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  1. #1
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    New diff and/or trans case

    After I opened up my differential after my rustler vxl3s broke down all of the gears inside were shredded. Been wondering about locked diffs now and now that I have to buy a new diff itís the perfect time. Does anybody have suggestions on what to buy? I have had my diff for 4 years now and would rather not reuse the outside gear. Iíve also had my stock trans case for a while and was looking to upgrade, what is a strong case that will hold up to bashing on all terrain and fits right out of the box? Drivetrain is mostly stock except MIP metal driveshafts.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    The problem doesn't sound like it's the diff, or the diff gears, but the lack of maintence. In the 4yrs you've owned the vehicle, have you ever cleaned the diff housings & gears, and re-greased them? Have you ever opened the planet gear cases (inside the diff cases), and replaced the diff fluid? Just like real cars, RC vehicles also require maintenance.

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  3. #3
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    I have to admit, I don’t maintain my car as well as I should and with my new diff and trans case I will try to do better on that front. I have cleaned and regreased, but not as much as I should. I’ve probably maintenanced the trans overall without doing inside the diff about 2 times a year and did the diff only about 3 times in the time that I’ve owned it

  4. #4
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    I'd replace your old parts with stock parts. Diff is very strong, and probably best left unlocked for all terrain bashing. I think a locked diff would make it a bit squirelly.

    Stock tranny box is the best thing I've ever used. The main competition for this (at least for cheap) is the RPM gearbox, but on the two I owned the screws backed out. I know I didn't strip them, and they should not need threadlock when screwing into plastic. Also, I've heard a lot of complaint about the gearbox being too flexible. IDK if that was why my diff gear kept stripping, or if it was just bad tolerances. Just get a stock gearbox, and put a bumper or wheelie bar on the rear for protection.

    Also, regreasing 3 times in 4 years doesn't seem that horrible. I pretty much do bare minimum for maintenance on my Rustler and Bandit and the diffs are fine. Of course the Rustler's diff has been replaced since I got the truck 2 years ago (I wonder why).

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC_N3RD View Post
    I'd replace your old parts with stock parts. Diff is very strong.....

    .....and they should not need threadlock when screwing into plastic.
    Instead of replacing with the stock parts, there is another/better option, which would stand up to LOT more about (plus, in some ways, it is still "stock". Using the stock diff housings, replace the diff gears & planet gears work the XO-1 diff gears & planet gears.

    As for not needing threadlock when screwing into plastic, not (necessarily) true. If you look at the build instructions for almost any kit, you'll find numerous places where they tell you to use threadlock when screwing into plastic. Some screws needed threadlock, some nothing at all, and others needed black grease.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Instead of replacing with the stock parts, there is another/better option, which would stand up to LOT more about (plus, in some ways, it is still "stock". Using the stock diff housings, replace the diff gears & planet gears work the XO-1 diff gears & planet gears.

    As for not needing threadlock when screwing into plastic, not (necessarily) true. If you look at the build instructions for almost any kit, you'll find numerous places where they tell you to use threadlock when screwing into plastic. Some screws needed threadlock, some nothing at all, and others needed black grease.

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    They donít fit in the stock diff. FLM does have another option now, but itís not cheap.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    They donít fit in the stock diff.
    That's interesting, considering Traxxas, themselves, not only says they fit, but they also provide step-by-step directions on how to do it:

    https://m.traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4...ential-upgrade

    As an "additional note", they also provide a step-by-step on how to upgrade the driveshafts with XO-1 driveshafts.

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  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the help guys, I think I will still buy a new trans box just because mine is pretty worn out and I’m still undecided on the diff. If I buy a stock diff, what kind of grease/lube/oil should I put in it?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    That's interesting, considering Traxxas, themselves, not only says they fit, but they also provide step-by-step directions on how to do it:

    https://m.traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4...ential-upgrade

    As an "additional note", they also provide a step-by-step on how to upgrade the driveshafts with XO-1 driveshafts.

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    It looks like that is for the slash 4x4 right? I have a 2wd rustler, sorry for not specifying. Not used to the 4x4 rustler even existing, don’t hear much about it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    That's interesting, considering Traxxas, themselves, not only says they fit, but they also provide step-by-step directions on how to do it:

    https://m.traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4...ential-upgrade

    As an "additional note", they also provide a step-by-step on how to upgrade the driveshafts with XO-1 driveshafts.

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    Wrong forum man. Not trying to be rude, but before coming at me with ďthatís interestingĒ, make sure youíre talking about the vehicle in question. The FLM option is still out there. Iíve detailed the process and parts used in one of my posts.

  11. #11
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    That's interesting, considering Traxxas, themselves, not only says they fit, but they also provide step-by-step directions on how to do it:

    https://m.traxxas.com/news/slash-4x4...ential-upgrade

    As an "additional note", they also provide a step-by-step on how to upgrade the driveshafts with XO-1 driveshafts.
    Yeah, that's for a 4x4, which actually makes sense. The diffs in almost any 4x4 RC look very similar. unfortunately the 2wd RCs come with a completely different diff, so that won't actually work.

    As for not needing threadlock when screwing into plastic, not (necessarily) true. If you look at the build instructions for almost any kit, you'll find numerous places where they tell you to use threadlock when screwing into plastic. Some screws needed threadlock, some nothing at all, and others needed black grease.
    I've never seen anyone or any instructions that say to use threadlock on plastic. Granted I haven't built any non-Traxxas RC kits, but I have had to use the RPM instruction manual to assemble their gearbox, and it definitely did not say to use threadlock, so it should not need threadlock.

    I’m still undecided on the diff. If I buy a stock diff, what kind of grease/lube/oil should I put in it?
    As for the diff, I'd still recommend stock. When your diff stripped was the idler gear also stripped? Those are usually the weakest gear inside the tranny. To grease it, you can use all kinds of stuff inside. Think like an automotive multi-purpose grease or marine grease maybe. You should be able to see what other people use. For the outside of the diff gear (and the rest of the tranny gears) I like to use white lithium grease. Again though, you usually could use a few different greases. One precaution though, just make sure that you use grease and not oil. The diff is not sealed so oil would just spill right out.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC_N3RD View Post
    I've never seen anyone or any instructions that say to use threadlock on plastic. Granted I haven't built any non-Traxxas RC kits.....
    As you haven't built any kits, then you really don't know. I've built two TLR kits (1/10 2WD buggy, & 1/8 4WD buggy), plus I'm in the process of building a Team Associated lit (2WD short course truck), and ALL 3 kits include threadlock into plastic.

    I'm guessing you haven't taken your Traxxas vehicle(s) apart much. If you had, you would have probably noticed the blue on the ends of a number of screws...that's threadlock. I have 2 Rusty 4xs, and a Slash 4x, and all 3 have factory threadlocked screws.

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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Oh, so thats what that stuff is! I have been wondering what it was for a while now. Thanks for that random bit of knowledge! I might've started a thread about it...
    I like free stuff!

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    Oh, so thats what that stuff is! I have been wondering what it was for a while now. Thanks for that random bit of knowledge! I might've started a thread about it...
    Lol
    Blue is "medium-strength threadlock", red is "high-strength threadlock" (usually found in automotive & motorcycle stuff), purple is "low-strength threadlock", & green is "dried alien blood".

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  15. #15
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    Bear, if you are upgrading the trans case or just replacing the worn case with a new stock one you should at least consider doing the following:

    1. Hot Racing Sealed Differential and 100k diff fluid. You should probably purchase new stock diff gears (pretty cheap, should include the sun/solar gears the four planetary gears and pins as well as the output gear/shafts. If you don't know what a sealed differential does, read about it.
    2. Might as well upgrade the idler gear to a Robinson Racing hardened steel gear.
    3. Install some nice ceramic bearings.
    4. If you go with a stock case...check out the strc metal motor mount plate. It offers a solid surface for your motor to mount onto as well as a good heat sink for your motor temperature.

    The no-brainer in the equation for me is a sealed diff. I know it adds some cost, but you should notice a big difference between the stock open diff and a sealed diff. Just be sure to check out some of the build threads to to get the diff shimmed properly. If you are set on using the stock diff, you may want to check out some of the methods to seal the stock diff. I made a thread showing how I did it basically copying the hr diff, but others have shown success with a variety of methods. I'm shooting 6/7. One of my modded stock diffs leaked but the others have been great.
    Last edited by Synnergy; 03-22-2019 at 02:58 AM.
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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bear2216 View Post
    It looks like that is for the slash 4x4 right? I have a 2wd rustler, sorry for not specifying. Not used to the 4x4 rustler even existing, donít hear much about it.
    Did I get the 2WD & 4WD threads mixed up again? Charlie Brown got me again.

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Bear, if you are upgrading the trans case or just replacing the worn case with a new stock one you should at least consider doing the following:

    1. Hot Racing Sealed Differential and 100k diff fluid. You should probably purchase new stock diff gears (pretty cheap, should include the sun/solar gears the four planetary gears and pins as well as the output gear/shafts. If you don't know what a sealed differential does, read about it.
    2. Might as well upgrade the idler gear to a Robinson Racing hardened steel gear.
    3. Install some nice ceramic bearings.
    4. If you go with a stock case...check out the strc metal motor mount plate. It offers a solid surface for your motor to mount onto as well as a good heat sink for your motor temperature.

    The no-brainer in the equation for me is a sealed diff. I know it adds some cost, but you should notice a big difference between the stock open diff and a sealed diff. Just be sure to check out some of the build threads to to get the diff shimmed properly. If you are set on using the stock diff, you may want to check out some of the methods to seal the stock diff. I made a thread showing how I did it basically copying the hr diff, but others have shown success with a variety of methods. I'm shooting 6/7. One of my modded stock diffs leaked but the others have been great.
    Thanks, definitely have some research to do now! Also, looks like I’m about to spend way too much money on my rustler again if I want a slash 4x4 VXL by this summer. One more thing, are the bearings inside the motor ceramic bearings? I will just order them if they are because I would rather keep them traxxas if I can.
    Last edited by Bear2216; 03-22-2019 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Wanted to ask question withou making new reply

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    As you haven't built any kits, then you really don't know. I've built two TLR kits (1/10 2WD buggy, & 1/8 4WD buggy), plus I'm in the process of building a Team Associated lit (2WD short course truck), and ALL 3 kits include threadlock into plastic.

    I'm guessing you haven't taken your Traxxas vehicle(s) apart much. If you had, you would have probably noticed the blue on the ends of a number of screws...that's threadlock. I have 2 Rusty 4xs, and a Slash 4x, and all 3 have factory threadlocked screws.
    I haven't built any full RC kits, but i have built the RPM gearbox, multiple times, so I definitely do know about that.

    And yes, I have noticed the blue threadlock on the screws that go into METAL parts, such as the motor, nuts on the stub axles, and that's about it I think. Definitely have never seen it on plastic parts. I'm pretty familiar with the Traxxas 1/10th scales since I work on them all the time. Pretty hard not to when you beat them to death as much as I do. Also happen to be quite capable of working on the Emaxx and Tmaxx since the Emaxx was my first ever hobby grade RC.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    These ceramic bearings are expensive. From all the recommendations I made before, the diff is the main thing. Here is a link to some protek metal shielded ceramic bearings...but they are 12$ for two. You need six total.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-10060/p32033

    The stock bearings are trx# 5116. The stock bearings would be fine, and they are much less expensive at $3.50/2

    There are other brands as well like Fast Eddy and other have their favorites.

    I'd rather spend $36 on the diff upgrade, fwiw.
    MTFBWY

  20. #20
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Instead of replacing with the stock parts, there is another/better option, which would stand up to LOT more about (plus, in some ways, it is still "stock". Using the stock diff housings, replace the diff gears & planet gears work the XO-1 diff gears & planet gears.

    As for not needing threadlock when screwing into plastic, not (necessarily) true. If you look at the build instructions for almost any kit, you'll find numerous places where they tell you to use threadlock when screwing into plastic. Some screws needed threadlock, some nothing at all, and others needed black grease.

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    This entire post is pretty much wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    As you haven't built any kits, then you really don't know. I've built two TLR kits (1/10 2WD buggy, & 1/8 4WD buggy), plus I'm in the process of building a Team Associated lit (2WD short course truck), and ALL 3 kits include threadlock into plastic.
    I've built about 10 TLR and Team Associated kits and I'm pretty sure none of them have you use threadlock on plastic. Black grease, yes, a little CA glue, maybe, but not something like blue loctite.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 03-22-2019 at 11:19 PM.
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  21. #21
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    This entire post is pretty much wrong.



    I've built about 10 TLR and Team Associated kits and I'm pretty sure none of them have you use threadlock on plastic. Black grease, yes, a little CA glue, maybe, but not something like blue loctite.
    Then, maybe you nned to look at the build instructions for the 8ight-XE & 22 5.0 SR, as BOTH include the use of threadlock into plastic parts...and, yes, I HAVE built both vehicles.
    Last edited by Panther6834; 03-23-2019 at 01:04 AM.
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  22. #22
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Then, maybe you nned to look at the build instructions for the 8ight-XE & 22 5.0 SR, as BOTH include the use of threadlock into plastic parts...and, yes, I HAVE built both vehicles.
    I don't have an XE, but I have a 5.0 SR and looked at the manual again. There is no step that says to put threadlock on something that screws into plastic. Only metal on metal, which is what threadlock is for.

    Rather than continue to say things that are wrong, point out the step in the 5.0 SR build where you're supposed to use threadlock for a plastic part.
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  23. #23
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    Well, I looked up the manual for the 8ight-XE and I can't find a single step that actually says to use threadlock on a plastic part. It does use threadlock, but all of it goes into metal parts. Manual: http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...nual-MULTI.pdf

    Even then, all kits aside, the OP asked about transmission upgrades for a Traxxas 1/10th scale 2wd, and the specific upgrade we are discussing is the RPM gearbox. The manual for the RPM gearbox does not tell you to use threadlock on any part of it that is plastic. Since all of the screws go into plastic, you should not need to use threadlock on it at all, which brings me back to my original point that the screws should not fall out, even though they don't use threadlock.

  24. #24
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    I definitely wouldn’t use threadlocker on plastic. For one, threadlocker has a tendency to damage plastic and make it brittle, and for two, threadlocker needs metal-on-metal contact to actually work. So it won’t do it’s job if any of the parts are plastic. I work on industrial equipment for a living, and I’ve seen a lot of threadlocker in my day, but none of it has ever been on plastic. Plastic parts basically threadlock themselves.

    For what it’s worth, my erevo 2.0 is currently sitting in pieces due to swapping out diff fluid, and none of any of the hardware that is plastic or goes into plastic, had any kind of threadlocker on it from the factory.

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