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Thread: My 2.0

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    Struggling to find the limiting straps!
    Im going to simply make a set myself.

    Sent from my SM-T827R4 using Tapatalk

  2. #42
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    You ever have problems with the 17mm hex circling out in the wheel. wondering if I should get traxxas rims caz of the design in the wheel hex is strong. and put the badlands MX38 on the traxxas wheels

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMINATOR_088 View Post
    You ever have problems with the 17mm hex circling out in the wheel.
    Not with my E-revos splined rims never, but on other models such as my 2.5r revo and my 3.5 earthquake (both being nitro with what i say is less power than the brushless motor any day, both also having standard hexs of different sizes one 12mm one 14mm, quite annoying actually! Lol) ive had a few round out. I really like the splined rims they seem much stronger and im personally considering fitting them to all of my larger models in some way down the road.

    Sent from my SM-T827R4 using Tapatalk

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMINATOR_088 View Post
    You ever have problems with the 17mm hex circling out in the wheel. wondering if I should get traxxas rims caz of the design in the wheel hex is strong. and put the badlands MX38 on the traxxas wheels
    Not if you really tighten the wheels.

    Ive bought some Trenchers for this now so maybe 4th time lucky? haha

  5. #45
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    These came up fairly cheap so I snapped then up second hand, worth a try


  6. #46
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    Decided to take this for a bash today,*



    Found a spot under the M5 Motorway*for some speed runs



    And then this happened. Again. I wasn't even off road, it just falls out!!! The arm has enough thread. Such a design flaw, really getting tired of the E-Revo, thinking of selling it for a Rustler VXL or a Arrma Kraton 4s?



    Why am I having such an issue with it?

  7. #47
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    Yeah I have had my rear drive shaft fall out of that drive cup multiple times. Itís annoying and I think itís a design flaw. It happens to me when the suspension is at max height. Here are some lame solutions that will limit your suspension travel but, will stop the drive shaft from coming out.

    1. shorter push rod ends
    2. Limiting straps
    3. install a limiter internally inside your shocks https://youtu.be/gr3zHqVE5l0
    4. Check your pivot balls are not coming out. (I use blue lock tite and on the pivot ball caps as well)
    5. Extra long drive cups? (but, I havenít found anything yet)
    6. Install your push rod ends in the outer most hole (or the middle)
    Last edited by SorrowSpell; 06-01-2019 at 09:21 PM.

  8. #48
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    Not trying to argue...but wouldn't you not wanna got to the inner hole closest to the chassis as it lifts the truck and when u let the suspension sag or push when jumping lifting off the ground it would compound the issue and allow then to fall out. I agree with middle hole and would say outer most hole as it lowers the truck pushing the dog bone into the cup. Thoughts?

    How deep are your pillow balls screwed in on the arms?
    ABMods 3.3 Revo PE
    Jato 3.3
    Futaba 3PM

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Not trying to argue...but wouldn't you not wanna got to the inner hole closest to the chassis as it lifts the truck and when u let the suspension sag or push when jumping lifting off the ground it would compound the issue and allow then to fall out. I agree with middle hole and would say outer most hole as it lowers the truck pushing the dog bone into the cup. Thoughts?
    I agree with Rick here as the more drop in suspension you have when airborne the easier it will be for it to fall out as the distance between the cups increases. So the closer to the hole to the tire should give the tightest fit.

    Sent from my SM-T827R4 using Tapatalk

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xzinten View Post
    I agree with Rick here as the more drop in suspension you have when airborne the easier it will be for it to fall out as the distance between the cups increases. So the closer to the hole to the tire should give the tightest fit.

    Sent from my SM-T827R4 using Tapatalk
    I guess i read his post there wrong umm when you lift your truck up the suspension is extended making that gap between the drive cups increase, greatly increasing the chances of them falling out as this is the setting i have mine set on as i need the ride height. Hence the reason limiting straps are used keeping your suspension from overextending when the wheels are off the ground. I hope that helps clear that up.

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  11. #51
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    Limiting straps for the win!
    ABMods 3.3 Revo PE
    Jato 3.3
    Futaba 3PM

  12. #52
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    Ok, so woke up today feeling surprisingly ok considering I went out for the Football/Boxing. I had a lot of replies to a similar thread on the Traxxas forum so thought Id give the E-Revo another shot. Ive got a lot invested into this, and I know I could sell it on and get something else (Arrma probably) but I decided to give it another go. Ive also managed to get some 90mm Limiting straps, I think theyre going to be too long but they were the only ones I can find, not that I should be limiting the suspension travel on an RC that's supposed to have a lot of suspension travel....

    I took a bit of pre load of the shocks, and moved the push rods to the outer hole. I personally cannot see at least on the bench now how the arms can drop low enough for the driveshaft to pop out, they're in a fair bit. I also made sure all my pillow balls were tight (they were) and added some PFTE tape to the rears.

    To re iterate, here's my current suspension set up.

    Blue/Silver Springs
    Alloy Rod ends thread locked on
    Pushrods in outer hole on A-Arm
    Pillow Balls PFTE'd into Arms
    Alloy Hubs all round to prevent pillow balls pulling though.

    Ride height is set so A-arms are VERY SLIGHTLY above level when its resting.

    I am not running limiting straps at all.

    I charged up some lipos, and changed the wheels and after I went to the gym I took it to the park next door. However, the heavens opened and it was wet....





    I probably had the best fun Ive had with this car since using it. Im still not happy with the tyres, theyre woeful on grass although it was slightly wet (it cleared up very quick?) but on slightly damp road/path it was very good. Credit where credits due this thing is absolutely rapid I cant fault that. I probably spent 20 minutes with some tumbles and Im pleased to report, the dog bones stayed in.

    If Im honest, as bad as this sounds, I had in my head Im going to order a new RC to replace this, so I decided to be a bit harsher on it. I took it to the skate park *The skate park was damp so*couldn't really get the power down to do anything major (metal ramps +*rain water + dubious tyres). My aim was to*try and get the*driveshaft to pop out. You know what? I couldn't. I bashed it and crashed it and the driveshafts stayed in? Hopefully Ive cured it? Bare in mind yesterday it came out drive in a straight line on a path....

    I decided to call it a day whilst it still ran and drove back to my car and drove home. IT was covered in grass so Ive cleaned it up and noticed this



    Ive got a couple of opinions on this:

    a) I expected to break something on*a skate park. This part was £9 posted so not the end of the world
    b) with this centre skid broken, theres ALOT of flex in the chassis. I thought id broke the chassis too. Most RCs the centre skid is to protect the drivetrain, this appears to be structural, which isn't great

    c) And this is me playing devils advocate. I've literally had to spend my time and money REDUCING the ride height of this RC for it to operate properly. IF I could have had the box ride height, maybe the shocks would have done their job and this part not break?

    I'm now I two minds. Carry on with it or move on to pastures new?

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    Ok, so woke up today feeling surprisingly ok considering I went out for the Football/Boxing. I had a lot of replies to a similar thread on the Traxxas forum so thought Id give the E-Revo another shot. Ive got a lot invested into this, and I know I could sell it on and get something else (Arrma probably) but I decided to give it another go. Ive also managed to get some 90mm Limiting straps, I think theyre going to be too long but they were the only ones I can find, not that I should be limiting the suspension travel on an RC that's supposed to have a lot of suspension travel....

    I took a bit of pre load of the shocks, and moved the push rods to the outer hole. I personally cannot see at least on the bench now how the arms can drop low enough for the driveshaft to pop out, they're in a fair bit. I also made sure all my pillow balls were tight (they were) and added some PFTE tape to the rears.

    To re iterate, here's my current suspension set up.

    Blue/Silver Springs
    Alloy Rod ends thread locked on
    Pushrods in outer hole on A-Arm
    Pillow Balls PFTE'd into Arms
    Alloy Hubs all round to prevent pillow balls pulling though.

    Ride height is set so A-arms are VERY SLIGHTLY above level when its resting.

    I am not running limiting straps at all.

    I charged up some lipos, and changed the wheels and after I went to the gym I took it to the park next door. However, the heavens opened and it was wet....





    I probably had the best fun Ive had with this car since using it. Im still not happy with the tyres, theyre woeful on grass although it was slightly wet (it cleared up very quick?) but on slightly damp road/path it was very good. Credit where credits due this thing is absolutely rapid I cant fault that. I probably spent 20 minutes with some tumbles and Im pleased to report, the dog bones stayed in.

    If Im honest, as bad as this sounds, I had in my head Im going to order a new RC to replace this, so I decided to be a bit harsher on it. I took it to the skate park *The skate park was damp so*couldn't really get the power down to do anything major (metal ramps +*rain water + dubious tyres). My aim was to*try and get the*driveshaft to pop out. You know what? I couldn't. I bashed it and crashed it and the driveshafts stayed in? Hopefully Ive cured it? Bare in mind yesterday it came out drive in a straight line on a path....

    I decided to call it a day whilst it still ran and drove back to my car and drove home. IT was covered in grass so Ive cleaned it up and noticed this



    Ive got a couple of opinions on this:

    a) I expected to break something on*a skate park. This part was £9 posted so not the end of the world
    b) with this centre skid broken, theres ALOT of flex in the chassis. I thought id broke the chassis too. Most RCs the centre skid is to protect the drivetrain, this appears to be structural, which isn't great

    c) And this is me playing devils advocate. I've literally had to spend my time and money REDUCING the ride height of this RC for it to operate properly. IF I could have had the box ride height, maybe the shocks would have done their job and this part not break?

    I'm now I two minds. Carry on with it or move on to pastures new?
    Kpowell911

    I would put the ride height where you want it and just get the limiting straps. I think 90 will be ok.
    I installed my with 100mm in this configuration.



    This way you only need one pack of straps and it a bit cleaner.

    Also the tires you use limit the high of the chassis. It you used the Badlands and or The Trenchers you would have had more clearance. My origin tires ripped and I went with the Badlands. I think there great for dirt and grass but too bulky for all purpose. I bought the original OEM Talons and wheels separate and glued them myself. First I ran Duct tape from the sidewalk to sidewall cut the foam around the beads and glued them. I will run these and see how they hold up now. Hopefully better the the originals!

    I carry a duffle bag with all my replacement parts and tools when I run it. If the terrain changes I can change out the tires.

    Good luck with finding a happy medium. AND PUT THE STRAPS ON!
    Last edited by REVO-KN-EVIL; 06-02-2019 at 08:41 AM.

  14. #54
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    Glad to hear you had less problems! Tires have been my big point of interest since day one as i have blown all my stock tires out and had to replace them one at a time, honestly ive stuck with the Talon ext as they seem to be a good all around basher tire at first i thought they were garbage cuz they kept blowing out, but after inspecting them i concluded my truck must have been shelved for sometime before i purchased it because all the stock tires had began rotting around the beads. After gluing some new one to the rims i havent had issues... ive heard alot of controversy over tire type and it really seems that your best bet is go with what fits your drive style as everyone seems to have their own preferences. I do recommend trying to avoid heavier tires obviously especially if you're having issues with suspension travel.

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  15. #55
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    Thanks for that. Much prefer your method of mounting the limiting straps. Did you say yours are 100mm straps?

  16. #56
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    Still persevering! If this works, I'll treat her to a new shell and some Tubez once I work out the part numbers. IF it doesnt Ill sell it and go Arrma!

    Managed to get 90mm straps which are longer than I wanted but I had a plan. Shout out to A-Main for getting them too me so fast! I only ordered one packet as I say I had a plan. I know they were too long but I decided to switch to Trenchers and to increase the ride height and run the straps like this. As you can see now at full droop with the wheels off the ground there is no chance of the dog bones coming out. IF they do now its Pillow ball related



    Ive mounted them like this, I need longer screws I know but ill order them once Ive worked out what size the stocks are. Running one strap for the rear over the brace gives a neater installation and a reduces the droop comnsdierably



    At full droop with wheels suspended there's still lots of CVD in the cup

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/GhTq9rV.jpg[img]

    Same principle on front





    Anyone know the part numbers I need for the upgraded:

    Push Rods
    Steering Turnbuckles
    Rear Turnbuckles

    Thanks

  17. #57
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    Guessing:

    5338R. Rear Toe links
    8618R. Pushrods 2x packs needed
    8638R. Steering links?

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kpowell911 View Post
    Guessing:

    5338R. Rear Toe links
    8618R. Pushrods 2x packs needed
    8638R. Steering links?
    No it’s

    2x 8618

    2x 8638

    5338 might be compatible but that’s from the previous gen E Revo
    Last edited by SC11; 06-08-2019 at 02:14 PM.

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