointing at the same time about the temps, I never would of thought that would happen and I wonder if the belt tensioner idea Liberty and you discussed would alleviate that or if it would be worth pursuing.
    I bet it would, it would be nice to try, but I reality I’m sure functionally it’s not worth the trade offs. I’ve spent lots of hours adjusting, testing, and keep coming back to the tension pulling up on the input shaft.
    Gear mesh is so much easier, I did the belt drive as a novelty. 37/46 gears installed already.
    Last edited by Double G; 12-11-2018 at 10:38 PM.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    So running today, pretty hard, geared high. Motor was 100, esc 92. Spur pulley 130. My fear is you have to keep so much tension in the belt to get in not to slip, itís creating too much resistance. Belt is getting so hot it sounds tacky. The truck coasts well(relative term, itís very fast. The motor pulley is around motor temp. That spur pulley is my hot spot. I just installed ceramic bearings. Iím about to scrap this project. Iím gonna throw the 46 tooth spur on. It they gears wonít hold, Iíll move to mod 1.5.
    Just went from a 198 size belt to a 201, slips like crazy.
    Thinking Iím gonna try 39/46. See what temps look like.
    Those temps don't seem hot at all to me. Im curious now what temps are on gears

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I bet it would, it would be nice to try, but I reality I’m sure functionally it’s not worth the trade offs. I’ve spent lots of hours adjusting, testing, and keep coming back to the tension pulling up on the input shaft.
    Gear mesh is so much easier, I did the belt drive as a novelty. 37/46 gears installed already.
    A big thank you for your R&D it saves alot of us from going down the same path but you never know someone might find a tweak or a fix, you should hang onto them just incase. I would be curious as to the temps with the gears on also. I'm putting some pics up under the Orange Xmaxx but they don't do the real thing justice but it's a teaser.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakvad View Post
    Those temps don't seem hot at all to me. Im curious now what temps are on gears

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    There was never any temp increase noticeable with gears, you can feel, and smell the issue with pulleys and belts.

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    Is there any benefit to the belt drive vs meshed gears?


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    One nice thing is they are very quiet.
    The thing I wanted out of the belt drive conversion is less damage in the case of a failure. For one there is some flex in the system but worst case scenario you throw a belt which wont break anything.

    I recently blew up a 46T spur and it caused about $100.00 worth of damage...
    (spur shaft, aluminum cush eliminator, spur, center main shaft, pinion)

    I'll have my final belt parts this weekend and do some initial testing next week with my belt drive, but like Gripdog7205 I can already see myself going over to mod 1.5 After doing all this gear research I noticed some low cost mod 1.5 options on Ebay that I might try after exploring the belt drive.

    -Liberty

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