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  1. #161
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Everything appears to be fine hear and all the bearings are in good working order. So before I open this up and look inside here.

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  2. #162
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    While holding it like this, should I be able to independently turn these in opposite directions because I am able to so if this is wrong let me know.
    I will open this up tomorrow for real and look inside as I haven't found any shavings or blown bearings.

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  3. #163
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Everything was normal on the inside when I opened it up, no shavings anywhere. I did reseat everything again to check.

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  4. #164
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Once I put everything back together again I felt it lock in when the top went back on versus the last time and once it was tight I couldn't spin the axles in opposite directions like before I took it apart, let's hope that's all it was. No more today.

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  5. #165
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So it's back together and the front end
    feels way more solid, I very well may have not put that front planetary gear back right and its had a trickle effect this whole time I think. I'm gonna drive it tomorrow will post.

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  6. #166
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    The front shocks are to stiff because I hooked everything back up and it locked out again turning all the way to the left or right, but with just some slight compression the front end swings back and forth like butter, and I tried it with stock steering tie rods and
    the gpm with same results, so I know it's not all gpm parts causing things.

    Anyways by changing the shock oil in the front from
    Rebound 80wt to 40wt
    Shock 60wt to 20wt
    This should keep the constant soft compression needed with this setup to let the steering swing properly, more.

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  7. #167
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I do remember the stock oils being thin, can anyone tell me what the factory weights are?

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  8. #168
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Had to wait until the LHS opened up about a hour ago.

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  9. #169
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Once I put 40wt in the rebound and 20wt in the shock I'll post again.

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  10. #170
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Took a few days off, so back at it again and I tell you either the front end shocks take more of a beating or it could have been my setup. My point the oil was absolutely wasted, meaning the shocks would fully compress and not come back with any speed whatsoever, less than two hands worth of runs check the thread, driver side is complete. Will post with pics of passengers side shocks while changing.

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  11. #171
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I am impressed with the way the driver side reacts with the wheel on, hopefully this thinner oil on the front will let the Suspension up front react faster to not let the grinding of the wheel as i stated above doesn't happen under compression only when there's not enough weight let's say. This should be closer back to factory now I know it was this I hope as I have found under multiple benche tests.

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  12. #172
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Before rebound and after as related above post.

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  13. #173
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Before shock and after shock, haha.

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  14. #174
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    No I dont have the spring adjustment that tight just out of the way for what I'm doing.

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  15. #175
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Here is the oil from the front four, some dirtier than others.

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  16. #176
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Test drive tomorrow, hella wet around here had tornadoes in the immediate area yesterday. The whole point of me doing this is to have a race ready build as stated in the title. Almost there once I get it tuned I will put the light kit
    on the new body I have yet to reveal until the BS gets squared away. Until then.

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  17. #177
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    I just did all eight shocks in my UDR, oil was pretty grubby and discolored. Also surprised to see that the front shocks, the secondaries in particular had leaked out more than the others. Would have thought the rears would have leaked out more.

  18. #178
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spanner76 View Post
    I just did all eight shocks in my UDR, oil was pretty grubby and discolored. Also surprised to see that the front shocks, the secondaries in particular had leaked out more than the others. Would have thought the rears would have leaked out more.
    So I see it wasn't just me then, good to know.
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  19. #179
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=akrimmel;6498609]Once I put 40wt in the rebound and 20wt in the shock I'll post again.

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    Did you put bypass pistons in both shocks or did they come that way? Otherwise its just a combination of weights, whatever that averages out to, with 50/50 valving. What is the end result that you are looking for with the shock's tuning? My 10 lb. scratch built buggy has a best of ~40 mph, Baja Rey sized, with slow coompression fast rebound out back and 50/50 up front. Is that the same for your UDR? Finally, what rubber item in the shock is getting eaten up by the oil, causing the contaminated oil? Surely dirt isn't getting in there, or is it??????

    Edit before posting for no re-typing.... What is your racing environment, sc track or desert/baja style? Being in So Cal, I am biased to the desert/baja option. Somewhat different shock setups for the two, for my stuff anyhow.

  20. #180
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    MAC FAB

    Bypass as you say came stock with the udr, and the environment here in the midwest is Short Course for sure. I know there is a kit to remedy this called Shock Absorber Under Cover Protector, so I guess the next time I decide to change the shock oil i will buy it ahead of time.


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  21. #181
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    When I bashed out the box I didn't take pics of the track as it doesn't get maintained year round, even though it holds national events in a public park, kinda cool. Once I'm race ready I'll take plenty track pics as it's up and going although we've had more rain than Normal into may than usual so I'm sure it's been pointless to race/bash there as its more a SC track like I said.

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  22. #182
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    So I had more tornadoes roll through the immediate area again this morning so the only way to bash is speed runs and going in and out of swamps, so anything flat is water covered. I'll try to do my tests runs tomorrow provided I can go a day here with out tornadoes w t f

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  23. #183
    RC Champion akrimmel's Avatar
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    I do have a set of these for said swampy environment, but I feel I should break it back it in as I broke it with the stock tires first, because trust me I have been wanting to try these for months.

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  24. #184
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Be safe with the weather. As for bypasses, its not just being a second shock on the truck, but its the internals of the shock, changing the rate of fluid transfer through the holes in the pistons, unlike a standard shock's valving- we have a disc with holes in it and the oil is forced through, same on compression as rebound, hence 50/50 valving. Bypass for r/c puts flappers over some of the holes, causing resistance for one direction or the other, depending on which direction you want to slow or speed up- not 50/50 anymore. Another brand that does scale stuff has floating pistons to try to do the same thing. MIP makes flappers as well. Easy DIY item. You run one of these options??? If not, dialing shocks could prove to quite interesting, being that you aren't sitting in the driver's seat to give the suspension tuner any honest feedback on how it handles or not. Slo mo video is great for tuning, more often than not what you think its doing and what you watch it do are two different things.

  25. #185
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Got the bugs worked out, running like a champ?

  26. #186
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    thank you very much

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