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  1. #1
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    1/10 Summit Driveshafts

    Hi,

    I have searched the forum and found a number of threads on this topic, but they seem to be old and out of date.
    I've had my Summit for a few years now and due to space and time, just managed to dig it out of storage and start playing again!

    I've never been a fan of the stock driveshafts - I can't stand the little grub screw, it always manages to loosen! So I'm looking for recommendations for an upgrade. I like the look of the LEM in the other threads, but can't find a supplier and I think the website is down, or they are no longer manufactured.
    These look good though ProLine PL6274-00

    I'm from the UK so a distributor who delivers here would be preferred.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Really? Clean it up and give it some fresh loctite. Otherwise, you are looking at E Revo axles with U joints, weaker than the OEM, or something like MIP, that is just an all metal Summit axle in reality, a bit stronger. I have a build that has MIPs up front and Summits out back, using Summit drive axles down the center as well to the diffs, simply because they don't seem to break. Not that it matters on a Summit, but you get close to 45 degrees out of them as well, 35 on MIP.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply.

    Is there not a solution that doesn't involve a tiny grub screw? I find them so fiddly and don't really like the small hex key. I was thinking something along the lines of what's on the T-Maxx (like this) but metal.



    Just been doing some more research, and something like this would be nice.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Sp2deSummit's Avatar
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    Just been doing some more research, and something like this would be nice.
    I hope you know that those use grub screws too...
    I like free stuff!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sp2deSummit View Post
    I hope you know that those use grub screws too...
    Not in the UJ though? I'm guessing they attach to the diff like the stock Summit with a pin?

  6. #6
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    Iíd be wary of those driveshafts. Unless they are hardened steel they are probably not as strong as the stock ones and are too expensive to experiment with IMO. Look into MIP. Much better quality. Also if youíll clean your driveshafts where the grub screws insert then use some red locktite, I doubt theyíll ever fall out. JMHO.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by herbie497 View Post
    Just been doing some more research, and something like this would be nice.
    Just to be clear, I wasn't thinking of these driveshafts exactly, as they fit the T-Maxx, I'm saying something similar.

    Quote Originally Posted by 222 View Post
    Also if youíll clean your driveshafts where the grub screws insert then use some red locktite, I doubt theyíll ever fall out.
    Is that the permanent Loctite? I'd still like to be able to take them apart for repairs.


    This could be a solution to go through the driveshaft, but it will need to be 20mm.

  8. #8
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    Yes the red is the more permanent stuff. You can remove it by heating it up. The blue loctite works well but you have to make sure you clean the parts to be done very well. 91% isopropyl alcohol works well for this. As for the metal driveshafts, I really would look into MIP or similar if it were me. Iíve yet to have issues with the stock ones, and have been using them for years now. Only thing I do is to check them occasionally and make sure that all the screws are tight. Also getting a good set of hex head drivers or Allen wrench drivers helps a bunch.

  9. #9
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    herbie497 are you talking about the universal joint or the pin that holds axle onto the diff? If it is the grub screw in the u-joint use blue loctite, it's removable.

  10. #10
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    I don't like the way the pin is held in the UJ, I'd prefer a solution to the same way the driveshaft is held onto the diff, with a pin screw all the way through. Also, the hex is so small!

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    You'll have grub screws or little cir-clips. I'll take the screws all day long given the choice.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    You'll have grub screws or little cir-clips...
    If you really want to get rid of those type of axles you could use the Tmaxx/Revo axles, but they won't be as strong.

  13. #13
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    Surely a better solution can be invented, similar to the diff output, with a pin screw?

    I plan on a big strip down and clean soon. I have some 99.9% isopropanol which I use with my 3D printer, so will try that. What would you recommend to clean and get the rust of the metal CVs? Same stuff, or WD40?

    Do you recommend any brands for the 1.5mm hex driver, and where to get them?

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Rust removal? Soak them in white vinegar. Eats all the rusty funk off them.

  15. #15
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    MIP hex drivers. That or if you are looking for t handle type, Bondus makes a good product. You can get the bondus ones off amazon or eBay. The MIPones you should be able to get off eBay. Just make sure they are quality ones and you wonít have issues with stripping heads.

  16. #16
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    I'm thinking of these pins, but threaded at one end like a grub screw

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    Was curious about the offerings from Integy, they look beefy, but they are aluminum. I'm eventually wanting to upgrade to a brushless system. I've heard the drive shafts are a week point? I'll be treating my Summit more like an E-Revo, I got my Summit used from a friend on the real cheap, I'm excited because i haven't been able to run an RC in 3 or 4 years!

  18. #18
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    The summit axles are pretty beefy and I am pretty sure they are as strong as or stronger then the erevo axles. I would stay away from the integy axles. Iíve had bad luck with majority of their aluminum parts. Their aluminum was always soft IMO, and prone to bending without much force. I havenít heard of anyone having issues with the summit axles after going brushless. Maybe Iím not looking in the right place. In the time Iíve owned my summit which has been kind of upgraded, Iím using an 18v drill motor and an older MMM ESC, Iíve never broken an axle. And Iíve owned re truck for 5+ years now. If it were me, I would upgrade to brushless, and give the summit axles a try before I spent a bunch on aftermarket axles. To each their own, but no sense in spending a bunch if it isnít truly needed. JMHO.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Summit axles are stronger than E Revo axles, but you get more working angle out of the discontinued TMaxx axles mentioned above. Smaller U joints on them. The axle stubs offered now are 6mm straight thru now, for what its worth. As I mentioned before, clean those stockers and loctite the grub screw. Throw some heat shrink tubing over the screw if losing it is a worry for you like the guys that run MIP.

  20. #20
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    Seriously. Rebuild your axles and use LOCKTITE 243 on the grub screws. It's blue, it's removable and it works great. Even when parts aren't 100% clean. Though you should get them as clean as you can. Also, use a small brush (brushes for mouth braces are perfect FYI) and isopropyl alcohol to clean out the threaded holes on the joint that the grub screws go into. If you want to really go overkill, use TWO grub screws; one on both sides of the pin. There's threads on both sides of the joint to accommodate this.
    For the period of time that I was running a Tekin RX8/T8 combo in my Summit on 4s (rolling wheelies at 20mph), I never broke a single axle. Trashed tons of differentials though. I have only broken one axle shaft ever. That's likely because it was single digits outside and I was running full chain sets on all four tires in hard pack snow. I've never had an axle come apart or fail otherwise.
    Last edited by larsen8; 07-28-2019 at 03:49 PM.
    Why can't other people share my opinions?

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