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  1. #1
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    AK'S U.D.R. Bash, Teardown, Upgrade, Race Ready Build.

    So here is a pic of what I have:


    The shocks and rebound shock oil is way to thin, so I put 80wt in the rebound and 60wt in the shock. After 8runs I decided to change it and here's what it looked like after those 8runs:


    Gave the driver's some bling,

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  2. #2
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I have ordered basically everything you can to replace/upgrade
    For this UDR, just have to wait on it coming from across the high seas. Here's what i have so far:
    Modified these,


    Savox 1230SG
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  3. #3
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    New lights

    Changed the fans


    Look real close and you can see the orange fan blades

    Painted these

    And the batteries

    MIP drive cup

    A hook and two attachment with chains, looks.


    47t pinion 31t spur
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  4. #4
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    The servo is a Savox 1230SG
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  5. #5
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Here is the tow hooks

    I also have 2 of these:

    Also in the 2s version X2, I also ordered a 4s 9000mah as well from Maxx Amps.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrimmel View Post
    Here is the tow hooks

    I also have 2 of these:

    Also in the 2s version X2, I also ordered a 4s 9000mah as well from Maxx Amps.
    How does those batteries perform? What's the difference between, say 50c vs the 150c. I'm relatively new at this so I'm not familiar with batteries

  7. #7
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    U.D.R. IN FULL MOD MODE
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  8. #8
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpensiveHobbie View Post
    How does those batteries perform? What's the difference between, say 50c vs the 150c. I'm relatively new at this so I'm not familiar with batteries
    The higher the C rating, the higher the discharge rate of the battery=more power, if I'm not mistaken.
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  9. #9
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So after the bash session yesterday I started to tear the tranny and the rear end for the new rear end
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  10. #10
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    As well as what I thought was a aluminum rear axle housing, is actually like a satin chrome, oh well still looks better than stock. Today's plans remove tranny and replace rear axle housing


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  11. #11
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    When I opened up the rear end housing yesterday there was probably a shot glass worth of water that came out, so its important to use a waterproof grease when sealing these up, I will post pics 2 show.
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    I know it will take some time, but is there any way you could post parts and part #s so someone like my self can do the same as what your doing?

  13. #13
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I ran out of udder butter lube while doing this

    And I topped it off with 100K and in the planetary gears I think that's it, was just 100K. I Ran one 3S 6500 through it and before I ran it when I tossed it on the ground to drive like normal it didn't roll a bit like it normally did, so after the above battery pack, about half through I touched the diff housing and it was hot, rear drive shaft was pretty warm to the touch, stopped for couple of minutes ran the rest of the pack and that rear drive shaft was blazing hot and so was the tranny I believe, I know the motor was very hot. To remedy this I will clean out the planetary gear portion and put 50k and see if that dont cool things down.
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  14. #14
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    It does look nice with that satin chrome finish on it, limiting straps work well.


    IF ANYONE KNOWS/HAS A VIDEO ON HOW TO REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION PLEASE LET ME KNOW, I've tried a few times
    with no success.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpensiveHobbie View Post
    How does those batteries perform? What's the difference between, say 50c vs the 150c. I'm relatively new at this so I'm not familiar with batteries
    How do those batteries push it? I use SMC 90C batteries, and they rip pretty good. Can't imagine what 150C does to it.

  16. #16
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I have a aluminum rear Diff coming tomorrow as well as 100mm limiting straps as the stock are 108mm and just a bit ro long. I am going to go bath since I changed the oils and see if it doesn't nose dive after every jump. I have many more parts coming in as well, will post as they show up.
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  17. #17
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrimmel View Post
    I have a aluminum rear Diff coming tomorrow as well as 100mm limiting straps as the stock are 108mm and just a bit to long. I am going to go bash it since I changed the oils and see if it doesn't nose dive after every jump. I have many more parts coming in as well, will post as they show up.
    Since changing the oil it still nose dived, not as bad, so I compressed the shock springs in the back 1st, then had to do the same to the front, about 1inch on all 4.
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  18. #18
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I threw it away, but I did break a lower control arm yesterday and replaced it, 4s into a mud packed slide hit it square and that broke, other than that more to come. I will lube the front diff with UDDER BUTTER after a quick bash.
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  19. #19
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    The 4 screws/flatheads on the lower body by the doors, 2 on each side seem to be a weak point-first place my body tore

    And the repair

    I would put gorilla glue Tape around the back of the body to prevent tears, JMO,,,,,,,, the other body tear no repair yet
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  20. #20
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    For the front diff and tranny while I'm here might as well because dang this is difficult, very different from a Summit
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  21. #21
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So here are the pics with the front diff no lube 4th one down after opening it up, as the pictures show the rest




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  22. #22
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Driver's side is done, going to do passengers side real quick before I lube the front diff
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  23. #23
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quick pic of the servo Savox1230SG
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  24. #24
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I was going to tackle the tranny at the same time, but I have all new driveshafts coming and the both together is alot, sound the front tires both needed some super glue in various spots.

    Next will be putting the painted body panels back on, both it, wait for more upgrades.
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  25. #25
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrimmel View Post
    I was going to tackle the tranny at the same time, but I have all new aluminum center driveshaft and rear coming in. Doing the both together is alot, found the front tires both needed some super glue in various spots as well, less than a week old.

    Next will be putting the painted body panels back on, both it, wait for more upgrades.
    Had to change some words in the above post
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  26. #26
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    New body panels
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  27. #27
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Basically go against what you know and cut a hole at one point on your wheel and then another 180degrees from that.

    So after the front diff lube test drive that went well although while removing the diff I noticed the drive shaft going into the tranny from the rear diff, when the rear end compress that drive shaft where it enters the tranny it squeaks and barely comes back out on it's own and makes the truck perform badly in the rear from this. I'm guessing with the aluminum rear end coming tomorrow I'll brake down the tranny as well.
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  28. #28
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    On a side note I saw this video that had this piece of paper in it

    Had i not looked at it and throw it away like most paper that comes with Cool toys
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  29. #29
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Internet was down yesterday, and cell phone tower. So my alumumin rear end and my 100mm limiting straps didn't come in so instead I went and did this
    http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/u...325_153801.jpg
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  30. #30
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    My limiting straps came in
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  31. #31
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    This is what the rear diff looked like when I opened it up for the first time

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  32. #32
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Makes it handle really well 4s seems to be the sweet spot so far, I have a 4s 9000mah 100C from maxx Amps for duration and power, mainly at the track, shows up thursday, as opposed to the two 2s 6500mah 150c I have from them as well, never had one with such a high mah curious to see that it gets the LONG run times. My 3s 6500 150c are ROAR approved as well so I can't fit them both together for 6s. The last battery I'm buying for this is a 6s 8000mah 150c, just for the wow factor it will provide when u have it out or your buddies don't believe u on how fast it is.
    Last edited by akrimmel; 03-26-2019 at 07:40 PM.
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  33. #33
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Today I tore down the rear diff again, took out the 100K fluid
    because of the high temps and switched it to 50K, the temps were way down, but were still in the 140's, so tomorrow I will take apart the rear diff and take out the 50K fluid and just use UDDER BUTTER like I did in the front diff as I have 2tubes of the butter coming in. Front diff has the butter in it and has been fine, my fault for continuing the project without having more, but I have been experimenting this whole time so I know what it can and can't handle, even though we have the same trucks fluid is one of those things that there are so many variables as opposed to just parts that either work or they'rebroke.
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  34. #34
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I was able to figure out how the transmission comes out, I see that you can run HV servos at 7.4v, is there a setting to change for this or is it automatically?
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  35. #35
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    There will be more once FedEx shows up with my new Maxx Amps lipo's.
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  36. #36
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Here is the transmission case showing a slight coating of lube.

    Then the actual transmission very little lube as well, cover and transmission got a nice dose of udder butter, no pic for that.
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  37. #37
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    Shots of the new parts



    Took the rearend apart again cleaned out the 50K, coated it all with udder butter, since i had plenty this time, rearend turns as smooth as butter now. Will check on temps tomorrow, rained after I finished installing everything.
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  38. #38
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Today was a good day for upgrade parts.
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  39. #39
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    U.D.R. IN FULL MOD MODE
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  40. #40
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    This arrived today,

    Difference between the stock and aftermarket end bell.

    Another shot comparing the two.

    End bell installed

    Fan and cover

    Installed and fits

    Everything back together
    Last edited by akrimmel; 03-30-2019 at 02:37 PM.
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