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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    My latest stampede 4x4 vxl updates

    Well, have had this thing for 2 years. Bought it used. For most of that time, I ran 2S in it and it did fine. I replaced what I broke with stock or something better and as time went on, I really enjoyed running it. One issue I always had was the steering was very sketchy at higher speeds on pavement. I run in skate parks a lot, so hitting a jump how I intended didn't happen more often than I'd like. Then about 4 months or so ago, I started running 3S in it... then it got really sketchy.

    So much so that the last time I had it out, it jerked off course and hit a concrete leg of a skate park wall and snapped my alloy axle carrier on the front and mangled an alloy carrier on the rear.

    So, it was time for something hopefully better. I had replaced the servo saver/steering rack with hot racing 6 months or so ago. That took out some of the slop. I really needed to change all the ball ends, but never got around to it, that probably added to my issue as well. Since I had to replace both sets of carriers, I just went all in and got hot racing c-hubs, carriers for the front and carriers for the rear.

    When installing the rears, I didn't have to grind anything for the MIP's to fit without rubbing, but I'm not a huge fan of using tiny eclips on hinge pins... but I'll see how it does. One nice thing I guess is that the rear hinge pins have a set screw in the carrier so that the pivot in the arm instead of the carrier, which helps avoid wear/slop on the alloy part.


    When installing fronts, I liked that locked hinge pin, but they didn't include any. So, I made some out of 3mm bolts that hand the unthreaded part just long enough to go through entirely and with a 1mm spacer on one side with 1mm on the other, the locknut tight on where the threads stopped worked well to leave about 1mm of float. I drilled/tapped a hole in the carrier and put a set screw in there so it now also pivots on the arm instead of the alloy part:


    The king pin has a bushing so brass on aluminum vs steel on aluminum. Not sure which is better or worse, guess time will tell.

    I also have 12-17mm hubs that are extended 6mm to widen the footprint a bit, should help make it more stable at speed. They fit over the MIP alloy 12mm hexes which are slotted vs using a pin through the axle. Makes for a pretty solid setup:




    I also got some more ball ends as I didn't have enough to replace all of them, so will still need to change the ones on the steering rods. Got RPM ones to try out as well as stock ones in case they don't hold up well.

    Really looking forward to running this truck all summer. Hoping the max10 sct/3200kv system in holds up to 3S.

    Also need to figure out something to put on the tower 2 tower brace to support the cab of the body before I put a new body on. I had an ugly roll bar I made so it wouldn't crush the body and get destroyed after 3-4 roof landings, but it was a pain to work around. The T2T was to support the bed and hood, but the cab still crushes, so need to figure out something to hold the cab up. The T2T is easier to work around, so I'd like to stick with that approach vs strapping something to the sides of the chassis again.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    My latest stampede 4x4 vxl updates

    Glad youíre back. Always loved your videos, you got me to get a P4de. Truck is looking tough. Get the Brute body and donít look back.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Oh, that's nice. How's it holding up for you? They only have it in white, right?

    My wife got me a couple cheap bodies for the stampede for Christmas. I'll probably burn through those this summer, then ask he for one of those next Christmas. I was just keeping my old ratty body until I figured out a roll bar that worked to help prolong the life of them a bit.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Oh, that's nice. How's it holding up for you? They only have it in white, right?

    My wife got me a couple cheap bodies for the stampede for Christmas. I'll probably burn through those this summer, then ask he for one of those next Christmas. I was just keeping my old ratty body until I figured out a roll bar that worked to help prolong the life of them a bit.
    Only white, yes. They hold up awesome. A bit thicker so the Proline screw caps have to be lengthened. I have one on the X-Maxx as well. Iím impressed

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Got a link to the one you used? I'd hate to get the wrong one as I think they have a few.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Got a link to the one you used? I'd hate to get the wrong one as I think they have a few.
    https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...-white-4x4.asp

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Thanks! I'll put that on my amazon wish list if I can find it.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Guessing I changed image hosting services since I started this thread.

    History:

    2017/02/15: It was a mess when I got it. Tires/wheels were junk, slider axles nearly broken, filthy, shocks leaking, filthy... After a few hours of cleaning and getting some new wheels/tires for it:


    RPM front/rear carriers/c-hubs installed, 1/8th buggy shocks for the rear due to the rear ones being trashed and I wanted to run it while I figured out what to replace them with.

    2017/03/09: MIP X-Duty's installed:



    2017/04/14: New motor/esc installed. The stock esc kept overheating on me, even with a fan and running 2S. Got a castle sct sv3/3800kv combo:


    2017/05/26: king headz motor mount with larger bearings:


    2017/07/08: broke my first arm, installed RPM, also got trencher 2.8's on 12mm hex wheels:


    2018/07/17: Hot racing steering. Had also tried atomik rear/front axle carriers. They bent/broke easily later on.


    2019/01/03: got a center diff for it, the cup kind of warped on me and fried my spur, so I got a FLM cup:


    Started running 3S when I put in the plastic cup center diff.

    2019/01/08: GTR shocks with VDK in them, dubro ends on the front to make the truck sit more level. The GTR's are shorter than stock:


    2019/03/08: HR front/rear carriers and c-hubs, HR 17mm adapters, new set of 2.8 trenchers on 17mm wheels:
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    History continued:
    2019/03/09: broke my castle 3800kv motor shaft off... not sure how that happened. It was cold the day it happened and I hit a guard rail post, but wasn't going that fast. Guess it flexed the chassis just enough to snap the smaller shaft.


    2019/03/13: Got a hobbywing max10 sct/3200kv 3660sl system:


    2019/03/21: broke the truck in half... it jumps high now:


    2019/07/08: the 3660sl ran hot, so tried a hobbystar 3665/3100kv motor:


    Also redid the roll bar with a tower to tower 3/4" aluminum box stock, then stacked stuff up on it to support the roof of the body and the bed/hood of the body to help them last longer. Also made a little shelf/sled for the gopro to strap into:


    2020/04/20: It was very twitchy in the air and tough to drive at the grass bmx track I started running at, so I wanted to calm it down a bit and installed a slash chassis, also put in a blx185 150A esc now that I had more room:


    2020/05/12: Installed a probodyrc body on it as the original body was too short:


    2020/05/26: Installed the motor from my old ERBEv1, the traxxas/castle 2200kv motor with a 19T pinion and put 4mm connectors on it:


    Also made a new T2T brace as the slash chassis is really bendy. Was snapping off my body posts since the probodyrc body is pretty rigid and the posts were pretty small. I modified some old 1/8th scale posts I had in a drawer to work with it as well.

    2020/05/26: Made a titanium rear skid. During one of my first test runs with the 2200kv motor it in, the butt drug and caught a brick at my local park, knocked a hole in the rear/lower skid and took a couple teeth out of the spur:


    Also installed sway bars somewhere in there, a hitec 5985MG servo (had one on hand), RPM rod ends in hopes that they would last a while longer in key positions, a second set of RPM arms as the originals were severely bowed and had white spots where they were bending to extreme amounts where the shocks mounted when I was running the 1/8th buggy shocks on it. I don't think the chassis bottomed out before the shocks did, so the arms flexed/bent to make the difference.

    Just finished my first real bash with the 2200kv motor in it. I need to figure out a fan for it as it runs on the warm side, but performs waaaaaay better than the 3665 did. Even on 3S, it is nearly as quick with a 19T pinion. I've ordered larger pinions, but it is already running warm, so will think about it after I sort out a fan.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  10. #10
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    about the GTR shocks being shorter, is there a way to fit the xxl shocks in the front i heard that if you put a rear shock tower in the front it would allow for longer shocks, but is that true?

    olds97 you have a youtube channel? if so what is it. i'm in need of more rc content.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I think you can do that with the rear tower and xx-long GTR's for the rear. But you have to sort out the body mount for the front yourself since it will be raised as well, which will make the front of the body taller than the rear. Since you can't pull a pin and slide it up or down like many other RC's, you have to maybe cut the long body mount posts so they are shorter, drill the center hole in them, then put hem on the front body mount thing. Only issue with that is you lose the locking relief that keeps the post from spinning.

    I cut mine all down so I could lower the body.

    My youtube:
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

    Been posting my RC bashing videos for the past 3 years. Hope you like them. I'm not the best at editing... lol!

    Currently working on today's video with the 2200kv motor in it. It will be up there shortly.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  12. #12
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Didn't realize you and Slick2500 have YT channels.

    Anyway, yes you can put the XXL shocks on the front and they allow the truck to land quite a bit better, will have to run a rear shock tower backwards and you lose the ability to run swaybars. And the front will be taller as olds97 mentioned.

    http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2016...-on-front.html
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Didn't realize you and Slick2500 have YT channels.

    Anyway, yes you can put the XXL shocks on the front and they allow the truck to land quite a bit better, will have to run a rear shock tower backwards and you lose the ability to run swaybars. And the front will be taller as olds97 mentioned.

    http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2016...-on-front.html
    Good to know. I didn't know it made it so you couldn't run sway bars. I recently installed those on mine. Then again, running squishy RPM arms likely negates any benefit I get from the sway bars... Adding the dubro ends made quite a difference as well while still allowing the chassis to bottom out before the shock does.

    My latest video is up:
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 05-28-2020 at 10:29 AM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  14. #14
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    I run on an 1/8 scale outdoor track, its like cemented clay with a loose layer of dust. anyways traction is very low would you want to run sway bars on these conditions? i'm just track preping my Losi DB pro and with the stock setup i have sway bars on should take them off?

  15. #15
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx. D View Post
    I run on an 1/8 scale outdoor track, its like cemented clay with a loose layer of dust. anyways traction is very low would you want to run sway bars on these conditions? i'm just track preping my Losi DB pro and with the stock setup i have sway bars on should take them off?
    #1 get the right tires for the track, check what the fast guys are using and run those
    #2 in general, the looser/rougher the track, the less you want to run swaybars. However, the taller the vehicle the more you would want to run it as the truck/DB rolls so much. I would run it as is, and then try it the next pack changing it over and see if it's better.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Didn't realize you and Slick2500 have YT channels.

    Anyway, yes you can put the XXL shocks on the front and they allow the truck to land quite a bit better, will have to run a rear shock tower backwards and you lose the ability to run swaybars. And the front will be taller as olds97 mentioned.

    http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2016...-on-front.html
    Wait who told you my secret

  17. #17
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slick2500 View Post
    Wait who told you my secret
    Where's the Like button in this place!
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  18. #18
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    As a rookie, I'm watching your video thinking "Are you trying to break it???"
    Seriously, though... Cool stuff. I considered going to the skate park tonight, but we're on a curfew and I don't need the hassle.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheZombie View Post
    As a rookie, I'm watching your video thinking "Are you trying to break it???"
    Seriously, though... Cool stuff. I considered going to the skate park tonight, but we're on a curfew and I don't need the hassle.
    Not trying to break it, I just like to jump stuff. I don't have too many places to run the stampede and it does really well at the skate park. I run it at a grass bmx track too if it's mowed short. I haven't been there in a while though. If it's not mowed, the stampede drags too much, runs hot and gets a lot of speed sapped off from the excess drag.

    I just installed a set of the HD arms on the rear of it to see if it helps with the ball ends popping off on the top/inside turnbuckle. I also replaced the pins that came with the HR rear carriers with 12.9 3mm bolts that were 55mm, but the unthreaded part was just long enough to go through the entire arm and have about 1.5mm or so sticking out. I put a spacer and locknut on then cut it off flush.


    I did the same with the pin on the front previously:


    I bought arms for the front too, but I don't have as many issues with the turnbuckle on them popping off. I'll likely replace the rpm arms anyway as they are pretty warped. I just ran out of time when I was replacing the rear arms.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 06-06-2020 at 03:10 AM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    New arms didn't seem to help much. They still popped off.

    Also chooched my spur gear yesterday. After one of my jumps, it sounded weird, but I thought something was just rubbing on the center shaft guard. I should have looked as the mesh got messed up and was too tight. Then the pinion slid on the shaft and smoothed half the teeth off the spur.

    Was a short run at a small skate park on the way home from a bmx track. The track was overgrown, needed mowed bad. Down the middle of the path for nearly every jump was a lot of overgrown clover plants, which killed my ERBEv2. It spun it's wheels most of the time and was hard to pick up speed to jump, also ran hot. I didn't even bother trying to run the stampede there. Still, I wanted to run it somewhere with some decent jumping to see how the arms did. I didn't record half the run (kind of boring to watch anyway) as I forgot to shut the camera off while I was wrenching on it and then the battery ran out.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    My hitec 5985 servo has a lot of slop in it as well. That's not helping things. Think it's time to retire it, or at least use it for t/b where the linkage can take up the slop better as it's not helping with the slop already in the stampede for steering. I keep having to adjust the trim, a lot and even then, it tends to list to one direction or the other. Might try mounting the linkage closer to the servo output shaft, not sure I'll get enough throw though, but any slop in the servo would be less exaggerated. I have a few alternate servos to try.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Latest run from last weekend. I dropped in an HPI Tork 2200kv 4074 to replace the traxxas/castle of the same spec motor. I also replaced the servo since the last post and the drag link (noted in another thread I think). Servo is a JX DC-5821LV which isn't blisteringly fast, but metal geared, waterproof and not as sloppy as the old/tired hitec it replaced. I need to mess with the motor fan though as I didn't mount it very well. It looked better on my bench somehow. I need to run some holes through it so it blows air on the actual motor as the motor has half of it covered with tall spikey fins, so having a heat sink that makes contact is kind of useless.

    I stayed with the same 19/54 gearing I had before as I wanted to see how it did compared to what it replaced. Seemed to do fine even though it was 85F/80% humidity out. I ran out of ambition before I ran out of trucks... Think I'll throw a 20T on it when I mess with the fan/heat sink tonight.



    The new motor seems to have more grunt than the old one. Still seemed to give me a good run time, just under 30 minutes. Hoping to see how it does at the grass bmx track tomorrow. Also hoping that it's mowed or I won't even take the stampede out of the bag.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  23. #23
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    That's a nice little thermometer you've got there. Where did you get it? Would be easier to carry then the normal gun style.
    Also, you ever try badlands on the grass track? They are a huge improvement over the trenchers on grass (and other soft terrain). Wouldn't be ideal on all the concrete you run on though.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    This is the thermometer:
    https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-ht...ermometer.html

    Oddly, I just put the OEM tires on my outcast tonight because they are lighter than the 3.8" trenchers I usually run to try out at the grass track tomorrow, if it's been mowed. With it being so hot out, I thought it would be a good time to try the stock tires as I never ran them in the 2 years I've owned the truck. Their tread is a lot like badlands, but a taller sidewall.

    Since I spend so much time at skate parks with the stampede, I will likely stick with the 2.8 trenchers, just for the wear. They do well enough on grass for me and I almost never run on dirt. I wouldn't mind trying out a set of the traxxas maxx tires, but I don't think they are offset enough and will make the truck even more narrow and will likely hit the shock/turnbuckle when turning.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    What a great place to run your rig!
    Last edited by Squeegie; 07-11-2020 at 12:31 AM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Ran a little on the warm side this weekend at the grass bmx track. Was seeing 145F on the esc and 150F on the motor. It was about 80F outside and the grass wasn't as short as I'd have preferred. It did pretty well otherwise though. Chewed through the pack a lot faster, only 15 minutes vs the 27 minutes I got running at the skate park. I was doing far more WOT running though, so that combined with the grass really burned through the pack quick. I also put a 20T pinion in it to see how it would do, I may drop that back to a 19T if I take it back there again so it doesn't have to work the esc so hard.

    Sure flies a lot better with the slash chassis though.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I wanted to try a larger set of tires on it. My 2.8 trenchers are all shined up from driving in grass and the treads are getting pretty worn. Really wish duratrax would put out a set of the faze mt on .5" offset/17mm wheels. Those hook up really good in the grass and are a bit larger than the trenchers.

    But, they don't, so I decided to try a set of old losi zombiemaxx tires I have on RPM .5" offset 3.2" wheels.

    I thought I had the HR 12->17 6mm extended adapters, so I ordered the 10mm extended to help push the 3.2 wheels out a bit further for clearance. The new hubs showed up and before I opened them I compared them to what I had... I already had the 10mm ones. So I sent them back.

    I had ordered a set of 3.8" .5" offset lower profile cheap tires/wheels at the same time. From what I saw in the photo's on amazon, they were a bit narrower/smaller than revo talon's. I got them today and had 3 for the left side of the truck and 1 for the right side... the tread is directional. That was annoying. I didn't notice it until I had opened the package and bolted 2 up, then realized I had one with the tread in the wrong direction. So I boiled it, popped it off and flipped/reglued it.

    They are a bit narrower than the zombiemaxx's and lower profile, so they aren't as big, or as heavy. The test run I did last night with the zombie's went ok, but there was a lot of body rub when I turned and slowed down which cause the shocks to dip. It rolled along really nice though, plowed through 3" grass a lot better than the 2.8 trenchers.

    Hoping to get it out this weekend and see how the new tires do for me. I dropped the pinion down a couple teeth to compensate for the larger OD.

    3.2" zombies:




    The new 3.8 RCStation 17mm .5" offset MT tires:
    Link to them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G4T96VT





    Comparison next to 3.8" traxxas chevrons, 3.8" Talon EXT's and 2.8" trenchers:
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Nice update. Truck is looking good


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Including my post from my ackerman bar update with bearings from my other thread so everything is in one place for easier reference.

    Final with images from here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...h-stampede-4x4

    Well, the bearings showed up and as luck would have it, I had some 3x5x.2mm shims on hand already. I bought a cheap metric drill bit set a while back on amazon and it had 4,4.2,4,5,5.5,6mm bits in it. So I used very light pressure and used all of them from 4->6mm to drill them out. Since there is very little material there when drilled out, and I don't have a drill press, figured the worse I could do was ruin my hot racing ackerman bar that was already egged out and replaced with the traxxas aluminum one I put in last week.

    Bearings used, 3x6x2.5 flanged metal shielded :
    https://www.bocabearings.com/products/rctp63f-zz-16777

    Drilled out HR vs traxxas:


    The HR one is a bit thicker than the traxxas one. With a bearing on top/bottom and a .2mm shim in between as a crush spacer, with the .2mm shim also on the bottom, I was able to tighten the screw with zero binding.

    HR vs traxxas thickness:



    Shims:


    Installed:



    Was a bit of a pain to keep everything together. I put a tiny amount of orange locktite on the ackerman bar, dropped the bearing in, put a screw, crush shim, another drop and the other bearing, then let it dry a bit so the bearings would stay in place. Also put some on the screw after dropping the bottom shim on and let it dry a bit so the bottom shim wouldn't fall off while I was trying to get things situated.

    Zero slop now. Will see how it holds up. The only slop now is in the ball ends and servo, which is very minimal. The GPM carriers with bearings are still tight and holding up well.

    I don't know why it bugged me so much... it isn't like I'm trying to build a speed rig for 100mph. I think it was just the wear issue and having to take the entire front end apart to replace it and the wandering when running on pavement also just got on my nerves.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Guessing the next update I may need to do due to the larger tires would be to replace the diff cups with ones that use the steel inserts for the x-pin and perhaps the i-bar from the ERBE/X-01. Pretty sure I just have standard cups in it now.

    Did some speed checking online to try to see what kind of gearing I would need to do before I run it with the new tires, not sure dropping from 20 to 18 was enough:
    https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

    Using that, with the motor/tires I'm running it shows the speed as 51.51MPH, but with the new tires and 18T, it shows 56.02MPH. So I may drop it down to 17T before I run it as I have a spare 17T pinion. That would take it to 52.91MPH.

    Not sure how accurate that site is, or in reference to the tire expansion, I just based it off the "at rest" tire size and didn't put in anything for tire ballooning for comparison as a baseline to see the MPH difference.

    Also noticed a lot of slop on the rear axle carriers/hinge pin, so may need to order a new set of those as well, then use orange lock tite on the set screws so the alloy carrier doesn't get slop in it so bad. I don't think the blue locktite I used held the hinge pin bolt that well. I noticed the slop before with the 2.8 tires, but it's really noticeable now with the larger tires.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I also replaced the pins that came with the HR rear carriers with 12.9 3mm bolts that were 55mm, but the unthreaded part was just long enough to go through the entire arm and have about 1.5mm or so sticking out. I put a spacer and locknut on then cut it off flush.


    I did the same with the pin on the front previously:


    I bought arms for the front too, but I don't have as many issues with the turnbuckle on them popping off. I'll likely replace the rpm arms anyway as they are pretty warped. I just ran out of time when I was replacing the rear arms.
    Yeah... I'm an idiot. The suspension pins that I replaced with a bolt are larger, around 3.2-3.3mm, so the 3mm bolts add slop. I just realized that tonight because I was noticing my rear carriers were super sloppy, figured it was wear. So I ordered a new set of alloy carriers and as I installed one side, I noticed how sloppy it still was. Then I took the pin that came with them and put it in instead of a 3mm bolt and a ton of slop went away. I still don't care for having a pin that isn't captured on both sides, so I dug in my old parts and found some old SS hinge pins from my t-maxx days. They fit perfect, but they used c-clips and since I needed them to be shorter, I decided to use 1/8" collars instead. I just dremmelled a flat spot, put orange locktite on the set screw and cranked them down. I put the old carriers back on and it removed soooo much slop. I still need to do the same to the front, but since it's 2am and I have to get up in 4 hours, that will wait a few days until I get the orange HD cold weather arms I ordered to replace one of the HD blue ones I broke last weekend.

    Just felt I should post in here before anyone else did the same stupid thing I did based off what I said "worked".

    These are the old pins I had that I cut down to fit:
    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-4939X.../dp/B0006O5OK6

    The hot racing carriers have set screws built into them to lock the hinge pins to the carrier. Then the pivoting/wear is on the arm instead of the carrier. The screws seem to keep coming loose, so they were just pivoting on the bolts anyway. Now that I have larger pins in there, maybe they will hold better.

    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    My latest bash with the new 3.8" tires posted up above:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6561613

    I really like them so far. The truck seems to roll through the grass much easier now. A little more ground clearance and larger OD seems to give it less rolling resistance in general. I checked the speed and with 17/54, I got up to 45MPH up a slight grade, 48MPH down the grade. I will likely put an 18T on it and see how it does. Could just just a tick more speed to clear some of the gaps at the grass bmx track I run at frequently.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Ugh... hit a tree today going pretty fast. Shattered one of my GPM c-hubs and HR axle carrier. I think the axle carriers bottom post gave way because the broken surface doesn't all look fresh. That twisted the entire hub which then busted the carrier.



    Nothing like a 5 minute bash session that costs you $60.

    Replacing the carriers with traxxas's 6061's. Wish they had orange... contemplated getting GPM's orange c-hub with bearing and their carrier, but I have to assume that the traxxas 6061-t6 are the best available. So I ordered another set of the GPM c-hub and traxxas carriers, both in blue.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    All fixed:


    And now I'm going to try running 4S in it. Dropped the pinion from 18 to 15, best calculated estimates put it at 8mph or so faster than the 48mph I currently was at.

    Made some 4S lipo packs out of 4 older 3S 6200mah hobbystar packs I was using in it and my ejato (which I need to regear for 4S as well).

    Got my 4S balance extensions in yesterday. Cut a couple to make balance plugs:


    That was before I insulated all the tabs with polyimide tape.

    Since I lost track of which cells were which, I charged them up and logged the IR my chargers show for them. Not quite as matched as I would have liked... oh well:




    Was intending on making 3 4S packs out of the 4 3S packs I had, but one of the cells got a small hole in it while I was removing the protective glued on cardboard, so instead of risking a fire, I just didn't make a 3rd pack. 2 should be plenty anyway as I usually only ran 2 3S packs through it whenever I took it out.

    Intending on running it today. I dropped my punch down from 6 to 4. I have the X01 diff cups and ibar/spider internals coming tomorrow, but I want to try it out today. Hoping the softer punch will avoid me blowing the stock diffs out.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; Today at 09:52 AM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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