Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2018

    Questionable Smoldering quality

    ok, this is a bit weird. I first went into my first Traxxas on march 16, 2018. I haven't been really driving this thing that hard. since the purchase, I rarely crashed the truck, and besides from a set of rusted bearings, I haven't broken any other parts.

    but since then, stuff has happened. while driving on the sidewalk of my house, my battery smoked and shorted. I got a new venom battery because of that. and now a connection between the ESC and the battery connector. l'm still a kid, but my dad helps me solder the connectors on. I got the 1/16 slash, Brushed.

    I'm just wondering if any of you have the same problem, or why I'm having these problems. this is WAY beyond Traxxas' 30-day warranty btw. I felt better posting here then the 1/16 slash+E-revo place because to be honest, a lot of people their just say to upgrade to LIPO, Brushless. I got this after saving up for a considerable amout of time, so no going to brushless so soon yet.

    Well, if you see this, thank you for checking out the post. I hope I can get some answers, so on.

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    New York
    I ended up with four batteries that arrived with no connectors soldered and Deans t-plug as well as XT60 connectors provided as a choice. I looked at the Deans and didn't think that the surface area was what I felt was enough to secure the wire so I drilled holes through the tabs. That worked well enough but after putting shrink tubing on to cover all the exposed wire/tab (three layers, one on each individual wire, then two over both wires and the connector), there is no flexibility. With an adapter to go from the Deans t-plug to the traxxas connector on the ESC, you end up with a few inches that of inflexible straight cabling/connectors that isn't easy to work with. There isn't much room for it at the back of a Merv.

    Bought some Traxxas connectors and soldered them on the other two batteries. Didn't drill holes in the tabs, isn't enough room for that in the connector anyway. I watched a few videos and found that they can be soldered without the hole, that I was just going overboard. The two connectors I did solder like that definitely aren't coming apart any time soon.

    What I did concentrate on while going through the whole process was making sure that there was no exposed lead/wire in the connector that could allow a short. I also concentrated on avoiding cold solder joints. Those will allow the wire to break free from the connector. Using a good soldering iron and having the right tip on it is also important. I typically solder items much smaller than battery connectors. Had to swap the tip I was using to a larger one which allows more/faster heat transfer.

    Here's a video I thought was well done.

    It covers the basics well and provides a guide that should for a good soldering technique.

    Something to also keep in mind is that when you're working with a battery only one lead should be exposed at any given time. Cover the other side with some electrical tape to avoid a short between the leads that would cause bad things to happen.

    Practicing with some extra wire and connectors will help develop your soldering skills.

    It's hard to say exactly what caused your battery to short. Using a solid soldering technique can help avoid those problems, but it isn't the only factor, either. The battery itself could have had a manufacturing flaw. I'd check the soldering done on the ESC connector. That's the logical thing to do seeing you soldered the connector there.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Last edited by Cody2462; 02-10-2019 at 04:11 PM. Reason: (deleting message)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts