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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Can i use a set of beedlock rims with those?
    They should fit on proline split six

  2. #42
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    Hereís A thread that I started about the savox 1210sg servo people advised against me using it in my slash 4x4 ultimate.
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...avox-SW-1210sg

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Day3rd View Post
    Hereís A thread that I started about the savox 1210sg servo people advised against me using it in my slash 4x4 ultimate.
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...avox-SW-1210sg
    The other servo mentioned is much faster. However, I can tell you that in my general bashing conditions with 2.8Ē trenchers and a very heavy truck, the speed is plenty for me. Iím very happy with it. Itís nearly instant.

    Savox does offer a 1211 that has increased speed and less torque, but the hitec one would be a better option if you are looking For a more speed.


    Also, Iím fairly certain that the servo mentioned was a hitec hsb-9360th which retails for $170. Also, only runs up to 6V. At 7.4V with the 1211 you will have slightly less speed and much more torque and for much much cheaper.

    If your racing with small tires and a light rig, the 1211 would be a good choice. If general bashing and might / do have a large rig the torque would be better.

    Read more carefully, you already have it! Just put it in and enjoy it. Itís a very nice servo!

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    Last edited by ati; 02-19-2019 at 11:40 PM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    The other servo mentioned is much faster. However, I can tell you that in my general bashing conditions with 2.8” trenchers and a very heavy truck, the speed is plenty for me. I’m very happy with it. It’s nearly instant.

    Savox does offer a 1211 that has increased speed and less torque, but the hitec one would be a better option if you are looking For a more speed.


    Also, I’m fairly certain that the servo mentioned was a hitec hsb-9360th which retails for $170. Also, only runs up to 6V. At 7.4V with the 1211 you will have slightly less speed and much more torque and for much much cheaper.

    If your racing with small tires and a light rig, the 1211 would be a good choice. If general bashing and might / do have a large rig the torque would be better.

    Read more carefully, you already have it! Just put it in and enjoy it. It’s a very nice servo!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    So do you run a savox 1210 servo right now? And if so do you need an external bec?

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Day3rd View Post
    So do you run a savox 1210 servo right now? And if so do you need an external bec?
    You donít need a BEC if your running a 2s. But if you want to run it at below or above 7.4V, you will need a BEC.

    I use my internal castle BEC. I run it at 7.5V because I run on 3s.

    What system do you have?

  6. #46
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    Also, Iím fairly certain that the servo mentioned was a hitec hsb-9360th which retails for $170. Also, only runs up to 6V.
    Correct...and incorrect. You are correct in regards to the model of the servo I mentioned...but, you are incorrect in that it "maxes out" at 6V. The 0.08sec speed I mentioned is @ 6V, but, at 7.4V (it's max), it's 0.06sec. As for the price, yes, it's wickedly expensive, but it's also wickedly fast, with aluminum case (plastic top/bottom), and titanium gears. That being said, while I'll probably be using Hitec servos in my Slash 4x4 & Rustler 4x4 chassis projects, I'm going to be putting a Savox in my TLR 8ight-XE.

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    Last edited by Panther6834; 02-20-2019 at 11:18 AM.
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Correct...and incorrect. You are correct in regards to the model of the servo I mentioned...but, you are incorrect in that it "maxes out" at 6V. The 0.08sec speed I mentioned is @ 6V, but, at 7.4V (it's max), it's 0.06sec. As for the price, yes, it's wickedly expensive, but it's also wickedly fast, with aluminum case (plastic top/bottom), and titanium gears. That being said, while I'll probably be using Hitec servos in my Slash 4x4 & Rustler 4x4 chassis projects, I'm going to be putting a Savox in my TLR 8ight-XE.

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    Sorry, on their servo chart they didnt have specs listed for 7.4V. They had 4.8, and 6V listed.

    Disregard that. Not sure what I was looking at but i found the correct specs.

    And titanium gears are stronger, but I havenít had a problem with my steel gears.
    Last edited by ati; 02-20-2019 at 11:53 AM.

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    Sorry, on their servo chart they didnt have specs listed for 7.4V. They had 4.8, and 6V listed.

    Disregard that. Not sure what I was looking at but i found the correct specs.

    And titanium gears are stronger, but I havenít had a problem with my steel gears.
    That strange...VERY strange...because, when I check their site, it ONLY lists 6V & 7.4V. There is no '4.8V' mentioned. As for the steel vs titanium gears, yea, depending on your use, you might not ever notice a difference. As my first Rusty will see both street & track use (but little racing, due to my other three projects), I felt the titanium gears were work the extra cost...the same with the aluminum case.

    However, as the other three vehicles (until I build up my 5th & 6th vehicles...one SC truck & one buggy...both of which will be my first 2WD vehicles) are intended for track/race-only, they will all user steel-gear servos, probably with plastic cases. Already purchased the first one (Savox, along with a HW ESC & motor), for use in the 8ight-XE. Now, if only the other parts for that buggy would arrive (a few of them are being delivered today), I could build the darn thing.

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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    That strange...VERY strange...because, when I check their site, it ONLY lists 6V & 7.4V. There is no '4.8V' mentioned. As for the steel vs titanium gears, yea, depending on your use, you might not ever notice a difference. As my first Rusty will see both street & track use (but little racing, due to my other three projects), I felt the titanium gears were work the extra cost...the same with the aluminum case.

    However, as the other three vehicles (until I build up my 5th & 6th vehicles...one SC truck & one buggy...both of which will be my first 2WD vehicles) are intended for track/race-only, they will all user steel-gear servos, probably with plastic cases. Already purchased the first one (Savox, along with a HW ESC & motor), for use in the 8ight-XE. Now, if only the other parts for that buggy would arrive (a few of them are being delivered today), I could build the darn thing.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    Seems to me like a high speed lower torque would be better for track...

    Yea, my bad I just read wrong. Your right about voltage.


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  10. #50
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    Seems to me like a high speed lower torque would be better for track...

    Yea, my bad I just read wrong. Your right about voltage.


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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    Seems to me like a high speed lower torque would be better for track.
    That depends entirely on what you're racing, and what you're racing on. Starting with speed, honestly, between on- & off-road, and between 2WD & 4WD, I don't know. As for torque...off-road racing requires more torque than flat-track racing. Also, a 4WD (on-, or off-road) would need higher torque than 2WD, as the front end is doing steering AND propulsion duties.

    Think of it this way - a spinning wheel requires more inertia to turn than a stationary wheel, plus a spinning wheel under power requires more inertia to turn than a freely spinning wheel. There's a few fantastic science experiments you can do which proves both points. The Exploritorium, in San Francisco used to (it might still be there) have an example of one, which used a bicycle wheel/tire mounted to a rod that you held.

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  11. #51
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    I agree that a 2wd does not need as much torque.

    I donít race and am not certain, but it seems that racing is usually done with light rigs and smaller tires.

    It seems like more speed would be better since the rig is lighter than a basher would be. I purposely chose more torque. (1210 over 1211) for my heavy and upgraded basher.

    But I could be wrong.
    Last edited by ati; 02-20-2019 at 01:21 PM.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ati View Post
    You don’t need a BEC if your running a 2s. But if you want to run it at below or above 7.4V, you will need a BEC.

    I use my internal castle BEC. I run it at 7.5V because I run on 3s.

    What system do you have?
    I just have the stock system currently in my slash 4x4 and I am running a 2s Lipo.

  13. #53
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I got the aluminum hex hubs installed. Now on to the next hopup.

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  14. #54
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Next im installing a HOT RACING servo arm and bearing to replace the bushing in the bellcrank.

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  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I got the aluminum hex hubs installed. Now on to the next hopup.

    Sent from my SM-J327R4 using Tapatalk
    Are you going to shim the front shocks away from the shock tower to eliminate the contact between the spring and camber link that happens as the suspension cycles????

  16. #56
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-N-T View Post
    Are you going to shim the front shocks away from the shock tower to eliminate the contact between the spring and camber link that happens as the suspension cycles????
    That's exactly what I had to do, when I installed the Pro-Line ProSpec shocks on my Rustler 4x4.

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  17. #57
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I do have some different sizes spacers i can use. So i might. I do have clearance though from the camber link and the drive shaft. If you look at the first picture you can see the space between them.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  18. #58
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    F.y.i to people the slash ultimate comes with bearings instead of bushing in the bellcrank. I awesomed it was like the two stampedes i have. So no need to wonder or change them out. Unless you want to put metal shielded bearings in or ceramic bearings. Unfortunately to the metal servo arm i have from HOT RACING doesn't fit with the lcg chassis. Does anyone know a good servo arm thatll fit?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    F.y.i to people the slash ultimate comes with bearings instead of bushing in the bellcrank. I awesomed it was like the two stampedes i have. So no need to wonder or change them out. Unless you want to put metal shielded bearings in or ceramic bearings. Unfortunately to the metal servo arm i have from HOT RACING doesn't fit with the lcg chassis. Does anyone know a good servo arm thatll fit?
    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SLF25SH06;c=805

  20. #60
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  21. #61
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    I use Losi's TLR1557:

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...lr1557/p203507

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  22. #62
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    This is the one I used on my new Ultimate along with the STRC bellcrank parts. All of the parts fit great.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-N-T View Post
    This is the one I used on my new Ultimate along with the STRC bellcrank parts. All of the parts fit great.
    I use it with hot racingís bell crank. Love both. The strc one felt a bit sloppier for me.

  24. #64
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Thank you guys. I think im gonna go with the hot racing one maybe still thinking. Now do any of you think it makes a difference even a slight difference by having a metal/aluminum servo horn compared to the stock plastic horn?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Thank you guys. I think im gonna go with the hot racing one maybe still thinking. Now do any of you think it makes a difference even a slight difference by having a metal/aluminum servo horn compared to the stock plastic horn?
    If the whole steering system is metal there is no planned break point. Mine is all metal except for the servo horn still using stock. I even have the losi one purchased and waiting in my parts bin but I like having one point planned to break if something happens. And the servo horn is a cheap part. Other than that nothing really.

  26. #66
    RC Competitor T-N-T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    If the whole steering system is metal there is no planned break point. Mine is all metal except for the servo horn still using stock. I even have the losi one purchased and waiting in my parts bin but I like having one point planned to break if something happens. And the servo horn is a cheap part. Other than that nothing really.
    Well there is the servo saver in the steering linkage, which is designed to help protect against breaking steering parts and the servo.

    I have my bell cranks servo saver adjusted so it isn't tightened too tight and is lubed with some light synthetic grease so it moves freely when needed. My servo also uses metal gears.

  27. #67
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I have the hot racing bellcrank in bothe my p4des along with metal servo horns and i have them both greased with tlr high temp grease/black grease. My slash 4x4 still has the stock bellcrank and i didn't noticed a difference really between those and the slash when it came to steering. Having something stronger though would be nice. Im going to stick with hot racing when i do get a chance to buy a bellcrank. I wish traxxas made a metal/aluminum bellcrank for 4x4's.

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  28. #68
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Now on to the new shocks. These ones are stiffer than the stock ones. Reason why im going this route is i run 3s 8000mah batteries that are heavy and in the near future im switching out the vxl-3s esc and motor to a castle creations 2200kv and mamba monster x esc.

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  29. #69
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    The front shock springs are finally replaced with stiffer springs. Im working on the rear ones now.

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  30. #70
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Alrighty I got the rear shock springs on and put back on.

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  31. #71
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Now im changing the stock slipper clutch to thw revo slipper clutch with aluminum pads. Since i have the rear out im also going to be replacing the rpm. Reason being for the rpm sensor, when i bought my slash 4x4 ultimate the rpm sensor wires are cut. Thank you to TRAXXAS for replacing that.

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  32. #72
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Got the slipper clutch together and put back in. Now onto the rpm sensor.

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  33. #73
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I got the new rpm sensor installed and spur complete and in. Now onto the last hopup i have for now. Its the MYTRICKRC DG-1 Lighting kit.

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  34. #74
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I got a little distracted and got these mirrors from TRAXXAS. Im going to put them on my slash 4x4 ultimate, give it a little more character along with the light kit. I got the front l.e.d light bar installed to. Pictures of that and the rest of the mirror and light install ill be posting soon.

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  35. #75
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Personally I would wait a few runs before putting the side mirrors on. Because it is real common to roll over sideways and the first time them mirrors are toast. Just saying you might want to get the first few crash over before putting them on. Unless you do plan to only got about 5 mph but with the MMX 2200kv combo in the future I doubt it.

  36. #76
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Right now its still the traxxas vxl-3s setup. Even still you are right. Thats sort of why i haven't put them on yet. But for the 2200kv motor and mamba monster x esc thats going to be atleast a month or so before i get it. I was thinking of getting a new pro-line Toyota tundra trd body and asking one of GeneralPede's buddy to paint it.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  37. #77
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    That's a good looking body!

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  38. #78
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Honestly cause of you posting that on your thread is what got me to want one over the proline 2019 Chevy body. It is a sweet looking body. I how you can make it look so real. I just need to find someone who is amazing at painting bodies. I can do anything to a rc just painting im not setup especially where I live. If you know anyone please let me know.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  39. #79
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    [X] Enabler Mode

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  40. #80
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    [X] Enabler Mode

    Huh, enabler mode? I don't get that. Sorry.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

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