Today I went bashing and after a jump I noticed my rear tire looked a little funny. After inspecting it I realized the hinge pin to the left, rear, upper suspension arm came out!? This wasn't from the arm that broke last week (which was the right, front, lower suspension arm). But a sweet ending for the pin I lost today!
Here's the video...
https://youtu.be/Rwkpjtu5Nf8
And just in case ya missed this video I did the other day - lol!
https://youtu.be/vgLqUkClQXc
Last edited by Nickerz; 03-26-2019 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Added pic...
Love the truck in the pipe that was perfect lol.
I put a small washer on the screw,,,,,gives it more meat to hold onto,,,I had the same problem,,,but no more,,,seems to work a lot better so far,,with my fierce bashing,,,,been 2 weeks. So far so good......
Just wanted to update an older video I made in my post above...
I've been bored so I've tinkering around a little and I found some washers that fit perfectly under the screw and covers the hinge pin. It also helps by pushing the washer to cover the pin as you screw it in so it covers it even more.
Everbilt #6 Washer (Part #802451):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2451/204276448
Quick Video:
https://youtu.be/2vvY2zL5z1M
![]()
It’s not the pin coming out from the hole.
It’s that the arms can flex/spread so much the pin pops out.
The solution is the threaded pins like from RPM (lower in my picture). I’ve since replaced the upper too.
Did you watch the videos by any chance? This is what I was saying in the videos - same difference anyway. The washer is a cheaper alternative to the RPM pins and will prevent the pin from being pushed out and for only a $1.18 for 30 washers. That and you don't have to remove the pins, you're simply taking the screw out and replacing it with a washer.
***Edit***
Oh yeah...you don't have drill out anything like the RPM pins. I think it's great btw that RPM helps us out with our trucks but the washer method is easy, dirt cheap and saves more time in the end imho...
RPM Alternative:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_yAXn_hGPw
Last edited by Nickerz; 09-22-2020 at 12:21 AM.
In my picture above is exactly the way I found the pin upon removing the wheel during cleaning the truck after a run. The pin wasn’t going out from the screw hole end. The arm must have flexed open enough to allow it to pop out like that.
Maybe your case is different because you say you can actually push the pin in past the screw.
I see what you're saying. Yes, then mine must have been different b/c the pin was able to come through pass the screw as shown in my video. I could slide it back and forth. Then again, this is all b/c of the plastic flexing, depending on impact...
Just to build on that washer mod. Can’t we use a 3 x 8 flat head screw to get the same effect as a washer?
I am only putting this out there because I like the cleaner look of single piece rather than fumbling with a washer and screw.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...tra3931/p17639
Haven’t tried yet, but assuming it should work. I’ll try tonight and take pics if successful.
Looks like it’s a go. These look nice and work great.
https://imgur.com/gallery/5ZWOz4q
Last edited by afreek1000; 09-22-2020 at 09:09 PM.
Yes, thanks for posting that pic! It looks like it covers the pin more than the stock screw but not as much as the washer. If this works though, I'd rather use this as you said...it's a much cleaner look!
I haven't had any issue with losing pins since I used the washer hack but then I've also never lost a pin due to it coming lose out from the back. I guess it all depends on how the truck lands and where the stress is directed more...
I ordered a couple sets of those screws. Thanks.
Another idea that works well is grind a flat spot on the shaft and use a set screw through the arm to tighten down on the shaft flat. Losi uses a system like this on their 22SCT front inner pivot pins.
Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
Man I wish this forum allowed the ability to "like" posts. Good stuff boys!
If you guys try what i suggested always put the set screw in the area where the widest part of the pin goes if possible. The pin might bind if it has to rotate in a wider part of the arm/suspension. Just something I learned from TLR/Losi trucks, they actually use a 360° groove for the set screw to set in but that would be hard to do without a lathe. My DR10 uses the small screw against the end of the pin, not a big fan of that method. When they start to fall out I'm going with the TLR style retainer
Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk