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  1. #1
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    Slash sway bars on Rustler 4x4

    Hi guys
    Does anyone know if the Slash Traxxas sway bars will work on the Rustler 4x4? I thinking in getting it for mine, my LHS suggested the Traxxas ones. I'm also open to different options, if you think any specific brand is good.

    The target here is to stop the truck from flipping over on every turn at the local turf track...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3rcfh View Post
    Hi guys
    Does anyone know if the Slash Traxxas sway bars will work on the Rustler 4x4? I thinking in getting it for mine, my LHS suggested the Traxxas ones. I'm also open to different options, if you think any specific brand is good.

    The target here is to stop the truck from flipping over on every turn at the local turf track...
    Yes they fit. Just make sure you get the ones for the LCG chassis if that's what you have

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonkatoytaco View Post
    Yes they fit. Just make sure you get the ones for the LCG chassis if that's what you have

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Also HR has a nice set. And it's reasonably priced

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonkatoytaco View Post
    Yes they fit. Just make sure you get the ones for the LCG chassis if that's what you have

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    I have the stock Rustler 4x4 VXL chassis, is that the low gravity one? I'm not sure

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3rcfh View Post
    I have the stock Rustler 4x4 VXL chassis, is that the low gravity one? I'm not sure
    Yes if you have the VXL then you have the LCG

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    What do you guys think, does the sway bars really help on the track? I switched the lower fixing point of my shocks to the last hole on the outside, helped quite a bit, but lost a lot of steering ability. I'm guessing the combination of something in between and the sway bar is going to be the ticket

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3rcfh View Post
    What do you guys think, does the sway bars really help on the track? I switched the lower fixing point of my shocks to the last hole on the outside, helped quite a bit, but lost a lot of steering ability. I'm guessing the combination of something in between and the sway bar is going to be the ticket

    I don't know about this particular vehicle but sway bar up front tends to cause understeer, and in the rear causes oversteer. Maybe if you have both you will just get 4 wheel drift

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackalopephoto View Post
    I don't know about this particular vehicle but sway bar up front tends to cause understeer, and in the rear causes oversteer. Maybe if you have both you will just get 4 wheel drift
    This is right on point in my experience. Your trying to eliminate rollovers. Since you changed shock position, the rollovers improved, but lost steering right? I would add the rear sway to reduce rear traction a bit to see if you get more turn in back...

    Anti roll bars are for reducing body roll in corners. Keeping the chassis flatter during a turn helps keep the tires sidewall from digging in. It should help reduce those snap rollovers...
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  9. #9
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    So here's a quick update, my LHS had the Traxxas sway bars for front and rear, I installed both. On the first day, I noticed a very small difference with and without the bars. And I put the black springs on.

    The next day I was reading about it and found something about leaving the sway bars somewhat loose at the chassis fixing points, just so it can move left to right. Day and night difference in the track after that adjustment... it feels like it has more forgiving as I brake before turns and with throttle and turn. Only rolled over once of twice but those where on me. I wonder if removing the front sway bar is going to do me any good, or if I should keep both. Next modification will be SCT wheels and tires, to see if it improves handling even more

  10. #10
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    Following this. I was wondering if those would help with rolling.

  11. #11
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    I forgot to mention I moved the shock back to the stock position with the sway bars on the front and rear. I'm happy with it for now, it's not a race buggy so it will all tend to rollover if I don't respect its limitations, I believe

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    I installed the Traxxas Slash 4x4 sway bars (black) today, along with new shocks & steel CV driveshafts. Tomorrow I'll take it out for a treat run, partially to see if I got the shock's settings & oil weight right...but also partially to determine if the black bars are right, or if I need to switch to the silver.

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  13. #13
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    Took my Rusty or for a treat spin today (after resolving a problem with one of the shocks which was somewhat stiff, & leaking oil, and I had NO rollovers...none....and I really tried. Several times, I drove my Rusty in tight circles, increasing speed, trying to tip it over...and, when that failed, I'd throw the steering in the opposite direction, but tip-overs still "failed". In tests prior to installing the sway bars, that would almost always cause rollovers. At the same time, the upgraded shocks (Pro-Line Big Bore ProSpec), increased oil weight (40 front, 45 rear), & different springs (Pro-Line yellow (med) up front, red (hard) in the rear), probably had a lil something to do with it.

    The Traxxas #6898 Sway Bar Kit was used. I installed the black (stiffer) bars front & rear, and tightened the flathead screws until the bars couldn't move (I only mention this because m3rcfh mentioned tightening them only to the point that the bars were held in place, but could still slide back & forth). Once I have the 2.2" wheels & tires installed, and can get the Rusty in the indoor track, I'll make adjustments, if needed. However, before I start making any changes to the sway bars, I'll first be working on dialing-in the shock's positions, spring rates, preload, and (if needed) oil weight.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    The Traxxas #6898 Sway Bar Kit was used. I installed the black (stiffer) bars front & rear, and tightened the flathead screws until the bars couldn't move (I only mention this because m3rcfh mentioned tightening them only to the point that the bars were held in place, but could still slide back & forth).
    Tightening the flathead screws to the point that they lock the swaybars to the chassis really defies the purpose. This will only act like you have put on stiffer springs. The swaybars need to move freely to work as intended.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    Tightening the flathead screws to the point that they lock the swaybars to the chassis really defies the purpose. This will only act like you have put on stiffer springs. The swaybars need to move freely to work as intended.
    I will make the proper adjustments...although, at the same time, your reply is only partially correct. I've been watching several videos, and reading several other things, and this is what most say to do (since Traxxas doesn't bother providing any instructions):

    After positioning the sway bars, install the glass screws first. You want them tight enough that the bar does NOT slide side-to-side, but lose enough that the bar can freely rotate up & down (and I believe I understand the reasoning behind this, which I'll explain). Once the flathead screws are to they're proper tightness, then you attach the A-arm end.

    While I'm not 100% certain as to why the sway bar shouldn't be able to move side-to-side, I would assume that it probably partially defeats the purpose of what the day bars are designed to do. Yes, they'd still work, can but they wouldn't work to their full potential, any more than installing sway/anti-roll bars would if installed loosely in a real car/truck. The same would apply to steering stabilizers.

    In regards to the up/down movement, it actually makes sense...it would be to decrease twisting of the sway bar's metal. Think of it this way - take any length of metal rod (it doesn't matter if the diameter is 0.2mm, or 3"), clamp any two points, and twist. The closer those two points are, the greater the amount of stress on the rod within that area, the weaker the metal will become in that area, and the greater the possibility the metal will break in that area; the further apart those two points, the amount of stress is decreased, the metal isn't weakened as much, and the lesser the possibility of breakage. Even though RC vehicles don't have as many parts as their full-size counterparts, physics still apply in the exact same manner.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    I will make the proper adjustments...although, at the same time, your reply is only partially correct. I've been watching several videos, and reading several other things, and this is what most say to do (since Traxxas doesn't bother providing any instructions)
    On the contrary, I believe my reply is spot-on. However, I guess I should have pointed out that I was talking about the pivoting action of the swaybar, and NOT side-to-side movement (but I thought that was obvious...).

    There is absolutely no point in installing swaybars if they don't pivot freely, and thus can transfer torsional force to the opposite side of the axle.

    And for the record, Traxxas does provide an installation guide:
    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...bar-120810.pdf

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    On the contrary, I believe my reply is spot-on. However, I guess I should have pointed out that I was talking about the pivoting action of the swaybar, and NOT side-to-side movement (but I thought that was obvious...).
    No worries. Sometimes, I'll not think about my exact wording, thus causing others to misinterpret what I've said. We're human...we all have "brain farts" from time-to-time (I should know...I'm becoming an expert in them).
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    No worries. Sometimes, I'll not think about my exact wording, thus causing others to misinterpret what I've said. We're human...we all have "brain farts" from time-to-time (I should know...I'm becoming an expert in them).
    He, he, sounds familiar...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    I will make the proper adjustments...although, at the same time, your reply is only partially correct. I've been watching several videos, and reading several other things, and this is what most say to do (since Traxxas doesn't bother providing any instructions):

    After positioning the sway bars, install the glass screws first. You want them tight enough that the bar does NOT slide side-to-side, but lose enough that the bar can freely rotate up & down (and I believe I understand the reasoning behind this, which I'll explain). Once the flathead screws are to they're proper tightness, then you attach the A-arm end.

    While I'm not 100% certain as to why the sway bar shouldn't be able to move side-to-side, I would assume that it probably partially defeats the purpose of what the day bars are designed to do. Yes, they'd still work, can but they wouldn't work to their full potential, any more than installing sway/anti-roll bars would if installed loosely in a real car/truck. The same would apply to steering stabilizers.

    In regards to the up/down movement, it actually makes sense...it would be to decrease twisting of the sway bar's metal. Think of it this way - take any length of metal rod (it doesn't matter if the diameter is 0.2mm, or 3"), clamp any two points, and twist. The closer those two points are, the greater the amount of stress on the rod within that area, the weaker the metal will become in that area, and the greater the possibility the metal will break in that area; the further apart those two points, the amount of stress is decreased, the metal isn't weakened as much, and the lesser the possibility of breakage. Even though RC vehicles don't have as many parts as their full-size counterparts, physics still apply in the exact same manner.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    If you apply a torque to twist a metal rod, the distance between where you clamp from and where you twist from does not actually change the stress in the rod. The stress would be the same if you were to apply the same torque to twist a 10mm length rod or 100mm length rod given the same section rod. The reason you want to allow the sway bar to rotate freely through it's mount is to not introduce any friction (dampening) into the system. Friction(dampening) is handled by the shock absorbers.

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