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  1. #1
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    Why do I keep breaking Rustler Axles?

    So I have a Rustler VXL and a Slash. I have a track set up in my yard and it seems almost every time I drive the Rustler I break part of an axle. Its getting annoying. I have a set of steel axles I have yet to put on but I am afraid if I do something else will start breaking. Any thoughts?

    I have never broken anything on the Slash(yet).

    I would post pictures but I'm not sure the best way to do that.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    What battery are you running? 3s will eat stock axles. Also, are you replacing the driveshafts in pairs? If you only do one at a time the other side will likely fail soon after. If you already have some steel upgrades, I would suggest putting them on. Then you shouldn't have to worry about it anymore.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    What are you usually doing on the track when the axle breaks? Stock VXL motor? What gearing? What battery? How tight is your slipper?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    The slash 4x4 axles are a cheap upgrade. Im pretty sure the new rear driveshafts from the rustler 4x4 will fit but I havent tried.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    it looks like Sl4sh and R4stler use part #6852 for the rear axles. I do like me some sl4sh rear axles for the stock and rpm P2de/Rustler rear a arms.
    MTFBWY

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    6852a is new, 6852x is from the slash4x4. 6862a are thicker then 6852x.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    6852a is new, 6852x is from the slash4x4. 6862a are thicker then 6852x.
    IanRose, that is some good info right there. I looked at a couple of stores for the 6852a and they aren't there, just the x version for the sl4sh. On Traxxas.com in their part section they list the 6852a as "extreme heavy duty" and they are listed for $12. You gotta love that!! Thanks for the info...I'll try them out sometime.
    MTFBWY

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    IanRose, that is some good info right there. I looked at a couple of stores for the 6852a and they aren't there, just the x version for the sl4sh. On Traxxas.com in their part section they list the 6852a as "extreme heavy duty" and they are listed for $12. You gotta love that!! Thanks for the info...I'll try them out sometime.
    I scored some off rc super store dot com. I was looking since the rustler parts list came out. I got them only for the front and steel 6852 r in the rear, and hosnestly I might have been able to have the extream heavy dutys all around theyre almost twice as thick as the x slash axles. See pics below.

    To original post: ive ran 6852x on my pede and rode them hard with no problems. Cheap and pop directly in. When i rebuild my pede we'll find out if 6852a fit. They should, but should dosent mean it will.

    Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  9. #9
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    Dang, those 6852a driveshafts look really beefy. I might have to try those out for my Rustler 4x4 build when I get around to it.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC_N3RD View Post
    Dang, those 6852a driveshafts look really beefy. I might have to try those out for my Rustler 4x4 build when I get around to it.
    They are the stock shafts that come on the 4x4 rustler and the last batch of slash ultimates. On 2s theyre all you need. They'd probably last on 3s. Im running them on the front of my 3s setup but im only 2 runs in.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for all the info. I am running a stock VLX motor and stock gearing with 2s lipos. The slipper clutch is a 1/4 turn from all the way tight. The shafts break randomly, can't really pin point what I am doing on the track to cause them to break. I think when I get a chance I will install my steel ones and see what happens.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    All of my many Traxxas trucks have overpowered systems, metal hexes and metal drive shafts. I recommend going to metal. Here is my research:

    brand, part#, price, notes (if needing metal hexes +$12), telescoping, constant velocity (CV) or dog bone

    MIP-heavy duty, 10130, $57, strongest but heavy, has metal hexes, total: $57, CV
    MIP-race duty, 13105, $45, break easily - very bad reputation, (not an option), CV
    Pro-Line, 6273-01, $57, not proven yet - few parts for rebuild, total: $69, CV
    STRC, ST1953X-L, $35, many parts for rebuild, total: $47, dog bone (for Sla2h: ST1953X)
    Tekno-M6, TKR6852X, $44, need: TKR1654X aluminum hexes $17.50, easy rebuild, total: $61.50, dog bone
    Traxxas, 1951R, $44, many parts for rebuild, total: $56, CV (boots rip easily)

    I have MIP, STRC, Tekno, and Traxxas. MIP are heavy! STRC are least expensive. Tekno have the great reputation. Traxxas are nice and quiet. I really like them all. For me, I like CV better and Traxxas better.

    All the best, Doc
    Obstacle Magnet

  13. #13
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    Thank you much for the info!!

  14. #14
    RC Racer Syari.Studios's Avatar
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    Just buy X-Duties and be done with it, they're only like $15 more than the STRCs and will never break unless you're doing something seriously wild. If you send your rig hard enough to break X-Duties new driveshafts would likely be the least of your worries...
    Why do I have all these leftover parts???

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I've never owned x dutys but they dont like awkward angles. Thats true with most of the metal driveshaft setups. When even someone post a picture of a broken x duty people blame the angle the user was running them at. See the video on youtube where Kevin Talbot cracks 3 out of 4 xdutys within a month of puttting them on, and compare that to forum members who get 5+ years out of the same xduty shafts Different setups for different people.

    Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have 1951Rís on my Rustler, they put up
    With 4S and 6S. Yes Iíve replaced boots. I use Tekno M6ís on my P4de, I have broken them, but it was my fault. Theyíre very tough.

  17. #17
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    Put my steel ones on and ran through about a battery and a half with no issues. Should have put them on sooner! Here is a little video of the Rustler in my yard.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JP6crQxtVow

    Also one of my Slash:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojP1pqlXa7Y

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