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  1. #121
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I hope to at least tackle the front diff today to help lessen me being pi$$ed off at this truck, and get it upright to drive again.

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  2. #122
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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  3. #123
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Tore the frontend off today cleaned out the front differential and noticed one of these bearings had some drag in it so I went and bought them to replace both on front differential and there are some in the transmission that I'm sure need replacing as the transmission is the source of the excess heat I think. So now I have to open the transmission up and check the bearings in there, as after the front differential job was just completed I applied 3S power for close to 30secs and the transmission got hot at both driveshafts front and rear just enough to stop before it burned to the touch.

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  4. #124
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    The dog bones are rubbing here where they go into the drive cups and what I believe is preventing the front right side not to turn all the way under power due to this rubbing,,, anyone else have this issue, it wasn't like this before, but I dont know what
    upgrade/s did this see below.

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  5. #125
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I have taken out the transmission and the big bearings like in the front differential seen to move fine, just as good as a new one out of the package as well. So I guess regardless I'm still going to take apart the rear and look at the planetary bearings as well, but I guess I'll do the same to the transmission planetary gears and look while its apart. If I'm not mistaken the heat issue came around the same time I replaced the front stock driveshaft over to the gpm hardened steel. Doing to many upgrades/replacement and not testing is where I fu&$ed up at, as u can't pinpoint it like earlier in the beginning. I may have to degrade some components back to stock if after redoing the whole drivetrain bearing checks and nothing is found, getting frustrated.

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  6. #126
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrimmel View Post
    The dog bones are rubbing here where they go into the drive cups and what I believe is preventing the front right side not to turn all the way under power due to this rubbing,,, anyone else have this issue, it wasn't like this before, but I dont know what
    upgrade/s did this see below.

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    All my pics are mostly upside down as I show parts directly after installing. When the wheels are on and body and batteries its doesn't sit on the drive cups as in the picture, most likely from jumping and what not as it has been put through it paces in the beginning. Not sure when it exactly started like everything.
    It could be from one of my many upgrades untested, mistake on my end.
    Last edited by akrimmel; 05-01-2019 at 03:05 PM.
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  7. #127
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Took apart the transmission and the planetary gears as well all bearings were fine. So lubed it up a little put the case back on and applied power. After about 40 secs it started to get very warm to the touch. SO I BELIEVE THE PROBLEM IS THE SPUR GEAR CHANGE I DID FROM 51TSPUR RO A 47TSPUR, ever since then is when I believe this heat crap started. I took the transmission apart again and went back to the stock 51t spur. I will put all the transmission hardware back in tomorrow and apply power, and during this I didn't have the center driveshaft hooked up so I know its not in the rear planetary gears, but I will take that apart again and relube it after I get the transmission heat issues resolved, fingers crossed it works tomorrow.

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  8. #128
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    All the transmission lube was black from getting over 140f, it used to be red. Same in front gearbox so I am sure the rear planetary needs to be done as well to maintain the temps.

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  9. #129
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I applied power today without the rear driveshaft hooked up and ran it upside down full throttle for 30-40 secs and no heat like before. Maybe 47t spur & 31t pinion down work with my setup, not sure. Looked at the rear planetary gears and all were fine. So everything is hooked up for a test run tomorrow, more info hopefully good.
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  10. #130
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    I just discovered that a failed/seized bearing in the rear axle was causing excessive heat. I have circled the culprit bearing in the image.
    I purchased a complete bearing kit so im going to do a full rebuild.



  11. #131
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    That same bearing number is what I replaced on the transmission output shaft. Was a little crunchy when you turned it by hand. My heat issues are in the transmission, the output shaft takes the burnt end of the heat. Have ordered a new output shaft as well with x-ring.

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  12. #132
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    These came yesterday as the stock dogbones are junk. They would be issue as well due to the rubbing as I showed in a earlier pics-below. I want to run the UDR as it's been upside down for about 3weeks trying to get the heat issue resolved. Not sure what i will do test run or install new splines shaft instead of stock dogbones.

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  13. #133
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I didn't install the splined drive axles, and the heat came back on one 3s lipo. It has to be the gpm front drive shaft that us causing the heat-ut can only be that as I have changed or uninstalled parts to figure this out. So I ordered the Hot Racing equivalent of the gpm part. So will take apart again until the parts show up.

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  14. #134
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    This week I will replace the front CV splined drive shafts, rear transmission output shaft and the front driveshaft, will post pics once everything is uninstalled and ready to go with the new parts.

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  15. #135
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Here is the CV splined drive shafts out of the package and ready to go in.

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  16. #136
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So anticipating some parts arriving early, yesterday I took off the front end differential and drive cups for those CV splines. Also took apart transmission and removed the front GPM driveshaft and replacing it with this Hot Racing upgrade.

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  17. #137
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I had the REPLACEMENT transmission output shaft arrive today as well. I should be able to get these parts installed today and finally find out what was causing the heat issues, like before it can only be hopefully the front driveshaft, i dont believe I ever mentioned that once I installed that gpm front driveshaft it was in a group with several other upgrades before realistically ever testing them on the road. Which lead to me part guessing on which one it could be and this is the last one.

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  18. #138
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    The current output shaft has been exposed to high heat and doesn't move in and out Like it did out the box which transfers heat to the rear output driveshaft. That's why it's being replaced. The battery hold down tray broke from me air dropping it like I normally due testing the Suspension, but it was open and it hit the tile floor first and broke it in half. And I stripped a screw on the hold down for the battery tray itself and had to damage the old one to remove the stripped screw which is ok as it is sold as a package with everything in it, I'll have pics by end of week when it comes as can't go drive it until then, but I still can apply power after a few parts go in today, pics to comem

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  19. #139
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I applied power last night and the new front driveshaft upgrade took care of the heat in the front of the transmission, but I was still getting heat on the new rear transmission output shaft to the rear driveshaft. I replaced the 2 bearings on the output shaft, but didn't apply power as it was late. If I still get heat I will replace the gpm rear driveshaft with a stock rear driveshaft. So I knocked out half of the heat issues more once I get back home.

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  20. #140
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    I haven't visited the UDR section in a while, and seeing this I have to say "Wow, you must have spent as much money in upgrade parts as in the original vehicle!" Out of curiousity, do you drive your truck like you stole it on 6s? Bummer with the heat issues you are dealing with, and the complexity of trying to find its source(s). That said, when they start racing these at NASCAR events, I'll have you for my crew chief. How long (or should I say quickly) does it take you to have the complete teardown and re-assembly done, with your eyes closed? I would hope the community here would glean from you and a couple others in the UDR section for diagnosis/remedy/tuning issues with their trucks, as is done in other sub fourm sections. It is also nice to see this pic heavy thread for the "visual learners".

  21. #141
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    MAC FAB,
    thanks I haven't even been able to drain my 4s 9000mah, as I start with my 3s 6500mah and run each one ro get a feel for where I'm at bashing and unfortunately I've had wheel nuts come off, driveshafts twisted off, heat blah, blah, blah, my fault for not bringing tool box with me. Once I get it figured out i will buy a 6s 6000mah. I've easily doubled what I paid for it, but I knew that ahead time. My fault for adding upgrades and not testing individually like I should have. I wanted to do a thread like everyone could gain knowledge and find out the does and don'ts. I have a special hydro dipped new body just waiting to go on and blow everyone's mind when they see it, but not until I'm **** sure the heat is gone. More to come as always.


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  22. #142
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I FIXED THE HEAT ISSUE IT WAS THE GPM REAR DRIVESHAFT.
    I swapped it out with a factory driveshaft and the heat went away, I guess the GPM was to heavy and it wouldn't allow it to move the transmission rear out shaft correctly and would heat up, so using different front and rear driveshafts Hot Racing front and factor rear, no more heat as of now. I didn't take any pics of the front driveshaft while installing too focused on solving this. Future pics I'll have I'm sure. Not able to drive as had this issue I noticed couple weeks ago but couldn't fix because of heat issues. On the front left the brake caliper is rubbing the wheel hub and taking off the finish, this setup is gpm as well, have shown pics of the setup in the thread. I have to drill a screw out holding this of course the allen holding it in stripped, seized up from heat on the caliper rubbing the wheel hub. Have to get that resolved, may go back to a factory caliper and just color it green. Until the next time. So still no driving yet.

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    Last edited by akrimmel; 05-09-2019 at 05:46 PM.
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  23. #143
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    So is it safe to say GMP products aren't that great? Kinda the same situation for the 4-Tec stuff they make.

  24. #144
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I think each situation is different, as u made the mistakes of adding parts and not testing on road and having multiple issues at once. Most is good, but not all


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  25. #145
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Drilled out stripped Allen, put stock calipers back on and still wheel hub rubbing on calipers. Will put stock wheel hubs back on and then post results.

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  26. #146
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Put stock wheel hubs back on and they sat right in the center of the calipers without rubbing. So I buttoned it all back up and went outside with it and only got through 1/2 battery pack as the front left wheel would come to a grinding halt while all others continued to turn, so i will replace all aftermarket steering parts with the stock parts and try this again, as the motor was very warm due to this steering issue, sucks u work hard a f on this and something else goes. Been boring on my end but not sure what else to do. Will repost once stock parts
    are back on.

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  27. #147
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I also have to do some body work on the stock body that came with it as well before I have a unveiling of the new one. Yeah like that'll happen.

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  28. #148
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I am back to stock as far as the pic shows with still some gpm hooked up. So if the steering locks up I will change the tie rods next, will apply power tomorrow as is now first.

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  29. #149
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I'll be able to test with what I have done as far as changing parts back to stock again until i figure out what is causing the front wheels to lock up while turning under power, here in a few hours when I get home. If it still does it under power again today I will change out the steering servo assembly next, hopefully not. Will post with results.

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  30. #150
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Going back to stock, still had one of the front wheels lock up under power when extended out to the left or the right. So I will change out tomorrow and post again.

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  31. #151
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    It still did it when I just changed out steering links as well.

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  32. #152
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    Quick couple of questions for ya. Reason being I'm starting a UDR sized buggy build and it looks like UDR parts may be my treasure trove, of which you seem to be the most familiar with what is the pretty/good/bad/ugly. 1) What is the width between the posts on the bellcranks? 2) Stock shocks- good or are the aftermarket ones better? 3) What is the o.d. of the shocks with and without springs? 4) Do you think that many of the aftermarket parts are actually inferior in performance to the plastic OEM stuff at the end of the day??? So depressing to see all that tastey $$$ eye candy that doesn't seem to be working for you.

  33. #153
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    #1 not sure of bellcrank
    #2 aftermarket for sure
    #3 I believe 2inches
    #4 yes aftermarket over stock for the most part as every vehicle has aftermarket parts that have to be modified in some way or another. Or in other cases the stock works better over aftermarket as if not necessarily abused, but babied around let's say and stock holds up fine, case by case.

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  34. #154
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I went back to stock besides the servo arm as I remember the stock servo arm bending under torque or full extensions. Hopefully get it put back together tomorrow and go from there.
    This should determine if the aftermarket steering parts aka servo saver and bellcrank as I had to shave my parts earlier in the thread.

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  35. #155
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    HEY MAC FAB

    #1 whatever 3 tics under 2inch mark.

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  36. #156
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Its reconnected just have to mount it to the frame and put in some braces and I'll be set again for a test under power tomorrow.

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  37. #157
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Applied power after stock steering parts were hooked up and one wheel would still stop turning either left or right and steering would slowly lock out again. So I thought it had to be the reciever that was bad in that channel. I went up to the LHS and showed them what it does and they agreed to swap out receivers as my transmitter/radio hasn't been dropped or abused.
    Below is the pic if what steering would slowly do by itself.

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  38. #158
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I bought a new receiver, installed it and the locking out finally stopped.
    My problem now is down to one thing, if I compress the front end it wont lock out when turned left or right, but when its NOT compressed upside down it will lock out when turned left or right under power.

    So have I stripped gears in the front gearbox to allow this to happen. Haven't drove it yet because I believe it will lock out when fully extended left or right. JUST down to this last problem, have eliminated so many.

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  39. #159
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    LHS seems to think its something in the front gearbox, might as well take it apart one more time before I drive it and see if there is metal shavings in there. Not sure why it grinds to a halt with no load and just a slight tick with load under it while turning. Will post internals of gearbox tomorrow.

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  40. #160
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I broke it back down as I know all to well how to do it to well today.

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