Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86

    New Merv, New to RC

    Not sure what inspired me, but I bought a 1/16 E-Revo recently. Did a bit of research and liked the inboard suspension concept, although I've also read about its limitations too.

    I've read a fair amount and watched various videos about the Merv. Tried to learn what might need to be addressed insofar as components that are likely to break, and did what is probably not such a good idea. I haven't really had this thing out yet and have upgraded everything in the drive train short of the ESC and motor. It's metal from the motor to the wheels. That includes aluminum bulkheads and an aluminum transmission case.

    I've also upgraded the A-arms to RPM, added aluminum tie rods and aluminum knuckles all around. Have aluminum A-arms on the way. I won't install them for a while as I doubt they'll make much of a difference at this point. I also installed a sway bar -- front only right now. Just need to get motivated to install the rear but I'm waiting on an aftermarket rear rocker...which arrived today. Doubt that will make a huge impact, but I'll install that at one point or another.

    I know some say don't go the full metal approach, or leave a weak point so as to avoid spreading the abuse around, I suppose I'll find out one way or another. It'll be a learning experience.

    As for the comment I made about not running the car before the upgrades, something I learned while I was a tooling designer, is that you don't change more than one thing at a time on a project. If you have a problem and change two things in an attempt to fix it, you don't know what actually solved the problem. Now, granted, I didn't have a problem with the Merv, but everything that I have done thus far has changed the way it will drive. I've added a T-Bone skid plate, and when the metal components are added in, it weighs more than it was in its original state.

    Something I'm dealing with now is the shocks/springs. I know I need to change the shock oil as after playing with some progressive rate replacement springs, it bounces too much on drop test. I'm thinking this thing is just going to bounce over bumps. Time will tell.

    Sooooo...in another moment of inspiration,I bought a 1/10 E-Revo that has some mods that I'd have done, and it was essentially built and never used. Got a good deal on it. Half of what was invested in it. It's a V1, but a recent one. That one I'm going to drive before I mod it. There's a ton of parts coming for it too.

    Yeah, this is gonna be fun.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,433
    Welcome to the Traxxas forums!

    Congrats on your purchases and have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Thanks!

    I'm finally to the point of which I think it's ready for action. After replacing so much on it there's a ton of tinkering that needs to be done to get the setup right. After putting metal A-arms on it the alignment was way off so I spent some time today making those adjustments. I bought an Integry setup kit that seems to work well enough.

    I know the shocks need to be worked out too, but I'll beat on it a while to see what I should do. This one will be mainly run on cement/pavement/brick.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,433
    Sice it's mor of a street MERV, what abut sway bars?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Hey Squeegie.

    I did add some sway bars. Took some pics and attempted to post them here. Yes, they're hosted somewhere. I followed instructions but that post never showed up. Last I saw of it was a flash of a comment when I hit the 'Post Quick Reply' button. It was something about it being reviewed prior to posting.

    Anyhoo.

    The pics were taken when it had a few parts off it, such as the spoiler and a few other things.










  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Ran the Merv last night. Found a spot where there was roughly a 50 yard straight that was perhaps 15 feet wide. I wasn't too worried about this being too small as this is my first time out and wasn't going to crazy on it. Ran pretty much as I expected. There is very little body lean, steering is very responsive. I was just trying to develop my driving skills a bit before pushing it.

    I think the suspension setup is probably pretty much set. 2 deg toe in front/rear with -2 deg camber all around. I ran it in a 12 foot circle at pretty high speeds and didn't break the backend loose. Might try 0 to 1 deg toe in on the back to allow breaking the rear end loose.

    There's a large open space up around the World Trade Center that's right on the Hudson. Spoke to someone yesterday who mentioned there aren't many people there later at night. I'll take it up there and open it up.

    The batteries I soldered worked fine. Ran parallel, got maybe a half hour out of a pair of NiMH and 45 out of 2.2AH lipos, well, guessing. Didn't time it.

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Oh, forgot to mention I cut it short as I lost steering when the arm came off the servo. I didn't locktite it. The second servo is connected to the receiver but not the servo saver yet. Haven't made the adjustable link yet.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86

    Adjustable Steering Linkage

    Still need to remove the T-Bone chassis brace and reattach the steering linkage. I'll locktite everything this time around. I also made an adjustable linkage from a standard linkage by cutting it in half, drilling holes then tapping. Had to cut the head off a screw to come up with the stud. Seems to work, but I do wonder if it will hold up as the threads in plastic aren't really going to be very strong. I glued the stud in one side, it might not be a problem.

    I'm thinking I very well will remove one of the servos after the test. I'll see how it goes and make a decision from there.

    The linkage I made looks a little rough when viewing it on a USB digital microscope. I ran a dremel over it to remove the big stuff. Eh, don't care. It's not as if that is visible anyhow.


  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,433
    Good job... I made mine as well, but not for a dual servo system. I made mine for my HiTec servo:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Wow! Yours looks like it was manufactured rather than a one-off.

    I used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut mine in half, which doesn't provide precision, as you can tell. I also used a hand drill, which in this case amounts to a handle with a vice at the end of it. Gives new meaning to 'handmade'.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,433
    It's been a while since I made mine, but I used shock rod ends and cut down a screw I had.

    I love the modding aspect of this hobby. There is almost no end to what you can do if you put your mind to it.

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    The Savox servos I have installed are noisy by themselves, and after putting that adjustable link in it just doesn't sound like I can come up with a happy median. The problem is that when using a stud created from a screw versus the studs you see on the adjustable links available for purchase is that the on one from the screw can only be adjusted by one full rotation. The ones you can purchase have a reverse thread on one side that allows it to be adjusted while installed as well as much more accurately because you don't have to fully rotate one side then install it again.

    I haven't removed the second servo yet, and will mess around with it tomorrow again trying to get a better adjustment. I had done an alignment on it and now it's pulling to the right after connecting it and buzzing constantly in the process.

    If I can get it back to where the alignment is maintained I might run it that way for a while to see what I think.

    Also, I'm thinking that the two servos could be drawing a lot of power. Big cogging. Haven't looked into a BEC, although I have a few of them.

    Nah, not worth the hassle. It's coming off. I have another ERBE project I'm working on that could use the time and effort more than this one.

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    86
    Haven't done much with my Merv lately. I've been working on another project where some of the things I'd doing there might be adapted to the Merv. Not too much, as the other project has an aluminum chassis, but I do have some ideas.

    Something I've added to my Merv is lotsa weight. Most of it is wrapped up in two items. A roll cage and a T-Bone skid plate. I could probably remove the skid plate without incurring much damage in the long run. I don't bash with this thing. And the parts involved that would get scraped up aren't terribly expensive.

    But something the skidplate does is help reinforce the chassis, which I'd hate to lose. Also, I have an idea on cutting out the lower part of the battery box to allow for a larger battery to be used. The skidplate would allow me to do that. I bought a few sheets of carbon fiber recently and was thinking I could retain the good aspects of the T-Bone skidplate if I were to fabricate a custom one from CF. It would be much lighter and as strong, if not stronger. I couldn't make it one piece, however. I recently found some incredibly strong 3M glue that would allow me to glue a few pieces together. Won't be digging into this for a while, however.

    I also bought some CF rods, and as I'm looking at the roll cage I have I'm thinking I could come up with a design incorporating some 3D printed pieces with CF rods that would provide a strong roll cage that is also light. Another added benefit of a lighter roll cage is a lower center of gravity.

    Both of these would require a fair amount of time, although the roll cage would definitely be easier as that involves cutting solid rod or tube, and printing a few fairly simple parts. Not much shaping involved.

    I'll let you know when I get started on one of them.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •