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  1. #121
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    One of my hopups arrived today. RC SCREWZ. Im going to put these on this weekend. Hopefully the rest will be in Monday.

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  2. #122
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    RC Planet is awesome. 3 days and my order arrived. RPM nurf bars, Hot Racing shock spacers, and a blue antenna wire.

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  3. #123
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Nice! Almost done?

    ...as if these thing are ever really done.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  4. #124
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Nice! Almost done?

    ...as if these thing are ever really done.
    Lol. After these few hopups ill be done for now. Im looking into getting a CC mamba monster x esc and 2200kv motor soon and maybe turning it into a BACKSLASH. I also have rpm front and rear a-arms but im not sure which are better. The ones that come stock with the slash 4x4 ultimate or the ones from RPM. What do you think?
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  5. #125
    RC Competitor T-N-T's Avatar
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    The stock arms on the new Ultimate seem to be the winner in my book.

  6. #126
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I was thinking that to. They seem more durable and flexible. I just wanted others opinion cause i have yet to run it except in the house for a minute to check out the telemetry sensors. Thanks for your opinion.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  7. #127
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I finally finished the install of the new RPM nurf bars, HOT RACING Aluminum standoffs, and RCSCREWZ. Pictures will be posted later today. I was wondering though will a castle creations 2200kv motor fit into the slash 4x4 ultimate without any modifications? If modifying is needed is it like the P4DE. Cause I have a castle creations 2650kv motor with a mamba monster x esc and i had to dermal a little bit to get that to fit in my p4de along with making a custom esc and receiver bracket.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  8. #128
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    My slash 4x4 with the RCSCREWZ, RPM Nurf bars, and Hot Racing Shock Standoff. Im really waiting to know if a CC mamba monster x esc and 2200kv motor will fit or is there some modifications needed?

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  9. #129
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if you can buy just the spring for the slipper clutch or do you have to buy the whole kit 5552X?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  10. #130
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Does anyone know if you can buy just the spring for the slipper clutch or do you have to buy the whole kit 5552X?
    Normally, it's probably the kit...but, if you call Traxxas support, they can probably tell you the individual part number, as well as ship it to you (tho, probably not for free, but it's better than paying for the kit...unless you want spare parts, just in case).

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  11. #131
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    @NOFTCHX

    Can you control your light kit on Traxxas app ?
    Traxxas support can't say anything exactly.

    I love these leds

  12. #132
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkee View Post
    @NOFTCHX

    Can you control your light kit on Traxxas app ?
    Traxxas support can't say anything exactly.

    I love these leds
    Thank you first off. You can not control, turn the leds on and off with the app unfortunately. I was really hoping that'd work. It still. Says on the app the there isn't a traxxas amplifier connected. Shortly im going to buy Traxxas Trx-4 LED Light Power Supply 8028 Tra8028. Im hoping that will work. Ive heard/read people with the trx-4 with that power supply are able to use their lights through the traxxas app. So for the time being i am able to use my spektrum dx4c Transmitter with the avc receiver i have to make it work with turning the lights on and off. I have avc disabled and the led kit plugged into the first auxiliary channel on the receiver. It kind of stinks cause my sl4shes ultimate has telemetry so its either use one controller to be able to see the telemetry and adjust settings on the fly or use another just to turn the lights on and off. I can still adjust every setting possible with the dx4c but no telemetry. Which is one of the main reasons i just bought the new slash 4x4 ultimate. Itd be great if traxxas can make a firmware for the leds to be controlled by the app or do something so you can utilize everything from the transmitter.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Thank you first off. You can not control, turn the leds on and off with the app unfortunately. I was really hoping that'd work. It still. Says on the app the there isn't a traxxas amplifier connected. Shortly im going to buy Traxxas Trx-4 LED Light Power Supply 8028 Tra8028. Im hoping that will work. Ive heard/read people with the trx-4 with that power supply are able to use their lights through the traxxas app.

    Which is one of the main reasons i just bought the new slash 4x4 ultimate. Itd be great if traxxas can make a firmware for the leds to be controlled by the app or do something so you can utilize everything from the transmitter.
    Iím hoping like you too it works on you because I have plans for my Slash like yours, as you said if traxxas makes led sytem for slash , ıím sure it sell more than the other kits. Because Slash holders upwards of Trx4 and Udr owners.

    Iím thinking on , If I make a home-made nice quality led system with soldering , I wonder if this is compatible with traxxas amplifier ? (Connectors must be same with amplifer also)

    Iím not stingy i just love doing things like custom made by only me


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  14. #134
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    Brand New Slash 4x4 Build Into Slash/Backslash

    And Iíve readed you are asking, what happen if this car rolls over.
    It seems like nice durabilty .

    https://youtu.be/nJ0SZLRARRU


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  15. #135
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    It should work. I solder my own led light System's all the time. I buy the leds, resistors, and wire. Than i lay out how I want my system. Make sure each led light has its own resistor soldered to it. Im wire them up to work off the receiver, 9v, on/off switch or battery pack depending. As long as you do it right you'll be fine and it should work. Ad far as turning it on and off you'll need to get a led kit that has that option or buy a on/off light switch that you have to solder to your battery leads. INTEGY makes a good one.

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  16. #136
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkee View Post
    And Iíve readed you are asking, what happen if this car rolls over.
    It seems like nice durabilty .

    https://youtu.be/nJ0SZLRARRU


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    Wow guess they can with stand a true beating. If i roll or flip over my sl4sh im concerned that the screws and nuts holding the body can rip through. I have washers on it as well. I do need to get shoe goo or something like it to glow the leds to the headlight bezels. So they stop falling out. Ive ran the truck twice and both times some of the lights popped out. Even just handling the body. Even mytrickrc reccomends shoe gooing them.

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  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    It should work. I solder my own led light System's all the time. I buy the leds, resistors, and wire. Than i lay out how I want my system. Make sure each led light has its own resistor soldered to it. Im wire them up to work off the receiver, 9v, on/off switch or battery pack depending. As long as you do it right you'll be fine and it should work. Ad far as turning it on and off you'll need to get a led kit that has that option or buy a on/off light switch that you have to solder to your battery leads. INTEGY makes a good one.

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    My plan is headlight system , i donít want to use battery pack . I want wireless controlled system so should it work with Traxxas amplifier ?

    I think if your leds work with it , any unbranded (homemade) system will work.

    What about resistors , which resistors you used in your project ?

    I think it will be fine when everything is correctly planned.

    Iím waiting to try your leds with Traxxas app.

    Thanks for kind answer


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  18. #138
    RC Qualifier zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkee View Post
    My plan is headlight system , i don’t want to use battery pack . I want wireless controlled system so should it work with Traxxas amplifier ?

    I think if your leds work with it , any unbranded (homemade) system will work.

    What about resistors , which resistors you used in your project ?

    I think it will be fine when everything is correctly planned.

    I’m waiting to try your leds with Traxxas app.

    Thanks for kind answer


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    You will need an LED control module to have any kind of wireless control of the LEDs because the Traxxas receiver won't turn them on/off.

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    You will need an LED control module to have any kind of wireless control of the LEDs because the Traxxas receiver won't turn them on/off.

    Dear NOFTCHX will try to control mytrickrc led bar with Traxxas amplifier.
    If he can (we hope so),everyone can do the same .
    I want to control with app if itís possible.


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  20. #140
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    You will need an LED control module to have any kind of wireless control of the LEDs because the Traxxas receiver won't turn them on/off.
    Your right the receiver wont. Thats why you need a traxxas amplifier. If you do some research you'll see that the traxxas trx-4 and the new traxxas UDR your able to control light function through the app do to the led amplifier that those two models come with. Also the mytrickrc dg-1 lighting system is able to be controlled on/off functions through a 3rd channel on the receiver as long as you have a Transmitter that has a 3rd and or 4th function. I know cause it works with my spektrum dx4c and receiver.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  21. #141
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkee View Post
    Dear NOFTCHX will try to control mytrickrc led bar with Traxxas amplifier.
    If he can (we hope so),everyone can do the same .
    I want to control with app if itís possible.


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    Im hoping with in the next two weeks or less I'll have the traxxas amplifier and as soon as I do and have it installed ill post the results. Im really hoping it'll work so I won't be stuck with a paper weight. It's worth trying though so at least everyone else will know and they won't be scratching their heads or spending unnecessary money.

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  22. #142
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Berkee, i have this led/resistor kit:

    https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Electr...63336059&psc=1

    You have everything you basically need, even leds. Im happy with that kit. If thats to much you could go with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Resistor-Asso...47753543&psc=1

    Personally I'd buy the resistor/led kit that I got, the first website option. Either way you choose i hope this helped you out. Let me know how it goes. I found this kit as well: https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Values...1JVH9GF8AWY2P3

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  23. #143
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    Brand New Slash 4x4 Build Into Slash/Backslash

    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Berkee, i have this led/resistor kit:

    https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Electr...63336059&psc=1

    You have everything you basically need, even leds. Im happy with that kit. If thats to much you could go with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Resistor-Asso...47753543&psc=1

    Personally I'd buy the resistor/led kit that I got, the first website option. Either way you choose i hope this helped you out. Let me know how it goes. I found this kit as well: https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Values...1JVH9GF8AWY2P3

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    Thanks for your suggestions. I will save these links for use when purchasing.
    I used the resistor always on my projects but I thought you said something diffrent.( wrong understand to you

    I hope you will succeed in your project
    Thanks.


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  24. #144
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkee View Post
    Thanks for your suggestions. I will save these links for use when purchasing.
    I used the resistor always on my projects but I thought you said something diffrent.( wrong understand to you

    I hope you will succeed in your project
    Thanks.


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    No worries just wanting to help. Glad were on the same page now. I hope it works to fingers crossed. By Friday next week it should be in and ill post the results for you and everyone else. I'll be stoked if it does work. After researching the UDR AND TRX-4 I can't see why it wouldn't work. I have the same Transmitter and receiver that those both come with. Just missing the amplifier that goes with those two. I know right now Traxxas is giving away the UDR light kit system for free when you buy a UDR. Which is a sweet deal
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  25. #145
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Had the buying bug. Bought a few goodis, some spur and pinion gears for speed running in my p4de along with some springs to if they work with the slipper clutch. For my sl4sh theres a jconcepts shock limiting kit, pinion gear, front and rear heavy duty diff housings ( spider gears with i-bar coming) and some team associated springs to see if they'll work with the slipper clutch.

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  26. #146
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Its crazy. I ordered all that Sunday night from AMainHobbies.com and here it is Wednesday and everything has arrived. Wow fast shipping from Texas to New Hampshire. Only took two and a half days. Good news to one of the team associated slipper clutch springs i bought apears to look like it'd fit the traxxas slipper clutch. Im going to try and see right now along with adding the tmaxx Brake disc to my p4de. If the spring works it'll be a helper to everyone that needs a spring but has to end up spending $10.00 in parts just to get the spring. If this works it'll only cost $2.00 for just the spring and headache resolved.

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  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Its crazy. I ordered all that Sunday night from AMainHobbies.com and here it is Wednesday and everything has arrived. Wow fast shipping from Texas to New Hampshire. Only took two and a half days. Good news to one of the team associated slipper clutch springs i bought apears to look like it'd fit the traxxas slipper clutch. Im going to try and see right now along with adding the tmaxx Brake disc to my p4de. If the spring works it'll be a helper to everyone that needs a spring but has to end up spending $10.00 in parts just to get the spring. If this works it'll only cost $2.00 for just the spring and headache resolved.

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    Are you going to install the revo clutch, have you ever think on it ?

    I saw on internet and I donít know whatís any good to upgrade bigger ?
    Thanks.


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  28. #148
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I have two stampede 4x4's and two slash 4x4's. All four have the revo slipper clutch with aluminum pads. One of them i have mod 1 gearing in. I have it 1/4 or 1/8th from tight depending on what motor they have in them. I feel it's a fantastic upgrade and all traxxas models should have it. You break less stuff, it desprises heat better, better traction. Now as far as having the revo slipper clutch with the tmaxx Brake disc im installing it now and I have never tried that. Im doing it to my speed runner p4de. How that goes ill post on the stampede 4x4 thread.

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  29. #149
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    You got to remember though that you need to check the slipper clutch periodically. It's not something you can just set and forget. I check mine after im done running it. Normally about every two or 3 lipo packs.

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  30. #150
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I have two stampede 4x4's and two slash 4x4's. All four have the revo slipper clutch with aluminum pads.
    You might also consider the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit. Although, since the spur is hardened steel, you'd also need to run a hardened steel pinion...both of which I've been running in my race-prepped Rusty 4x4.

    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    You got to remember though that you need to check the slipper clutch periodically...I check mine after im done running it.
    Instead of checking it "when done running it", you might consider checking (and tightening, if needed) at the beginning of a session. I was talking with some of the guys at the track today (post-racing), and that's what was suggested to me. Also, instead of tightening, and then backing off, the suggested/recommended way was to loosen until the vehicle doesn't move, and then tighten, test, tighten, test, etc, until the vehicle finally "catches"...and then tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more, depending of the threading (ie. "finer threading" approx 1/4, "coarser threading" approx 1/8). To tight, and the slipper won't be able to "slip".

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  31. #151
    RC Qualifier zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    You might also consider the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit. Although, since the spur is hardened steel, you'd also need to run a hardened steel pinion...both of which I've been running in my race-prepped Rusty 4x4.



    Instead of checking it "when done running it", you might consider checking (and tightening, if needed) at the beginning of a session. I was talking with some of the guys at the track today (post-racing), and that's what was suggested to me. Also, instead of tightening, and then backing off, the suggested/recommended way was to loosen until the vehicle doesn't move, and then tighten, test, tighten, test, etc, until the vehicle finally "catches"...and then tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more, depending of the threading (ie. "finer threading" approx 1/4, "coarser threading" approx 1/8). To tight, and the slipper won't be able to "slip".

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    When it comes to the aluminum pad HD slipper clutch you always want to adjust when warm, NOT before when cold. Unless you are not interested in it functioning but rather it just stay locked down. If you are willing to do the maintenance the aluminum pad HD slipper can be great and if you like a locked slipper it can also be great but each take different procedural maintenance.

    Addendum: The aluminum pad HD slipper clutch also wears fast and will be the most often replaced of all the clutches in the long run. So it is not for everyone.
    Last edited by zedorda; 04-06-2019 at 11:45 PM.

  32. #152
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    When it comes to the aluminum pad HD slipper clutch you always want to adjust when warm, NOT before when cold. Unless you are not interested in it functioning but rather it just stay locked down. If you are willing to do the maintenance the aluminum pad HD slipper can be great and if you like a locked slipper it can also be great but each take different procedural maintenance.

    Addendum: The aluminum pad HD slipper clutch also wears fast and will be the most often replaced of all the clutches in the long run. So it is not for everyone.

    I definitely want it to function properly. Absolutely. I didn't know "adjust it when warm". In order to go that route what would you recommend a good loose point it ir starting point with a 3500vxl and a 2650kv motors?
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  33. #153
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    You might also consider the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit. Although, since the spur is hardened steel, you'd also need to run a hardened steel pinion...both of which I've been running in my race-prepped Rusty 4x4.



    Instead of checking it "when done running it", you might consider checking (and tightening, if needed) at the beginning of a session. I was talking with some of the guys at the track today (post-racing), and that's what was suggested to me. Also, instead of tightening, and then backing off, the suggested/recommended way was to loosen until the vehicle doesn't move, and then tighten, test, tighten, test, etc, until the vehicle finally "catches"...and then tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more, depending of the threading (ie. "finer threading" approx 1/4, "coarser threading" approx 1/8). To tight, and the slipper won't be able to "slip".

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    This is also new news to me. Have you tried this method? Have you tried it with the revo aluminum slipper? So your saying loosen the slipper so the vehicle wont move then start from there by tightening a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn depending. Now should you keep tighten it just until the vehicle starts to move or how far do you tighten it?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  34. #154
    RC Qualifier zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I definitely want it to function properly. Absolutely. I didn't know "adjust it when warm". In order to go that route what would you recommend a good loose point it ir starting point with a 3500vxl and a 2650kv motors?
    Sorry but I was supporting your choice to "check when done" because it would be warm unless you wait too long. I keep mine about 1/8 turn from tight. I test by holding the truck down and then spike WOT and as long as it slips alittle I am happy.

    Addendum: Aluminum is a material that expands quite a bit with temperature. So testing it's functionality when at "running" temp is important. If you adjust the aluminum slipper when cold it will be near locked up when warm.

    EDIT: If you are a basher setting it at 1/8 turn from tight really shouldn't see a problem because bashing warms a clutch real fast. It is only racers who might run it alittle tighter.
    Last edited by zedorda; 04-07-2019 at 12:35 AM.

  35. #155
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Sorry but I was supporting your choice to "check when done" because it would be warm unless you wait too long. I keep mine about 1/8 turn from tight. I test by holding the truck down and then spike WOT and as long as it slips alittle I am happy.

    Addendum: Aluminum is a material that expands quite a bit with temperature. So testing it's functionality when at "running" temp is important. If you adjust the aluminum slipper when cold it will be near locked up when warm.

    EDIT: If you are a basher setting it at 1/8 turn from tight really shouldn't see a problem because bashing warms a clutch real fast. It is only racers who might run it alittle tighter.

    No worries i just want to make sure that I understand. That's comforting to know that im doing it right and am not the only one. I didn't know that about aluminum. Im definitely getting knowledge from you and everyone else.
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  36. #156
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    This is also new news to me. Have you tried this method? Have you tried it with the revo aluminum slipper? So your saying loosen the slipper so the vehicle wont move then start from there by tightening a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn depending. Now should you keep tighten it just until the vehicle starts to move or how far do you tighten it?
    Personally, I haven't tried it...yet...but I will be. Of the three who recommended this, all three race, and tell of them are team drivers for two different teams (Team Powers, & Team Losi). Also, all three race Off-road vehicles (tho, one also racing on-road). The one thing I forgot to ask (will ask the next time I see any of them), as mentioned in someone else's reply, is whether to do this with the vehicle sitting "on its own", or while (sorta-kinda) holding the vehicle "in-place".

    Initially, I was thinking he meant to have the vehicle sitting "on its own", but doing so would produce very little traction, this harder for the slipper to 'catch'. However, as someone else mentioned in their reply, by holding the vehicle lightly with one hand, and applying throttle with the other, that should/could provide a more useful/realistic 'catch' point. As for how, exactly (at least in regards to the loosening/tightening part), it was described to be done, the first one said it this way (my own wording, to make sense):

    "Loosen the hex nut holding the spring until the vehicle doesn't move when their is applied. Then tighten hex nut slightly, and apply throttle again. If vehicle moves, tighten 1/8 (coarse threading) to 1/4 (fine threading) additional turn. If vehicle doesn't move, keep tightening 1/8 turn, and applying throttle, until vehicle moves. Once vehicle finally moved, apply final 1/8 to 1/4 turn (described above), and the slipper should be at the proper tightness."

    Of course, "proper tightness" can also vary, depending on surface type (asphalt, dirt, clay, same, etc), as well as surface grip. That's why racers using slippers will check them, and readjust if needed, before every race. Personally, I don't plan on being that '****' about it...well, unless I get to the point of being on a similar competitive level as they are.

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  37. #157
    RC Competitor T-N-T's Avatar
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    I gave up on running a slipper with my 2650kv 4x4 Slash and switched to an aluminum cased center diff shimmed to .02mm clearance with 80k fluid. It's been working great, I can still wheelie on command, it does diff out slightly but not much. I really like it.
    Slash Ultimate, Slash 2wd, TRX-4 Defender & Sport

  38. #158
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-N-T View Post
    I gave up on running a slipper with my 2650kv 4x4 Slash and switched to an aluminum cased center diff shimmed to .02mm clearance with 80k fluid. It's been working great, I can still wheelie on command, it does diff out slightly but not much. I really like it.
    For my stadium truck Rusty, I'm sticking with the Robinson Racing Slipper unit. However, for the Rusty I'm converting into "something different", the primary option I'm considering is replacing the stock slipper with the XO-1 center diff (as well as the front/rear diffs). For the Slash 4x4, I haven't decided. Part of the reason is that I'm also undecided where to stick with the plastic Traxxas chassis pan, or replace it with an aluminum chassis from Shining Star Chassis.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  39. #159
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Personally, I haven't tried it...yet...but I will be. Of the three who recommended this, all three race, and tell of them are team drivers for two different teams (Team Powers, & Team Losi). Also, all three race Off-road vehicles (tho, one also racing on-road). The one thing I forgot to ask (will ask the next time I see any of them), as mentioned in someone else's reply, is whether to do this with the vehicle sitting "on its own", or while (sorta-kinda) holding the vehicle "in-place".

    Initially, I was thinking he meant to have the vehicle sitting "on its own", but doing so would produce very little traction, this harder for the slipper to 'catch'. However, as someone else mentioned in their reply, by holding the vehicle lightly with one hand, and applying throttle with the other, that should/could provide a more useful/realistic 'catch' point. As for how, exactly (at least in regards to the loosening/tightening part), it was described to be done, the first one said it this way (my own wording, to make sense):

    "Loosen the hex nut holding the spring until the vehicle doesn't move when their is applied. Then tighten hex nut slightly, and apply throttle again. If vehicle moves, tighten 1/8 (coarse threading) to 1/4 (fine threading) additional turn. If vehicle doesn't move, keep tightening 1/8 turn, and applying throttle, until vehicle moves. Once vehicle finally moved, apply final 1/8 to 1/4 turn (described above), and the slipper should be at the proper tightness."

    Of course, "proper tightness" can also vary, depending on surface type (asphalt, dirt, clay, same, etc), as well as surface grip. That's why racers using slippers will check them, and readjust if needed, before every race. Personally, I don't plan on being that '****' about it...well, unless I get to the point of being on a similar competitive level as they are.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.


    I understand that. Im wondering if thats just with losi, team associated, and tlr type vehicles. Cause traxxas has "how to tighten the slipper " in each of their manuals and never has mentioned adjusting the slipper like you have reccomend. Id like to know is it a universal method or does it apply to a certain vehicles.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  40. #160
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    For my stadium truck Rusty, I'm sticking with the Robinson Racing Slipper unit. However, for the Rusty I'm converting into "something different", the primary option I'm considering is replacing the stock slipper with the XO-1 center diff (as well as the front/rear diffs). For the Slash 4x4, I haven't decided. Part of the reason is that I'm also undecided where to stick with the plastic Traxxas chassis pan, or replace it with an aluminum chassis from Shining Star Chassis.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.

    Do you know if you can actually fit the XO-1 cush drive in a slash? Ive been wondering that. Have you ever tried it?
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

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