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  1. #1
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    Rebuilt X-Maxx for high jumping fun!

    Bought this sweet X-Maxx 8S little while back and been doing the necessary free/cheap mods. Last step is going to be soldering up XT150 connectors all around and then testing time!

    Drove friends' X-Maxx, blasted around my Rustler 4x4VXL with them and finally decided to buy a new truck! Been reading all around the net and appreciate y'alls threads that have given some good input!
    Started with new XMaxx and began collecting parts.

    CEN suspension pivot pins
    WD-40 soaked upper/lower a-arms
    RPM rear carrier hubs with the upgraded larger bearings
    BadHorsie shock socks/covers
    Team Losi 40w and 50w shock oils for future tuning
    Stock springs for now, gotta decide on which stiffer set to get
    High quality thick flat washers under motor mount screws
    HW Max6 ESC
    HK XT-150 plugs for batteries and ESC
    Antenna mount shaved off of box lid, hole reamed and CA'd into the lid itself, one less wire going out of the box and more ESC room
    Traxxas 2085X Waterproof Digital High Torque Servo with Metal Gears (includes stiffer saver spring and adjustable steel linkage)
    Dialed out all the TSM crap
    Removed rear wheelybar assembly, don't like it on Rustler and it actually wrecked rear of body even quicker
    Filled all voids under front/rear skidplates (and bottomside of steering posts) ala Kevin Talbot's video with JBWeld Plastic Bonder
    Trimmed front and rear of body just above the bumpers, removed about 3/16" down the sides where it gets jammed into the chassis and cracks
    Added steel/rubber backed washers between body at cage attachment points
    Reinforced key areas inside body with drywall mesh tape and E6000
    Checked all screw tightness
    Need to buy/make a shim for CushDrive endplay reduction

    Batteries at first are GensAce 3S 45C 4500mah hardcase, really consider 50c as minimum batteries for this but I already have these for Rustler so we'll see. Looking to get a little larger capacity, but want to keep the weight down for jumping and bashing. Probably will go with some 4S pairs to make it 8S, just deciding which ones first, I've puffed too many lipos over the years. Buy quality and buy once when I can.

    Bought 18/50 Traxxas steel gears and a bunch of spares, just in case lol. Looking forward to good times and much fun!
    Last edited by Natedog; 03-12-2019 at 01:00 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Pictures, because everybody loves pictures, me included.
    Right out of the box!

    IMG_3541 by Nathan C, on Flickr


    Planned battery wire routing, no jumper...batteries will plug to each other and then to the esc.

    IMG_3666 by Nathan C, on Flickr
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  3. #3
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    The motor really likes higher gearing and it will give you more speed off jumps and wheel speed to correct in air. I'm currently running 20/46 which is about 50mph on 8S.

    I think the stock springs are too soft, especially for big jumping like you'll want to do. The rear bottom arms showed they were hitting the ground a lot. I now have the 1.4xx springs in the front and 1.5xx in the rear and stock oil still.

  4. #4
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    Good to know, it gets hot as heck here in summer (100-110F is common) so gotta watch temps. I'm looking at fan upgrades for the motor YR has been great for buddies and in other vehicles.

    Agree with you on the stock springs, just unsure which ones to order yet, buddy has 1.2 rates F/R and noticed the other day that he's got about double stock spring preload, so that indicates to me that they are too soft too. On my other high speed big jump trucks I've had good luck with same rate front and rear springs, but I'm going to try different setups.
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  5. #5
    RC Champion rizz0d's Avatar
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    looks good. be sure to post some pics/vids of your jumping shenanigans.

    i've gone pretty big on stock springs, the 50wt oil made a big difference.
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  6. #6
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    We run 1.4ís and 50 weight oil on the front and 1.5 springs and 60 weight oil in the back on my grandsons truck.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbond12 View Post
    We run 1.4’s and 50 weight oil on the front and 1.5 springs and 60 weight oil in the back on my grandsons truck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Sounds like a good oil/spring combo to me

  8. #8
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    Thanks guys, will try to get some worthy pics/vids. I'm really leaning towards springs stiffer than the 1.2s
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  9. #9
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    Went speed running and jumping yesterday, omg this truck is awesome!!! T-Maxx and Savage both with the proper hopups were great, but this X-Maxx is 1000 times more fun! Hit a steel post, couple of large unmovable rocks (not at full speed, but fast enough) and nothing broken yet, buddy cracked upper arm and that's it for the day. Ordered some 4s batteries and a second charger. He's got 1.2 springs and judging by driving together, I ordered 1.3 springs F/R and will go from there.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I've found that the heavier oil is more important than the springs. I've now gone to 60 wt rear oil and I may drop to the 1.3s myself. Once our Bashplex dries up I'm gonna get it 25 ft up again and see how the softer springs hold up.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  11. #11
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    Good point on the oil, any hit will blow through springs and travel if not properly damped. Stock is 30wt, I've got 40 and 50, debating on which to go up to as I want to preserve some of the rough ground compliance. Probably try 40wt first, if the oil is still clean enough I'll put it in some empty shock bottles I've got laying around, lot of oil to just dump in the trash. Wonder if it's recyclable?

    What do you hope to gain by going back to 1.3 springs? Looking forward to your pictures and results.

    I've seen a few peeps selling axle cvd boots to fit X-Maxx, didn't seem like a great idea, but maybe it would help drive cups and cvd bone ends to last longer? Boot them and lube with graphite powder or? Definitely not a fan of grease or oil in this application. Buddy's 6S drive cups wore out kinda fast. My 8S cups so far aren't really showing much wear.

    I'm also starting to get suspension slop front and rear, like this:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYJcl8pc4Ao
    Last edited by Natedog; 03-19-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I noticed the slop right after I bought mine too
    https://youtu.be/AErdJFXxvjE
    I shoogooed them to the bulks and everything has been fine for nearly 2 seasons now

    I'm gonna drop to softer springs as an experiment as my oil has been too thin. I swapped in the 1.5s in rear off the bat. Never tried anything else. I bought all the spring rates to tune the front. I'm wondering if I'm oversprung. I've been trying to dial in more steering since I bought the truck. Now I have more than I need. A quick swap to the 1.3 or 1.4s should let me know if I get some rear traction back.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  13. #13
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    Yep, that's what me and buddies are noticing too, mines not quite that bad yet though. We were discussing screwing the tie-bar to the bulkhead, maybe with ShoeGoo or ShoeGoo instead.

    Good idea, good to match spring rate with damping otherwise handling can be a bit off. That's why I'm going up two spring rates, easier to see if it's too much or still not enough when adjusting a bit more than you think it needs. I'm pretty happy with steering so far, running stock shock oil/springs and differentials fluid setup.

    4S batteries arrived and gotta try them out. Think my springs may have arrived too.
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  14. #14
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    1.3 rate springs seem just about right, currently. Got some good air yesterday, lots of hard tumbles and several nasty jump landings! Bent a front shock shaft near the end of the daylight, didn't jump anymore after that, just high speed running and wheelies. Didn't want to bugger up the shock cartridge since only a little daylight left, pretty sure it was this one really rough high jump landing onto right front wheel. I'll swap in the Traxxas TiN shaft on that one, rear shocks seem less likely to bend shafts, but we'll see.

    8S freakin awesome, not going to bother with anymore 6S!!! My new 4S soft-sided lipos are starting to get chewed up on the bottoms from sand and small rocks, I've seen some people wrap their soft lipos to protect them, what are you using and do you recommend?

    Used the HW box on Max6 ESC to dial back brakes to 37.5% (50% is default), set reverse to 50% (25% was default, wish I could set it to 100%), raised lipo cut-off to high (default was medium, but packs have been coming out at 3.1-3.2v per cell which is too low imo).

    Front bumper lower brace is now bent like a 'Z' and will probably break soon, rear inner/outer bumper pieces got tweaked around and I couldn't pry it back, will have to take it apart and reassemble properly. Buddies broke couple RPM lower bumper braces and bumpers, so I ordered couple Traxxas parts for spares. Rear bumper mount screws that go into the shock tower came loose, tightened and then replaced with some longer 20mm screws (instead of stock 16mm). Thinking about drilling out upper bumper mount/brace front and rear and replacing the two screws that come loose with one long screw with washer and locknut, would be stronger, faster to disassemble/reassemble and wouldn't come loose like the two screws threading into plastic does.
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  15. #15
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    Ordered some 3M 1080 carbon fiber simulated wrap to wrap my soft case lipos in, hope it protect them against sand, grit and gravel. Factory battery hold downs are ingenious and seems to work well with Traxxas lipos and others of same dimensions, but I had to use some foam to take up height for soft lipos and this appears to allow junk to get under them during running, velcro straps should greatly reduce this.

    Bought spare front and rear bumper brackets and new shock cartridges. Going to swap in traxxas TiN shafts with them. Ordered Unlimited Engineering TiNI shock shaft set.
    Last edited by Natedog; 03-31-2019 at 01:24 PM.
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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Is this shrink wrap or like an adheasive body style wrap?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  17. #17
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    Adhesive auto body wrap 3.5mil (0.035”) thick.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rizz0d View Post
    looks good. be sure to post some pics/vids of your jumping shenanigans.

    i've gone pretty big on stock springs, the 50wt oil made a big difference.
    I need to see more of your jump videos Sir! You have not posted to ya Youtube in ages.

  19. #19
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    Here's the wrap I bought, it's sold by the linear foot and is 5' wide.
    3M 1080 CF12 BLACK CARBON FIBER Vinyl Vehicle Car Trim Wrap Film Sheet Roll
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-1080-CF1...72.m2749.l2649

    GensAce 3S hardcase lipos are all out of balance after 4-5 months and they said could only give me discount coupon for next purchase, lol I'll pass. All four of them are wacked, I'll post couple pics later, one took 224 minutes to balance charge, cells were 4.18, 4.20 and 4.21 as it neared peak, they were off more than that when I started from storage charge.

    Did the velcro battery strap mod, way more secure than stock clamps and now can quickly and easily fit most any lipos, 3s, 4S, etc. I drilled two 3/32" holes for each strap slot and then carefully used my Dremel on lowest speed to connect the drilled holes and cleaned up with sharp razor blade.

    Still need to make some front inner fenders. Even though I drywall mesh, E6000 reinforced the body, it's taking a beating and has worn holes through in several places.

    18/50 gearing is definitely better than stock, more power and speed on 8S! Replaced pinion gear as it was kinda chewed, I didn't quite get the gear cover seated all the way around. The cover fits very snug and the groove helps keep sand and dirt out but not when you don't seat it properly, oops. Cleaned all the debris out and little dab of grease on the new metal to metal gears.
    Last edited by Natedog; 06-03-2019 at 04:55 PM.
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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I'v moved back to the 1.5 springs and 60 wt oil again. With the 1.3 springs the rear was slapping off of jump faces and nosing down off of the jumps. It's now working great and I'm sticking with this setup now.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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