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  1. #1
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    Thinking about getting a E-Revo 2.0... what upgrades are essential?

    Hey guys,

    I'm seriously thinking about getting one. I want a XMaxx, but I can't pull the trigger on a RC that expensive. So the 2.0 is my next choice.

    What upgrades should I do right out of the box. I see the rod ends are a major weak point.

    Tips would be nice!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    I really haven't had issues with rod ends. I've had mine since day one, first run out I pulled a shock end in the rear. After that I put the aluminum rear chassis brace on it and haven't had an issue since. So first upgrade is the aluminium rear chassis brace. Eventually your servos will go, I've recommended the savox 1231 for some time. Never an issue with them. Take care of your motor wires, they tend to lose the protective mesh and expose bare wire. I went through 2 vxl6s Esc's, but I'm pretty abusive with this truck. Honestly, put the rear chassis brace on and run till it breaks! Just remember, keep having fun! Ots a great truck, I love it.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    Thinking about getting a E-Revo 2.0... what upgrades are essential?

    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    I really haven't had issues with rod ends. I've had mine since day one, first run out I pulled a shock end in the rear. After that I put the aluminum rear chassis brace on it and haven't had an issue since. So first upgrade is the aluminium rear chassis brace. Eventually your servos will go, I've recommended the savox 1231 for some time. Never an issue with them. Take care of your motor wires, they tend to lose the protective mesh and expose bare wire. I went through 2 vxl6s Esc's, but I'm pretty abusive with this truck. Honestly, put the rear chassis brace on and run till it breaks! Just remember, keep having fun! Ots a great truck, I love it.
    I agree. The rear aluminum chassis brace is a must. The stock plastic one is a weak point when landing jumps. Many have either cracked or snapped their chassis or rear bulkhead with the plastic one it comes with. Most savox servos will require an external bec to provide enough power. But itís totally worth it. I recently saw tracxas came out with their own coreless and brushless servos. The specs on them seam really good. You might give traxxas a call and ask if they can be powered by the bec inside the stock esc. I assume they designed them to work, but it wonít hurt to check if you want to avoid the external bec.

    EDIT: I just did some research and the red traxxas brushless servo is designed to replace both dual servos on the ERevo with just one red brushless servo. Still requires an external bec. It appears traxxas now offers their own bec to power their new line of servos. Itís a kit with the bec and a new top cover for the receiver box so it fits inside the receiver box for easy installation.


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    Last edited by Charger Man; 12-05-2018 at 01:10 PM.
    115 mph Heavily Moddified Slash 4x4 on 6s

  4. #4
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    Chassis brace aluminum
    New tires if you run 6s
    Good batteries... not red Traxxas
    Servo(s) of your choosing
    I ditched my esc because it tried to blow up on me but many have had better luck
    I blew my motor under normal use. They didn’t warrenty it so beware.
    Superglue rod ends in
    Motor fan is important for 6s use

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post

    Superglue rod ends in

    Threadlock or does it have to be superglue?

  6. #6
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    Peeeenuuutt

    Which esc did you replace the old one with?????? And why????

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    EDIT: I just did some research and the red traxxas brushless servo is designed to replace both dual servos on the ERevo with just one red brushless servo. Still requires an external bec. It appears traxxas now offers their own bec to power their new line of servos. Itís a kit with the bec and a new top cover for the receiver box so it fits inside the receiver box for easy installation.
    I asked Traxxas about new servos. Bec is not required except for TRX-4(which the kit was designed for). Direct drop in for ERevo and other models @ 6v.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraverseCityMi View Post
    Threadlock or does it have to be superglue?
    You can use anything.

    And I replaced my ESC with an absolute workhorse MXL 6s. The last one available in the US! Well... there is a few left on another website but have fun paying $300. Reason being is my vxl 6s started giving off smoke every time I started it up and finally mid run while I was going past myself, it got all jittery and quickly stopped. When I went to go again it did the extreme cog at full throttle thing. Not today, I’ve seen too many esc’s of mine go up in flames a few seconds after this, so I instantly grabbed the truck threw the body off and disconnected both batteries. Cut it close though, smoke just started pouring out right when I disconnected the first one but stopped right after. Also a bubble of burnt whatever made a weird dip in the bottom of the esc housing, I noticed this when removing it from the truck.

  9. #9
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    Buy a Traxxas Bluetooth Module and a wheelie bar. If you keep the stock ESC, just setup the telemetry and monitor your temps. Your ESC and motor will last if you keep an eye on the temps. Heat will burn up any ESC or motor. Traxxas provides free telemetry with the truck if you use the Bluetooth Module:



    I have an 8S X-Maxx and the E-Revo 2.0. The X-Maxx is pricier, but it is that much more fun. If you have access to areas where the low clearance of the E-Revo 2.0 is not an issue then go ahead and pick it up. If your running areas are not suited for a low clearance truck then save up for the X-Maxx.
    Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    I agree. The rear aluminum chassis brace is a must. The stock plastic one is a weak point when landing jumps. Many have either cracked or snapped their chassis or rear bulkhead with the plastic one it comes with.
    Are you refering to the factory rear brace that has multiple mounting points to the chassis, along with the attachment points at the shocks and rear body mount? I have the aluminum one hanging on my wall, because the factoru one looks more stout to me. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
    I fix things till they can't be fixed.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    I agree. The rear aluminum chassis brace is a must. The stock plastic one is a weak point when landing jumps. Many have either cracked or snapped their chassis or rear bulkhead with the plastic one it comes with. Most savox servos will require an external bec to provide enough power. But it’s totally worth it. I recently saw tracxas came out with their own coreless and brushless servos. The specs on them seam really good. You might give traxxas a call and ask if they can be powered by the bec inside the stock esc. I assume they designed them to work, but it won’t hurt to check if you want to avoid the external bec.

    EDIT: I just did some research and the red traxxas brushless servo is designed to replace both dual servos on the ERevo with just one red brushless servo. Still requires an external bec. It appears traxxas now offers their own bec to power their new line of servos. It’s a kit with the bec and a new top cover for the receiver box so it fits inside the receiver box for easy installation.


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    That BEC is for 3S only. The VXL-6S ESC should be able to power the servo without issues. The MXL-6S, however, will lead to heartbreak, as the on-board BEC can't supply enough current to keep it going. It was a sad weekend, having to say goodbye to the last original part of my ERBE. She's now entirely E-Revo VXL from one end to the other.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zone 5 View Post
    Are you refering to the factory rear brace that has multiple mounting points to the chassis, along with the attachment points at the shocks and rear body mount? I have the aluminum one hanging on my wall, because the factoru one looks more stout to me. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
    Ha, got one hanging on my wall as well. Got it for my Revo 1.0 and never put it on. I've been debating on putting it on the new Revo because like you said, the factory one looks pretty stout with it's multiple mounting points. Wish they made an updated aluminum one that mirrored the plastic style with multiple mounting points as that would be ideal.

  13. #13
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    Tulo52, I mounted mine on top of the plastic cage. I used a couple shock balls, and 40mm screws to anchor it in the rear. It's saved my chassis at least twice, so far. I'll have to take some photos and post them next time I have the Purple People Eater out and about.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Charger Man's Avatar
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    Thinking about getting a E-Revo 2.0... what upgrades are essential?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zone 5 View Post
    Are you refering to the factory rear brace that has multiple mounting points to the chassis, along with the attachment points at the shocks and rear body mount? I have the aluminum one hanging on my wall, because the factoru one looks more stout to me. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
    Yes, it may look strong and sturdy but it is no where near as strong as the aluminum one that bolts to the rear shocks and to the rear body mount. The plastic one seams like it would be strong being mounted with 7 screws but the amuninum one with only 3 screws is way stronger. The way the stock plastic one is constructed allows for too much flex. The amuninum one locks everything solid.


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  15. #15
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    Yes, it may look strong and sturdy but it is no where near as strong as the aluminum one that bolts to the rear shocks and to the rear body mount. The plastic one seams like it would be strong being mounted with 7 screws but the amuninum one with only 3 screws is way stronger. The way the stock plastic one is constructed allows for too much flex. The amuninum one locks everything solid.


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    Second this, I broke my plastic one.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charger Man View Post
    Yes, it may look strong and sturdy but it is no where near as strong as the aluminum one that bolts to the rear shocks and to the rear body mount. The plastic one seams like it would be strong being mounted with 7 screws but the amuninum one with only 3 screws is way stronger. The way the stock plastic one is constructed allows for too much flex. The amuninum one locks everything solid.
    Thank you!! Guess I know what I'm putting on the car tomorrow.
    I fix things till they can't be fixed.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Beavis View Post
    That BEC is for 3S only. The VXL-6S ESC should be able to power the servo without issues. The MXL-6S, however, will lead to heartbreak, as the on-board BEC can't supply enough current to keep it going. It was a sad weekend, having to say goodbye to the last original part of my ERBE. She's now entirely E-Revo VXL from one end to the other.
    Thatís news to me! I run dual savox powerhungries for over 400 oz in of torque and 2 fans (I actually had 3 at one point, one being a computer fan) and my mxl 6s BEC was fine doing the job. It runs these servos just how the vxl 6s did.


    Big mistake getting rid of your mm2 bro. I like mine so much more than the vxl 6s.. but to each their own

  18. #18
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    Peeeenuutt, my MXL died. I had to take the walk of shame out to retrieve it from across a muddy field. I'd have much preferred keeping the MXL, as I have a Castle Link, and loved the idea of being able to tweak it. I'll be figuring out the intricacies of the VXL-6S, I guess.

    On the up side, I was able to remove some wires from the previous jury-rigged telemetry setup!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwinTurbo95 View Post
    Hey guys,

    I'm seriously thinking about getting one. I want a XMaxx, but I can't pull the trigger on a RC that expensive. So the 2.0 is my next choice.

    What upgrades should I do right out of the box. I see the rod ends are a major weak point.

    Tips would be nice!

    Thanks!

    I'll add my 2 cents and you can decide if its right for you.. But My brand new less then 2 weeks old E-revo that barely saw any action more just riding around the dirt roads no jumps tricks stuff like that broke the front half shaft already.. So im replacing the whole drive shaft with metal.

    and next will proly be upgraded axel carriers if I can find the things..

  20. #20
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    Weird. I beat mine like a red-headed stepchild, and the only parts I've broken have been from not landing a jump properly, and a fried ESC because of the 2255 servo I swapped in. It seems everybody's experience with The Beast is different. They either take everything you can throw at them, or you look at it crooked and it breaks. Mine is a tank, and I love it.

    TwinTurbo95, my 2 cents is, drive them both, and see which one puts the huge grin on your face. In my case, the grin was the same for The Purple People Eater and the X-Maxx. I'll be adding an X-Maxx next year some time, probably for my birthday.

  21. #21
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    Yeah for the most part the thing is a tank, but something happened with my Pivot ball and drive shaft that just threw stuff outta wack, Im not sure if it was just a mistake when they put it together and bam it broke on me or what..

    Only good thing to come out of it so far is I'm learning a TON about these things lol

    And a new set of badlands for the revo.. cuz why not :P

  22. #22
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    EXACTLY!

    I have a set of Trenchers, but they're too big and heavy. I went back to stock tires until something better comes along.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Beavis View Post
    Tulo52, I mounted mine on top of the plastic cage. I used a couple shock balls, and 40mm screws to anchor it in the rear. It's saved my chassis at least twice, so far. I'll have to take some photos and post them next time I have the Purple People Eater out and about.
    Would love to see some Pics of that setup!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraverseCityMi View Post
    Threadlock or does it have to be superglue?
    Superglue. Threadlock will attack the plastic.

  25. #25
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    Does anyone know if the cheaper 20kg DS servos on amazon are any better than the 2075’s that are stock?

  26. #26
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    Anyone do anything about the rear tie rods? RPM True Track doesn't fit he 2.0 does it?

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