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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Rustler 4x4 vxl. Diff fluid?

    Whatís the best weight diff oil is the best for all around driving,,mostly pavement,just a light bashing . Would it be best to use the same weight oil in both diffs? Thanks tazzzz

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    First, it depends on the use. Second, it can depend on the vehicle's weight. Third, while you can run the same weight in the F/C/R diffs, sometimes it's better to run a higher weight in the front diff, or in the rear diff.

    I don't know what the stock weights are, so can't comment about that. However, some people talk about anything from 50K-100K in their F&R diffs for bashing. For my Rustler 4x4 chassis (essentially, a shorter version of the Slash 4x4 chassis), which I'm converting into a 1/8 4WD buggy, I'm 15K/15K/10K. On my TLR 8ight-XE, which I'm in the process of building, I'll be running 10K/10K/4K.

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  3. #3
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    It’s for the 4x4 vxl,,the new one,,has only 2diffs front and rear.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    First, it depends on the use. Second, it can depend on the vehicle's weight. Third, while you can run the same weight in the F/C/R diffs, sometimes it's better to run a higher weight in the front diff, or in the rear diff.

    I don't know what the stock weights are, so can't comment about that. However, some people talk about anything from 50K-100K in their F&R diffs for bashing. For my Rustler 4x4 chassis (essentially, a shorter version of the Slash 4x4 chassis), which I'm converting into a 1/8 4WD buggy, I'm 15K/15K/10K. On my TLR 8ight-XE, which I'm in the process of building, I'll be running 10K/10K/4K.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    Lucky to have a tlr 8ight. lol. But honestly, I have no clue about diff oil fluid, except that I like it heavier. The looser it is the better traction you will have in turns, and you will be less likely to skid out. However, for moderate rock racing/crawling (idk why you would do this with a rustl4r but u might) the heavier diff oil will work better. Also if you like doing donuts get the thicker oil...

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    As per the manual:

    TUNING THE SEALED GEAR DIFFERENTIALS
    The action of the your model’s front and rear gear differentials can be tuned for different driving conditions and performance requirements, without major disassembly or removal of the suspension system.

    From the factory, the differentials are sealed to maintain consistent long-term performance. Changing the oil in the differential with either lower or higher viscosity oil will vary the performance characteristics of the differentials. Changing to a higher viscosity oil in the differential will reduce the tendency for motor power to be transferred to the wheel with the least traction. You may notice this when making sharp turns on slick surfaces. The unloaded wheels on the inside of the turn have the least traction and tend to spin up to extremely high rpms. Higher viscosity (thicker) oil causes the differential to act like a limited-slip differential, distributing more equal power to the left and right wheels.

    Your model will generally benefit from higher viscosity oil when climbing or racing on low-traction surfaces. Note: Heavier oil will allow power to be transferred even with one or more tires off the ground. This can make the vehicle more likely to overturn on hightraction surfaces.

    From the factory, the front differential is filled with SAE 30,000W viscosity silicone oil. The rear differential is filled with grease, but can also be tuned with silicone differential oil.

    -From page 29 in the manual
    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-OM-EN-R03.pdf
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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tazzzz View Post
    Itís for the 4x4 vxl,,the new one,,has only 2diffs front and rear.
    Understood...tho, you do have the option of installing the optional center diff, as mine have (thus the reason I mentioned the center diff).

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  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    Lucky to have a tlr 8ight. lol. But honestly, I have no clue about diff oil fluid, except that I like it heavier. The looser it is the better traction you will have in turns, and you will be less likely to skid out. However, for moderate rock racing/crawling (idk why you would do this with a rustl4r but u might) the heavier diff oil will work better. Also if you like doing donuts get the thicker oil...
    Yea (plus, I received the 22 5.0 SR today), but it's taking longer to build than expected...and WAY longer than Losi claims...tho, that's partially due to extensive work hours, and partially due to me doing things like balancing the left/right shocks (that took a while, as I had two pair to balance). Thankfully, the shocks are perfectly balanced now.

    Speaking of balancing shocks, now that I know how to do it, and have the proper too for doing it, once I start building-up the Slash 4x4 & Rusty 4x4 projects, I'll be balancing those shocks. Although I still don't yet know which 'project' will get built on which chassis, I am planning on using 12mm shocks for one, and 16mm shocks for the other, with a slight "modification" on both - will be using TLR bottom "See Plastics Set" for both, as the pieces screw together, preventing anything from getting lost.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Yea (plus, I received the 22 5.0 SR today), but it's taking longer to build than expected...and WAY longer than Losi claims...tho, that's partially due to extensive work hours, and partially due to me doing things like balancing the left/right shocks (that took a while, as I had two pair to balance). Thankfully, the shocks are perfectly balanced now.

    Speaking of balancing shocks, now that I know how to do it, and have the proper too for doing it, once I start building-up the Slash 4x4 & Rusty 4x4 projects, I'll be balancing those shocks. Although I still don't yet know which 'project' will get built on which chassis, I am planning on using 12mm shocks for one, and 16mm shocks for the other, with a slight "modification" on both - will be using TLR bottom "See Plastics Set" for both, as the pieces screw together, preventing anything from getting lost.

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    I am highly uneducated with nitro stuff... but I do know that number like: 4.3 are related to the engine. The higher the number the more powerful... is the "22 5.0 SR" a nitro buggy?

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    I am highly uneducated with nitro stuff... but I do know that number like: 4.3 are related to the engine. The higher the number the more powerful... is the "22 5.0 SR" a nitro buggy?
    Nope...both are electric. I don't do nitro...too "complicated".

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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Nope...both are electric. I don't do nitro...too "complicated".
    Ha! I hear you. Too much to fiddle with.
    I like free stuff!

  11. #11
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    yeah. My friend has a nitro 4tec that has been rotting in his garage. he came over to my house to run it, and we needed a starter and double aa's and a 7.2v nimh pack for the starter and the nitro stuff and it had so many servos and it was altogether a very unlikeable experience.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke s View Post
    yeah. My friend has a nitro 4tec that has been rotting in his garage. he came over to my house to run it, and we needed a starter and double aa's and a 7.2v nimh pack for the starter and the nitro stuff and it had so many servos and it was altogether a very unlikeable experience.
    Because they need 2 servos...one for steering, and one for throttle/brake. Also, one (not sure which) of the servos needs it's own battery. Then, there's all that other "garbage" - glow starters, fuel, etc, etc, etc. The only "liquids" we need to worry about are diff fluid & shock oil. Speak of which, you get yours figured out yet?

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  13. #13
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Yes it needs two servos, one for throttle and one for steering. It requires a battery pack to start the engine and then the starter motor acts as an alternator to supply the power to the electronics. Bring it in only for gas and the engine will run all day.
















































    No need to go nitro vs electric debate. Back to the regularly scheduled topic.
    The Super Derecho

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Yes it needs two servos, one for throttle and one for steering. It requires a battery pack to start the engine and then the starter motor acts as an alternator to supply the power to the electronics. Bring it in only for gas and the engine will run all day.














































    Until I move to a location work an outdoor track, I'll stick with electric...then again, even after I move, maybe I'll still stick with electric.

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  15. #15
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    I have a 5s Rustler VXL 4X4 (HW 2200kv) and put in 500K diff fluid. Ran it stock diff fluid and destoyed everything inside with 5s. Since I have put in 500k no issues.

  16. #16
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    Can you 2 wheel with 500k

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