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  1. #1
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Hobbystar 56112 950kv

    After researching these motors and trying to understand what max amp ratings and all the other specs mean I'm not sure this is the right motor for me. I have a hobbywing max 5 which is rated at 200 amps, this motors max amp rating is 210. From what I read this is not a good idea. Anyone have any experience running a combo where the motor exceeds the ESCs amp rating?

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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You want to have an ESC that supplies 20% more current than the rating of your motor. In your case with your 200 amp rated ESC, you want a 160 amp rated motor. If you have a 210 rated motor, you want a 250 amp rated ESC.

    To better relate to your question think about this. You're sitting down for dinner, and you're starving to death. What's better; your mom or wife putting down a steak, or your mom or wife putting down a slice of roast beast? Now think about this. You ate a couple of hamburgers (with your buddies) a couple of hours before you came home for dinner. All your wife or mom has for supper is a slice of roast beast. Not a big deal, right?

    Think of yourself as the motor, your wife or mom as the ESC, and the steak or roast beast as amps. It's always better for you to have a steak (when you're really hungry) and a slice of roast beast (when you're not), then only being able to have a slice of roast beast when what you're really dying for is a thick and juicy, mouth watering steak.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-20-2019 at 04:26 AM.
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  3. #3
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    I know several members that run the Max5 with TP motors in the 3-400 amp range. There only complaint is they break drivetrain parts. The esc seems to do very well. I have a Max5 and a leopard 5898 rated at 200 amps. It works perfectly, no heat issues or gearing issues. That being said itís better to have more of a well to draw from, which o think is RGís point.

  4. #4
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, grip I had followed your build thread and I knew you were running that 5898 that's rated at 200. I was hoping you'd reply. Regular guy thank you as well. I will think about it some more. Half the problem too is there just isn't alot of motor availability right now. Lots of options are out of stock in the US. Thanks again guys.

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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    That being said it’s better to have more of a well to draw from, which I think is RG’s point.
    That was my point, but I just wanted to be different and tell a different story. (lol) Also, there are all kinds of things that a person can do to make an under rated ESC or motor work together, but I wanted to suggest the least complicated and safest way of getting the job done. Like you, I run a 5898 motor too, and it's been a very good motor with my setup.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-20-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    That was my point, but I just wanted to be different and tell a different story. (lol) Also, there are all kinds of things that a person can do to make an under rated ESC or motor work together, but I wanted to suggest the least complicated and safest way of getting the job done. Like you, I run a 5898 motor too, and it's been a very good motor with my setup.
    Your analogy was great and well taken. I appreciate your perspective.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Half the problem too is there just isn't alot of motor availability right now. Lots of options are out of stock in the US.

    I thought that it was just my imagination; but you are right. Motors I bought a year ago, are either discontinued, back-ordered or my favorite "We had a problem with our supplier."

    Never would I have imagined that it is easier to buy C-4 explosives and dynamite than it is to buy a freaking electric motor for an RC vehicle. I mean come on, I thought we were all on the cutting edge of using electric over Nitro and now all of the sudden, it is like electric RC Motors are on some "Black List" like it is an outlawed item.

    What is going on here?
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    I have this same motor with max5 esc on my Baja 5b and love it,it’s a powerful motor,it flips on its back my Baja 5b at will even on 1/4 throttle for 3 years already and haven’t had any heat or esc issues

    I even tested this motor on my xmaxx just a couple days ago when my Leopard 5892 1340kv crap out.
    Also ran it with BL5 esc (Max5) also no heat issues or esc issues
    And I have x maxx geared 30P/30S 1.5M

    I ordered another motor from primal rc S56113 960kv 8 pole for my xmaxx
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    I have this same motor with max5 esc on my Baja 5b and love it,itís a powerful motor,it flips on its back my Baja 5b at will even on 1/4 throttle for 3 years already and havenít had any heat or esc issues

    I even tested this motor on my xmaxx just a couple days ago when my Leopard 5892 1340kv crap out.
    Also ran it with BL5 esc (Max5) also no heat issues or esc issues
    And I have x maxx geared 30P/30S 1.5M

    I ordered another motor from primal rc S56113 960kv 8 pole for my xmaxx
    You must have a Super Baja Ray, cause I have one and that's what's in it. I have to say, it was refreshing to get a RTR (straight from the factory) with an 8s system, but rated by the factory for 6s use. Also, I miss-spoke above...sorry. In my Xmaxx I have the Leopard 5892 1340kv motor with a Castle XLX-X, and that's what has worked out very well for me.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I thought that it was just my imagination; but you are right. Motors I bought a year ago, are either discontinued, back-ordered or my favorite "We had a problem with our supplier."

    Never would I have imagined that it is easier to buy C-4 explosives and dynamite than it is to buy a freaking electric motor for an RC vehicle. I mean come on, I thought we were all on the cutting edge of using electric over Nitro and now all of the sudden, it is like electric RC Motors are on some "Black List" like it is an outlawed item.

    What is going on here?
    I just now looked on Amazon, and they have both Leopard 5892 1340kv and Leopard 5898 1100kv motors. Other places you can get Leopard motors are from eBay and Horizon. Use Horizon, though, as a last resort, because they are moderately more expensive.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I just now looked on Amazon, and they have both Leopard 5892 1340kv and Leopard 5898 1100kv motors. Other places you can get Leopard motors are from eBay and Horizon. Use Horizon, though, as a last resort, because they are moderately more expensive.
    Yes, I actually looked around a bit and it is possible to find the hard to find motors; however, prices are a little out of hand considering the quality of motors I use to get at a more reasonable price. I understand that this hobby is not cheap and it is getting more expensive every year because of tariffs placed on certain materials; but that should spark more U.S. based companies to pop up...............I'm waiting patiently for more U.S. based options for our RC parts......especially the electronics.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    You must have a Super Baja Ray, cause I have one and that's what's in it. I have to say, it was refreshing to get a RTR (straight from the factory) with an 8s system, but rated by the factory for 6s use. Also, I miss-spoke above...sorry. In my Xmaxx I have the Leopard 5892 1340kv motor with a Castle XLX-X, and that's what has worked out very well for me.
    No I have the Rovan Baja 5b buggy I converted it from gas to electric.
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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    What I do is shop when I really don't need something. If I see a really good deal I get it and keep it for the future as a spare, and until needed, I have it available for trouble shooting. As an example, I (not to long ago) got a Max 5, 200 amp ESC for 110 bucks shipped. Something else that might help you out, and that is shop in the winter months. For some reason RC electronics are cheaper.
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  14. #14
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I signed up for email notifications on rcjuice, they got a bunch of motors back in stock. I ended up going with a 780kv 56112 hobbystar, it's rated at 180 amps, so not quite 20%, but better. I've had a heat issue with every rc I've ever had. I run around 2000kv in all my tenth scales, 1500 to 1700 kv in my 8th scales, all to avoid heat issues. I think this was the right choice. We will see.

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Something you may want to look into....I read something the other day that the Max 5 and the Fuse 160 were the same exact ESC. The Max 5 is rated at 200 amps, and the Fuse 160 is rated at 160 amps. Be careful, because one of these two companies is telling a big fat fib.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 04-23-2019 at 01:55 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Something you may want to look into....I read something the other day that the Max 5 and the Fuse 160 were the same exact ESC. The Max 5 is rated at 200 amps, and the Fuse 160 is rated at 160 amps. Be careful, because one of these two companies is telling a big fat fib.
    I am not so sure Castle does not fib also. The amperage claims from castle data logs seem to be imaginary numbers. I ran the XLX software setting limited to 350amps and the Max5 (factory spec 200a) and they were within 1% results of each other in a speed run with the XMaxx.

    Problem is all the amperage testing tools seem to be limited around 150a without spending a massive amount of money on testing equipment, so we may never know the truth.

    -Liberty
    Last edited by LibertyMKiii; 04-23-2019 at 02:59 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LibertyMKiii View Post
    I am not so sure Castle does not fib also. The amperage claims from castle data logs seem to be imaginary numbers. I ran the XLX software setting limited to 350amps and the Max5 (factory spec 200a) and they were within 1% results of each other in a speed run with the XMaxx.

    Problem is all the amperage testing tools seem to be limited around 150a without spending a massive amount of money on testing equipment, so we may never know the truth.

    -Liberty
    So, what does Castle say about the working amps of their XLX, and what is it in real life? I was told 140 amps.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Something you may want to look into....I read something the other day that the Max 5 and the Fuse 160 were the same exact ESC. The Max 5 is rated at 200 amps, and the Fuse 160 is rated at 160 amps. Be careful, because one of these two companies is telling a big fat fib.
    The Fuze youíre referring to is the Max 6 equivalent(160 amps). The Max5 is a 200 constant esc and 1600 burst. The XLX although not common knowledge is a 160amp esc, castle is known for underrating their gear and making a nice product.

  19. #19
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    All good information guys. I'm going to try and not worry about it too much. I think alot of people push both the castle and the hobbywing to the max. I won't be nearing any of that right away so I should be fine. I'm going to run upgraded fans and good batteries and everything will be ok. I've seen people running leopards and castle 2028s at 1 to 1 with success on the max 5 and the XLX, I won't be running anything close to that. Thank you everyone for your knowledge and input. If I manage to burn up a max 5 I'll explore MGM or Alien or one of those other 12s ESCs. Hopefully it doesn't get to that point, I don't think it will.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    The Fuze you’re referring to is the Max 6 equivalent(160 amps). The Max5 is a 200 constant esc and 1600 burst. The XLX although not common knowledge is a 160amp esc, castle is known for underrating their gear and making a nice product.

    Hey Grip, I really enjoyed reading your "Grips Maxx Build" thread. Exquisite work if I do say so myself.

    I posted my questions here so as to not clutter up your thread---No offense nickruger, it's just that your thread doesn't have any pictures and since we were all discussing this, I thought I would inject these questions.

    If I'm not mistaken, you are running 205 amp batteries, a 200 amp ESC and a 200 amp motor correct Grip? Wouldn't the batteries amps be combined in a series connection to give you 410 amps to draw from?

    Am I correct in assuming that the closer you can get all three components to each other, the less heat issues you will have outside of the obvious gearing issues?

    Is there a formula to calculate what a motors continuous amp rating is using their given Kv ratings?
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-23-2019 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Correction
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Hey Grip, I really enjoyed reading your "Grips Maxx Build" thread. Exquisite work if I do say so myself.

    I posted my questions here so as to not clutter up your thread---No offense nickruger, it's just that your thread doesn't have any pictures and since we were all discussing this, I thought I would inject these questions.

    If I'm not mistaken, you are running 205 amp batteries, a 200 amp ESC and a 200 amp motor correct Grip? Wouldn't the batteries amps be combined in a series connection to give you 410 amps to draw from?

    Am I correct in assuming that the closer you can get all three components to each other, the less heat issues you will have outside of the obvious gearing issues?

    Is there a formula to calculate what a motors continuous amp rating is using their given Kv ratings?
    Yes, and your usĒ to draw fromĒ is also perfect. The motor I use is capable of drawing Some serious amps. If l leave the punch control too high, and am too heavy on the throttle, the throttle cuts out and the esc resets. Since dropping the punch control it hasnít happened once. Having extra capacity doesnít create heat issues, but as I said above it does create its own set of circumstances. As far as the last question, it depends on the motor wind really to figure out nominal current draw. Since ours is a moving target, itís pretty hard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Yes, and your us” to draw from” is also perfect. The motor I use is capable of drawing Some serious amps. If l leave the punch control too high, and am too heavy on the throttle, the throttle cuts out and the esc resets. Since dropping the punch control it hasn’t happened once. Having extra capacity doesn’t create heat issues, but as I said above it does create its own set of circumstances. As far as the last question, it depends on the motor wind really to figure out nominal current draw. Since ours is a moving target, it’s pretty hard.

    I appreciate the feedback. Did Leopard discontinue the 1100 Kv motor you are using? I looked directly on the Leopard site and they don't have any of the 5898 cans available in any Kv rating. I wanted to get it from there because $100 is a really good price for 5898 motor cans:

    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-24-2019 at 06:10 AM.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Hey Grip, I really enjoyed reading your "Grips Maxx Build" thread. Exquisite work if I do say so myself.

    I posted my questions here so as to not clutter up your thread---No offense nickruger, it's just that your thread doesn't have any pictures and since we were all discussing this, I thought I would inject these questions.

    If I'm not mistaken, you are running 205 amp batteries, a 200 amp ESC and a 200 amp motor correct Grip? Wouldn't the batteries amps be combined in a series connection to give you 410 amps to draw from?

    Am I correct in assuming that the closer you can get all three components to each other, the less heat issues you will have outside of the obvious gearing issues?

    Is there a formula to calculate what a motors continuous amp rating is using their given Kv ratings?
    No offense taken. I can take some pictures. What would you like to see? Also as far as the leopard 5898, rcjuice has them in stock. The bad news, they are 170$.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 04-24-2019 at 06:10 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    No offense taken. I can take some pictures. What would you like to see?

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    Glad to hear.

    No, I was just trying to decide on a motor myself because I'm going to build from scratch. The problem is finding a motor can with a 5mm diameter shaft instead of 8mm in the 5898 can size. I'm going to have to rethink whether or not I'm going to use a Mod 1 or 1.5 setup.

    I would like to see pictures but am content with the current discussion you started.

    I'm a true born Buckeye (Ohio) man myself - Born and raised in Youngstown.

    I saw your edit and yes I saw those - was just hoping that I could get it directly from Leopard.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-24-2019 at 06:29 AM. Reason: I'm a Buckeye!
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  25. #25
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Glad to hear.

    No, I was just trying to decide on a motor myself because I'm going to build from scratch. The problem is finding a motor can with a 5mm diameter shaft instead of 8mm in the 5898 can size. I'm going to have to rethink whether or not I'm going to use a Mod 1 or 1.5 setup.

    I would like to see pictures but am content with the current discussion you started.

    I'm a true born Buckeye man myself - Born and raised in Youngstown.
    It is hard to decide. I've actually only ran one set of batteries through with the max 5 and stock motor. I just have the upgrade bug. There are so many options out there. I wish I could just keep stuff stock. I was considering the hobbywing 58113 since its sold in a max 5 combo, I would assume it's a perfect match. And yes gearing options are limited and pricey.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    It is hard to decide. I've actually only ran one set of batteries through with the max 5 and stock motor. I just have the upgrade bug. There are so many options out there. I wish I could just keep stuff stock. I was considering the hobbywing 58113 since its sold in a max 5 combo, I would assume it's a perfect match. And yes gearing options are limited and pricey.

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    You meant the 56113 800Kv motor, because I didn't see a 58113 option unless you could post a link. That is another thing I am unsure of at this point as well, because the max 5 is larger than the direct drop in max 6. It is difficult to anticipate what will work best because I had a X-Maxx 6S version that I ended up selling because they pulled that 8S upgrade package bull crap on us and it would have been better just to start from scratch in the first place like Grip did.

    I'm starting to lean towards the stock motor because of the shaft diameter and more availability of gearing options which I think I would just stay in a stock ratio anyhow so this doesn't get too complicated.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    You meant the 56113 800Kv motor, because I didn't see a 58113 option unless you could post a link. That is another thing I am unsure of at this point as well, because the max 5 is larger than the direct drop in max 6. It is difficult to anticipate what will work best because I had a X-Maxx 6S version that I ended up selling because they pulled that 8S upgrade package bull crap on us and it would have been better just to start from scratch in the first place like Grip did.

    I'm starting to lean towards the stock motor because of the shaft diameter and more availability of gearing options which I think I would just stay in a stock ratio anyhow so this doesn't get too complicated.
    58113 is correct but the 1050kv is hard to find it’s almost out of stock anywhere
    https://www.rcjuice.com/leopard-5811...1-5-scale.html
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    You meant the 56113 800Kv motor, because I didn't see a 58113 option unless you could post a link. That is another thing I am unsure of at this point as well, because the max 5 is larger than the direct drop in max 6. It is difficult to anticipate what will work best because I had a X-Maxx 6S version that I ended up selling because they pulled that 8S upgrade package bull crap on us and it would have been better just to start from scratch in the first place like Grip did.

    I'm starting to lean towards the stock motor because of the shaft diameter and more availability of gearing options which I think I would just stay in a stock ratio anyhow so this doesn't get too complicated.
    You are correct, the hobbywing is a 56113.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    58113 is correct but the 1050kv is hard to find it’s almost out of stock anywhere
    https://www.rcjuice.com/leopard-5811...1-5-scale.html
    That is a 113mm long can. Now I'm wondering how long of a motor canister can fit in the X-Maxx before you run into fitment issues. Another thing, I couldn't make it out from the specs diagram, I'm assuming that is a 8mm diameter shaft. That would be Mod 1.5 gears correct?
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is a 113mm long can. Now I'm wondering how long of a motor canister can fit in the X-Maxx before you run into fitment issues. Another thing, I couldn't make it out from the specs diagram, I'm assuming that is a 8mm diameter shaft. That would be Mod 1.5 gears correct?
    I think the way I have my max 5 mounted it would fit. I ordered 25/35 mod 1.5 gears. It is an 8mm shaft.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I think the way I have my max 5 mounted it would fit. I ordered 25/35 mod 1.5 gears. It is an 8mm shaft.

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    Hey, where did you order the 1.5 gears from and do they offer them as matched sets?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Hey, where did you order the 1.5 gears from and do they offer them as matched sets?
    B and M racing on Facebook. They only sell them as a matched set as far as I know. They are 80$ shipped. They have pretty much any combo you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is a 113mm long can. Now I'm wondering how long of a motor canister can fit in the X-Maxx before you run into fitment issues. Another thing, I couldn't make it out from the specs diagram, I'm assuming that is a 8mm diameter shaft. That would be Mod 1.5 gears correct?
    It’ll fit fine,I have the same size motor from primal Rc 960kv 8 poles
    Also it doesn’t have to be 1.5M gears you can use 1M gears as long as it has a 8mm bore.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    Itíll fit fine,I have the same size motor from primal Rc 960kv 8 poles
    Also it doesnít have to be 1.5M gears you can use 1M gears as long as it has a 8mm bore.
    Maybe I'm not looking for them the right way. Every Mod 1 gear I come across, has only a 5mm bore option. I thought that was the thing with Mod 1.5 gears because they only come in a 6, 8 or 10 mm bore size and Mod 1's only come in the 5mm bore size.

    Could you please share a link that has Mod 1 gears with an 8mm bore.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Maybe I'm not looking for them the right way. Every Mod 1 gear I come across, has only a 5mm bore option. I thought that was the thing with Mod 1.5 gears because they only come in a 6, 8 or 10 mm bore size and Mod 1's only come in the 5mm bore size.

    Could you please share a link that has Mod 1 gears with an 8mm bore.
    Here you go,but they almost out of stock on some gears,better to call them if u wanna order the out stock ones
    Just scroll down.

    http://www.fastlanercs.com/pinions---spools.html

    Or just go eBay and type on search 8mm mod 1 pinion gear

    I ordered these this morning https://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-8mm-24-2...item363f7fa710

    I was running 1.5M 30P/30S set but I’m getting motor heat issue,but that was when I was running with no fans,I just got my dual fans will have to try with it this weekend to see if helps the heat issues.
    Last edited by PATS4LIFE; 04-24-2019 at 02:45 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    Here you go,but they almost out of stock on some gears,better to call them if u wanna order the out stock ones
    Just scroll down.

    http://www.fastlanercs.com/pinions---spools.html

    Or just go eBay and type on search 8mm mod 1 pinion gear
    I looked everywhere but that one. Man you guys know where to find the neat stuff. Much appreciated PATS4LIFE!

    I saw your edit - Thanks again for sharing the links!
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-24-2019 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Saw the edit.
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  37. #37
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Here is my current setup. I have 33mm of space between my ESC plate and motor. I haven't mocked up the mount I have, still waiting on my motor and gears to arrive, but in theory I should still have 5mm of space between the new motor and ESC mount.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Here is my current setup. I have 33mm of space between my ESC plate and motor. I haven't mocked up the mount I have, still waiting on my motor and gears to arrive, but in theory I should still have 5mm of space between the new motor and ESC mount.

    I might be missing it, but where is your receiver box located?
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  39. #39
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I might be missing it, but where is your receiver box located?
    Underneath the rear of the ESC.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Underneath the rear of the ESC.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    O.K. - Now you got me interested because of the way you did it. You have the ESC mounted up just high enough to clear the box so you didn't have to modify the chassis. I'm gonna have to steal that idea. I especially like it because you didn't mount the ESC to the rails so a crash won't destroy your caps on the ESC.

    Also, because I'm interested in how you did that, when you go to install your new components, could you snap a few shots of your ESC mount setup?
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 04-24-2019 at 08:41 PM.
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