Just finished the GT body, the Fox Body I drove around last year and has a little wear. It's getting fresh paint and custom sticker job, they're both done with Plasti Dip.
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Built it more for handling around a parking lot.... my alternate mounting for the GPM arms. Front braces are lower to clear 0 offset wheels (Or the foams everyone uses). Rear, I used short ball ends and the 3mm spacer in order not to change the geometry from stock.
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Did you Plasti Dip the inside or outside of the body?
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The inside, my plan is to "dip" the outside clear then peel the inside and repaint. Most of the decals on the mustang are on the inside too, just printed in reverse.
I mainly want to redo the decals and fix where the paint rubbed off from control arm flex and backspacing issues which have been sorted.
This was my first paint job and after I found out the price of hobby paint, dip was a no brainier, I wanted it white anyway. The GT is blaze blue backed in white.
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hey decoy octopus where did you find fox body mustang that thing is sweet beans
Over the past year I slowly tuned the suspension. I "modded" my GPM braces (upper a-arms), upgraded the shocks/springs and it handles like its on rails on 3S, with rubber tires. I've never tried foams, probably a must for serious speed runs.
It will do a straight line rolling burnout at wot, with stock tires or cheap rubber ones. It honestly looks like the most controllable 4T2 I've seen on 3S power.
I also filed away some material on the front hubs so there's at 1mm of clearance between them and the axle shafts, it makes the car way more driveable full throttle. I had to file the hubs because they would rip the oring on my traxxas cvd shafts. The anodizing on the CVD above rubbed off with the stock plastic hubs.
Can you post a video of said rolling burnout? That would be cool to see.
Catch my videos at youtube.com/c/offworkhours
I need to invest in some decent vid equipment, but I might be able to get something.
It's not making smoke like a hoontruck, but I can hear the tires scratching for a long distance from part throttle to WOT. Before it would spin out, sometimes into a fiery barrel roll.
I'll better explain what I did the the GPM arms, they screw up the roll center out of the package. They almost had a perfect product with minimal hardware and mounting changes.
hey decoy where did you get the fox mustang body
Aplastics, post 6
I had a real fox body and I got a replacement... lol.
When I saw it I jumped on it, mine was one of the first ten preorders. While I was waiting for it I researched chassis for it, I never had a hobbygrade anything. Before this I'd hobbygrade 80s-90s toys. I almost didn't go with the 4tec, but overall I'm glad I did.
I've always been fascinated by the history and evolution of the GT(40), my less obtainable dream car.
I thought there had to be a better way to stiffen it. I put 36 of these threaded inserts throughout the chassis. M3x6mm stainless inserts.
It's so much more solid and rigid. I only have this RC, but my next one will get this treatment.
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Yeah, I drilled the holes out with one of those finger drills (just under 5mm wide, 6mm deep). I just used a M3x6 washer/spacer and a normal screw to set the inserts in flush. No special tools. They fit real tight in the composite parts like the chassis.
I never had a screw loosen 'metal on metal', maybe its more true for offroad. I have all grades of threadlocker for real cars.
It seems like every upgrade that makes it stiffer (aluminum parts/inserts) the less rocks get in the steering. Maybe, it rolls over debris instead kicking it in...