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  1. #1
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    MIPS pins breaking. Plus outer front axle wearing out. FAST.

    I bought new outer axles for the front because the old ones were getting out of round where the pin goes. Took about 3 months. The new ones took about 3 weeks. Plus, I've had two pins now break in the front. The front ones have been redesigned, but really has nothing to do with my problem. Now what?



    Last edited by mountainbiker2; 11-25-2018 at 02:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    Adjust slipp clutch spring, if you can, make a slow-motion video of no throttle to full throttle on asphalt and adjust til, there’s no spin. That’s what I do to reduce the ware on my driveshafts. Or change your diff oil weight to be lighter. Stock is like 30wt front and 30-50wt (is actually grease when it’s stock, only for the rear) rear. So you could start trying 20wt f and 30wt r till you find something that fits your driving style. O, forgot to say. If you hit jumps or etc, don’t go on the throttle when you’re going to hit the ground, this places high wear directly on the drive shafts.
    Another way is by getting light rims/tires, creates less rotational mass, thus creating better acceleration and less ware. <- never tried it but only heard about it, so I would not try unless it’s the final resort.
    Last edited by Sterling_2240; 11-25-2018 at 02:55 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker2 View Post
    I bought new outer axles for the front because the old ones were getting out of round where the pin goes. Took about 3 months. The new ones took about 3 weeks. Plus, I've had two pins now break in the front. The front ones have been redesigned, but really has nothing to do with my problem. Now what?



    I never had any problems with Mip driveshafts on my 2wd and 4x4 Slash(never say never) I am just curious, what tires and esc- motor are you using in your Slash?


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  4. #4
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    I'm running Proline Badlands or Blockades. Stock motor and esc, but on 3cell Lipo. Gearing 11/54 I go to the track a lot and I do accelerate when the car lands from jumps. I'm not there to go slow. I'm fine if it breaks after a few months like before, but not after a few weeks. Those holes look the same as the ones I replaced with much more time on them.

  5. #5
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    MIPs are pretty stout, something is off. Elsob (known member here) has a set he's been running for four years! Are your tires out of balance? That could account for the bearing wear. Try teaching out to MIP, they should warranty or at the very least discount, and might be able to offer some I sight.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    MIPs are pretty stout, something is off. Elsob (known member here) has a set he's been running for four years! Are your tires out of balance? That could account for the bearing wear. Try teaching out to MIP, they should warranty or at the very least discount, and might be able to offer some I sight.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Correct here. Also I must add about the slipper clutch person, the whole point of MIP’s is to be able to drive your rig without a ton of slipper clutch action which is needed to keep the stock driveshafts from disintegrating.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker2 View Post
    I bought new outer axles for the front because the old ones were getting out of round where the pin goes. Took about 3 months. The new ones took about 3 weeks. Plus, I've had two pins now break in the front. The front ones have been redesigned, but really has nothing to do with my problem. Now what?



    If I were you, I would give MIP a call! I've been running my MIP axles since 2011 and they don't have that much wear. I run aluminum beadlock rims on my trucks the whole time I have had those axles. They may have had a bad batch. They have amazing customer service so give them a call.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  8. #8
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Is that bearing toast? Looks like it's spinning in the carrier, it's all polished with smooth wear bands in the direction of spin. If it's seized, that's going to contribute to premature wear.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Something is really wrong. I beat my truck like it owes me $ and have never has issues with the MIPs, except they are noisy

  10. #10
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    The main problem I have seen people have with MIP X-Duty axles is letting the suspension travel go so far they bind. This commonly ends with broken axle cups or broken pins. Check and make sure that at full compression or extension the axle still spins freely.

  11. #11
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    I sent MIPS an email. I change bearings all the time. Tires have been balanced. Not sure how many shelf queens we have here, but I probably go through 10 packs of 3cell lipos a week. My older MIPS axles looked like this in about 3 months. These were toast right away. Really no changes to my car, driving etc. Can't explain it.
    thanks for the inputs.

  12. #12
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker2 View Post
    I sent MIPS an email. I change bearings all the time. Tires have been balanced. Not sure how many shelf queens we have here, but I probably go through 10 packs of 3cell lipos a week. My older MIPS axles looked like this in about 3 months. These were toast right away. Really no changes to my car, driving etc. Can't explain it.
    thanks for the inputs.
    What arms are you running, not RPM, right?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  13. #13
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbiker2 View Post
    I sent MIPS an email. I change bearings all the time. Tires have been balanced. Not sure how many shelf queens we have here, but I probably go through 10 packs of 3cell lipos a week. My older MIPS axles looked like this in about 3 months. These were toast right away. Really no changes to my car, driving etc. Can't explain it.
    thanks for the inputs.
    Insulting people who are trying to help you usually ends up not in favor of the person seeking help. Humble yourself, provide information and we won't have to ask if your bearings are bad or if your tires are balanced. Me personally, I'm out. I hope you get it figured out, what ever you do just remember keep having fun.

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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    mine is no shelf queen

  15. #15
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    My shelf queens are units you can't buy parts for because I bought them 20-30 years ago and not one is a Slash that is for sure.

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Got grease??? Those look dry as a bone.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Insulting people who are trying to help you usually ends up not in favor of the person seeking help. Humble yourself, provide information and we won't have to ask if your bearings are bad or if your tires are balanced. Me personally, I'm out. I hope you get it figured out, what ever you do just remember keep having fun.

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    Not insulting anyone. Just answered the questions that were asked. Not sure where the insult was. Sorry.

  18. #18
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    By implying those who have had no issues keep their trucks on the shelf. Your experience and their experiences differ; regardless of who makes a product you will have some that continuously have issues whereas others run years with no problems. All they were saying is that this "event" is not normal and trying to help troubleshoot the root cause. In the end this is not a Traxxas issue but rather a MIP so take the matter(s) up with them and their customer service.
    The Super Derecho

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier Iansprouse1's Avatar
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    My thoughts on the issue- perhaps the problem isn't with the axels or your bearings. I had a thought that the problem may be a damaged steering block (or possibly the c-hub it rests on) because you aren't having problems with the rear and the one thing the front axels experience that the rear ones don't is steering. I'm not sure that you'll find anything but it is one more thing to rule out so you can have more data to help find your solution
    Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, SCX10, Bearded Dragon

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    They are good for 37 degrees max at the wheel. The new HD versions may get more, at least I think that is what their tech guy was telling me when I was there last week. I was told that marine grease or equal is mandatory on metal to metal pieces, so the grease stays put. From the pics, your's look as if they have never been lubed. ?????? The bearing being polished is also something else to look into. The X Duty axles were designed for 2s/3s power, again, straight from the horse's mouth at MIP. Many peeps double that without issues. E mail tech support and attach pics, their guy is very knowledgeable, understands their products, so you will surely get it figured out. Be sure to leave your phone #, you just might get a phone call. Good luck on getting this solved.

  21. #21
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    You guys might be on to something here. I have the steering tie rods mounted to the steering block on the inside hole. Meaning it will turn sharper. Quite often I have the transmitter steering wheel at full lock. The tracks have very tight turns in some spots. Just maybe, that's the accelerated wear I'm getting. Don't know for sure, but something to look at. I use Graphite spray instead of grease. The one track has very fine dirt.
    thanks,

  22. #22
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    I clean my hub carriers and hub bearings, and I notice over wear on my front shafts to. I have intigy hubs and Carriers if It matters. Iím thinking about messing with the dif fluid but idk.
    Last edited by Sterling_2240; 11-28-2018 at 10:42 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterling_2240 View Post
    I clean my hub carriers and hub bearings, and I notice over wear on my front shafts to. I have intigy hubs and Carriers if It matters. I’m thinking about messing with the dif fluid but idk.
    I've used 10k and 30k and I think the wear is the same.

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