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  1. #1
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    heat issues.......

    ok, guys I need some guidance

    my son has a slash 4x4 with new motor, and ecm (stock brushless traxxas setup). we have mostly ran it in snow with paddle tires, and now that spring time is here I think we are going to have issues. It did get warm but not hot when it was cold out and I figured I would get gearing nailed down once in normal operating temperatures (summer). we are now driving in flat grass (it has not started to perk up yet) and I pulled some temps. I got 130 ish on the motor can (already have heat sink with paste) and 170 on the esc.

    it is only upper 40's now, and not working it hard like we will in sand later, and I want to get ahead of this problem before it gets bigger, and cant be fixed when on vacations at the dunes. he has 13 pinion, and 54 spur gear in it 32 pitch, steel drive shafts and stock tire size. we wernt doing any speed runs, just zipping around the yard, messing around. I know sand with paddle tires will really work it more than what we are doing now

    let me know what you think would be a wise route.........

    my other sons 2x4 slash with 2.8's on it was doing the same stuff and he has same motor 14 pinion 86 spur, and he had 60 on the motor, and 70 on esc. (motor also with heat sink and paste)

    needless to say the big temp difference between the 2 also Is quite the contrast.......

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    ps. running on 2s lipo

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    I would suggest a fan for both the esc and motor,you can get the traxxas fan for the esc and the dual fan/heat sync combo from integy for the motor,it even comes in different colors


    https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...8#.XJmObJhKiUk



    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/3340
    Last edited by GhostOfOnyx; 03-25-2019 at 09:30 PM.
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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I personally put a heatsink with fans on all of my trucks. The fans really help to cool things off quickly! It's just cheap insurance that has served me well for many years
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    thanks guys for your replies

    I wondered if this was a common problem with a 4x4 or if this was something out of the ordinary.
    would one fan hook up to that external wire that is on the esc, or would I plug the fans into the receiver box, also would I still use heat paste with a heat sink\fan set up, it looks like the heat sinks with fans are slotted even where it would connect to the motor can.

    what is a ball park on how much these will help cool, Im hoping this will fix the problem, we will see......

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    thanks guys for your replies

    I wondered if this was a common problem with a 4x4 or if this was something out of the ordinary.
    would one fan hook up to that external wire that is on the esc, or would I plug the fans into the receiver box, also would I still use heat paste with a heat sink\fan set up, it looks like the heat sinks with fans are slotted even where it would connect to the motor can.

    what is a ball park on how much these will help cool, Im hoping this will fix the problem, we will see......
    The fan for the esc you prug into the side of the esc. The motor fan or fans you plug into a spare channel on the receiver. No you don't need paste. The integy or hot racing heatsink with fans work great. I have two integy heatsinks with fans for both my p4des and two hot racing heatsinks with fans for both my sl4shes. I. Run crazy gearing. My one p4de i run 17 t pinion and 40t spur with a CC mamba monster x esc and 2650kv motor. My other p4de and sl4shes are ran with similar highish gearing for speed runs/bashing.
    "Theres not bad people, just bad choices."

  7. #7
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    170F on the esc? How did it stay running? Pretty sure my vlx-3s shuts down when it gets up to 155 or so. You sure your reading that right?

    IME, motor fans drop temps about 30F give or take a few degrees. What they really help with is when the chassis isn't that open and you don't get much air flow, it keeps the air around the motor fresh and also if it has a sink to it, it wicks away and disperses some of the heat.

    On my 1/8th that I have a heat sink on (non-traxxas), I have a cheap 40mm fan/heat sink without any thermal paste and my motor temps went from 170F on a 75F day to 135F.

    I forget how much the fan helped on my vxl-3s as I almost have always had it. When I first got it, I had it geared too tall and it would thermal on me after about 15 minutes of bashing in grass. So, I geared down a bit and now it does ok for multiple packs.

    In general, anything over 190F on the motor tends to hurt the magnets permanently. If your at 150F, your fairly safe. That 170F on the esc is odd to me though.
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    when I measured the esc, I did it on the fins, perhaps I should have hit the blue casing. ya I thought it would hit the thermal wall too. we did make up some makeshift mud flaps on the bottom inside of the body with duct tape to help keep the slush and snow out, perhaps I need to remove those, although they are not air tight by any means, that 4x4 slings some serious debris on the internals

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    that 4x4 slings some serious debris on the internals
    Oh yes it does,i once flung a stick 5 meters.For that i would suggest the rpm rear bumper and mud flaps and a chassis cover

    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/bu...-bumper-black/

    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/bu...traxxas-slash/

    https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-LC.../dp/B00XF8BUMQ

    https://www.amazon.com/Raidenracing-...Q90PHE1GQQAK97

    The rpm parts work and give it a cool scale look

    Onyx
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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    when I measured the esc, I did it on the fins, perhaps I should have hit the blue casing. ya I thought it would hit the thermal wall too. we did make up some makeshift mud flaps on the bottom inside of the body with duct tape to help keep the slush and snow out, perhaps I need to remove those, although they are not air tight by any means, that 4x4 slings some serious debris on the internals
    This is one of the main reasons I started using an E-Maxx body in an open wheel style setup. Chassis is like a bucket for debris and it starts to get heavy sometimes.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    thanks guys for your replies

    I wondered if this was a common problem with a 4x4 or if this was something out of the ordinary.
    would one fan hook up to that external wire that is on the esc, or would I plug the fans into the receiver box, also would I still use heat paste with a heat sink\fan set up, it looks like the heat sinks with fans are slotted even where it would connect to the motor can.

    what is a ball park on how much these will help cool, Im hoping this will fix the problem, we will see......
    In my newest Ultimate edition I have the older version of the Velineon motor system. I run it exclusively on 3s. I have never had any problems with it getting and staying hot. I use Loctite to bond the heatsink to the motor. I have the Velineon esc fan from Traxxas but put in a Yeah Racing fan in the housing. It cools better than the stock fan. On the motor I have an integy heatsink with the fan sucking the air and it works amazingly well
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  12. #12
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    when I measured the esc, I did it on the fins, perhaps I should have hit the blue casing. ya I thought it would hit the thermal wall too. we did make up some makeshift mud flaps on the bottom inside of the body with duct tape to help keep the slush and snow out, perhaps I need to remove those, although they are not air tight by any means, that 4x4 slings some serious debris on the internals
    Chassis cover and fenderless body will help keep the crap out. My Mad Maxx basher



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  13. #13
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    Traxxas motor seized and it didn’t thermal shut off

    Hello, I was playing with my 3 month old slash ultimate for the first time at the beach, first battery I lost reverse but It came back, second battery charge (traxxas 5000m 3s) I turned the throttle down on the traxxas app to 43% went up a few hills, it started to stutter and then it completely stopped, I hit the throttle 4 times to see if it would free up and it melted a wire off the esc terminal that goes into the receiver box(idk what it is I don’t want to mess the water proofing up) I take the motor apart and see string like stuff all over the inside of the can, I read the thread and someone mentioned the glue coming off the magnet inside the motor, but I also saw someone say something about the car having a thermal shut off and was wondering why it didn’t shut it off (the motor and esc were to hot to touch and I burned myself)

  14. #14
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyatt’s View Post
    Hello, I was playing with my 3 month old slash ultimate for the first time at the beach, first battery I lost reverse but It came back, second battery charge (traxxas 5000m 3s) I turned the throttle down on the traxxas app to 43% went up a few hills, it started to stutter and then it completely stopped, I hit the throttle 4 times to see if it would free up and it melted a wire off the esc terminal that goes into the receiver box(idk what it is I don’t want to mess the water proofing up) I take the motor apart and see string like stuff all over the inside of the can, I read the thread and someone mentioned the glue coming off the magnet inside the motor, but I also saw someone say something about the car having a thermal shut off and was wondering why it didn’t shut it off (the motor and esc were to hot to touch and I burned myself)
    Too hot to touch is vague but thermal shutdown comes from esc temps(not motor) but you can monitor motor temps on the Ultimate through the app. Beach running(sand) is hard on everything and makes the motor work for sure. The stock set-up struggles with 3s on hard surfaces much less sand. Good luck getting it fixed up!
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
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  15. #15
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Anyone know what temp the vxl-3s goes into step 1 thermal protection where it cuts you to 50%?
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    so is the thinking that a 4x4 set up is too much for the stock vxl ? would a lower kv rated set up be wiser, like a hobbywing or grool? I would hate having to worry that my fans working is the only deciding factor on if the car is able to be used.

    thanks for the replies, and advise

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    A lower kv larger can motor would be the way to go. Have you tried going down a tooth or 2 on the pinion? Could help the temp. Goolrc motors are fine, but their escs aren't the greatest, and I wouldn't run one in a 4x4.

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  18. #18
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    so is the thinking that a 4x4 set up is too much for the stock vxl ? would a lower kv rated set up be wiser, like a hobbywing or grool? I would hate having to worry that my fans working is the only deciding factor on if the car is able to be used.

    thanks for the replies, and advise
    I found that stock electronics were adequate with my stampede when I was on 2S. I could gear to 13/52 and have temps that were livable, but the speed wasn't quite enough to clear some of the main jumps at my skate park. For tooling around and jumping random stuff, 13/54 was fine. Probably topped out in mid 30's. With 14/54 and the castle 3800 system I ran 41mph, but ended up with 13/52 because it also ran a bit warmer than I wanted.

    I need to check the speed I have now... it's bugging me that I don't know just for comparison. Running the hobbywing max10 sct/3200kv on 3S with I think 13/54. It's a handful now. I also don't know how it's going to do when it warms up out. I've only run it when it's been 35-50F outside. Motor at 110F and the esc at 98F. Both with fans.
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  19. #19
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    ok, I just put in a fan for the motor, and esc. I also dropped the pinion down to 11. a question with the fans, do you guys have any sort of screen, or filter on them to keep grass out?

    also im looking to purchase a couple of batteries, I have read a lot of suggestions for SMC. 5000mah 7.4 50c. would that be a good way to go? just backyard bashing

  20. #20
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I run the SMC 7200/7400 hard case ones in my stampede. I think the slash can use the longer packs, but the 7400's should fit just fine as well.

    Have you tried hitting boiling water with your temp gun to see if it comes in at 212F or close? Still surprised you hit 170F on the esc.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    ok, I just put in a fan for the motor, and esc. I also dropped the pinion down to 11. a question with the fans, do you guys have any sort of screen, or filter on them to keep grass out?

    also im looking to purchase a couple of batteries, I have read a lot of suggestions for SMC. 5000mah 7.4 50c. would that be a good way to go? just backyard bashing
    Refer to my second post,the amazon links are for the hot racing mesh body covers
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  22. #22
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GhostOfOnyx View Post
    Refer to my second post,the amazon links are for the hot racing mesh body covers
    You ever run those? Curious how well the air flows through them. I know some of those have such a tight mesh that water beads up on them, so something to use in the winter to keep from having snow get packed in the chassis, but it's also cold in the winter.

    For me, I don't really put anything over the fans, but I don't run in sand. I do get bits of grass in there on occasion and I pick it out with needle nose or remove the fan to pick it out.
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    looking for a body mesh for a 2x4 for my other sons slash still has standard body height, not lcg. would a cover for a 4x4 hcg work on a 2x4?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    You ever run those? Curious how well the air flows through them. I know some of those have such a tight mesh that water beads up on them, so something to use in the winter to keep from having snow get packed in the chassis, but it's also cold in the winter.

    For me, I don't really put anything over the fans, but I don't run in sand. I do get bits of grass in there on occasion and I pick it out with needle nose or remove the fan to pick it out.
    Though I've never run one personally, I've heard great things about them, also if I can completely cover my chassis with shrink wrap and the motor/ESC stay cool, I think the mesh would ventilate well. (DIY chassis cover for snow or water, you heard it here first folks)

    Disclaimer: the above listed hack may not work well for your rig and I will not be held responsible for any damage. You've been warned

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  26. #26
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    you guys rock! my son has a question, and I know enough not to pretend to know, but I know who does........you guys come through again.

    hoping we are getting all prepared for silver lake sand dunes.

  27. #27
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    we survived the sand dunes with minimal issues. but my sons slash 4x4 was hitting 140 in less than 1/2 through a 2s lipo, even avoiding hills and full tilt runs. I know that is still in the "safe zone" but I was playing it cautious. temp outside was about 65, and just paddles on the rear. 11 tooth pinion, fans on esc, and motor, and body mesh to keep the grit out (for the most part) and stock tire size. we are on a LCG with big bore shocks adjusted so it has max ground clearance for the setup, so there is a fair amount of air gap between body and frame.

    questions I see some people cut additional holes in shell, does this help a lot, if so does it really drop structure for bashing?

    -could the steel front and rear drive shafts be adding that much more weight/drag to where I should replace with stock, previous guy smoked the motor on 3s, but I think he had upgraded driveshaft's due to upgraded power. would heavy duty plastic be ok with 2s?

    -mostly used in back yard bashing, but in thick grass it gets just as hot, even quicker, and we haven't even hit summer temps yet.

    -other options I should be thinking about, or drop to a lower kv esc and motor? I know a lot of guys love CC, but is there decant other brand for less money (grool, hobby wing)?

    if so what KV range should I be looking at?

    as always thanks guys.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    we survived the sand dunes with minimal issues. but my sons slash 4x4 was hitting 140 in less than 1/2 through a 2s lipo, even avoiding hills and full tilt runs. I know that is still in the "safe zone" but I was playing it cautious. temp outside was about 65, and just paddles on the rear. 11 tooth pinion, fans on esc, and motor, and body mesh to keep the grit out (for the most part) and stock tire size. we are on a LCG with big bore shocks adjusted so it has max ground clearance for the setup, so there is a fair amount of air gap between body and frame.

    questions I see some people cut additional holes in shell, does this help a lot, if so does it really drop structure for bashing?

    -could the steel front and rear drive shafts be adding that much more weight/drag to where I should replace with stock, previous guy smoked the motor on 3s, but I think he had upgraded driveshaft's due to upgraded power. would heavy duty plastic be ok with 2s?

    -mostly used in back yard bashing, but in thick grass it gets just as hot, even quicker, and we haven't even hit summer temps yet.

    -other options I should be thinking about, or drop to a lower kv esc and motor? I know a lot of guys love CC, but is there decant other brand for less money (grool, hobby wing)?

    if so what KV range should I be looking at?

    as always thanks guys.
    Glad to hear its working for you

    I've had my Sl4sh for about 6 months now, and i've only been running it on 2s and I only see very minimal twisting. Though, I mainly drive on-road so I might not be the guy to answer that question

    I'm going to try to upgrade to this esc and it might suit your fancy

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-E...gAAOSwHKVc0PM-

    I really hope you find what works for you

    Onyx
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    ok folks, I think im going to have to use my amazon gift cards on a motor/esc set up for my sons 4x4. I cant keep the heat in a range im happy with (refer to previous replies above for trucks set up)

    what would be a good quality for a hobby backyard basher, grass mostly. what KV range should I be looking for, and what would fit? we will use his current vxl for a back up for my son and daughter's.

    thanks guys

  30. #30
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    ok folks, I think im going to have to use my amazon gift cards on a motor/esc set up for my sons 4x4. I cant keep the heat in a range im happy with (refer to previous replies above for trucks set up)

    what would be a good quality for a hobby backyard basher, grass mostly. what KV range should I be looking for, and what would fit? we will use his current vxl for a back up for my son and daughter's.

    thanks guys
    I would look for a 120amp 2-4s ESC. It wouldn't hurt to go to a 150amp ESC, but that is where things start getting pricey. As far as motors go something in the 3670 size range. If you're going to stick with 2s I would recommend something in the 2300kv to 2800kv range. Lower kv will run cooler but be slower than a higher kv. You can gear up the lower kv motor to overcome that and generally speaking it still should run cooler. I've found the only thing that ever truly cures heat issues is going big. Unfortunately there is a fine line there. If you overdo it with the size of the motor you open pandora's box for the other upgrades needed to accommodate that motor. Stay in that range and it should run much cooler without blowing the rest of the truck apart. Some budget brands for motors are gool rc, hobbystar, Toro. ESCs, I think hobbystar and hobbywing both make a 120 amp ESC for under 90$. Just don't go super cheap with the ESC. I know castles are exspensive but to me it's worth it for the warranty and customer service. I only needed the warranty once and it was a smooth process that made me a customer for life.

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    if I were to go castle route for esc 120 amp is there a specific model that has been good to you guys? other question does it play well with other brand motors it I go to a 2800kv.

    to make sure the pair works I would look for the amp range from the exc and motor to match, and also the pole wire count correct?

  32. #32
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    if I were to go castle route for esc 120 amp is there a specific model that has been good to you guys? other question does it play well with other brand motors it I go to a 2800kv.

    to make sure the pair works I would look for the amp range from the exc and motor to match, and also the pole wire count correct?
    I would look at the mamba x. It's a 2-6s esc. Castle doesn't really give hard amp ratings, but it is over 120amps. As far as motors go any brushless 4 pole motor will work. Only thing you have to really look at is make sure the bullets from the motor to the ESC match up. You can change the bullets if need be, but they'll likely be plug and play.

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  33. #33
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Grab that Hobbywing that Onyx linked above. Good to 4s for a tick over $50...hard to beat. Grab a $10 program card to make easy tweaks. I've been running mine for a couple years now without issue. Have used it to power a few motors ranging from the stock Velenion to the current 1/8th scale 4074 2150kv with packs ranging from 2s to 4s. Solid esc with a good rep for a fair price. Good luck!!
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  34. #34
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    Grab that Hobbywing that Onyx linked above. Good to 4s for a tick over $50...hard to beat. Grab a $10 program card to make easy tweaks. I've been running mine for a couple years now without issue. Have used it to power a few motors ranging from the stock Velenion to the current 1/8th scale 4074 2150kv with packs ranging from 2s to 4s. Solid esc with a good rep for a fair price. Good luck!!
    I'm glad you had some experience with that ESC and could vouch it. Hobbywing makes so many different models it's hard to tell what's legit and what's not. I'll admit I'm a little tainted by hobbywing. I bought my first one this spring and its having issues. When I contacted hobbywing for support, they were so defensive and accusatory that I'll likely never buy another product from them. That is a fair price. I agree with you, hard to beat that value and you can vouch it's a quality product. No reason to spend an extra 90$ or so dollars.

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    thanks for the feed back, how about a motor option to pair with it, in 2800 kv range. just to put out there im not looking to try something and fail and point at anyone that makes suggestions, but by far you all have experience with different things. im just trying to learn from what you all have tried with success.

  36. #36
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    thanks for the feed back, how about a motor option to pair with it, in 2800 kv range. just to put out there im not looking to try something and fail and point at anyone that makes suggestions, but by far you all have experience with different things. im just trying to learn from what you all have tried with success.
    I've had good luck with hobbystar motors
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-36...aterproof.html
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-36...aterproof.html
    I personally prefer lower kv motors, if I were choosing a motor for myself I'd go with the 3674 in 2200kv. Since you plan on sticking with 2s you are better off running the higher kv like you said.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 07-06-2019 at 03:01 PM.

  37. #37
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I've had good luck with hobbystar motors
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-36...aterproof.html
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-36...aterproof.html
    I personally prefer lower kv motors, if I were choosing a motor for myself I'd go with the 3674 in 2200kv. Since you plan on sticking with 2s you are better off running the higher kv like you said.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Like these suggestions! I have a few motors for my Slash. One of my favorites is a Kershaw Designs 3674 2700kv(unfortunately no longer available). Paired with that HW SC8 on 3s is a blast....on 4s it's plain stupid fast. The original El Sob special was the Traxxas funny car 3670 2400kv(I have one of those as well). Leopard made some of those can size/kv motors as well.Those 3670 and 3674 can motors are a great fit in a Slash.
    Last edited by Dcuda69; 07-06-2019 at 10:27 PM.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  38. #38
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    update. I ended up getting a grool rc combo that I found on amazon I got a 2850 motor, 120A esc with built in fan and a program card for $77. I completely overlooked that it would have a bigger shaft size, but I got it all squared away. started with a 11 tooth pinion. it was still getting warmer than I was hoping. I put a heat sink on it, and I bet I could get 2 on it. we were running in thick grass (but not too tall 3") about the hardest stuff we run in. It is still smoking fast, his 4x4 was still beating my 2x4 with 19 tooth.(for now)

    I still have a heat sink fan that I can put on it, but I wanted to see how it would do to start with. thinking about opening up the front windshield to get more air flow in there. should I expect that to help much? if so how are you guys going about it?

    given it was a much hotter day than usual, but still trying to find a good balance.

    like always thanks again guys.

  39. #39
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    ok, me and my sons touched base after they ran it some more.

    we were getting 140's after a few straight runs and it was around 90 out today. after being disheartened I put one heat sink on it, and gave my boys the temp gun and not to go above 140 after we let it cool down. I went back to my chores

    talking with my son after supper he swears it did not get above 120. I think by the time I get a second heat sink on it we should be good!

    yes I do need to confirm the temps it was running after the heat sink. and yes I know 150 is a "safe range" but I would like to know its well below that so when its being driven without my supervision I don't have to worry about the motor getting smoked if my boys "forget" to check temps, or just are having too much fun to pay attention

  40. #40
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie-slashdad View Post
    ok, me and my sons touched base after they ran it some more.

    we were getting 140's after a few straight runs and it was around 90 out today. after being disheartened I put one heat sink on it, and gave my boys the temp gun and not to go above 140 after we let it cool down. I went back to my chores

    talking with my son after supper he swears it did not get above 120. I think by the time I get a second heat sink on it we should be good!

    yes I do need to confirm the temps it was running after the heat sink. and yes I know 150 is a "safe range" but I would like to know its well below that so when its being driven without my supervision I don't have to worry about the motor getting smoked if my boys "forget" to check temps, or just are having too much fun to pay attention
    This is just my honest opinion and experience, but when it's hot out like this, it is kind of difficult to keep even the coolest running systems bulletproof. I think you are on the right track. Those are some extremely cool temps for the weather outside. With that being said depending on driving style the temps can sky rocket rather quickly. I'll share just one of my experiences with you. In my erevo 2.0 I was getting the stock motor up to 240f. I gradually went down in KV on different motors until I was all the way down to a 1550kv motor before I got my temps in check. Running normal I was in the 150-165 range. If I was ripping it pretty good I could get it up to the 180s. If I went full out through a full set of 4500mah packs I could get it all the way up to 230 again. That's an 80 degree difference just from changing driving style. If you're not consistently seeing 180s after hard driving you should be good to go. The only way to find out if it will get out of hand is to try and push it there. Obviously while monitoring temps. If it starts getting over 180 and there is still more battery pack left you can stop right there, because it will keep going if you push it. Are your ESC temps good? That's the more exspensive doosie it would be harder to forgive your boys for.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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