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  1. #1
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    New guy with a green VXL

    Figured I'd make a quick intro post.

    My name is Dennis and I originally got into the hobby as a kid in the 90's when I got a Stampede for my birthday. As an "adult" I got into nitro buggies and I still have an Ofna 9.5 truggy laying around somewhere.

    I'm 32 now and received my new Rustler 4x4 VXL this morning after about 10 years away from the hobby. Stock gearing on 2s is plenty of power for my backyard and I'm more than happy with the speed on 3s with stock gearing when playing out in the street.

    Take off Slash GTR shocks are on order and I'm sure I'll upgrade the driveshafts at some point. From what I've researched, it looks like the Tekno M6 driveshaft kit for the 4x4 Slash should work on the Rustler as well, so I may go that route. Was also looking at MIP's which I did have on my old Stampede, but they're a bit pricey. Recommendations/suggestions regarding driveshafts are more than welcome!

    Anyway, just wanted to drop in and introduce myself.

  2. #2
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    Welcome back to the hobby. This is my second year in the hobby just turned 15 a couple months ago, and I'm kinda new in the forums too. Just wanted to drop by and say hello.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggonsoulin View Post
    Welcome back to the hobby. This is my second year in the hobby just turned 15 a couple months ago, and I'm kinda new in the forums too. Just wanted to drop by and say hello.
    Thanks, bud. Was right around your age when I got into the hobby.

  4. #4
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    Had a little dusting of snow the other day so I had to get out.

    20181229_100507 by D Hunley, on Flickr

    Turns out my utility sink is perfect as a snow melting and drying station.

    20181230_121643 by D Hunley, on Flickr


    My GTR shocks came the other day and as expected, the stock slash springs are way too weak. Kept the stock shocks on for now and ordered some VG Racing springs. Should have those in a couple days.

  5. #5
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    tonkyataco another forum user said that he broke an mip x duty on his rustler 4x4 vxl. So i would reccomend going with something cheaper and being prepared to replace the driveshafts.

  6. #6
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    I would suggest getting some metal gears for the servo. When the servo gears break and you got no replacements on hand it is very frustrating. BTW I was only 11 when I bought a latrax sst for myself. Later i bought a redcat caldera sc10e brushless. Both had carp servos and crap gears, so I gave up on the hobby for 1 year. One time less than a year ago, I looked in my closet and saw my redcat caldera. The battery had somehow stayed charged. I duct taped the steering fixed, jumped it straight off my bmx ramp, then I was back into the hobby lol.

  7. #7
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    Make sure you do not run in snow that is on the side of the road. I have heard that people put salt in the snow to make it melt in cold states, and this will make everything on your car rust very quickly. You should spray it with water after every run if you run in muddy ish grass and snow. Last thing, be careful about driving in very cold weather. It is much easier to break the plastic parts, because it is cold.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    tonkyataco another forum user said that he broke an mip x duty on his rustler 4x4 vxl. So i would reccomend going with something cheaper and being prepared to replace the driveshafts.
    Because one broke does not mean the entire line is horrible. I wouldn't take one person's single, short-term experience as the end-all truth when you have dozens or hundreds of others who have had nothing but positive experiences with theirs.

    On the other hand, many people report poor quality of Integy so I will stay away from them.

    Also, if you pay $72 for shafts and they last three or four years why would you buy, say, $30 shafts every year? In the end you save money.
    The Super Derecho

  9. #9
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    My point is, mip might have slight inconsistencies. It is better to go cheaper, so if there is an inconsistency in one cvd you are losing $10 not $30

  10. #10
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    But I completely understand your point of view

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    Make sure you do not run in snow that is on the side of the road. I have heard that people put salt in the snow to make it melt in cold states, and this will make everything on your car rust very quickly. You should spray it with water after every run if you run in muddy ish grass and snow. Last thing, be careful about driving in very cold weather. It is much easier to break the plastic parts, because it is cold.
    Nothing wrong with running in the snow on the side of the road or in the middle of the road. Brine is usually put down before a snowfall so that it aids in keeping ice off the road during a snowfall. During plowing salt/sand mix is laid down in the street to melt the ice - not snow and yes it will work its way to the snowbanks either through plowing or runoff. You want the salt mixture to remain on the pavement and not the grass as it will cause an imbalance and kill it off. So no, we don't through salt in the snow to make it melt. As long as proper maintenance (such as washing, drying and protection) is completed post-snow running one will be just fine. Same thing goes for those that run in fine sand and by salt-water. Proper after-run is good.
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    My point is, mip might have slight inconsistencies. It is better to go cheaper, so if there is an inconsistency in one cvd you are losing $10 not $30
    Given production stats, all products will have slight inconsistencies and there will be bad parts that get past quality control and make it into the hands of a consumer. There is not one company that does not have this issue, hence said company having a warranty and customer service. Some honor a warranty as long as it is still in the package - remove it and it is "abuse" and not covered. I don't have personal experience with MIP but their X-Duty's for example are fully rebuildable so any damaged or worn part can be replaced rather than the whole assembly - you don't pay $72 for another set, just $15 for an axle.
    The Super Derecho

  12. #12
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    I was explaining that he should be more careful with salty stuff though. Salt is very good at rusting metal parts, but as long as he cleans it after all runs he should be perfectly fine.

  13. #13
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    I've been on this world long enough to know that salt can cause rust and that plastic becomes more brittle when cold, but I still appreciate the heads up. Thankfully they don't salt the streets of my sub so I don't really have to worry about that.

    I'll replace the servo when needed, but right now it's working fine. Just got back from a pretty hard bashing which included some gnarly cartwheels on blacktop and the Rustler took it all like a champ.

    I think with the GTR shocks, a chassis brace and some better driveshafts, this thing should be more than durable enough for me. Might consider a better motor, but I'm not sure yet.

  14. #14
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Quote Originally Posted by SeekerOfTruth View Post
    Might consider a better motor MOUNT, but I'm not sure yet.

  15. #15
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    I picked up a rusty 4x4 VXL on Christmas. I probably ran through 10 packs that weekend with no issues other than the rear shaft setscrew backed off and gave me RWD until I figured it out. Overall it's a great truck as long as you have some space to run it. My house is much better for rock crawling so I have to take a trip to the local park if I don't want to be breaking parts.

    I went to the LHS Monday and bought pretty much every traxxas upgrade they had. Picked up the AL C hubs and steering blocks, the AL rear blocks, GTX shocks with 30wt/blue springs in the front. rear 50wt/Greens in the back, center diff and the swaybars. I also filled the front diff with 50k because I didn't like how the front tire was unloading in turns. I also have 100k and 15 million in case I need to tune the diffs more. Pick up a 5581 seal kit just in case since I ripped the gasket already. It's only $1.50 and it's cheaper than the diff rebuild if you just need the gasket.

    I've been pretty much housebound since I can't really walk right now but I might try and take a trip today to see how it works. I did run it for 20 minutes outside and the setup seems to be pretty good. The sways keep it flat so less traction rolling. The shocks seem to suck up everything I've thrown at it. I did have to pick up a different set of front turnbuckles because I seemed to run out of adjustment. It's likely because I was running too much camber in the front (-2+) but I'm now set at -1 front and -1.5 rear.

    Overall I'm quite happy with the truck. I've been playing with RC since the late 80's and I'd recommend this truck to anyone that has a bit of experience in RC. It's done a few hard tumbles without issue and the modular chassis makes it really easy to work on. Protip, read the whole manual and you will manage to take out the front diff without taking the whole front end apart.

    I do want to get the AL motor mount but it's not yet available. Not sure what else is available since info is a bit scarce on a model this new. I don't really see needing much more though. I do want a clear clipless body since mine is showing wear already and I like painting bodies.

  16. #16
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    What are you going to use as a chassis brace? I was considering using an x maxx driveshaft. Do you have any suggestions?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    What are you going to use as a chassis brace? I was considering using an x maxx driveshaft. Do you have any suggestions?
    I went with the VG Racing chassis brace.

  18. #18
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    I see. It may be worth it in the long run, if you do big jumps, but I dont. I like going very fast over rough terrain, wheelies, and driving on a track, so I am not expecting to need something like that. Have fun with your new rusty.

  19. #19
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    I'm not super hard on my RC, so it's probably overkill, but I want it to be as tough as possible. Looks pretty cool, too.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Because one broke does not mean the entire line is horrible. I wouldn't take one person's single, short-term experience as the end-all truth when you have dozens or hundreds of others who have had nothing but positive experiences with theirs.

    On the other hand, many people report poor quality of Integy so I will stay away from them.

    Also, if you pay $72 for shafts and they last three or four years why would you buy, say, $30 shafts every year? In the end you save money.
    I was just about to say this. Thankfully you beat me to it, because I wouldnít have been so nice.
    I read that you have no experience with MIPís, you should definitely get a set. Obviously youíve heard hundreds of people raving about how durable they are, and I agree. Mine were basically invincible. By basically I mean they were. I ran them on my slash for a few years with no maintainence and they didnít have any signs of wear. That was a 8th scale castle 1515 truck. Mega torque.
    Last edited by Peeeenuuutt; 01-16-2019 at 04:25 PM.

  21. #21
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    yeah tonkyataco and twisted both broke some, so I continue to doubt the durability of these shafts.

  22. #22
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    Let's hope a recall is issued on them!!!
    The Super Derecho

  23. #23
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    I know. I feel bad for those people who have wasted $40 due to incostincies in a brand.

  24. #24
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    You shouldn't because it isn't your money. Just like I won't feel bad when you break your Integy axles or burn up your Castle motor because it runs very hot in the Rustl4r. Unless I missed it, Tonkatoytaco didn't mention in his posts about breaking an MIP shaft and recommended purchasing them in one of your threads. Twisted said he did and later wrote it must have been a fluke.

    Just look up the product info and instructions for Integy parts as found on their website. They state that some parts will require prep out of the package (many reported inconsistencies with gearboxes) and may require shimming for proper fit; extra parts/shims/spacers may be needed but not included; some require modification to fit the vehicle they were made for; most of their products do not include instructions. Here is a company that makes parts specific for vehicles yet you either need to modify the vehicle and/or part (thus voiding warranties) to get it to fit. This to me is a definition of inconsistency.
    The Super Derecho

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    You shouldn't because it isn't your money. Just like I won't feel bad when you break your Integy axles or burn up your Castle motor because it runs very hot in the Rustl4r. Unless I missed it, Tonkatoytaco didn't mention in his posts about breaking an MIP shaft and recommended purchasing them in one of your threads. Twisted said he did and later wrote it must have been a fluke.

    Just look up the product info and instructions for Integy parts as found on their website. They state that some parts will require prep out of the package (many reported inconsistencies with gearboxes) and may require shimming for proper fit; extra parts/shims/spacers may be needed but not included; some require modification to fit the vehicle they were made for; most of their products do not include instructions. Here is a company that makes parts specific for vehicles yet you either need to modify the vehicle and/or part (thus voiding warranties) to get it to fit. This to me is a definition of inconsistency.
    Actually speaking of integy, those were the first driveshafts I put on my slash 4x4 after the stock plastic ones. I mean, I don't blame old me, here was my thinking: "well I mean they're metal so they should be pretty darn strong? I mean.., it's not that hard to make a strong rod out of metal..." boy was I wrong. Snapped a rear on the third run, right at the thinnest part, where it shrinks up after the telescoping area and goes into the cvd. Snapped right there. Never again going integy, wish I read up on them. Oh well, that was only $20 wasted. Still wasted money! After that I went MIP. Lasted the life of the truck.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier tmbold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Let's hope a recall is issued on them!!!
    Lol! Itís crazy how some people have been in this hobby and community for so long, and the rookies come in and regurgitate posts and know everything!

  27. #27
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    Your info is completely wrong. First of all, I am not burning up my castle motor. It barely even gets warm. You are not the one with actual experience with this motor, in this truck, with the gearing, battery, cooling fan + heatsink, that I am using. Second I am not voiding any traxxas warranties. I put the heatsink on a castle motor. Third, in case you were wondering, the integy cooling fan + heatsink fits perfectly on the stock motor without ANY modifications. Fourth, I did not get integy axles. My reply/thread may have been unclear, but I am getting an integy cooling system, not integy axles. I do know that people do not liek integy axles, and that they break.

  28. #28
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    My original post was to harsh on Luke, therefore it's been redacted.
    Last edited by FnFancy; 01-17-2019 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Redacted
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  29. #29
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    The only thing I'll say is that you posted in another thread that your motor gets hot (click the bold words in my previous thread)...

    Having e-arguments is never productive let alone rewarding. And I know that.

    Read your PM. This thread has taken quite the turn and veered off and I'll admit I was a part of that change of direction.

    Sorry to the OP. Now back to the regularly scheduled topic...
    The Super Derecho

  30. #30
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    Luke,,,,what size was the heat sinc was the one you have ,,I noticed there a couple sizes in the fans,,this will be my first install of one,,,do you by any chance have a part number? Thanks tazzzz

  31. #31
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    In another thread, Luke reported to have been using a dual fan heatsink.

    T8534BLUE or T8534GREEN

    I personally have no experience with them however.

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