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  1. #241
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I really wish this information was brought to light before I bought the Hot Racing motor mount. I didn't know any of that. Live and learn i suppose.

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    Mine was fine for a long time. Just make sure you use a high quality bearing and don't let it go to long unchecked. My failure could of been compounded by a warn slipper adapter or it could of even been the other way around. I guess I'm trying to say there were enough variables at play that it would be unfair to solely blame the mount. With that being said, the bearing was seized in there, rendering it unusable. I beat it with a hammer just so I could win and the o-ring was disintegrated bonding the bearing to the mount, almost glued in there.

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  2. #242
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I really wish this information was brought to light before I bought the Hot Racing motor mount. I didn't know any of that. Live and learn i suppose.

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    Could be isolated. I'm in the same boat so we'll see what happens in the future.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #243
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I really wish this information was brought to light before I bought the Hot Racing motor mount. I didn't know any of that. Live and learn i suppose.

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    If you had seen any of my posts about why I don't like the Hot Racing motor mount it would have told you. I may have written it in a thread. I had a Hot Racing motor mount and the bearing got stuck. I have always loved my King Headz motor mounts.but there was a Hobby Town in Vacaville California that never had a thing. I went looking for a motor mount. They had the Hot Racing so I gave it a try. Will never make that mistake again.
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  4. #244
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    If you had seen any of my posts about why I don't like the Hot Racing motor mount it would have told you. I may have written it in a thread. I had a Hot Racing motor mount and the bearing got stuck. I have always loved my King Headz motor mounts.but there was a Hobby Town in Vacaville California that never had a thing. I went looking for a motor mount. They had the Hot Racing so I gave it a try. Will never make that mistake again.
    You talking about the Hobbytown that used to be in the Creekside Center? Never went there, although I pass through that area on a semi-regular basis (we have some clients that love in the Sacto/Roseville area).

    Personally, I don't like Hobbytown. Each location appears to focus primarily on one specific "hobby" (could be RC planes, puzzles, plastic models, coloring, etc)...in other words, whatever "hobby" the owner(s) is/are into...and I have yet to find a location that has an owner into RC cars/trucks/buggies, thus I haven't found any locations with even a decent amount of RC ground-based parts.
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  5. #245
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    If you had seen any of my posts about why I don't like the Hot Racing motor mount it would have told you. I may have written it in a thread. I had a Hot Racing motor mount and the bearing got stuck. I have always loved my King Headz motor mounts.but there was a Hobby Town in Vacaville California that never had a thing. I went looking for a motor mount. They had the Hot Racing so I gave it a try. Will never make that mistake again.
    Here you go:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Stuck-bearing!
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  6. #246
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    You talking about the Hobbytown that used to be in the Creekside Center? Never went there, although I pass through that area on a semi-regular basis (we have some clients that love in the Sacto/Roseville area).

    Personally, I don't like Hobbytown. Each location appears to focus primarily on one specific "hobby" (could be RC planes, puzzles, plastic models, coloring, etc)...in other words, whatever "hobby" the owner(s) is/are into...and I have yet to find a location that has an owner into RC cars/trucks/buggies, thus I haven't found any locations with even a decent amount of RC ground-based parts.
    That would be the place. I have no idea how they stayed open for so long. They almost ever had any R/C parts. The Hobbytown that was in Concord was heavily into R/C for a good many years! He even had a second site that had a track for the customers. After he moved to a new location it slowly lost it's fire.

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  7. #247
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    That would be the place. I have no idea how they stayed open for so long. They almost ever had any R/C parts. The Hobbytown that was in Concord was heavily into R/C for a good many years! He even had a second site that had a track for the customers. After he moved to a new location it slowly lost it's fire.

    Thank you Squeegie!!!
    Same here...I've gone to our local Hobbytown in Flowood, MS. numerous times and they never have any of the parts I need. They are always out of paint (even the most common colors), poor selection of tires, always out of shock and diff oil, and even common parts that should be stocked for the cars they sell are non existent. I'm always told "we can order it". Well, so can I, and don't have to drive 20 miles for them to tell me that. I stopped going there, and will never go back.

    Both of my rigs run the King Headz mounts and haven't had an issue so far. Also, H/R is made from 6061 aluminum, and the KH uses 7075, and comes with (2) bearings.

  8. #248
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Well I still need to clean up the wiring on the chassis but im taking a break from that and am going to switch out the steering bellcrank, front arm brace and replace/rebuild the front differential. Im not sure if I shout use the gpm diff cup or the TRAXXAS heavy duty diff cup. I bought all the parts to make it a XO-1 front and rear differential. Im caught in the middle. What is all y'alls opinion on the differential cup?

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  9. #249
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Well I still need to clean up the wiring on the chassis but im taking a break from that and am going to switch out the steering bellcrank, front arm brace and replace/rebuild the front differential. Im not sure if I shout use the gpm diff cup or the TRAXXAS heavy duty diff cup. I bought all the parts to make it a XO-1 front and rear differential. Im caught in the middle. What is all y'alls opinion on the differential cup?

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    I never had a problem with the traxxas diff cups before, but you bought the alloy ones so you might as well use them. I would make sure the fit of everything is on point while you're putting them together. Not saying gpm is a bad brand, not even talking about a specific brand, just seen after market alloy diff cups have issues with tolerances/leaking so it would be wise to make sure everything is precise.

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  10. #250
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Thank you for the very wise advice. Another concern is the traxxas differential cup comes with these brackets and the GPM xo-1 cups i have don't have the slot like the TRAXXAS heavy duty cups do. Is it a major deal not using them?

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  11. #251
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    The GPM Racing Steering Bellcrank finally installed. Looks good and moves very smooth. I wanted to use the metal shielded bearings that the kit came with. I was unable to get off the bottom bearing on both sides so I just reused the TRAXXAS bearings. If anyone has any advice on how to remove the two bottom bearings from the bellcrank im all ears.

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  12. #252
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    Thank you for the very wise advice. Another concern is the traxxas differential cup comes with these brackets and the GPM xo-1 cups i have don't have the slot like the TRAXXAS heavy duty cups do. Is it a major deal not using them?

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    Is there just a narrow slot in the GPM cups for the cross pin to fit in? If that's the case they probably just eliminated the tab. The tab is to keep the cross pin seated properly and to keep it from chewing into the plastic diff cup.

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  13. #253
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Yea there are slots for the i-bar and the pin. I guess ill just go with out those plates.

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  14. #254
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Has anyone else out there used the GPM diff cups with out the TRAXXAS brackets? If so is it better than the TRAXXAS heavy duty diff cup or no?

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  15. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    The GPM Racing Steering Bellcrank finally installed. Looks good and moves very smooth. I wanted to use the metal shielded bearings that the kit came with. I was unable to get off the bottom bearing on both sides so I just reused the TRAXXAS bearings. If anyone has any advice on how to remove the two bottom bearings from the bellcrank im all ears.

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    Is there slop in the shoulder screw which attaches the center piece on the bell crank? The hot raving one has a lot of slop there and I am trying to find a better alternative.


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  16. #256
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    There isn't any slop or play at all with the gpm Steering bellcrank. It comes with new metal shielded bearings and you just have to re-use the shoulder screws. I have the Hot Racing bellcrank in both my custom Stampede 4x4's so I know exactly what your talking about. In my opinion the GPM bellcrank is better.

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  17. #257
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Question to all. Im running the Castle Creations Mamba Monster X with the 2200kv. Ill be using 3s to 6s in it. Now im curious about what differential fluid to use. I was thinking 100,000 weight in front and 20,000 or 30,000 in the rear. Would that work? What weight differential fluid would y'all recommend?

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  18. #258
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Well slowly but surely she's getting done. I rebuilt the front differential with brand new gpm diff cup, TRAXXAS 6882X, TRAXXAS 37t/13t gears Team Associated 80,000 weight differential fluid. The stock differential that is filled with 30,000 weight differential fluid im going to as is for now.

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  19. #259
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I got the front differential rebuilt and installed. Looks good. Hopefully it'll perform as good as it looks. Once i got the differential in place and the driveshafts screwed back on the diff i put on my new GPM front arm brace. Now im going to install the center driveshaft from GPM. I decided to go with the GPM center driveshaft because it screws onto the front differential and the slipper clutch drive pin. Theres no movement back and forth like the TRAXXAS center driveshaft or tekno's center driveshaft that can possibly pop out. I have the tekno center driveshaft for both my p4des with 1/8th scale motors and have yet to have a issue. Im definitely curious to see how this center driveshaft does with 3s all the way up to 6s.

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  20. #260
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I got the front differential rebuilt and installed. Looks good. Hopefully it'll perform as good as it looks. Once i got the differential in place and the driveshafts screwed back on the diff i put on my new GPM front arm brace. Now im going to install the center driveshaft from GPM. I decided to go with the GPM center driveshaft because it screws onto the front differential and the slipper clutch drive pin. Theres no movement back and forth like the TRAXXAS center driveshaft or tekno's center driveshaft that can possibly pop out. I have the tekno center driveshaft for both my p4des with 1/8th scale motors and have yet to have a issue. Im definitely curious to see how this center driveshaft does with 3s all the way up to 6s.

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    The play in the drive shaft is intended to account for chassis flex. Not sure if you plan on jumping the truck a whole lot. If not, that rigid center drive will be probably be fine. Truck looks really good. Coming along nicely.

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  21. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    I got the front differential rebuilt and installed. Looks good. Hopefully it'll perform as good as it looks. Once i got the differential in place and the driveshafts screwed back on the diff i put on my new GPM front arm brace. Now im going to install the center driveshaft from GPM. I decided to go with the GPM center driveshaft because it screws onto the front differential and the slipper clutch drive pin. Theres no movement back and forth like the TRAXXAS center driveshaft or tekno's center driveshaft that can possibly pop out. I have the tekno center driveshaft for both my p4des with 1/8th scale motors and have yet to have a issue. Im definitely curious to see how this center driveshaft does with 3s all the way up to 6s.

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    Let us know how those diff cups work out. Ive heard some not so great thing about them.


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  22. #262
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    The play in the drive shaft is intended to account for chassis flex. Not sure if you plan on jumping the truck a whole lot. If not, that rigid center drive will be probably be fine. Truck looks really good. Coming along nicely.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    The play in the drive shaft is intended to account for chassis flex. Not sure if you plan on jumping the truck a whole lot. If not, that rigid center drive will be probably be fine.
    Just curious about something. I have a Slash 4x4, which I intend on racing (indoor, need-size clay track, semi-technical, several jumps, one long straightaway, multiple 90-180 turns), along with a Rusty 4x4 (of which I've replaced the shock towers with Slash towers, and am replacing the body work a Jato body), and another Rusty 4x4 (which I'll be converting into a 1/8 4WD buggy).

    Anyway, I've been using the first Rusty on the track for a few months (only raced twice, but plan on racing more once the current 'conversion' is finished), with a VG center brace installed. One of the primary reason for swapping shock towers, and, thus, the body, is because of "problems" with the latch-style clipless body mount system...every time there's a reasonable (or greater) frontal impact, the body pops offs the front body mount. Until you mentioned the 'rigid center drive', I'd always thought the problem was because of the thin/flexible body, and the "poorly-designed clipless body mount". However, now I'm wondering if the VG center brace played a considerable amount into the "problem"...ie. the brace, making the chassis more stiff, 'allowed' the body to bend during impact, thus leading to the body popping off the front body mount.

    So, here's my question...or, questions, as the case may be. I'm still doing the aforementioned conversion to me Rusty 4x4 (everything is already bought, and some of the parts have already been assembled, or partially assembled)...so, should I leave the brace on, or should I remove it (again, this, as well as the other two, are intended for racing on the aforementioned track)? Note that the body will be held in place with clips. Additionally, in regards to the Slash (which will have a Toyota Tundra SCT body, of slightly-thicker Lexan, and will also be held with clips), should I consider, or avoid, a similar center brace? Finally, in regards to the Rustler behind converted to a buggy, I all the same question...although, in regards to the Rusty-buggy, the body will be attached to the chassis via Velcro (the same as all 1/10, and some other 1/8, buggies).

    I could potentially see not using the center brace on the Slash, or the Rusty that's remaining a stadium truck (albeit, work a Jato body)...but, considering the Rusty-buggy will have the body held in place with Velcro, to the chassis pan, and not attached to the shock towers, I can potentially see the center brace being used on the Rusty-buggy.

    So, what are other people's thoughts...same question, applied to each vehicle, individually?
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  23. #263
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Just curious about something. I have a Slash 4x4, which I intend on racing (indoor, need-size clay track, semi-technical, several jumps, one long straightaway, multiple 90-180 turns), along with a Rusty 4x4 (of which I've replaced the shock towers with Slash towers, and am replacing the body work a Jato body), and another Rusty 4x4 (which I'll be converting into a 1/8 4WD buggy).

    Anyway, I've been using the first Rusty on the track for a few months (only raced twice, but plan on racing more once the current 'conversion' is finished), with a VG center brace installed. One of the primary reason for swapping shock towers, and, thus, the body, is because of "problems" with the latch-style clipless body mount system...every time there's a reasonable (or greater) frontal impact, the body pops offs the front body mount. Until you mentioned the 'rigid center drive', I'd always thought the problem was because of the thin/flexible body, and the "poorly-designed clipless body mount". However, now I'm wondering if the VG center brace played a considerable amount into the "problem"...ie. the brace, making the chassis more stiff, 'allowed' the body to bend during impact, thus leading to the body popping off the front body mount.

    So, here's my question...or, questions, as the case may be. I'm still doing the aforementioned conversion to me Rusty 4x4 (everything is already bought, and some of the parts have already been assembled, or partially assembled)...so, should I leave the brace on, or should I remove it (again, this, as well as the other two, are intended for racing on the aforementioned track)? Note that the body will be held in place with clips. Additionally, in regards to the Slash (which will have a Toyota Tundra SCT body, of slightly-thicker Lexan, and will also be held with clips), should I consider, or avoid, a similar center brace? Finally, in regards to the Rustler behind converted to a buggy, I all the same question...although, in regards to the Rusty-buggy, the body will be attached to the chassis via Velcro (the same as all 1/10, and some other 1/8, buggies).

    I could potentially see not using the center brace on the Slash, or the Rusty that's remaining a stadium truck (albeit, work a Jato body)...but, considering the Rusty-buggy will have the body held in place with Velcro, to the chassis pan, and not attached to the shock towers, I can potentially see the center brace being used on the Rusty-buggy.

    So, what are other people's thoughts...same question, applied to each vehicle, individually?
    This is a tricky question. If you enjoy the handling benefits of running the center brace I would keep it. It is kind of hard to compare because the slash is just about the only raceable truck that uses a plastic "tub" style chassis. Most other branded short course trucks have a flat, alloy frame that utilizes some sort of bracing both front and rear and a center brace is usually available and alot of times recommended. I don't race so I don't want to give you bad info, I'm just using what I've learned from running multiple brands of trucks, in multiple scales. All my other brands run bracing, but like I said they are alloy framed. I think the traxxas plastic chassis are probably better at absorbing impact because they do flex nicely, you just loose out on handling to a degree because that flex is there. The plastic frame is definitely a more forgiving platform. I have had a slash 4x4 for a while now and I never noticed any ill effects from chassis flex and I've had some pretty bad crashes. I guess you just have to weigh the pros and cons and see if the handling benefits are too good to pass up. As far as the body popping off it's hard to say what causes it. On my Xmaxx and Erevo 2.0 I've popped it off every way imaginable. I think sometimes it pops off from Chassis flex and sometimes it pops off from the actual body and body support compressing. I've seen slow motion videos of Xmaxxs crashing and the amount of distortion and bending is insane. I've seen people absolutely crumple center drive shafts, and chink, cha chink away with nothing else broken.

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  24. #264
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    Very cool build mate!. I wish I could do these build's but I'm still young so i don't have that much money but watching people do these build is fun aswell. Keep it going!

  25. #265
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    This is a tricky question. If you enjoy the handling benefits of running the center brace I would keep it. It is kind of hard to compare because the slash is just about the only raceable truck that uses a plastic "tub" style chassis. Most other branded short course trucks have a flat, alloy frame that utilizes some sort of bracing both front and rear and a center brace is usually available and alot of times recommended...I guess you just have to weigh the pros and cons and see if the handling benefits are too good to pass up.
    I do like the center brace, and enough to not only keep it in the Rusty I'm rebuilding, but to put one in the Rusty I'll be converting into a buggy, as well as putting one in the Slash I'll be building up. I've raced the Rusty, with it's NASCAR-like "truck" body, and it's handled quite nicely. Even the LHS/track owner has taken control of my Rusty, and he liked it's handling. Can't wait to finish the project, and get it back on the track.

    Once the current Rusty project is complete, and I've gotten some time with it on the track, then I'll start the build-up on the Slash 4x4 (which will end up with a Toyota Tundra SCT body). Other than the different bodies, I'm suspecting I'll have very little difference between the two building. One change I'm seriously considering for the Slash is going with a center differential, as opposed to the slipper (I'll mention that I'm NOT running the stock slipper in the Rusty...it was replaced, months ago, with a Robinson Racing Slipper Unit, and hardened steel gears).
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  26. #266
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Yea there is space for the pin and the i-bar just not the two metal tabs. Im assuming since its aluminum that those two tabs aren't needed. These diff cups are for the Xo-1 so if it was needed im sure they'd of made identical to the Traxxas Xo-1 Diff. I apologize for such a delayed response.

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  27. #267
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    The XO-1 diffs went together like a dream. The only problem I had...MY fault...was, in installing one of the diffs inside the diff housing, I accidentally put the original Rustler diff in, and didn't realize it until after I put the housing pieces together, attached the housing to the bulkhead, and reattached the bulkhead to the chassis pan. When I went to turn the center driveshaft, I could hear something wasn't right. I reversed the steps, greased up the correct diff, and our everything back together...and all was good. The "moral" of this story is, straight-cut & spiral-cut gears don't work well together.

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