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Thread: My 2.0

  1. #1
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    My 2.0

    Hello, I've had a magnitude of R/Cs since I was 11, and if Im honest always had a soft spot for Traxxas ever since the first Rustler (as a kit with MSC) and Emaxx 3906. Fast Forward to these days and Ive always been really into or really out of R/C. I regularly go through periods of selling up, only to buy again! My last big sale included me selling both of XMaxx's, and If Im honest I regret that ALOT. However they were simply worth too much to sit around not being used so they went. Deep down I want another but its a lot of money. Then in a period of not being into R/C at all, I saw an advert for the new Rustler 4x4. I cam straight back onto the old forums and pre ordered one.It kept getting delayed in the UK, and eBay ran a promotion with 15% off, so I decided to cancel my Rustler and go for the in stock E-Revo 2.0. This was October....





    Before I even ran it, I read about the issues with the Servos, the shock rod ends and rear brace, so I ordered some goodies.

    Twin 23kg Power HD Servos, with Alloy servo Horns
    Alloy Shock rod ends
    Traxxas Rear Brace
    Wheelie Bar

    I also went to thicker shock oil and Blue/Silver Shock Springs like my past 3 E-Revos... I also geared up, because why not?!







    That was October..... Work and life got in the way and I never used it.....

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    Fast Forward to March. I kinda forgot I had it, its just been sat in my office looking at me. I thought ID take it out, but ID left the Lipos charged up and they had died. I decided to show some love and finish off the E-Revo How I believe it shouldve been.

    I upgraded the Radio to a Futaba 3PV and the ESC and motor to a Max 8 and 2200kv combo





    I also went for some Proline Badlands MX38s on stone grey wheels as opposed to the common black ( I prefer black but weren't in stock).



    I also picked up a pair of 3S HRB Lipos

    I Popped to my Local modelshop as I forgot the Servo Y Lead and picked up the Hobbywing Programmer to adjust the punch & BEC but she is ready to be used now....


  3. #3
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    Some of my previous Traxxas models:

    E-Revo Brushed



    Stampede VXL



    Emaxx 3905



    Slash 2wd



    Pre Wide Old School 3906 Emaxx



    Rustler

    Last edited by Kpowell911; 03-09-2019 at 12:06 PM.

  4. #4
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    Xmaxx 6S



    Slash 4x4 Platinum LCG



    Slash 4x4x HCG Ultimate


    2nd E-Revo 1.0



    Jato 3.3R



    Bigfoot



    Another Slash 4x4 I had



    My favourite VXL Stampede





    Xmaxx 8s

    Last edited by Kpowell911; 03-09-2019 at 12:15 PM.

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    Group Shot




  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    That 2.0 looks really nice and NOT USED!!! Are you actually going to run it?
    I like free stuff!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    That 2.0 looks really nice and NOT USED!!! Are you actually going to run it?
    When I get time lol! Ive had it since October!

  8. #8
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    Hey Kpoweel911 -- looks like you have your V2 set up to survive for a while. Hope you get some time to run it! Good luck!

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    When I get time lol! Ive had it since October!
    Ha! How do you not have time for it?
    I like free stuff!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    Ha! How do you not have time for it?
    Life getting in the way, other hobbies, work and married life lol.

    My Wife bought it me for Christmas but let me have it in October. I used it for less than 2 minutes and wasn't happy with the suspensions set up. Did some research and ordered the Blue/Silver springs along with the other mods like the servo. Only issue is Im struggling with Traxxas as a brand in the UK, not much appears in stock and Traxxas have /changed how imports work to the UK which stopped me ordering from A-Main/RC Mart/Tower so I had to back order the springs so only the Blue came. This meant it was left in bits and I lost interest. The springs came and I fitted them and realised my Lipo's had died. A few months later (this weekend just gone) I decided to fit the springs and ordered the new lipos/electrics/wheels/tyres.

    I want the Red Push rods and Tie Rods but cant seem to find them in stock so Ive kinda started looking at other R/Cs lol

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Ahhh, makes sense now. I think you should at least try to run through the batteries once...
    I like free stuff!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    Ahhh, makes sense now. I think you should at least try to run through the batteries once...
    I've got a rare day off work, Im up early and my batteries are on charge

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    Ok, so took it out for its first bash today. Decided to go to an MTB track about 15 miles away. Half way there I had realised I had done no actual testing since I installed the new electrics.... Luckily everything was working fine and all set up very close to how I want it. The punch is too high on the ESC and I need to up my LVC by the look of it as they came out at a 3.2v, I'd prefer a little higher.

    I fully understand this is a baptism of fire and a far from ideal first test for the 2.0, however...

    My experience with a stock 2.0 was very limited however, Ive plenty of experience with the previous ERBE. I always liked the way the suspension worked after a mild tune and it seemed very capable. I was always worried about breaking the drivetrain on my 1.0 as I only run 6s. That said I never actually had a diff fail, it always seemed to be online I found there was an issue. I was confident that issue was sorted on the 2.0. Now to the 2.0. I knew after a minute of driving a box stock 2.0 there stock suspension set up wasn't good enough. It was far too soft and willowy. The tried and tested thicker oil with Blue/Silver springs appeared to be the way forward so I ordered those. I was disappointed that the 2.0 didnt have a wheelie bar installed as standard, so I purchased one, and whilst I was at it decided to upgrade the electronics as I don't have a huge amount of faith in stock ESC/Servo's. That said, Ive personally not had one fail, but at least in the UK, you can upgrade to a Max8 2200kv combo and a PowerHD 23kg servo and sell your Traxxas items for near enough the same price so it was a no brainer. I also decided to go with Badland MX38s, as Id read the stockers aren't too kean on 6s power.

    I first took it here. A closed off area to see what the speed was like. It was here I found out my punch settings were far too high. It would wheelie on demand. I could however immediately tell that the spring and oil changed had worked wonders, I perhaps just needed to lower the ride height using the threaded collars on the shocks



    It was far too punchy to be fun, but the performance was incredible. Ive also geared up to an 18t pinion. I decided to throw it in at the deep end and cross the road to my ex Xmaxx Stomping Ground....









    I was very limited with the throttle for the first few attempts. Its probably over a year since I last used an RC so I took it easy. Once my confidence was up Im happy to say the 2.0 took everything I threw at it. I had some very hard landings and crashes but it seems to soak it up I had couple of nose dives which I expected to break something, but other than one of the teeth on the wheels bar cracking it survived 20 minutes of n00b style bashes. The performance was great, the strength was great and it was very easy to control in the air. I do love how an E-Revo 'works' so to speak. If Im honest, I think made a mistake with the Badlands. They are too big and soft. They make it easy to control in the air, but they're very trashy and balloon a lot as theyre pre mounted. I personally think I should've gone for a smaller, lower profile tyre like a Shockwave, but as we know, RC Tyres are ridiculously expensive, so Im stuck with them. I appreciate Im not on a race track, but I think their size/weight/compound takes alot out of the sharpness and quality of the E-Revos Push rod suspension.

    Here's some proof its dirty



    but its all clean again ready for inspection whilst I storage charge the LiPos.

    Overall Im really impressed. It seems a very positive step in the right direction from the 1.0, if the long term durability stocks up, I can see this being all I need!

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Looks like a really fun place to drive! I just have to bash around my road and feels, nothing cool like that. Now you have at least 1 pack through, so you can take a break for a while.

    Wait, never mind. Keep at it! lol
    I think that if you somehow paint those rims black, it would look
    I like free stuff!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    Looks like a really fun place to drive! I just have to bash around my road and feels, nothing cool like that. Now you have at least 1 pack through, so you can take a break for a while.

    Wait, never mind. Keep at it! lol
    I think that if you somehow paint those rims black, it would look
    Im on the hunt for different wheels & tyres ha

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    Looks like a really fun place to drive! I just have to bash around my road and feels, nothing cool like that. Now you have at least 1 pack through, so you can take a break for a while.

    Wait, never mind. Keep at it! lol
    I think that if you somehow paint those rims black, it would look
    Can always hydro dip them. Super easy and you can get a kit under $100 and be able to dip whatever else you want to color match.


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  17. #17
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    Hopefully I prefer these to the MX38s


  18. #18
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    Nice erevo 2.0

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    Got them fitted up, they certainly look the part!








  20. #20
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    Looking fresh!!!
    ABMods 3.3 Revo PE
    Jato 3.3
    Futaba 3PM

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    Gave the SRX Terrain Crushers a try out today, The definitely don't balloon. They are completely different to drive than the MX38s, you have to completely change how you drive. I now feel my suspension is maybe too stiff as the lack of sidewall means there is no tyre to absorb or dampen anything. Theyre very loud too, I run 19's with a low profile tyre on my work van and its similar to this. They were awesome on short grass and mud, however they struggled a bit on the rock/shale as they just drifted. Ive also turned the punch down far too much so need to up that. Ive now had three big sessions with me E-Revo 2.0. I can honestly say this is avast improvement over the 1.0. I know I have upgraded the ESC/Servo which are known issues and added the rear brace, but Ive done some things that would've broke my 1.0 Im sure of it. The driveline is still silky smooth and Ive been on 6s from day one.

    I think ill sell the MX38s now to recoup some money. Still looking for maybe a different type of tyre as although Im happy with the SRC's and Im aware I need to adjust my driving (you have a lot less control In the air as there is less centrifugal mass from the tyres Im guessing) but Id still like something a bit more grippy. Maybe an Arrma tyre that looks like the Badland V1 but larger is what I need








  22. #22
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Those tires look good! I hope you can find the right ones for your needs.
    I like free stuff!

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    I had an issue with pillow balls pulling through the hubs, RPM true track doesnt fit, so Ive gone with alloy hubs you can tell Im over 30 years old now as Ive gone from buying bling aluminium to black.

    Im convinced going alloy here is going to cause other issues but we will see




  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    I had an issue with pillow balls pulling through the hubs, RPM true track doesnt fit, so Ive gone with alloy hubs you can tell Im over 30 years old now as Ive gone from buying bling aluminium to black.
    Hah! As much as I avoid using the term 'LOL', I did just that when I read that comment. I'm right there along with you on toning down the loud colors. Black and gray work for me.


    Im convinced going alloy here is going to cause other issues but we will see
    Hopefully they don't provide any problems beyond the additional weight. I have a set of them on that project I've been working on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by devzero View Post
    Hah! As much as I avoid using the term 'LOL', I did just that when I read that comment. I'm right there along with you on toning down the loud colors. Black and gray work for me.




    Hopefully they don't provide any problems beyond the additional weight. I have a set of them on that project I've been working on.
    My concern will be pulling the pillow ball out of the a-arm now

  26. #26
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    Ok so decided to try my latest mods to the E-Revo 2.0, whilst I was installing the alloy hubs, I also turned the punch backup on the ESC to 3. A while ago I ordered some cheap 3S lipos from Banggood on recommendation from Kevin Talbot*in a youtube video. They were VERY cheap for what they were so I gave them a shot. I charged them up and went out.

    I went to my local country park, for a basic bash. The punch from these cells combined with the high level of punch meant it was doing standing backflips. Great start. However, when I got to the grass (A football pitch) something was very very very wrong. I could only describe it as the slipper clutch been very loose (I know the E-Revo 2.0 has a Cush drive not a slipper) but it wasn't performing at all. Confused I went over and realised what the problem is. These tyres are terrible on the grass. Terrible. Absolutely pointless....

    As a result, I spent most my bash time in the car park, which was mainly tarmac with a few shale sections, hardly the best environment for the E-Revo. However, it was fast, performed faultlessly and there were no breakages. However, the Tyers were fine here....

    I've clearly not solved the tyre issue, but now Ive got a Project Xmaxx on the go, I cant really afford to change the tyres again, and if Im honest, I wouldn't know what to go for! However, now I finally have another X-MAxx, Im thinking do I really need the E-Revo to be a monster off road? maybe slam it down a little and use it as a flat land speedster?

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    It would be interesting to see you set up the V2 for speed. There's an old thread done on speed runs here that started roughly 10 years ago with the ERBE that's great reading. I haven't seen too much about taking the V2 and doing speed runs with it, although that might be because I have a ERBE and wasn't really checking out the V2 so much.

    Either way, I'm looking forward to what you do with the V2. Well...if that's the direction you go.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by devzero View Post
    It would be interesting to see you set up the V2 for speed. There's an old thread done on speed runs here that started roughly 10 years ago with the ERBE that's great reading. I haven't seen too much about taking the V2 and doing speed runs with it, although that might be because I have a ERBE and wasn't really checking out the V2 so much.

    Either way, I'm looking forward to what you do with the V2. Well...if that's the direction you go.
    It wouldn't be for speed runs per se. If I was purely after speed ID just buy an X-01, or even mod a Slash 4x4. But what owning an X-Maxx long side the E-Revo means I no long have to rely on E-Revo for absolute off roading.

  29. #29
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    I find that building something is more fun than getting a RTR, or taking something and using it in a way that it wasn't quite designed for is more fun. To each their own.

    Nonetheless, you'll have a fun pavement cruiser when you want do go that way.

    And yeah, I've been amazed at what speeds people get out of a Slash. Pretty incredible.

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    Took it out again with my X-maxx today






    I did some speed runs here, thinking of getting a GPS to do some speed runs as this has some serious poke!



    However, I had a issue where the dog bone has pulled out. No breakages, just struggling a bit with this, anyone else have this issue?


  31. #31
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Yeah it has happened to me. Does it look like your pillow balls have unthreaded at all on that arm?

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    Has happened to me too because of two things at least i think two... as nick pointed most importantly these pillow balls backing out is pretty common kepp an eye out, and second i dont run Limiting straps yet allowing for over extension. That being said this is kinda how i joticed my pillow balls backing out as the first tim i tree flipped and one came loose my dogbone pulled out as well it was difficult to sqeeze back in without taking apart and ripping the shock ends off stretching it... it was after refitting it that i saw my pillow ball was loose, i assumed it had ripped the threads out but was wrong when i found it threaded perfectly back in and tightened so i proceeded to start checking the rest every run and found that it was almost every run i had to tighten them or glue em alternately which hasnt been the best option.

    Long story short (too late for that huh) throw some limiting straps on and watch those balls and i suspect you wont have this issue. Hope that helps.

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  33. #33
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    Ill look into limiting straps, what size do you guys recommend?

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    You might try either some Teflon plumber's tape on the threads, or removing the balls, putting a small amount of super glue down the hole and letting it dry, then threading the balls back in. That will make the threads tight enough that it shouldn't back out again.

    Hope those help you.

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    IT don't look like they've backed out. I had this trouble with the balls pulling through but I now run alloy hubs

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    IT don't look like they've backed out. I had this trouble with the balls pulling through but I now run alloy hubs
    If they are only slightly loose you cant really see mine however by the time i woke up to this issue i could see about 4 or 5 threads on at least one all the way around my truck upon first inspection since i tried glue i only get 1 thread showing after a couple rough runs it didnt stop the problem but slowed it.

    I have yet to have the balls pull out but if i do, did the alloy hubs seem to solve this for you? Is it possibly due to less friction with the cup side? Which in turn may also reduce the problem of them backing out at the threads as stated in previous posts.

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    Ill look into limiting straps, what size do you guys recommend?
    Most of the people I see using them are using 80, 85, 0r 90. I put a set of 80mm ones on mine today. Looped in half through the alum chassis brace slot for each rear shock. I got lucky and found the same thread screws about 5 mm longer from the rustler vxl chassis upgrade/rebuild I did. I bought 2 pr figuring I would do all 4 corners for the heck of it but now I sorta wish I had just got the 2nd set in 85 or 90 in case I wanted to try them a bit longer.

    I haven't tested them yet, just got rained on at the outdoor track so I am thinking about taking it to the indoor track if the rain is going to last.

  38. #38
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    Where are you getting the straps from?

  39. #39
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    I am in the states and got them off amazon prime cuz I wanted them asap and my local shop only had 100's on the shelf (even though their site showed they had 90mm in stock).

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    Struggling to find the limiting straps!

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