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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Factory Works SRT-R carbon fiber chassis build 2

    the carpet building continues...

    As some of you know I have been putting tother a few different rcs, but I recently realized indoor carpet racing is the area I would like to focus. I've deconstructed several rcs to free up some parts. Hereís a stadium truck for the 13.5T class and the second of three rcs I plan on racing at PDX underground, a local indoor carpet venue (and only one in my area I am aware of.) Iíll be shooting for some regular attendance at the venue starting sometime this winter. The green buggy is almost ready for action and there are still some remaining changes/additions to this ST that need to happen. I do plan on adding one more rig to the carpet team before we sign up and begin racing. It will be this third rc which will go to my son for the 17.5T buggy class, and it will be another FW bandit build and it will be epicÖso stay tuned.

    I started with a Factory Works SRT-R carbon fiber chassis and THIS time with their standard 3mm thickness (my first fw 17.5t build was 1.5mm and yes I know Iím pushing it with that thickness, I was warned.) The only reason I know about this company is because of FTD. I've been gleaning from several of his threads and you will notice many similarities. Let me just highlight a few things, let me know if there are any q's.

    Pretty sure this is a finisher JC body.



    Here's the current weight with a shorty, as well as the buggy's weight with shorty:




    I did our typical racing tranny utilizing a modified rpm case housing a 100k hr diff, strc layshaft for a VTS slipper, RR idler. The axles are mip c-cvds meant for the rustler/P2de and length (although too short for the rustler/p2de,) is perfect for these pro-trac a-arms!!


    I used some some parts from an HR sway kit. I tried a variety of methods these past few weeks...and this is one of the better versions. I used a 4mm nut as well as an upside down wheel nut on a longer bulkhead screw to prop up a piece of traxxas chassis which is installed the hr blue piece. I'm very new to anti-roll, however, when compressing one side the other is moving as well! There are two lighter rods that could be installed as well from the HR kit. I did need to do some cutting and bending of the rods.







    Questions
    1. Any name suggestions?
    2. Any 13.5T pinion/spur recommendations?
    MTFBWY

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    Awesome!
    Very nice couple of track tools there.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Sweet looking truck! What type/brand 13.5T motor and ESC are you running in this one? That will have an affect on the gearing choice. Generally speaking, I would start in the 24T/78T - 25T/78T range for the size and type of track you'll be running. What about timing?
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Trentbaby65 and FlyingTigerDad,

    thank you guys. This rig got a HW XR10/G3 combo. When I hit the carpet I want to "represent" our community well. I also put in a nice protek 170. I need to install a different rx as well. I still need to tune the shocks and fill with oil as well as glue the tires and dial in the esc/motor/servo. Building this rig was the easy part, dialing it in will take some time. I also have a lot to learn about the settings on the motor/esc/servo, and I'm not sure about the timing...I think it is a stock class 13.5T. I'll check on that.

    A few months ago I put together a starship build and used an 1/8th scale HW motor/esc, and I purchased the wifi module at that time. I wanted to keep it simple and not acquire another interface tool and I can use the wifi module with this build as well.

    Thanks to Razor, this rig has the VTS slipper mod. For anyone doing that mod, make sure to fully compress the spring with some pliars (per manufacturers recommendation,) and thank you FTD for figuring out that problem for me.

    The shocks are powerstrokes with prospec springs (as I had some extras on hand.)

    Does the wing help at all? I was debating putting it on there figuring that it had plenty of weight in the back! Perhaps it helps it fly straight?
    MTFBWY

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Trentbaby65 and FlyingTigerDad,

    thank you guys. This rig got a HW XR10/G3 combo. When I hit the carpet I want to "represent" our community well. I also put in a nice protek 170. I need to install a different rx as well. I still need to tune the shocks and fill with oil as well as glue the tires and dial in the esc/motor/servo. Building this rig was the easy part, dialing it in will take some time. I also have a lot to learn about the settings on the motor/esc/servo, and I'm not sure about the timing...I think it is a stock class 13.5T. I'll check on that.

    A few months ago I put together a starship build and used an 1/8th scale HW motor/esc, and I purchased the wifi module at that time. I wanted to keep it simple and not acquire another interface tool and I can use the wifi module with this build as well.

    Thanks to Razor, this rig has the VTS slipper mod. For anyone doing that mod, make sure to fully compress the spring with some pliars (per manufacturers recommendation,) and thank you FTD for figuring out that problem for me.

    The shocks are powerstrokes with prospec springs (as I had some extras on hand.)

    Does the wing help at all? I was debating putting it on there figuring that it had plenty of weight in the back! Perhaps it helps it fly straight?
    That's a solid, powerful, lightweight setup for the ESC/motor combo & should do quite well. The XR10 has all of the adjustable features that you'll need for the carpet. For a couple of starting setting suggestions - a lot of drag brake will be your best friend on the carpet. I would start at 30% and adjust from there if needed (as a reference, I run 30% on my wife's truck, which is the max the Blackbox will go to, and 40% on my truck). Also, turbo timing (wide open throttle only) in the ESC is extremely helpful - 15% should be plenty, with no delay. According to HW, the motor is set to 40 degrees timing from the factory. I would leave it there to start & check temps, but look to go to as high as 50 degrees for max punch and straightaway speed in a truck.

    As for the wing - a spoiler will help with in the air control, but the on-road style wing (for speed run setups, I presume) they give you with that body won't last long on the carpet. I almost got one of those body's for the wife's truck, but opted for the Silverado instead this time. I always told myself that if I got the Illuzion Hi-Speed body for any of my trucks, that I would replace the stock wing with a more conventional style truck spoiler - it will last much longer, and work better on a track environment.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    As always, thanks for the advice! It looked like this esc was a competitor to the one you put in your truck. Part of me wanted to branch out and try a different manufacturer, but I decided to stick with an interface I am already familiar with and already on my iPad.

    It turns out that the 13.5T class does not allow ESC timing adjustments, but it does allow mechanical timing of the motor.

    I'm gonna go check out the Mrs.' ride!
    MTFBWY

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    As always, thanks for the advice! It looked like this esc was a competitor to the one you put in your truck. Part of me wanted to branch out and try a different manufacturer, but I decided to stick with an interface I am already familiar with and already on my iPad.

    It turns out that the 13.5T class does not allow ESC timing adjustments, but it does allow mechanical timing of the motor.

    I'm gonna go check out the Mrs.' ride!
    ESC timing in a 13.5T class tends to be very track dependent - my track allows ESC timing in that class because they consider it a "super stock" type of class. At any rate, in that case, start with the factory setting of 40 degrees on the motor and see how it does for you, but don't be afraid to bump it up to 50 degrees if temps are good. These modern "new generation" stock (17.5T & 13.5T) motors are designed around high timing setups. As a matter of fact, I've bumped up the timing of the Maclan 13.5T motor in the wife's truck back to 50 degrees, which was where it was set from the factory.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Whatup Ya'll!
    Sorry about the poor quality video...but you gotta start somewhere right?
    I hope to post more details/videos of this carpet adventure soon.

    https://youtu.be/5-uvPtNygu4
    MTFBWY

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Wow! These cars are so clean in those pics. That track looks fun!
    I like free stuff!

  10. #10
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    How is the carbon fiber holding up. Im looking to get the trx b chassis from Jeff at factory works but he is suggesting to go with the g10 for durability. Im building an outdoor 17.5 clay track buggy.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldmeister View Post
    How is the carbon fiber holding up. Im looking to get the trx b chassis from Jeff at factory works but he is suggesting to go with the g10 for durability. Im building an outdoor 17.5 clay track buggy.
    Great so far, although we only have about 8 hours of track time in. I would add that my 11 y/o and I had some gnarly crashes on the carpet-overlayed concrete.

    I like the rigidity of the cf, the g10 will have a slight bit more flex and is a bit heavier. My first choice would be all carbon fiber with a black battery box. Second first choice would be a g10 lower deck with a black batter box AND all other deck material/towers in carbon fiber (and I might even go with 4mm carbon towers

    I really like the two srt-r chassis from factory works. My 17.5 stock buggy has a 1.5mm lower and upper deck in carbon. It doesn't flex as much as you might think.



    This srt-r chassis is a bit longer than the the trx-b.



    MTFBWY

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Whatup Ya'll

    I hope everyone is doing well. We are planning a visit to the track on monday and I'm looking forward to testing out a few changes I have made to this rig. I hope to get some good video as well to give you an idea of how this truck handles.

    I made a few changes to the front end (as I was having trouble steering off/on power) including: a thinner anti-roll bar, and a new hole for the inner camber link. I'm also planning on removing some of the front shocks internal travel limiters, I basically need a little more roll in the front. I ran it last time with that modified camber position, so I'll be able to tell what difference this smaller diameter bar will make. I think the bar was the main problem...this new one I bent is much smaller yet still affects the other a-arm with the shock on, but it's about half the size as the first blue one. Anyhow, here's a photo of the front end. I also had to beg my daughter for some of her finger nail polish...reluctantly she complied. As the paint set a bit I was able to shape it better and cut away some excess. It was fun to mess with.


    I also had some fun with some stickers representing the currently installed gear.


    I'm running the battery all the way forward in the battery box. I recently remounted the electronics in order to get the esc's weight more forward and also to free up the whole battery box in case I want to run with the battery moved backwards some.



    One other thing I did was switch the rear camber links to some lunsford 4mm, this carpet overlayed concrete is no joke. At least the ramps are wood and offer some softer landings but there is a lot of concrete.

    I am looking forward to some more thorough steering. The drag brake setting on the esc is fun to play with and offers some initial turn in, however, after the weight "balances" after the initial front transfer I'm getting push understeer. I know the roll bar will help and if necessary I'll remove some limitation inside the shock. Once it steers I think this truck is going to be really fun. I don't have much experience to compare with but this rc really rips! The 160A esc paired with the 100 or 120c 2s gives the 13.5T a really nice rip of acceleration and it feels like a hotrod...it almost made up for the lack of steering, almost. I'll be bringing some lighter front springs to the track to try as well. Traction rolling was a very minor issue these last two track sessions, I think I rolled twice.



    I'm not sure how I missed this during assembly, but the rear PL axle carriers were a little too large. I ended up installing some red TRX aluminum carriers-bo ya.



    This pic showing the wear spot on the plastic. I'm glad they were rubbing as I had some traxxas aluminum axle carriers and I like the idea of the aluminum part there.

    Adios for now
    Last edited by Synnergy; 03-17-2019 at 03:56 AM.
    MTFBWY

  13. #13
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Looking good, sounds like you have some solid things to try to address your steering issues. BTW, your swaybar is totally free, right? No binding at all and it will drop under its own weight? Can the blue plastic mounts on the arms swivel towards/away from the bulkhead on their own?

    When the suspension arms compress, it looks like they're going to try to push that bar in towards the centerline of the car laterally, unless the pivots on the arms can move freely towards/away from the chassis. There's also 30 degrees of kickup in the arm mount, so when the suspension compresses, it's also going to try to push/stretch the swaybar back towards the rear of the car. That's why swaybar mounts on the arms are usually a pillowball design so that it can move in 360 degrees.
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  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip Razor,

    I did address this problem already, I ended up using some different hardware for the "pull arm" of the roll bar, as I discovered that the way I had it before was too tight. I found out yesterday that there is no practice at the track tonight so I won't be making any test runs this week, but I might be able to fit in a video walkthrough of this rc and then I could show how it looks and moves. The way I have it now there is a lot of movement. You have a good eye, I tried using a blue rod-end at first (as seen in the first few pictures) before finding a better method. This whole anti-roll system would be fairly easy to repeat, I'll show in a vid. ttyl
    MTFBWY

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