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  1. #1
    RC poster mrsr71's Avatar
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    Question Arctic Silver - HOW MUCH??

    Iím putting a heat sink on my new Rustler VXL 4X4. Someone recommend to bond it with arctic silver.

    Question: how much shall I use? Do I put a thin coat on the whole thing before mounting it to the motor?

    All suggestions welcomed & thanks for your help...

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    That's a first...and, honestly, I can't say whether I'd recommend it, or recommend avoiding that suggestion. I've been custom-building computers for over 25 years, and Arctic Silver had been one of the best thermal pastes I've used...but, it's designed for attaching to computer CPUs, not RC motors.

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  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    I would look into single side adhesive thermal transfer tape that is popular with electronics builders. If I recall correctly those are typically rated at the minimum around 240f sustained. Then take a temp gun and see if it makes a difference.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    I would look into single side adhesive thermal transfer tape that is popular with electronics builders. If I recall correctly those are typically rated at the minimum around 240f sustained. Then take a temp gun and see if it makes a difference.
    That seems the smarter move, especially compared to using computer thermal paste. Then again, maybe I could take several 4S packs, daisy-chain them, and see if they'll power my Core-i7/GTX1080 gaming computer.
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  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Then again, maybe I could take several 4S packs, daisy-chain them, and see if they'll power my Core-i7/GTX1080 gaming computer.
    Bonus points if you can McGuiver a pass through charging set up so a charger can kick in when the LiPos need to be charged, cut off the lipos from being drawn from, and use the charger to supply the juice when the battery is charging.

    I would suggest trying this in a concrete lined room with fire retardant foam sprayers built in.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Bonus points if you can McGuiver a pass through charging set up so a charger can kick in when the LiPos need to be charged, cut off the lipos from being drawn from, and use the charger to supply the juice when the battery is charging.

    I would suggest trying this in a concrete lined room with fire retardant foam sprayers built in.
    Not even sure the concrete lining would be enough. Maybe an underground bunker...LOL
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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrsr71 View Post
    I’m putting a heat sink on my new Rustler VXL 4X4. Someone recommend to bond it with arctic silver.

    Question: how much shall I use? Do I put a thin coat on the whole thing before mounting it to the motor?

    All suggestions welcomed & thanks for your help...
    When I bond my heatsinks to my motors, I use blue Loctite. It does an excellent job of wicking the heat from the motor to the heatsink.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
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    Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad 40x40mm - just cut to size. Works really well, and doesn't leave a mess. Thermal specs are supperior to the majority of thermal paste on the market. The best paste will only keep it cooler by 1 or 2 degree Celsius; not very much of a difference.

    IMHO, keep the grease for overclocking computers. The thermal pad stuff works great.

    Your biggest problem beyond thermal conductivity between the motor and heat-sink is throwing the heat off the heat-sink with enough airflow. Though I have yet to hit thermal shutdown yet, and that passively cooled heat-sink I installed is blistering hot to touch. Takes a few minutes to cool down.

    If you do hit thermal shutdown, you'll want a fan blowing over the heat-sink. Otherwise, go all out and cut out the windshield of the body for front-to-back airflow when racing. Problem is, it restricts you to pavement racing where it's not a dirty/muddy environment. And secondly, it permanently butchers the body.

    Good luck.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StDragon View Post
    Otherwise, go all out and cut out the windshield of the body for front-to-back airflow when racing. Problem is, it restricts you to pavement racing where it's not a dirty/muddy environment. And secondly, it permanently butchers the body.
    Don't forget that certain classes restrict body modifications, including, but not limited to, cutting out part (or all) of the windshield. Additionally, even if the sanctioning body roles don't rule that out, local club rules. Before "butchering" your vehicle's body, it's best to check with your track.

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