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  1. #1
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    MaX-D Needs a New Motor

    Aaaaaaaalright........MaX-D needs a new motor. I've been using a Tekin Pro4 4000kv motor. I snapped the shaft clean in two. It's a smaller 3.17mm shaft. I definitely want a 5mm shaft at this point. I don't want to spend the money on another Tekin. I only run my truck on 2s.

    Hobbywing has a 3652 4300kv motor and a 3660 3200kv motor. I gear the truck 54/9 or 54/11. Being a monster truck, I like the torque. It's not a speed machine. The fact that one is $10 cheaper doesn't sway my decision. I like a sensored motor on this truck. What do you guys think?

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...401150/p580787

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...401059/p580786

    Here's a pic of the truck so you can see what I'm talking about.




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    Last edited by MaXDee; 04-06-2019 at 08:43 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    I have the HW 4300kV in my Rusty 4x, along with a Xerun XR8 Plus, and the stock 54/12 gearing (although the gears, themselves, are NOT sick - replaced both with Robinson Racing hardened steel, as well as the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit). If course, I've also replaced the Rx with a Futaba R304SBS, and the servo with a Spektrum unit (blanking on the model number).

    Truth be told, they make a great combination. Throw some JConcept Prime, or Octagon, SCT tires on some SCT wheels, mount them on your Slash (as I did on my Rusty 4x), and you've got a fairly race-capable vehicle for a clay (or well-packed dirt) off-road track...of course, that's assuming you've replaced the Traxxas "Ultra" shocks with something better.

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  3. #3
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Based on your post the choice seems real clear so I can't make a suggestion. If you can't find the obvious you don't want too or you already know what you want.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    I have the HW 4300kV in my Rusty 4x, along with a Xerun XR8 Plus, and the stock 54/12 gearing (although the gears, themselves, are NOT sick - replaced both with Robinson Racing hardened steel, as well as the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit). If course, I've also replaced the Rx with a Futaba R304SBS, and the servo with a Spektrum unit (blanking on the model number).

    Truth be told, they make a great combination. Throw some JConcept Prime, or Octagon, SCT tires on some SCT wheels, mount them on your Slash (as I did on my Rusty 4x), and you've got a fairly race-capable vehicle for a clay (or well-packed dirt) off-road track...of course, that's assuming you've replaced the Traxxas "Ultra" shocks with something better.

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    I'm running a Tekin RX8 ESC. I have replaced the Ultra Shocks with GTR's. I like how you think with turning the truck back into a SCT to take to the track. Wouldn't take but 10-15 mins. I still have the tires, body, body posts, and f/r bumpers. The 4300kv was my first choice as it was the same sized can as the Tekin, and similar kv, until I saw the 3200kv. Then I was unsure.

    My gut was telling me 4300kv. Thanks for rationalizing this. This seems to be the logical choice.

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Based on your post the choice seems real clear so I can't make a suggestion. If you can't find the obvious you don't want too or you already know what you want.
    Yes, it was so clear. Sometimes it's easier as an outsider looking in to see the obvious. Always nice to have good friends here on the forums to steer you in the right direction.

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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    I'm running a Tekin RX8 ESC. I have replaced the Ultra Shocks with GTR's. I like how you think with turning the truck back into a SCT to take to the track. Wouldn't take but 10-15 mins. I still have the tires, body, body posts, and f/r bumpers. The 4300kv was my first choice as it was the same sized can as the Tekin, and similar kv, until I saw the 3200kv. Then I was unsure. My gut was telling me 4300kv. Thanks for rationalizing this. This seems to be the logical choice.
    The Tekin RX8 & HW XR8 are fairly equivalent...well, except that the Tekin costs considerably more (which is why I've switched from Tekin, to Hobbywing).
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  7. #7
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    MaX-D Needs a New Motor

    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    The Tekin RX8 & HW XR8 are fairly equivalent...well, except that the Tekin costs considerably more (which is why I've switched from Tekin, to Hobbywing).
    This is the same reason I'm switching to Hobbywing. This is the only truck left with a Tekin. The other 7 have Hobbywing.

    I never had a problem with heat with the Tekin (no fan on the motor). This truck weighs 7lbs 12oz without a battery, 8lbs 8oz with a 6500mah 2s. I'm assuming the performance between my old Tekin and the HW 4300kv are similar. Any heat issues with the Hobbywing?


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  8. #8
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    MaX-D Needs a New Motor

    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Based on your post the choice seems real clear so I can't make a suggestion. If you can't find the obvious you don't want too or you already know what you want.
    Although I've made my decision, I'm curious, what would've been your suggestion for a motor?


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  9. #9
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Although I've made my decision, I'm curious, what would've been your suggestion for a motor?


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    The 3660 3200kv seemed to fit your wants.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Any heat issues with the Hobbywing?
    It's too early to tell...and, for an INCREDIBLY unfortunate reason. While I have 5 HW ESCs, only one has actually been installed. The "unfortunate" part is that, in that first vehicle (TLR 22 5.0 SR), I had some problems with it from the get-go.

    I won't go into the details (it's well-documented in the RC Tech forums, in the "Hobbywing Support" thread), but, to make a long story short, it died the first time I took it out...but, HW is shipping me a replacement. Explaining to others at the track, even they are baffled as to what happened. But, the consensus is, HW does make excellent products, with very few "lemons" (is. like the one in my buggy).

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  11. #11
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    I've been thinking about this motor thing and have come to realize that I'll probably never turn it back into a SCT. If memory serves, I believe the reason for turning my truck into a monster truck is the truck sat collecting dust for well over a year. I much more enjoy driving 2wd SCT and Stadium Truck (Have TLR vehicles). Therefore, I'm going to go with the 3200kv motor.

    I drive this truck like a Monster JAM truck, with jumps and obstacles. I even set up a racing course from time to time and race my son. His truck is Grave Digger with 2.8 Mashers.

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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    I've been thinking about this motor thing and have come to realize that I'll probably never turn it back into a SCT. If memory serves, I believe the reason for turning my truck into a monster truck is the truck sat collecting dust for well over a year. I much more enjoy driving 2wd SCT and Stadium Truck (Have TLR vehicles). Therefore, I'm going to go with the 3200kv motor.

    I drive this truck like a Monster JAM truck, with jumps and obstacles. I even set up a racing course from time to time and race my son. His truck is Grave Digger with 2.8 Mashers.

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    Then a lower RPM motor...as well as gearing more for torque, and less for speed...is your best bet. Well, that, and having certain you have the most heavy-duty/bullet-proof mechanical components you can install.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Then a lower RPM motor...as well as gearing more for torque, and less for speed...is your best bet. Well, that, and having certain you have the most heavy-duty/bullet-proof mechanical components you can install.

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    I think the drivetrain is about as bulletproof as it can get. XO-1 f/r diffs, center diff, Tekno Big-bone center driveshaft, Traxxas steel Constant Velocity driveshafts. I haven't had a bit of trouble with any of it. I don't beat on the truck too hard and drive like an idiot. Things rarely break, but will the 3200kv be too much torque?

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  14. #14
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    I think the drivetrain is about as bulletproof as it can get. XO-1 f/r diffs, center diff, Tekno Big-bone center driveshaft, Traxxas steel Constant Velocity driveshafts. I haven't had a bit of trouble with any of it. I don't beat on the truck too hard and drive like an idiot. Things rarely break, but will the 3200kv be too much torque?

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    Should be OK, I have an Arrma 3200kV 3660 on my 2WD Stampede with plastic driveshafts, and it holds up fine on 2S.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Should be OK, I have an Arrma 3200kV 3660 on my 2WD Stampede with plastic driveshafts, and it holds up fine on 2S.
    Thanks Razor


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  16. #16
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    Why not replace the rotor with a new 5mm shaft rotor and bearings in your Tekin motor?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncpantherfan71 View Post
    Why not replace the rotor with a new 5mm shaft rotor and bearings in your Tekin motor?
    I didn't know you could do that. What would I look up to find that?

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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I'm guessing that you don't want to rebuild your Tekin?

    https://www.teamtekin.com/shop/index...product_id=134
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    http://www.activepowersports.com/tek...hoCYMwQAvD_BwE

    If the link doesn't work, let me know.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I'm guessing that you don't want to rebuild your Tekin?

    https://www.teamtekin.com/shop/index...product_id=134
    I'm all for rebuilding. I just didn't know that you could replace the rotor like that. Heck of a lot cheaper, that's for sure.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncpantherfan71 View Post
    http://www.activepowersports.com/tek...hoCYMwQAvD_BwE

    If the link doesn't work, let me know.
    Do I need anything else besides the rotor? Bearings? Or is this all I need?

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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    The one that ncpantherfan71 linked is for their 5mm shaft.

    The one I linked is for their 1/8" shaft.

    Make sure that you get the one you need.



    If the only thing wrong is the shaft, I think the rotor is all you need.

    If you need other parts, scroll down to the bottom for part numbers:
    https://www.teamtekin.com/pro4.html

    https://www.teamtekin.com/shop/
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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Do I need anything else besides the rotor? Bearings? Or is this all I need?

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    The Tekin rebuild kit should come with bearings...however, if you want even higher performance from the motor, you could always get Ceramic bearings. When I say "higher performance", I'm referring to less resistance, a more freely-spinning rotor, and thus a more efficient kV output.

    There are several companies (Boca, Avid, Acer, etc) producing Ceramic bearings for vehicles, as well as motors. I'm not going to say any one is better than the others, but I would suggest avoiding any of the "individually owned/operated" businesses (ie. the 'Fast Eddie' types).

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  24. #24
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    I would suggest avoiding any of the "individually owned/operated" businesses (ie. the 'Fast Eddie' types).

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    Why would you say that without a reason included?

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Why would you say that without a reason included?
    For multiple reasons. Some are doing nothing more than purchasing the products from other (sometimes multiple) sources, and reselling them under their own business name. Because of situations like this, you have no way of knowing/verifying the quality of the product. There are also others who are purchasing the components, and building in their own workshop/garage, which, again, there's no quality control, as well no warranty. Then, there's also individuals operating under a fictitious business names (nothing wrong with "fictitious business names", more commonly referred to as "DBA") who purchase leftover products (some might have been sitting around for weeks, while other items could be months, or even years, old) and selling them. In this example a you could end up with some excellent quality Ceramic bearings a except for the fact that the grease inside is all dried up (gone). This would be similar to buying electronics off the back of a truck.

    On the other hand, purchasing from a larger, well-known supplier, such as those mentioned in my previous post, leaves you will product of known quality, typically with a warranty. This has nothing to do with price...notice, I'm not saying to only buy Boca (their quality is out of this world, but so are their prices)...but the quality of the product, and those standing behind the product they sell.

    On one hand, most people don't mind paying higher prices for higher/known-quality products. On the other hand, like many others, I'm a "bargain hunter", looking for great prices/deals, but, at the same time, I won't sacrifice quality just to get a better price. Worded this way, does it make more sense to you?

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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    The one that ncpantherfan71 linked is for their 5mm shaft.

    The one I linked is for their 1/8" shaft.

    Make sure that you get the one you need.



    If the only thing wrong is the shaft, I think the rotor is all you need.

    If you need other parts, scroll down to the bottom for part numbers:
    https://www.teamtekin.com/pro4.html

    https://www.teamtekin.com/shop/
    Since I snapped the 1/8 sized shaft completely in half, I figured it would be better to get a 5 mm for durability sake. Thank you for the links.

    What would cause the shaft to completely snap in half like that? It's snapped about halfway between the motor and the pinion.

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  27. #27
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    While I have never used either of them, I have read good reviews of both Avid and Fast Eddy bearings. Panther, you typically say things with which I agree, so have you had a negative experience with them? Have other racers in the SF Bay area?

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMcD308 View Post
    While I have never used either of them, I have read good reviews of both Avid and Fast Eddy bearings. Panther, you typically say things with which I agree, so have you had a negative experience with them? Have other racers in the SF Bay area?
    Not specifically with Ceramic bearings...but, yes, I've had a few "problematic" situations. One was almost "nightmarish" (electronic components "distributer"), tho that 'business' disappeared after numerous complaints made by people.

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  29. #29
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    If replacing a rotor I always replace bearings at the same time, just for my piece of mind, cheap insurance.

    Also if you don't want to actually rebuild it you can give Tekin a call send it in and they will check it over good and rebuild it for you.
    Last edited by ncpantherfan71; 04-10-2019 at 04:34 PM.

  30. #30
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    For multiple reasons. Some are doing nothing more than purchasing the products from other (sometimes multiple) sources, and reselling them under their own business name. Because of situations like this, you have no way of knowing/verifying the quality of the product. There are also others who are purchasing the components, and building in their own workshop/garage, which, again, there's no quality control, as well no warranty. Then, there's also individuals operating under a fictitious business names (nothing wrong with "fictitious business names", more commonly referred to as "DBA") who purchase leftover products (some might have been sitting around for weeks, while other items could be months, or even years, old) and selling them. In this example a you could end up with some excellent quality Ceramic bearings a except for the fact that the grease inside is all dried up (gone). This would be similar to buying electronics off the back of a truck.

    On the other hand, purchasing from a larger, well-known supplier, such as those mentioned in my previous post, leaves you will product of known quality, typically with a warranty. This has nothing to do with price...notice, I'm not saying to only buy Boca (their quality is out of this world, but so are their prices)...but the quality of the product, and those standing behind the product they sell.

    On one hand, most people don't mind paying higher prices for higher/known-quality products. On the other hand, like many others, I'm a "bargain hunter", looking for great prices/deals, but, at the same time, I won't sacrifice quality just to get a better price. Worded this way, does it make more sense to you?

    ~ Coming to you live, from somewhere on planet Earth.
    That is some valuable information thank you for sharing.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncpantherfan71 View Post
    If replacing a rotor I always replace bearings at the same time, just for my piece of mind, cheap insurance.

    Also if you don't want to actually rebuild it you can give Tekin a call send it in and they will check it over good and rebuild it for you.
    I appreciate the info. I'm not afraid to tackle something new. I'm always wanting to learn. It looks like it's just two bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong.

    What would cause the shaft to snap in the first place? I'm just curious that's all.

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  32. #32
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    It isn't uncommon for 3mm shafts to break on 4wd short course trucks. Lots of torque and traction, something has to give and sometimes it is the shaft.

  33. #33
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    Thanks everybody for the help. I'm going to go with the rotor with the 5mm shaft.


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  34. #34
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    I still haven't picked up the rotor. Funds are low at the moment. Dang quarterly taxes.....


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