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  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    117

    The blue batmobile

    I run this beauty on a huge backyard turf track,
    It was a slash originally and chassis/body swap to a bandit as bit shorter and heaps lighter without the huge slash body n bumpers.

    Motor gets a bit hot but extremely fast....
    Cheapest brushless 80a ESC n 3650 5200kv
    Traxxas 2075 Inc savox metal gears n mod fuse!
    Tqi TSM combo
    Bandit chassis n body
    H/D 4x4 axles
    #5853x 17mm adaptors
    Big bores 40wt
    Stock box, 16/90, semi sealed diff 125k
    Modified slash bumper
    AE B6.1d wing mount
    Rpm slash arms
    Rpm nitro front shock tower
    Rpm rear shock tower
    Rpm 4x4 rear carriers
    Proline bulkhead
    Proline plastic hub replacements, modified
    Proline plastic steering kit
    Proline hardened front axles
    HR wide sway bar kit, red rear, nil front
    STRC hinge pin kit
    1/8 scale tyres n rims
    xo1 tyres n rims

    Fitting a 3652 4000kv to keep temps down over summer....




    Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Sparrow; 01-19-2019 at 08:19 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    117
    Stainless where required

    Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    30
    Nice RC!! I have a question though. First, the question if I switched to 2.8 Tires/wheels that require hexes, would I have to convert to a new spur and pinion gear? I heard on a video you have to switch to the 86t spur gear and the 16t pinion gear. Is that true? Also I’m talking about wheels for the rear.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    30
    I meant to ask if I had to change the axles as well.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Orygun
    Posts
    899
    Nice looking Buggy, Sparrow. It looks like a real good runner! If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to see how that HR anti-roll bar is installed. Would you take a few pictures of it for me? How do you like that front nitro shock tower? Is it thicker than the e-version?

    Also, nice mod with the caster blocks. Considering the Anza parts are discontinued, this is a slick mod! Well done. I still like the caster in aluminum and wonder if this would be possible with an aluminum part. Have you bent a king pin yet? What are you using for your king pin? It looks like an strc...

    Whatup TraxxasOffRoad! You do NOT need to change the rear axles. Usually, the 17mm adapter fits over your existing 12mm hex and the uses some type of barrel nut that screws onto the axle securing the 17mm adapter. The adapters come in a few different widths depending on how much width extension you are looking for. Regarding the gearing, Sparrow is listing his gearing at 16/90 with both his motor combos. He is also running the larger tires/wheels (as you know) on a med/high traction surface and says that it runs sort of hot. You may be okay with your 2.8s at 16/86 if you install a fan. Still, the best way to determine your temps for your particular driving style and surface is with a $10-20 temperature-meauring instrument.
    MTFBWY

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    117
    I have some weird long pins sitting there that I somehow acquired... look like the anza king pins but I drill steering block to 3mm and use a M3x50mm 'hi tensile' bolt cut to length, use a long bolt with half thread//half shaft.

    you could also do same mod to alloy castor block, countersunk bolt from top, nut at bottom and keep top camber link holes in castor block. I also run a proline plastic castor with top attached, shorter M3 bolt mod and use a short camber arm using the inner camber link hole that the proline Castor block offers.
    Popped a stock king pin first day and thought what a stupid setup, never had an issue since...

    The rear sway bar mount is reversible allowing choice of height, had to bend both ends of sway bar for better articulation and still get a respectable droop....
    I also mount front sway bar off top of steering posts by using long nut n bolt right through top chassis plate plus l highly recommend m3x10mm bolts, bottom of servo mounts countersunk into bottom of chassis, all the little things Syn!

    I use #6852x 4x4 h/d rear axles as bigger universal pins, thicker around the joints and more durable than the stock 2wd axles. H/D axles are great for 2s battery power but still get flogged out on 3s.

    Bandits with short arms can use the Telluride H/D rear axles.....

    Nuts on 100c 2sHV 7.6v's!

    Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

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