Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    England UK
    Posts
    2

    Thumbs up Recommended upgrades/info

    Hi all,

    Recently got myself a Rustler 4x4 Vxl TRX67076-4GN and have had loads of fun with it so far.
    this being my first venture into the RC world im looking at all the spares and upgrades on offer and am completely lost, not only with whats on offer but what will fit.

    So i guess what im asking is first of all is:

    What style is this car regarded as or what names is it called?
    I seem to get the impression its like a slash 4x4 and is a low centre of gravity LCG type.

    Are there any upgrades you would recomend?
    After several runs and 2 big crashes I have so far broken a front shock, rear bulkhead, ripped a tyre and destroyed a drive shaft, all while on the 11t gear.
    Lastly does fitting the 17t gear make it harder to control? i.e. to fast to control?

    Thanks for any replies or feedback, any advice or help is much appreciated

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    480
    Breaking so much, so quickly, I have to ask:. Are you running 2S or 3S? Also, since you're new to RC, if you didn't enable the ESCs "Training Mode" (it cuts max speed to half), I'd highly suggest you do so, at least until you've learned control of the vehicle. Beyond that, work the exception of the chassis, center driveshaft, body, and shock towers, the Slash 4x4 and Rustler 4x4 share almost identical parts - the standard parts, as well as upgrade (from Traxxas, as well as aftermarket) parts.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  3. #3
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    England UK
    Posts
    2
    Hi Panther

    Thanks for the reply

    I'm using 3s lipos, and I wish I had used the training mode to begin with, wouldn't have cost me as much in spares.
    I feel I'm a lot better with control of the car now, and even managed a few back flips, learned to accelerate mid air to bring it round and not land on the roof.
    The slash/rustler comparison helps a lot thanks as with the car being relativey new most websites haven't updated their stock to show compatibility, but at least i know what to look out for now.

    I have read a few posts regarding upgraded shocks mainly GTR's, with having issues with the stock ones would you say these are a good upgrade? or is there a better option out there? I have rebuilt 3 of my shocks so far and have lost the bottom caps and spacers plently of times.
    in the mean time I have found since fitting these it happens less frequently but wondering if these would be compatible with GTR shocks
    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rpm-sho...roducts/367775

    Thanks again for your reply

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    79
    There's an axiomatic truism that I've always adhered by: "Just because you 'can', doesn't mean you 'should'!"

    That is to say, be sure to limit the car to match your skill / capability. Otherwise, you'll quickly be reminded of that with each wreck. It's a humbling experience. Lord know how many times I've juiced when I shouldn't have, and literally paid the price in spare parts.

    These days, I don't max out the speed unless I know I'm in the clear free of obstacles and on a straight away.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by StDragon View Post
    There's an axiomatic truism that I've always adhered by: "Just because you 'can', doesn't mean you 'should'!"

    That is to say, be sure to limit the car to match your skill / capability. Otherwise, you'll quickly be reminded of that with each wreck. It's a humbling experience. Lord know how many times I've juiced when I shouldn't have, and literally paid the price in spare parts.

    These days, I don't max out the speed unless I know I'm in the clear free of obstacles and on a straight away.
    I'm in agreement. That's why, when I bought my Rusty 4x4, I picked up three batteries - two 2S, and only one 3S. Fired you might say I didn't fully "trust" myself. Now that I've got better-than-average control, I've reset the ESC to standard mode...plus I'm adding the additional vehicles - something I'm building based on a Rusty 4x4 chassis, something I'm building based on a Slash 4x4 chassis, plus the just-released TLR 8ight-XE.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New Orleans
    Posts
    56
    The Rustler 4x4 is considered a stadium truck like the 2wd version. But some call it more of a truggy. The 17 tooth will not make it harder to control just give you more top speed. It's up to you to control the more mph. Actually will calm it down a bit on the low end.

    As far as upgrades look through all the Rustler 4 threads, it's loaded with members upgrades. Also look on Traxxas home page there's a video of the Rustler 4 with a list of upgrades with all the part #'s below.

    Don't know if you mastered the 3s power yet but if not you really need space to run this thing until you do. Narrow streets with parked cars, curbs, trees, your worst enemy.

    Large empty parking lots, open fields are great. Just be aware that speed pinion will give you more mph and up the anti for crashes.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by transbrake View Post
    The Rustler 4x4 is considered a stadium truck like the 2wd version. But some call it more of a truggy. The 17 tooth will not make it harder to control just give you more top speed. It's up to you to control the more mph. Actually will calm it down a bit on the low end.

    As far as upgrades look through all the Rustler 4 threads, it's loaded with members upgrades. Also look on Traxxas home page there's a video of the Rustler 4 with a list of upgrades with all the part #'s below.

    Don't know if you mastered the 3s power yet but if not you really need space to run this thing until you do. Narrow streets with parked cars, curbs, trees, your worst enemy.

    Large empty parking lots, open fields are great. Just be aware that speed pinion will give you more mph and up the anti for crashes.
    Don't forget that there are more upgrade parts that are NOT made by Traxxas. The parts listed with that video are ONLY Traxxas parts. I'm not saying that aftermarket parts are better than Traxxas parts (when it comes to the F/R driveshafts, I'll take the Traxxas CVDs over the MIP any day...I'm still "up in the air" over the M6s).

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Enemy View Post
    Hi Panther

    Thanks for the reply

    I'm using 3s lipos, and I wish I had used the training mode to begin with, wouldn't have cost me as much in spares.
    I feel I'm a lot better with control of the car now, and even managed a few back flips, learned to accelerate mid air to bring it round and not land on the roof.
    The slash/rustler comparison helps a lot thanks as with the car being relativey new most websites haven't updated their stock to show compatibility, but at least i know what to look out for now.

    I have read a few posts regarding upgraded shocks mainly GTR's, with having issues with the stock ones would you say these are a good upgrade? or is there a better option out there? I have rebuilt 3 of my shocks so far and have lost the bottom caps and spacers plently of times.
    in the mean time I have found since fitting these it happens less frequently but wondering if these would be compatible with GTR shocks
    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rpm-sho...roducts/367775

    Thanks again for your reply
    GTR shocks are great. However you need to put your own springs and oil into them, so they are geared more for experienced rc'er. HPI vorza shocks are extremely heavy duty, but since they are heavier, they will reduce the durability of your other parts in crashes and will make the car slightly slower. the vorza shocks are also a lot cheaper. On the note of training mode, what i did when i got my first brushless 3s car, it did not have a training mode, so i put a piece of cardboard in between the remote and the throttle trigger. Personally, on the note of the 17t pinion, I like it, way harder to control ++++++ but it greatly reduces efficiency, due to way more heat being generated. I run a 13t pinion for right now...

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by transbrake View Post
    The Rustler 4x4 is considered a stadium truck like the 2wd version. But some call it more of a truggy. The 17 tooth will not make it harder to control just give you more top speed. It's up to you to control the more mph. Actually will calm it down a bit on the low end.

    As far as upgrades look through all the Rustler 4 threads, it's loaded with members upgrades. Also look on Traxxas home page there's a video of the Rustler 4 with a list of upgrades with all the part #'s below.

    Don't know if you mastered the 3s power yet but if not you really need space to run this thing until you do. Narrow streets with parked cars, curbs, trees, your worst enemy.

    Large empty parking lots, open fields are great. Just be aware that speed pinion will give you more mph and up the anti for crashes.
    Have you actually used the 17t pinion? IMO it is a lot harder to control. It does not accelerate quite as fast, but in every other way it is faster and crazier to drive...

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    400
    Personally, i used it on 2s for about a week before I moved to a 100c 3s. After that I busted the 2 front shock caps. Then I used redcat caldera sc 10e big bore shocks for the front. They have taken many impacts in 40 degree weather without even cracking or twisting the shaft. They cost about 10 dollars and I highly reccomend them for the front. Just be careful because they do not work in the rear.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •