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  1. #1
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    Spec Racing on Tight Indoor Off-Road Track (Black Carpet)

    Went racing for the first time ever and, undoubtedly, the best way for my truck to get faster starts with the guy holding the radio. That said, I was able to eak my way into the A-Main by winning the B.

    In the A-Main, about halfway through, I started traction-rolling very badly. I'm assuming this was because the tires began heating up. I ended up 4th out of 6 and 5 laps off the winning pace.

    So, I was hoping you all could have a look at my setup and let me know what you think (if I'm anywhere close).

    Front:
    • 1° Toe Out
    • -4° Camber
    • Shock position all the way out (RPM Arms)
    • 80wt shock oil
    • Downstroke Limiter 2mm
    • Upstroke Limiter 3.30mm
    • Stock tires (required)


    Rear:
    • -2° Camber
    • Shock position all the way out (RPM Arms)
    • 80wt shock oil
    • Downstroke Limiter 7mm
    • Upstroke Limiter 5mm
    • Stock tires (required)


    Misc:
    • 16/90 gearing
    • Shorty LiPo positioned forward.
    • Diff 1/2 filled with Bad Horsie


    If you're incredibly bored, you can see the race here (I start last and finish 4th in the Gunk livery). Again, I'm fully aware that poor driving is the #1 problem:

    Last edited by ChappyEight; 01-01-2019 at 10:28 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I've never ran a Spec Slash on carpet, but IMO your truck looks much taller and with a lot more shock extension than the yellow truck (winner?) I'd start with more shock limiters to reduce the shock stroke and lower the truck. You have tons more roll than the yellow truck which is most of your problem. 80 wt. also sounds very, very thick, are the fastest trucks actually running that much? I'd guess you shouldn't need to go over 45, even that will be a lot IMO.

    Also, do you have to use stock bodies? I found an aftermarket body helps an amazing amount in making the truck more planted. There was a huge difference going from my stock Slash body to a Proline Tundra body.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  3. #3
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    I agree 80wt sounds way to high. I think 40 would be a good starting point.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I've never ran a Spec Slash on carpet, but IMO your truck looks much taller and with a lot more shock extension than the yellow truck (winner?) I'd start with more shock limiters to reduce the shock stroke and lower the truck. You have tons more roll than the yellow truck which is most of your problem.
    You're exactly right (and yes, he won). I noticed that as well, that I was sitting much taller. I also noticed that his stock tires were nearly bald, I'm guessing that would help.

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    80 wt. also sounds very, very thick, are the fastest trucks actually running that much? I'd guess you shouldn't need to go over 45, even that will be a lot IMO.
    You're probably right about this. I went with a setup I found here: http://traxxasslashrage.net/setups.php. Pretty sure I blew a seal in one of the shocks, so I'll definitely be going down on oil weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Also, do you have to use stock bodies? I found an aftermarket body helps an amazing amount in making the truck more planted. There was a huge difference going from my stock Slash body to a Proline Tundra body.
    I actually hadn't even considered this. Yes, we're allowed to use aftermarket bodies, so I may have to give that a shot.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    I agree 80wt sounds way to high. I think 40 would be a good starting point.
    Yeah, will definitely be going down on oil weight.

    Really appreciate the insight, guys.

  5. #5
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Cool, good luck! I only raced spec slash for a very short time, but these tips might help —

    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  6. #6
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    Very helpful, thank you!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChappyEight View Post
    You're exactly right (and yes, he won). I noticed that as well, that I was sitting much taller. I also noticed that his stock tires were nearly bald, I'm guessing that would help.



    You're probably right about this. I went with a setup I found here: http://traxxasslashrage.net/setups.php. Pretty sure I blew a seal in one of the shocks, so I'll definitely be going down on oil weight.



    I actually hadn't even considered this. Yes, we're allowed to use aftermarket bodies, so I may have to give that a shot.



    Yeah, will definitely be going down on oil weight.

    Really appreciate the insight, guys.
    Traction rolling has been an issue I have dealt with as well. I run Proline carpet tires and have been able to reduce traction roll, but not eliminate it. I run a VW BAJA (Proline BAJR) body, cut and dropped as low to the chassis as possible to keep CG as low as possible. I installed a Low CG kit, and installed Aluminum front shock tower with the top shock hole used to get the ride height as low as possible. I have stock shocks with aluminum caps and run 40w in front, 50w in rear. -15% shock springs up front, and +20% (FRONT) shock springs in rear to get it as low as possible. Run a bead of super glue on the very outside edge of the tire tread, as well as the sidewall of the tire. When the truck starts to roll, the edge with the CA glue starts to slip so you'll slide instead of rolling, and gluing the sidewall stiffens the tire a little bit. Remove your stock ESC and throw it in the trash, sell it, or save it and put it back in when you get frustrated. Traxxas and Castle ESC's are made for dirt. Their braking is insufficient for carpet racing. Buy a race quality sensored brushless ESC (And Motor) and stick the ESC right to the chassis pan with servo tape to get the CG as low as possible. I also set the servo end points on my remote to a lower value. It makes turning tight corners difficult, but it also forces me to use smoother race lines which upsets the suspension less. Upgrade the stock steering servo and get a faster race style servo. Something like this Savox or better. https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SC-1258...keywords=savox
    If the servo is under $50 it's probably not good enough for carpet racing. While your at it, upgrade the servo saver to a stiffer aluminum one, or eliminate it completely. Once you have spent a ton of money trying to make your Traxxas fast on carpet, convert it back to a basher and buy a dedicated race quality truck. lol. But seriously, even after doing all that, I still found it hard to race it on carpet. Good luck, and if you find something that works for you, PLZ share. Not many people in the forum race Traxxis on carpet.
    Last edited by Spharticus; 01-07-2019 at 02:50 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spharticus View Post
    Traction rolling has been an issue I have dealt with as well. I run Proline carpet tires and have been able to reduce traction roll, but not eliminate it. I run a VW BAJA (Proline BAJR) body, cut and dropped as low to the chassis as possible to keep CG as low as possible. I installed a Low CG kit, and installed Aluminum front shock tower with the top shock hole used to get the ride height as low as possible. I have stock shocks with aluminum caps and run 40w in front, 50w in rear. -15% shock springs up front, and +20% (FRONT) shock springs in rear to get it as low as possible. Run a bead of super glue on the very outside edge of the tire tread, as well as the sidewall of the tire. When the truck starts to roll, the edge with the CA glue starts to slip so you'll slide instead of rolling, and gluing the sidewall stiffens the tire a little bit. Remove your stock ESC and throw it in the trash, sell it, or save it and put it back in when you get frustrated. Traxxas and Castle ESC's are made for dirt. Their braking is insufficient for carpet racing. Buy a race quality sensored brushless ESC (And Motor) and stick the ESC right to the chassis pan with servo tape to get the CG as low as possible. I also set the servo end points on my remote to a lower value. It makes turning tight corners difficult, but it also forces me to use smoother race lines which upsets the suspension less. Upgrade the stock steering servo and get a faster race style servo. Something like this Savox or better. https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SC-1258...keywords=savox
    If the servo is under $50 it's probably not good enough for carpet racing. While your at it, upgrade the servo saver to a stiffer aluminum one, or eliminate it completely. Once you have spent a ton of money trying to make your Traxxas fast on carpet, convert it back to a basher and buy a dedicated race quality truck. lol. But seriously, even after doing all that, I still found it hard to race it on carpet. Good luck, and if you find something that works for you, PLZ share. Not many people in the forum race Traxxis on carpet.
    90% of what you did (while it works) is not legal for spec racing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    90% of what you did (while it works) is not legal for spec racing.
    Well, I guess it depends on what your track calls spec. At MY local "carpet" track, what we call a Spec class is everybody is required to run the same (ROAR approved) motor (13.5t, 17.5t, 25.5t) and the ESC has to be in "Blinky" mode, that's it. All car manufactures, and all other upgrades are allowed. The other classes we run are MOD classes where ANYTHING goes aside from how many wheels are driven and type of vehicle. The only FULL SPEC classes we run on carpet are what we call the Tamiya classes, which are the TT02 and Euro semi. Those SPEC classes require you to run a Tamiya vehicle as it comes "out of the box", no upgrades. I couldn't even imagine trying to run a Traxxis truck on a carpet track "Out of the box". Our track tried it once, but nobody wanted to race it because Traxxis trucks are nearly impossible to race on carpet "Out of the box". They will traction roll on EVERY turn UNLESS you modify them, or you have to drive them at 5 MPH which is no fun whatsoever. If your track is running a FULL SPEC Traxxis class on carpet then you either have the patience of a saint, or you need to let the rest of the world know your speed secrets, because a full spec Traxxis truck won't work on a carpet track from what we have tried.
    Last edited by Spharticus; 01-08-2019 at 12:20 PM.

  10. #10
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    For the sake of clarity, here are our "spec" rules...

    1/10 2WD STOCK SLASH

    1. Truck must be a 2WD Traxxas Slash
    2. Battery - Any 2 cell Lipo 65c max or 6-7 cell NiMH allowed
    3. Motor - Must be Traxxas Titan 12T 550 motor
    4. Electronics - Must be Traxxas XL-5 ESC and #2075 Servo, but can be any radio/reciever combo.
    5. Shocks - Must be stock Traxxas Slash shocks and springs (You may use any weight shock oil and aluminium caps).
    6. Gearing - Any 48 pitch spur and pinion combination.
    7. Body - Any short course body that covers all 4 wheels when looking down on the truck.
    8. Must use only Traxxas Slash parts except the following: RPM front and rear shock towers, A-arms, and hub carriers (Integy hubs are also allowed).
    9. Tires - Must be box stock rubber Slash tires and wheels (S1 soft compound tires are not allowed).
    10. Anything not listed above is not legal in this class!

  11. #11
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChappyEight View Post
    For the sake of clarity, here are our "spec" rules...
    OK, based on that, I would definitely get a high flow body like the Proline Fusion body, shorty battery, good radio/receiver, I'd consider gluing the servo saver locked (although you will break servo teeth like there is no tomorrow, maybe you can sneak in metal teeth into the servo, this would make a HUGE difference!), bad horsie diff locking grease, gear up. Skip all that RPM crap. If the Integy parts are aluminum I'd get that.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #12
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    Razor, you think putting Bad Horsie in the diff will be good on a tight track like he's running? I would think that would take away some of his steering?

    Also, has anyone bought Bad Horsie thru any other place other then direct from them?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChappyEight View Post
    For the sake of clarity, here are our "spec" rules...
    I'd do what what RazorRC22 said... But in addition, it sounds like there is wiggle room in the rules. If you are racing on carpet, I would still put some CA glue on your outside sidewalls and about an 1/8th inch of the outside tread. If the tire will clear your body, run a set of front shock springs on the back an add the required spring clips to lower the ride height or add internal shock limiters as was suggested by RazorRC. You still want the rear to be a little higher than the front otherwise your steering will suck. It says you can run any Traxxis parts, so I would put a low CG kit on it. (Unless #10 prevents that). If you're a cheater, convert your stock slipper to a Scheele/Avid slipper(Keep the slipper cover on). it's half the weight of the stock slipper, and will reduce the rotating mass.
    I'm a fan of doing a wet motor break in on brushed motors. I also spray my brushes and comm with electric motor cleaner at the end of every race day, and re-oil the motor bushings/bearings with a good synthetic oil. People that don't take care of their brushed motors will get slower and slower until they ultimately have to replace the motor. Also see if you can instal a heatsink on the motor. Something like this works with a rear motor setup. https://www.amazon.com/Bastens-alumi...motor+heatsink The higher the motor temps get, the higher the resistance in the windings will be, slowing the motor down more and more as the race goes on. I'd also test out different weight batteries. I have a road car that will traction roll if I don't put a heavy battery in it. if I put a 2500mAh battery in it, it traction rolls, if I put a heavier 5200 mAh battery in, it doesn't. Another thing that helps with spec racing on carpet is, remove the grease seals from the bearings in the trans, and remove the grease seals from one side of the wheel bearings (The side of the bearing that isn't exposed to the elements). Clean the grease out of the bearings and oil them with light synthetic oil. You can also try balancing your tires. If you can, remove the bumpers to save some weight unless the rules say you can't remove parts.
    Last edited by Spharticus; 01-09-2019 at 09:47 AM.

  14. #14
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    Razor, you think putting Bad Horsie in the diff will be good on a tight track like he's running? I would think that would take away some of his steering?
    Yes, I think something more than an open diff is a good idea. Shouldn't have problems steering even with a little bit of diff resistance. Maybe just packing it with a good amount of black grease is good enough, I'm not really sure.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    OK, based on that, I would definitely get a high flow body like the Proline Fusion body, shorty battery, good radio/receiver, I'd consider gluing the servo saver locked (although you will break servo teeth like there is no tomorrow, maybe you can sneak in metal teeth into the servo, this would make a HUGE difference!), bad horsie diff locking grease, gear up. Skip all that RPM crap. If the Integy parts are aluminum I'd get that.
    Okay, interestingly some of these things I've already done. I run a shorty battery, I use a Futaba radio/receiver, and I already swapped the servo gearing for metal. I'll definitely pick up a body, and glue the servo saver locked. Unfortunately, I already bought all the RPM stuff before realizing the integy was aluminum. If it breaks, I'll pick up the Integy. As for Bad Horsie...

    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    Razor, you think putting Bad Horsie in the diff will be good on a tight track like he's running? I would think that would take away some of his steering?
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Yes, I think something more than an open diff is a good idea. Shouldn't have problems steering even with a little bit of diff resistance. Maybe just packing it with a good amount of black grease is good enough, I'm not really sure.
    I'm actually already running Bad Horsie in my diff. I filled it roughly half-full (slightly less) for this carpet racing and it's considerably easier to control under power coming off the corner than guys who don't use it. When I run dirt this summer, I actually bought a second, separate diff that I'll fill completely full to lock that diff up all the way.

    ---------
    I'm headed to race again tomorrow night and I'm going to play around a bit with the Steering Expo on my radio (like 15-20% negative). Also, I found both ABS and Traction Control settings on my radio that I'm going to play with some too.

    Really appreciate all the input, guys. Oh, and Razor, your vids are great.

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    I just ordered some Bad Horsie. I have 3 slashes that I'm going to try it on. Maybe I'll try different amounts in each.

    So...you are happy with the 1/2 filled diff on your carpet track?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    . . . gear up.
    OP, is the truck topping out in the fastest areas now? If not (or if just barely), you’d probably benefit from gearing down for more punch coming out of all those corners. Otherwise, I think the suggestions mentioned above would help a bunch.

    How approachable is the guy with the yellow truck? Can you find out what his setup is?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    So...you are happy with the 1/2 filled diff on your carpet track?
    Yep, love it. It settles the "diff out" tendencies but retains its ability to turn.

    Quote Originally Posted by squareback View Post
    How approachable is the guy with the yellow truck? Can you find out what his setup is?
    Good thought. Everyone there seems pretty nice and helpful, I've not yet approached him (this past weekend was only our second time ever racing anywhere).

    ------------------------------------
    Speaking of which... I won this week! I used most all of your suggestions, managed to [mostly] stay out of trouble and picked up my first ever RC win. Even more exciting to me, my 9 year old son in his second race ever managed to place 4th out of 6 (he's the little dude standing to my left in the video). He was thrilled.


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    Nice work!

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