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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    So I’ve been waiting on this for my final(lol) Rustler build. The diff gear is solid aluminum. 500k oil in the diff. All parts and pieces fit like a glove, with the exception of the I bar. I had to grind down one side of it so it would
    Fit. The setup is where FLM stepped its game up. The pictures will speak for themselves. Almost done with the build.




    It looks like you used the traxxas Teflon .5mm shims in there. Does anybody have an opinion or experience with using metal shims instead of the Teflon? Has anybody ever burned up one of the Teflon shims while running a high powered setup?

  2. #42
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    just installed this , WOW ! you guys need to get this, its so nice, never worry about breaking diff sun gears again! Gripdog was really on point with this, FLM did a great job , very impressed, get some rustler 4x4 driveshafts and your set , 1/8 motor on 4s baby! Let the fun begin

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    just installed this , WOW ! you guys need to get this, its so nice, never worry about breaking diff sun gears again! Gripdog was really on point with this, FLM did a great job , very impressed, get some rustler 4x4 driveshafts and your set , 1/8 motor on 4s baby! Let the fun begin
    Awesome! I still have a little soldering left to do for the motor wires, then weíll be ready to rip! I had to order a couple of last minute spur gears, because the stock 86 and 83t wonít clear the VXL camber link when using the FLM rear shock tower.

    Did you keep the I bar in the diff? Any pics?

  4. #44
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    i didnt use the bar, it takes up too much space and i cant add much fluid

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    i didnt use the bar, it takes up too much space and i cant add much fluid
    Gotta add it before and after the I bar, and rotate the gears as well


    Somehow builds are never done....

  6. #46
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    good point

  7. #47
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    its finally together , can you say overkill , traxxas 2400kv -4s, paddle tires , biggest gears I can fit 28p, 54 spur (32p) vts slipper with gardo pads ,I ll post pics in a few

  8. #48
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    here you go


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  9. #49
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    Sorry for the blue painters tape , it keeps the sand out of the gears

  10. #50
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    We’ll see if the rustler 4x4 driveshafts hold up , I hate to add more weight to the back of the car with metal driveshafts

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    We’ll see if the rustler 4x4 driveshafts hold up , I hate to add more weight to the back of the car with metal driveshafts

    Nice job man! I finished mine up a few days ago too. Really happy with the results! Just curious about a couple of things. How well does your slipper clutch work with that setup? I have a Castle mamba x 1/10 with a sensored hobbywing 2250kV motor, 83t spur, 35t pinion. I’m using the hot racing hd slipper and if I go anymore than maybe 1/10 turn out it slips way too much. I also have bigger tires that I got kinda by accident from j concepts. They’re called choppers, and they were listed as being specific for the 2WD Rustler, but they have a much larger rolling circumference.

    Other question- what is the advantage of using 32p or mod 1 for the spur/pinion? I’ve heard that 1/8 scale setups use them where there is more load on the gears. But if the internal tranny gears are 48p, why not use that all around?

    Last question- how did you post those pics? Do you really need to set up an account with some third party posting site, or is there a workaround? I primarily come here on an iPhone, but I have a laptop too.

    Those tires look mean by the way! Happy bashing!

    Thanks,
    Ryan

  12. #52
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    I use small tires , 2.2 sand paws , less stress on slipper and driveshafts. The team associated vts slipper is great .
    32p gears are easier to set and are stronger , if your motor moves a bit the gears will not stip unlike the 48p.
    download taptalk to post you pics .

    enjoy da new gearbox!

  13. #53
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    these are similar slipper pads that I use , they never wear out, you can set them and forget them


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  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    I use small tires , 2.2 sand paws , less stress on slipper and driveshafts. The team associated vts slipper is great .
    32p gears are easier to set and are stronger , if your motor moves a bit the gears will not stip unlike the 48p.
    download taptalk to post you pics .

    enjoy da new gearbox!
    Thanks for all the info! Iíll probably switch over to the VTS slipper and 32p after I strip all of my traxxas plastic spurs 😏

    Iíll check out the taptalk app and post some pics at some point too!

  15. #55
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    stay with small light wheels and tires , I had so much trouble when running badlands , too big and too much strees on everything, broke driveshafts , gears ....

  16. #56
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  17. #57
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  18. #58
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    Seems like tapatalk reeeealy wants you to pay for the VIP versions so that you can post multiple pics and not have to wait more than 60 seconds between posts. Little annoying, but I get it...


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  19. #59
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  20. #60
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  21. #61
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    Anyways, hereís some pics of my little guyís Rustler (heís 4, bit of a lead-foot). Iím pretty sure by this point Iíve figured out where the vehicle needs stiffening up, and where flexibility helps.

    I kept the RPM front arms, used STRC castor blocks and bulkhead, titanium hinge pins everywhere. VXL turnbuckles all around. STRC arms in the back seem pretty solid, and the FLM rear shock tower matched up nice to their tranny, although there was some dremelling required to fit proper in the chassis. MIP X-Duty driveshafts, proline shocks (pretty stiff setup-this thing is heavy), and lastly, an aluminum underguard that I epoxied right on to the chassis. Pretty sure my kid will still find a way to break something .


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  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    stay with small light wheels and tires , I had so much trouble when running badlands , too big and too much strees on everything, broke driveshafts , gears ....
    Yeah, I had no idea those tires would be so massive. I thought because they were 2.8Ē, theyíd be like stock. They are ridiculously heavy. I had to balance them using some epoxy putty that I had kicking around.

    I will say, they have amazing grip on just about any surface, especially the dirt track at my local hobby shop. Great on the trails in the woods around here also.


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  23. #63
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    omg those tires are massive ! lol
    Do you like the sensored motor ?
    I see y you have slipper issues, that is alot of weight between those tires and driveshafts alone
    Nice setup

  24. #64
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    You guys have to keep in mind 2.2, and 2.8 are wheel sizes, not tire sizes. Your sons ride looks good, the STRC arms will bend the cross members in a crash, gotta be a bad one though, I still run them reguardless



    Somehow builds are never done....

  25. #65
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    Hey guys, yeah I know the 2.2/2.8 refers to wheel diameter. I couldnít find specs on the tire itself and unfortunately for those choppers, I couldnít find any spec that would give me rolling circumference. So I just rolled the dice (poorly). Itís kind of fun to drive on those in the woods though, almost keeps up with the TRX4 Sport.

    I really like the sensored motor! I had a Castle SCT with the 1410 3800kV in there prior, and it was noticeably more coggy at low speed. On the other hand, I have a Sidewinder 4 in my Kyosho Optima with an uncensored 3800, and it is very very smooth.

    I ordered up the 2.2 choppers and 2.2 carvers with some proper wheels for future use.


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  26. #66
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    Question for you on the wheels- If Iím using jconcepts 2.2Ē wheels, do you think it would be ok to run the Rustler fronts at all four corners? I wasnít able to find a matching set of front and rears for some reason. The stock rears have a higher (more positive) offset than the front, so the only issue I can see is that the fronts would stick out a little further in the back.


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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    I use small tires , 2.2 sand paws , less stress on slipper and driveshafts. The team associated vts slipper is great .
    32p gears are easier to set and are stronger , if your motor moves a bit the gears will not stip unlike the 48p.
    download taptalk to post you pics .

    enjoy da new gearbox!
    Is that VTS slipper even available anymore? It looks to be discontinued but Iím seeing some random parts on eBay. Not sure exactly what Iíd need to set it up.


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  28. #68
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    the slipper is available but not the gardio pads, you can get the team associated pads though, its sad because those pads are awesome but cost a pretty penny from rcsox

  29. #69
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    Found Ďem! Thanks for the tip. I also found a slipper shaft from ST Racing that claims to be designed for use with the associated clutch. Is that what youíre using, or are you able to run the stock shaft?


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  30. #70
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    You need the strc shaft to run the vts slipper

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    You need the strc shaft to run the vts slipper
    Thanks! Do you know anything about the Avid slipper?


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  32. #72
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    never used one but looks just like the vts setup , maybe try it

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Seems like tapatalk reeeealy wants you to pay for the VIP versions so that you can post multiple pics and not have to wait more than 60 seconds between posts. Little annoying, but I get it...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you're using Tapatalk on your phone you should be able to post up to 9 pictures plus whatever information you would like to post with those nine pictures. I just wanted to let you know you are able do I have multiple photos without paying for VIP. Cuz I have a few different threads I've multiple builds as well every time I post if need be I will fill up in 9 photos and then wait 60 seconds and post more just a little FYI

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    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    If you're using Tapatalk on your phone you should be able to post up to 9 pictures plus whatever information you would like to post with those nine pictures. I just wanted to let you know you are able do I have multiple photos without paying for VIP. Cuz I have a few different threads I've multiple builds as well every time I post if need be I will fill up in 9 photos and then wait 60 seconds and post more just a little FYI

    Sent from my SM-J327R4 using Tapatalk
    No kidding! Iíll try that next time. I could swear it said I was only allowed to post one pic at a time, but maybe it was just the 60 second warning I was getting.

    Appreciate the info!


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  35. #75
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    I know its mentioned once or twice about not using this diff for bashing, but if anyone does please let me know! I run the HR diff and HR housing (aluminium) I always break the stock diff gears nobody made replacement upgraded gears. I asked HR last year they said it was to expensive to machine those diff gears and then sell them. Tried different greases all failed except Badhorsie which has only made a mes I never finished assembly. I was ready to toss my builds until seeing this post! I now see that FLM tells you to use 6882x gears The gears I referred to breaking are the 2382 set.
    Last edited by NickMan; 08-25-2019 at 05:17 PM.

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickMan View Post
    I know its mentioned once or twice about not using this diff for bashing, but if anyone does please let me know! I run the HR diff and HR housing (aluminium) I always break the stock diff gears nobody made replacement upgraded gears. I asked HR last year they said it was to expensive to machine those diff gears and then sell them. Tried different greases all failed except Badhorsie which has only made a mes I never finished assembly. I was ready to toss my builds until seeing this post! I now see that FLM tells you to use 6882x gears The gears I referred to breaking are the 2382 set.
    Hey man,

    I use this exclusively for bashing with my four year old. Weíve probably run about a dozen or so packs through- 2s, 3s, and the diff still feels like the first day I put it together. I used traxxas 50k diff fluid, and itís nice but 80k might also be nice, depending on what you like.

    I would say the fit and finish to the chassis isnít stellar. Plan on using a dremel to shave here and there. Take your time, get some nice shims or the traxxas Teflon if thatís all you have. I read on an rc airplane forum that the rule of thumb is: Teflon for bushings, metal shims for bearings. Donít really know if thatís true, but swapping in metal shims at the hubs certainly helped to make the wheels spin better after tightening the nuts down.

    For this tranny, I used metal shims.

    Good luck man!


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  37. #77
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    Also, you might have a hard time fitting various wheelie bars on the new transmission, but this one works nicely, and seems very tough/well built:
    https://www.ebay.com/p/87039-TBR-Nm3...iABEgKGJPD_BwE


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  38. #78
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    This diff looks awesome. When did FLM release this? Anyone have an opinion about whether the 2 spider gear arrangement is better/worse than the sun and planet gears that are stock?

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by smirk-racing View Post
    This diff looks awesome. When did FLM release this? Anyone have an opinion about whether the 2 spider gear arrangement is better/worse than the sun and planet gears that are stock?
    About 8 months ago Iíd say. Itís the best thing to make your tranny stronger. Super smooth, and quiet as well


    Somehow builds are never done....

  40. #80
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    Seems a lot better all around. I had the original transmission case (which was fine) and the sealed differential (which was ok). I never understood why it was 3 pieces (instead of 2, like this new version) and the fitment was a tiny bit off (few mm). I also felt like the sun and planet gears were not quite up to 4s and big motors, but the Traxxas spider gears should be ok. I also use to run very high weight oil to get diff action with the sun and planet gears. The bevel and spider gears should work with 'normal' oil weights.

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