Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 71 of 71
  1. #41
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    402
    Quote Originally Posted by MrTbone90 View Post
    I have read alot of people have issues running their rustler vxl 4x4 on 3s and breaking the stock plastic driveshafts. What has everyone found to be the better upgrade out of all the different brands to go with? I saw someone used the MIP, traxxas slash metals and they were relatively cheap. Would y'all mind send part numbers with your recommendations as well please?
    The tekno's (which are what i use) are good for racing and bashing, as long as you do not crash 50 times per bash day. If you want something really heavy duty, get the mip's. If you are just racing, get the traxxas ones. The stock plastic driveshafts do perfectly fine in the front, it is the rear ones that break. Best bang for your buck= tekno's. Overall best= MIP's. Best for racing, very light bashing, speed runs= traxxas cvds.

  2. #42
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    10
    How are the GPM's?

  3. #43
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by NitroStarGT View Post
    I just bought a front set of GPM brand cvd's for the front of my Slash or Rustler. Have decided which one to put them on LOL. I believe they are the same size??
    How are the GPM's?

  4. #44
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    7
    I need new ones, tekno look the way to go. Twisting the axle shaft out the fronts on 3s. Way too much torque on the stock plastic ones with the front end coming up and then down. Ripped front wheel clean off

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    If racing, get the Tekno M6s.

    If bashing, get the MIP X-Dutys.

    If not sure, get the MIPs.

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  6. #46
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    719
    If racing, also consider an XO-1 driveshaft conversion. Like the Tekno MY, the Traxxas XO-1 driveshafts are also 6mm.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    304
    The drive shaft is a tough choice as it is. If you run 17mm wheels at all, each brand has its own set up so the 17mm hub adapter you already have? It wonít work with another brand. I have 6cars with either 6856x or 5853x adapters, if I were to get MIPS then in addition to 140 dollars for the drive shafts I need to spend another 35 on 17mm hubs. Tekno got its own thing going too with the M6ís stub axles.

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    719
    The great thing about going with the XO-1 conversion is that it's already running 17mm hex, so you don't don't need to use a 12mm-to-17mm conversion hex.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    304
    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    The great thing about going with the XO-1 conversion is that it's already running 17mm hex, so you don't don't need to use a 12mm-to-17mm conversion hex.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    Is there a way to use my existing traxxas aluminum caster blocks and bearing carriers without having to buy the xo-1 parts? The rear carriers alone costs 70 dollars since they sell package of 1.5 and 3.5 degree ones one side at a time Ebay chopshops don’t have xo-1 parts very often

  10. #50
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    719
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Is there a way to use my existing traxxas aluminum caster blocks and bearing carriers without having to buy the xo-1 parts? The rear carriers alone costs 70 dollars since they sell package of 1.5 and 3.5 degree ones one side at a time Ebay chopshops don’t have xo-1 parts very often
    The best...and only...answer I can give you is this link:

    https://traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4-driveshafts

    Although Traxxas originally put the info up for the Slash 4x4, it also applies to the Rustler 4x4, Stampede 4X4, and Rally VXL...and (possibly) any other Traxxas vehicles using the same parts as these.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    You can use Hot Racing's 12mm to 17mm hub adapters on both Tekno and MIP CVDs.

    They come in 6mm or 10mm offsets.

    As mentioned before, the X0-1 is already 17mm and does not need an adapter.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  12. #52
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,441
    I have had the same set of MIP X-Duty's on my stampede 4x4 (same as you use on the rustler I believe) for 2 years. Most of which was 2S running though, I've only been running 3S in it since September of last year. So far so good!
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  13. #53
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    1
    So the X-01 driveshafts fit on the rustler 4◊4?

  14. #54
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by Boren View Post
    So the X-01 driveshafts fit on the rustler 4◊4?
    Yes.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jtYSPg0Q4Y

  15. #55
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    1
    I'm considering getting TKR6851X for the front and TKR6852X for the rear of my Rustler 4x4 VXL. I just want to make sure that they're going to be compatible. Can anyone confirm if they'll work?

  16. #56
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,570
    If they fit the Slash 4x4 they will fit the Rustler 4x4. The arms, links and shafts are the same length and they use the same axle carriers/hubs.
    Last edited by Double G; 08-12-2019 at 03:20 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #57
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Van. Island British Columbia
    Posts
    849
    Quote Originally Posted by UrickHunt101 View Post
    I'm considering getting TKR6851X for the front and TKR6852X for the rear of my Rustler 4x4 VXL. I just want to make sure that they're going to be compatible. Can anyone confirm if they'll work?
    You could also go with the 6851A extreme heavy duty front and 6852A rear if that interests you. I just installed these on our 4x4 Stampede.

  18. #58
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,570
    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    You could also go with the 6851A extreme heavy duty front and 6852A rear if that interests you. I just installed these on our 4x4 Stampede.
    If I recall the Rustler already comes with the "A" version. He is referencing Tekno parts. I was confused at first but Tekno uses Traxxas's part numbers for similar products (hence the "TKR..."). Do a search online for "6851X" and you get hits on Traxxas's and Tekno's websites. Pretty smart on many accounts from a business perspective.
    The Super Derecho

  19. #59
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Van. Island British Columbia
    Posts
    849
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    If I recall the Rustler already comes with the "A" version. He is referencing Tekno parts. I was confused at first but Tekno uses Traxxas's part numbers for similar products (hence the "TKR..."). Do a search online for "6851X" and you get hits on Traxxas's and Tekno's websites. Pretty smart on many accounts from a business perspective.
    Wow that almosts seems shady lol I just installed the Traxxas ones on Wednesday and thought hey pass the info on they seem great lol. Thank you for the heads up I'll have to pay more attention.

  20. #60
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    38
    MIP X-Duty are awesome. Yes they're spendy, but they're worth it.

  21. #61
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    276
    I also consider to get traxxas 6851r or the MIP 10132 Front X-Duty CVD Kit.
    Itís for hard bashing with huge jumps.
    Wonder if the traxxas or the mip taking the extra beat?
    So far we have the traxxas cvd at rear and it have worked fine for two years.
    But the front do get more beat when it land bad i think...
    Price is the same for both where im order it from.

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    I've used trx cvds on 2wd slash on 3s for years no problems.

    I've used mip xduties on p4de bashers on 4s-6s and in 4 years, with reg maintenance only lost barrel nut and pin once. It happens but they sell rebuild kits. Stinks they went up in price but well worth it imo.

    So my vxl on 3s im still split, use Trx cvds or give Teknos a try or else I'll steal xduties off my roller in grave yard. No ramp jumping just yard and street bashing.
    Last edited by Briber; 09-25-2019 at 11:01 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  23. #63
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    719
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    I've used trx cvds on 2wd slash on 3s for years no problems.

    I've used mip xduties on p4de bashers on 4s-6s and in 4 years, with reg maintenance only lost barrel nut and pin once. It happens but they sell rebuild kits. Stinks they went up in price but well worth it imo.

    So my vxl on 3s im still split, use Trx cvds or give Teknos a try or else I'll steal xduties off my roller in grave yard. No ramp jumping just yard and street bashing.
    I know the feeling, as I'm currently using the CVD (6851R & 6852R) on one of my Rusty 4x4s, as well as my Sl4sh (my other Rusty is currently running the stock drive-train, but I'm wanting to swap those, too). Right now, my first Rusty is in the final stages of a "conversion", and I've been considering swapping the CVDs for something else. I should mention that my Traxxas vehicles are all for track...albeit, not necessarily 'race' (indoor clay track, with 2S battery 'limit') use. Initially, I was considering the MIP Race Duty CVDs, but there's been a lot of somewhat-recent bad reviews on them. So, I started considering the Tekno M6 (TKR6851X for front, TKR6852X for rear), which has a larger 6mm axle. I thought I finally had it figured out...until another option came to light - the XO-1 driveshaft conversion (https://traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4-driveshafts).

    However, even more recently, I discovered some older threads in the Traxxas forum, talking about a Tekno/XO-1 'hybrid' setup:

    Tekno with XO-1
    MIP vs Tekno vs XO-1

    After reading both of these threads, this is starting to sound like a better (smarter?) possibility. The only "catch" with the hybrid setup appears to be needing to replace the stock A-arms with the Pro-Line ProTrac Suspension Kit (PRO6082-00, which I'm running on my Sl4sh, along with the Traxxas 6851R/6852R CVDs...tho, they are almost fully-extended). This is because the axles are moved out by 4mm per side (making the vehicle 8mm wider. The ProTrac kit "solves" this, by using longer A-arms, as well as SCT wheels with a different offset. This "corrects" the problem, as the included wheels have a -4mm offset.

    Unfortunately, there are two potential "downsides" (for some) to the Tekno M6/Traxxas XO-1/Pro-Line ProTrac 'hybrid' solution. The first is that you'd have to change tires, as the ProTrac wheels use SCT 2.2"/3" tires. Honestly, this is a very minor "inconvenience...I've been running SCT wheels & tires on my Rusty for a while, and they're great. The second...and slighter bigger "problem"...is that Pro_line has discontinued the ProTrac Suspension Kit for the Slash 4x4 (but, interestingly, the 2WD kit is not discontinued). Thankfully, several retailers, including AMain Hobbies, still have plenty in stock. If after reading the two hybrid' threads, this sounds like a good idea, I'd highly suggest purchasing 1-2 ProTrac kits as soon as possible...and possibly some spare ProTrac A-arms & wheels. I already have one ProTrac kit, but I'll be buying 1-2 more, plus a few wheel sets, and (maybe) even 2-4 sets of spare A-arms...just in case. I'm not trying to be a proponent of Pro-Line products, but I can say the kit contains high-quality parts, and works extremely well with Traxxas parts (tho, as mentioned above, in using the ProTrac kit with the Traxxas 6851R & 6852R, the Traxxas driveshafts are almost fully extended).
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  24. #64
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    20
    I just went with the Tekno for bashing.

    On 3s with MX28 and 11/54 I snap an outer stub every run.

    At least I used up all my spares

  25. #65
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    282
    I'm hoping anyone using the Tekno shafts with the newer Traxxas 3655R A arms can confirm they are holding up ok, and no bent shafts?

    From what I can tell the newer arms are about 1mm shorter than the old 3655X arms.

    When moving the old arms through their travel, the end of the Tekno dogbones comes fairly close to bottoming out in the outdrive cup.

    Just wondering if Rusty or Slash 4x4 owners using the Tekno shafts can confirm that there is still enough clearance there to work fine?

    Cheers!

  26. #66
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    I'm hoping anyone using the Tekno shafts with the newer Traxxas 3655R A arms can confirm they are holding up ok, and no bent shafts?

    From what I can tell the newer arms are about 1mm shorter than the old 3655X arms.

    When moving the old arms through their travel, the end of the Tekno dogbones comes fairly close to bottoming out in the outdrive cup.

    Just wondering if Rusty or Slash 4x4 owners using the Tekno shafts can confirm that there is still enough clearance there to work fine?

    Cheers!
    On a Rustler 4x4 I am tearing up front 3655R arms on every run.

    I removed the MX28's and went back to the stock LP, kept the 11/54 and 3S.

    Running medium to fairly hard on mowed grass (zero jumps) I am twisting / warping / pulling pins on the front suspension arms. Rear arms zero problems. Dog bones and cups zero problems.

    Front arms trashed, one every run.
    Last edited by VeryOldGuy; 10-17-2019 at 09:11 AM.

  27. #67
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    282
    Thanks for the reply mate, appreciate it.

    That's great to hear on the shafts, but not so good on the arms.

    Have you tried the older arms? I've only used the older and are yet to try the new arms. They do break occasionally but definitely have not been as bad for me as what you are describing. I did have one strangely shatter into 4 pieces soon after it was installed, but that has been the only anomaly. I'm running trenchers and MX28's on fairly close to stock weight trucks.

    That still wouldn't help with the pin problem though. Don't know what's going on there?

  28. #68
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Thanks for the reply mate, appreciate it.

    That's great to hear on the shafts, but not so good on the arms.

    Have you tried the older arms? I've only used the older and are yet to try the new arms. They do break occasionally but definitely have not been as bad for me as what you are describing. I did have one strangely shatter into 4 pieces soon after it was installed, but that has been the only anomaly. I'm running trenchers and MX28's on fairly close to stock weight trucks.

    That still wouldn't help with the pin problem though. Don't know what's going on there?
    I have not tried the older yet, but to me these newer ones seem soft. These do the opposite of shatter...

    Mine stretch, mine twist, mine elongate holes, and then finally the pin will pull through leaving a straight crack.

    My first reaction is to blame the material as it does seem softer or more pliable than normal, but I really haven't dug into what is going on yet

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    282
    Thatís interesting. It might be worth diving a set of the old ones a try on the front, see how they go?

    I thought from your previous post you were breaking pins. That had me perplexed.

    I did try RPM arms with the Tekno once. Personally I didnít like how wobbly they were, plus Tekno does advise against them as that flex leads to troubles with the shafts.

  30. #70
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    20
    Yeah this little beast seems to be a torque monster even when compared to other Rustler 4x4's

    I switched to the tekno because it was snapping stubs and twisting shafts.

    But on 3s and stock gears and on grass it tears things up long before I get to the point of hard bashing that I am able to do with my other cars... and they dont break much even then... unless I screw up.

    This one acts more like I stuffed in a 6s and have no throttle control...

    I will try the older arms eventually. I've got a couple of others I am dialing in modifications on and a kit I'm building so this one is sort of on the back burner right now except for quick parts swaps.

  31. #71
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    282
    Good stuff

    Look forward to hearing how you get on.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •