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  1. #1
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    Moving to Blue - Purple (springs) ?

    I've always ran silver springs front and blue in the rear on the 'V1' E-Revo Brushless Edition.
    Handling was ok, onroad, offroad, some not too crazy jumping.

    I swapped that setup over to the E-Revo 2.0 and handling is still ok, but for some reason (probably because the truck is a bit heavier overall) feels soft at times.

    Now thinking about changing to blue front, purple rear.
    People running that spring setup, please chime in. Good thing on the 2.0?
    I heard you need to look out for shock rod ends in the rear with purples there. True?
    I recently ripped the rear left shock rod end off clean after a hard landing (with blue springs there).
    B/R JEREMY.

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  2. #2
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    I am currently running the traxxas gtr hard-anodized PTFE coated shocks with tin shafts, blue rear springs, pink front, stock weight oil. My truck is heavier than stock. Steel driveshafts and axles all around. Aluminum center skid, body mounts, front bumper, cooling fan, knuckles, rockers, bellcrank, servo guards, metal gear servos. In the end it is quite a bit heavier than stock. So entirely a different animal than stock. I am pretty happy with the springs I’m using. If anything I may try softer springs. But I don’t do major jumps. I think it all depends how you jump, and how much added weight compared to stock your truck is carrying. I have accepted that the truck is going to bottom out at times on bigger jumps unless I make the suspension so stiff the handling suffers. I bought some really tall tires to test out jumping to see if that helps. That way I can leave the suspension alone and just swap tires/wheels for when I want to jump.

  3. #3
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Blue is about as stiff as you will likely want to go. I run purple on the rear of my big block revo and it tends to go through shock ends/pushrod ends quickly. I run silver/blue on my other 3.3 revo and they last a lot longer. I have the VDK #2 with 60wt oil (I think, could be 80wt in the big block), p2 rockers.

    On my ERBEv1, I run rc raven dual rates with vdk #2/60wt/p2 rockers. It holds up ok, but is a bit on the soft side. I go through a lot less ball ends on it though.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Blue is about as stiff as you will likely want to go. I run purple on the rear of my big block revo and it tends to go through shock ends/pushrod ends quickly. I run silver/blue on my other 3.3 revo and they last a lot longer. I have the VDK #2 with 60wt oil (I think, could be 80wt in the big block), p2 rockers.

    On my ERBEv1, I run rc raven dual rates with vdk #2/60wt/p2 rockers. It holds up ok, but is a bit on the soft side. I go through a lot less ball ends on it though.
    I am following this thread, and could someone tell me what VDK #2 stands for????

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    What oil does everyone recommend for the blue/silver set up?

  6. #6
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REVO-KN-EVIL View Post
    I am following this thread, and could someone tell me what VDK #2 stands for????

    Thanks
    Variable Dampening Kit piston #2

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    Variable Dampening Kit piston #2
    With reference to the VDK is this on the stock dampers or the GTR 5460’s ?

    Also does anyone know the difference between the GTR 5460R/A and the pricier 5460X apart from the latter being Teflon coated.

  8. #8
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Not sure about all the variations as I've only put the VDK pistons in the X versions on my revos and the slash/stampede ones that are the same spec as the X series on my stampede.

    I would assume the piston diameter is the same for both sets of shocks. They use the same caps/o-rings/bladders. Just different shafts and bodies.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  9. #9
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    So am I right in thinking the 5460 are the stock shocks and the 5460A/5460R are just the anodised versions and the 5460X is the upgraded versions?

  10. #10
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    So am I right in thinking the 5460 are the stock shocks and the 5460A/5460R are just the anodised versions and the 5460X is the upgraded versions?
    Well, the 5460A/R look like they also have TiNi coated shafts. I'm guessing they are missing the teflon coating the X's have on the body itself, which I'm assuming is internal to help resist drag when the piston touches the side of the shock body.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Well, the 5460A/R look like they also have TiNi coated shafts. I'm guessing they are missing the teflon coating the X's have on the body itself, which I'm assuming is internal to help resist drag when the piston touches the side of the shock body.
    Paying for some Teflon then haha

    I picked up a set anyway will be running on 60wt and pink rear silver front spring to start with.

  12. #12
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC11 View Post
    Paying for some Teflon then haha

    I picked up a set anyway will be running on 60wt and pink rear silver front spring to start with.
    Used to be able to get full sets for the revo pretty cheap from kit breakers. That's how I got the ones in all 3 of my revos and the set on my eJato. My wife paid retail for the ones for the stampede to get me for Christmas.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  13. #13
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    I also think the E Revo is sagging in the rear. I moved the link and lifted the rear a bit. A small improvement achieved. ��

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gurba View Post
    I also think the E Revo is sagging in the rear. I moved the link and lifted the rear a bit. A small improvement achieved. ��
    Good idea also!

    Would lowering or raising the rear via push rod hole adjustment also help with preventing shock rod rip out?
    As in: do you need to lower or raise the rear end?
    B/R JEREMY.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjon View Post
    Good idea also!

    Would lowering or raising the rear via push rod hole adjustment also help with preventing shock rod rip out?
    As in: do you need to lower or raise the rear end?
    I saw someone on youtube say that moving the back/bottom rod ends out one spot helped him prevent rod issues. I did that as soon as I bought my car and still managed to snap my first rod the other day when I smacked a playground jungle gym pole on 4s head on in the bumper. It stopped so quick and brought the rear end up so fast the rod snapped right where the bottom outer rod end (that I had repositioned lower) met the rod.

    80mm limiting straps on the way and I am thinking about going with the upgraded aluminum rods possibly if the straps don't help. I also saw a YT video from a guy saying that all he had to do was buy a e-revo shock rebuild kit and add an extra set of bump stops inside for the other direction to limit travel a bit more.

  16. #16
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    Ok, well, since I managed to rip out the rear left shock rod end twice already (after some abusive jumping), and those suspension limiting straps (e.g. the HR ones) are hard to come by here, I thought I would give this a good try:


    Big zip tie fastened in a just before fully unloaded shock position.
    Eager to see if the shock rod end popping days are over like this.
    B/R JEREMY.

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  17. #17
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    Nice idea, hope it works. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice and sunny here, limiting straps don't arrive until the next day when rainy...., I hope my rods survive another day.

    I also get my wireless module Wed so I can dial down the braking and stop these silly front flips and endos when braking on sticky surfaces. I prefer 70/30 and the braking on the revo is way too aggressive for me.

    Once that is all dialed in I think it is time for me to start looking at heavier springs, heavier oil and those double bump stops in the shocks. I am also eyeballing an outcast as my next 1/8th scale truck. I like that they come with a lot of aluminum bits that the traxxas vehicles seem to need.

    oh wait: u got the optional alum rods/link and they didn't stop the breaking of the ends/rods/links?

    edit twice: if you had some calipers you could probably measure the distance to get it in the 80 - 100 range the HR straps do for each corner before they get folded?? I would prolly try and do that and do one per corner instead of one for both rear corners in case things go a bit sideways and one corner is sprung while the other is unsprung. You could use calipers or a tape to measure out 80mm and sharpy the zip tie so you know how tight to zip it down?
    Last edited by fozzy71; 05-13-2019 at 09:35 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjon View Post
    Ok, well, since I managed to rip out the rear left shock rod end twice already (after some abusive jumping), and those suspension limiting straps (e.g. the HR ones) are hard to come by here, I thought I would give this a good try:


    Big zip tie fastened in a just before fully unloaded shock position.
    Eager to see if the shock rod end popping days are over like this.
    Any Pics ?
    E-Revo VXL 2.0
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fozzy71 View Post
    Nice idea, hope it works. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice and sunny here, limiting straps don't arrive until the next day when rainy...., I hope my rods survive another day.

    I also get my wireless module Wed so I can dial down the braking and stop these silly front flips and endos when braking on sticky surfaces. I prefer 70/30 and the braking on the revo is way too aggressive for me.

    Once that is all dialed in I think it is time for me to start looking at heavier springs, heavier oil and those double bump stops in the shocks. I am also eyeballing an outcast as my next 1/8th scale truck. I like that they come with a lot of aluminum bits that the traxxas vehicles seem to need.

    oh wait: u got the optional alum rods/link and they didn't stop the breaking of the ends/rods/links?

    edit twice: if you had some calipers you could probably measure the distance to get it in the 80 - 100 range the HR straps do for each corner before they get folded?? I would prolly try and do that and do one per corner instead of one for both rear corners in case things go a bit sideways and one corner is sprung while the other is unsprung. You could use calipers or a tape to measure out 80mm and sharpy the zip tie so you know how tight to zip it down?
    The aluminum rods and links add some good bling, especially in a blue and green mix to match the blue/green body, they are beefy and hard, didn't bend or break yet, and didn't rip out of their rod ends - yet (big knock on wood).

    Right now it's indeed one zip tie holding/limiting both cantilevers. I guess it's indeed better to have one per corner like you say. Still some tinkering to do, then...
    B/R JEREMY.

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